1998 OPEL FRONTERA suspension

DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT) 4A1–2
Front Drive Axle
Diagnosis
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil Leak At Front AxleWorn or defective oil seal.Replace the oil seal.
Front axle housing cracked.Repair or replace.
Oil Leak At Pinion ShaftToo much gear oil.Correct the oil level.
Oil seal worn or defective.Replace the oil seal.
Pinion flange loose or damaged.Tighten or replace.
Noises In Front Axle Drive Shaft
JointBroken or worn drive shaft joints and
bellows (BJ and DOJ).Replace the drive shaft joints and
bellows.
“Clank” When Accelerating From
“Coast”Loose drive shaft joint to output shaft
bolts.Tighten.
Damaged inner drive shaft joint.Replace.
Shudder or Vibration During
Acceleration
Excessive drive shaft joint angle.Repair.
AccelerationWorn or damaged drive shaft joints.Replace.
Sticking spider assembly (inner drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Sticking joint assembly (outer drive
shaft joint).Lubricate or replace.
Vibration At Highway SpeedsOut of balance or out of round tires.Balance or replace.
Front end out of alignment.Align.
Noises in Front AxleInsufficient gear oil.Replenish the gear oil.
Wrong or poor grade gear oil.Replace the gear oil.
Drive pinion to ring gear backlash
incorrect.Adjust the backlash.
Worn or chipped ring gear, pinion
gear or side gear.Replace the ring gear, pinion gear or
side gear.
Pinion shaft bearing worn.Replace the pinion shaft bearing.
Wheel bearing worn.Replace the wheel bearing.
Differential bearing loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Wanders and PullsWheel bearing preload too tight.Adjust the wheel bearing preload.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Adjust or replace the steering gear.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Adjust the inflation or replace.
Front or rear suspension parts loose
or broken.Tighten or replace.
Front Wheel ShimmyWheel bearing worn or improperly
adjusted.Adjust or replace.
Incorrect front alignment.Adjust the front alignment.
Worn ball joint or bush.Replace the ball joint or bush.
Steering linkage loose or worn.Tighten or replace.
Steering gear out of adjustment.Tighten or replace.
Tire worn or improperly inflated.Replace or adjust the inflation.
Shock absorber worn.Replace the shock absorber.

DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT) 4A1–6
3. Remove the drain bolt to drain differential oil.
NOTE:
a. During the work, be sure that the diff case is
supported by the jack.
412RS003
b. Remove the brake caliper fixing bolt and hang the
caliper. Refer to Front Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
in Brake section.
c. Remove the antilock brake system speed sensor (if
equipped). Refer to Front Wheel Speed Sensor in
Brakes section.
4. Remove the hub assembly (Disc, back plate and
knuckle), refer to Front Hub and Disc in this section.
5. Disconnect the knuckle and the suspension arm.
Refer to Suspension section.
6. Remove steering link and arm assembly, refer to
Steering Linkage in Steering section.
7. Remove suspension crossmember.
8. Remove propeller shaft, refer to Front Propeller Shaft
in this section.
9. Remove protector (Shift on the fly model).
10. Remove the hose clip.
11. Disconnect breather hose from front drive axle tube.
(and disconnect housing : Shift on the fly model).
12. Disconnect vacuum hose from actuator (Shift on the
fly model).13. Disconnect shift switch connector (Shift on the fly
model).
412RS031
14. Remove VSV assembly (1) (Shift on the fly model).
NOTE: Be sure not to remove hose and connector from
VSV asm.
412RW002

DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT) 4A1–8
5. Tighten the mounting bolt and nut to the specified
torque.
Torque: 152 Nꞏm (15.5kgꞏm/112 lb ft)
412RW005
Legend
(1) Frame
(2) Spacer
(3) Washer
(4) Bolt
(5) Nut
6. Install VSV assembly and tighten nuts to specified
torque (Shift on the fly model).
Torque: 8 Nꞏm (0.8kgꞏm/69 lb in)
7. Install the shift switch connector (Shift on the fly
model).
NOTE: Be careful not to permit the entry of dust into the
connector.
8. Install the actuator side of vacuum hose (Shift on the
fly model).
NOTE: Be careful not to permit the entry of dust into the
hose.
9. Connect breather hose and install the hose clip.
10. Install protector and tighten bolts to specified torque
(Shift on the fly model).
Torque: 26 Nꞏm (2.7kgꞏm/20 lb ft)
11. Install propeller shaft, refer to Front Propeller Shaft in
this section.
12. Install suspension crossmember.
13. Steering link and arm assembly, refer to Steering
Linkage in Steering section.
14. Install hub assembly (Disc, back plate and knuckle),
refer to Front Hub and Disc in this section.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2A–4
DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
Axle Housing
Axle Housing and Associated Parts
420RW022
Legend
(1) Coil Spring and Insulator
(2) Axle Housing Assembly
(3) ABS Speed Sensor and Harness(if equipped)
(4) Nut
(5) Parking Brake Cable
(6) Bolt and Nut
(7) Antilock Brake System (ABS) Connector and
Bracket (if equipped)
(8) Bolt and Nut(9) Nut
(10) Differential Assembly
(11) Axle Shaft Assembly
(12) Brake Disc
(13) Brake Pipe
(14) Brake Caliper
(15) Nut
(16) Breather Hose
(17) Flare Nut
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety
stands.
The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
2. Drain brake fluid. Refer to Hydraulic Brakes in Brake
section.
3. Remove rear wheels and tires. Refer to Wheel in
Suspension section.4. Remove propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller
Shaft in this section.
5. Drain the rear axle oil into a proper container.
6. Remove parking brake cable, release the connection
between the cable fixing clip equalizer. Refer to
Parking Brakes in Brake section.
7. Move the clip aside and pull out the breather hose.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–5
8. Disconnect the ABS connectors (1) and remove the
brackets (2) attached to the frame and center link
(ABS model only).
350RS001
9. Loosen the brake tube flare nut, remove the clip and
take out the brake tube.
10. Remove the shock absorber fixing nut from the axle
housing.
11. Remove the stabilizer linkage mounting nut from the
axle housing.
12. Remove the lateral rod fixing nut from the axle
housing.
13. Remove the center link mounting bolt and nut from
the axle housing.
14. Remove the trailing link fixing bolt and nut from the
axle housing.
15. Jack down and remove the coil spring and insulator.
16. Axle housing assembly can be separated from the
vehicle on completion of steps 1 – 11.
17. Remove the brake caliper fixing bolt (3), loosen the
flare nut (1), release the clip (2) and take out the brake
caliper together with the flexible hose.
306RS001
18. Remove brake disc.
19. Remove antilock brake system speed sensor fixing
bolt and the clip and bracket on the axle housing
(ABS model only).
20. Remove the brake pipe clip and fixing bolt on the axle
housing and take out the brake pipe.
21. Remove the bearing holder fixing nut and take out the
axle shaft assembly, be sure not to damage the oil
seal by the spline of the shaft, Refer to Axle Shaft in
this section.
22. Remove differential assembly, refer to Differential
Assembly in this section.
Oil Seal Replacement
Remove the oil seal, carefully not to damage the housing,
and mount new oil seal using oil seal installer
5–8840–2294–0.
420RW028
Installation
1. Install differential assembly, refer to Differential
Assembly in this section.
2. Install axle shaft assembly then tighten the bearing
holder mounting nut to the specified torque. Be sure
not to damage the oil seal by the spline of the shaft.
Torque: 74Nꞏm (7.5kgꞏm/54lb ft)
3. Install brake pipe.
4. Connect antilock brake system (ABS) speed sensor
and harness, refer to 4–Wheel Anti–Lock Brake
System (ABS) in Brake section (ABS model only).
5. Install brake disc.
6. Install brake caliper. Refer to Disk Brakes in Brake
section.
7. Install axle housing assembly.
8. Install coil spring and insulator.
9. Install the trailing link fixing bolt and nut to the axle
housing. For the procedures in items 9–13, refer to
Suspension section.
10. Install the center link bolt and nut to the axle housing.

4A2B–4DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–5
Axle Housing
Axle Housing and Associated Parts
420RY00007
Legend
(1) Coil Spring and Insulator
(2) Axle Housing Assembly
(3) ABS Speed Sensor and Harness (if so
equipped)
(4) Nut
(5) Parking Brake Cable
(6) Bolt and Nut
(7) Antilock Brake System (ABS) Connector and
Bracket (if so equipped)(8) Bolt and Nut
(9) Nut
(10) Differential Assembly
(11) Axle Shaft Assembly
(12) Brake Disc
(13) Brake Pipe
(14) Brake Caliper
(15) Nut
(16) Breather Hose
(17) Flare Nut
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety
stands.
The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
2. Drain brake fluid. Refer to Hydraulic Brakes in Brakes
section.
3. Remove rear wheels and tires. Refer to Wheel in
Suspension section.4. Remove propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller
Shaft in this section.
5. Drain the rear axle oil into a proper container.
6. Remove parking brake cable, release the connection
between the cable fixing clip equalizer. Refer to
Parking Brakes in Brakes section.
7. Move the clip aside and pull out the breather hose.