1998 OPEL FRONTERA change wheel

5A–11 BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM
Data List
DisplayContentOK/NG Criteria for Data
Battery VoltageVo l t a g eBetween 10-16.9V
Brake Light SwitchOpen/CloseOpen(0V) when pedal is released
Closed(12V) when pedal is depressed.
Front Left Wheel Speed
Front Right Wheel Speed
Rear Left Wheel Speed
Rear Right Wheel SpeedMPH(km/h)Start the vehicle and make sure of linear change in each
wheel speed.
Turn each wheel by hand and make sure that each
speed data change.
Wheel Sensor StatusOK/NGTo be OK usually
G-sensorLow/HighTo be Low usually
Transfer Monitor(TOD)2 Wheel Drive
4 Wheel DriveWhen 2WD: 2 Wheel Drive
When 4WD: 4 Wheel Drive
Off-Road Switch
(Transmission Input)
Active/InactiveWhen shift lever position is 1, 2 and R: Active (M/T)
(Transmission Input)When shift lever position is L and R: Active (A/T)
Valve RelayActive/InactiveTo be Active usually
ABS StateON/OFFTo be OFF usually
ABS RelayActive/InactiveTo be Active usually
Return Pump RelayActive/InactiveTo be Inactive usually
Front Left Isolation ValveActive/InactiveTo be Inactive usually
Front Left Dump Valve
Front Right Isolation Valve
Front Right Dump Valve
Rear Isolation Valve
Rear Dump Valve
ABS Warning LampON/OFFTo be ON usually (while engine stopped)

5A–56
BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM
Chart B-24 Sensor Signal Input Abnormality (DTC 65)
StepActionYe sNo
1Using TECH 2?Go to Step 2Go to Step 3
21. Connect TECH 2.
2. Select Snap shot manual trigger.
3. With wheel speed data displayed, run the vehicle when speed
has arrived at 30 km/h (18 mph).
4. Check speed data on each wheel (refer to the criterion given
below). *1
Is the abnormal sensor condition found?
Replace.
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 3
All the sensors
should follow the
following
flowchart (without
using TECH 2).
3Is there play in sensor/sensor ring?Repair.
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 4
4Is there powdered iron sticking to sensor/sensor ring?Repair.
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 5
5Is there a broken tooth or indentation in sensor ring?Replace sensor
ring.
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 6
6Is there play in wheel bearing?Adjust or repair.
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 7
7Is the check wiring between sensor and EHCU normal?
Replace EHCU.
Go to Step 8
Repair, and
perform system
self-check.
Go to Step 8
81. Reconnect all components, ensure all components are
properly mounted.
2. Clear diagnostic trouble code.
Was this step finished?
Repeat “Basic
diagnostic flow
chart.”
Go to Step 8
Sensor Signal Abnormality Criteria using
TECH 2
1. While driving, the speed of one or two wheels 25% or
more higher than that of the other wheels.
2. The speed of one or two wheels is 10 km/h (6 mph) or
more higher than that of the other wheels.
3. During steady driving, wheel speed changes abruptly.
*1 The vehicle must run on a level paved road.
NOTE: Even after repairing the faulty part the warning
light (W/L) does not go out if the vehicle is at a stop.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and drive the
vehicle at 12 km/h or higher to make sure that the warning
light goes out.
It is important to verify that the correct tires are installed
on vehicle.

6E–94
ENGINE DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS
Idle Air Control (IAC) System Check
StepActionVa l u e ( s )Ye sNo
11. Ignition “OFF.”
2. Connect the Tech 2.
3. Set the parking brake.
4. Block the wheels.
5. Turn the air conditioning “OFF.”
6. Idle the engine in Park (A/T) or Neutral (M/T).
7. Operate the IAC test.
8. The engine speed should decrease and increase as
the IAC is cycled.
Does the RPM change?
—Go to Step 2Go to Step 3
2RPM should change smoothly.
Does the RPM change within the range specified?700-1500
RPM
—Go to Step 3
3Check the IAC passages.
Are the IAC passages OK?
—Go to Step 4Go to Step 5
4Clear any obstruction from the IAC passages.
Is the action complete?
—Verify repair—
5Replace the IAC. Refer to On-Vehicle Service, Idle Air
Control Valve.
Is the action complete?—Verify repair—

7B–4MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Diagnosis
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Abnormal noiseFlywheel pilot bearing wornReplace
Bearings worn or broken (Mainshaft,
counter shaft, and transfer shaft)Replace
Gear tooth contact surfaces worn or
scuffed (Mainshaft, counter shaft,
reverse idler gear and transfer gears)Replace
Splines worn (Mainshaft,
synchronizer clutch hub)Replace
Gear or bearing thrust face seizedReplace
Lack of backlash between meshing
gearsReplace
Hard ShiftingImproper clutch pedal free playReadjust
Change lever sliding portions wornRepair or replace
Regrease
Shift block, shift rod and/or control
box sliding faces wornReplace
Shift arm and synchronizer sleeve
groove wornReplace worn parts
Thrust washer, collar, and/or gear
thrust faces worn (Mainshaft and
counter shaft thrust play)Replace worn parts
Synchronizer parts wornReplace
Walking or Jumping out of gearDetent ball wornReplace
Detent spring weakened or brokenReplace
Shift rod and/or control box sliding
faces wornReplace
Shift arm and synchronizer sleeve
groove wornReplace worn parts
Thrust washer, collar, and/or gear
thrust faces worn (Mainshaft and
counter shaft thrust play)Replace worn parts
Bearings worn or brokenReplace
Splines worn (Mainshaft,
synchronizer hub)Replace
Synchronizer spring weakened or
brokenReplace
Oil leakageLoose drain plug(s) and/or filler
plug(s)Tighten
Replenish oil
Defective or improperly installed
gasket(s)Replace
Oil seal worn or scratchedReplace

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM9J–5
1. Energy Reserve — The SDM maintains 24–Volt Loop
Reserve (24VLR) energy supply to provide
deployment energy when ignition voltage is lost in a
frontal crash.
2. Frontal Crash Detection — The SDM monitors
vehicle velocity changes to detect frontal crashes
which are severe enough to warrant deployment.
3. Air Bag Deployment — When a frontal crash of
sufficient force is detected, the SDM will cause
enough current to flow through the air bag assembly
to deploy the air bag.
4. Malfunction Detection — The SDM performs
diagnostic monitoring of SRS electrical components
and sets a diagnostic trouble code when a
malfunction is detected.
5. Frontal Crash Recording — The SDM records
information regarding SRS status during frontal
crash.
6. Malfunction Diagnosis — The SDM displays SRS
diagnostic trouble codes and system status
information through the use of a scan tool.
7. Driver Notification — The SDM warns the vehicle
driver of SRS malfunctions by controlling the “Air
Bag” warning lamp.
The SDM is connected to the SRS wiring harness by a
24–pin connector. This harness connector uses a
shorting clip across certain terminals in the contact area.
This shorting clip connects the “AIR BAG” warning lamp
to ground when the SDM harness connector is
disconnected or CPA (Connector Position Assurance) is
not inserted even if completely connected. This will
cause the “AIR BAG” warning lamp to come “ON” steady
whenever the ignition switch is at the ON or START
positions with the SDM disconnected.
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Legend
(1) SDM
(2) SRS Harness
(3) Connector Position Assurance
“Air Bag” Warning Lamp
Ignition voltage is applied to the “AIR BAG” warning lamp
when the ignition switch is at the ON or START positions.
The SDM controls the lamp by providing ground with a
lamp driver. The “AIR BAG” warning lamp is used in the
SRS to do the following:
1. Verify lamp and SDM operation by turn on 3.5
seconds and then turns “OFF” when the ignition
switch is first turned “ON”.
2. Warn the vehicle driver of SRS electrical system
malfunctions which could potentially affect the
operation of the SRS. These malfunctions could
result in nondeployment in case of a frontal crash or
deployment for conditions less severe than intended.
The “AIR BAG ” warning lamp is the key to driver
notification of SRS malfunctions. For proper lamp
operation, refer to the “SRS Diagnostic System Check” in
this section.
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SRS Coil Assembly
The SRS coil assembly consists of two current carrying
coils. This is attached to the steering column and allow
rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining
continuous contact of the driver deployment loop to the
driver air bag assembly.
There is a shorting clip on the yellow 2–pin connector near
the base of steering column which connects the SRS coil
to the SRS wiring harness.
The shorting clip shorts to the SRS coil and driver air bag
assembly when the yellow 2–pin connector is
disconnected. The circuit to the driver air bag assembly is
shorted in this way to help prevent unwanted deployment
of the air bag when servicing the steering column or other
SRS components.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4A2B–4DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4B1–8
DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
Normal Operation
The motor actuator mounted on transfer rear case is
driven by signal from 4WD switch on instrument panel.
After complete the connecting transfer front output gear
to, or disconnecting it from, front propeller shaft, conditionof the transfer position switch changes. The vacuum
solenoid valve (VSV) is driven by the signal from transfer
position switch and the vacuum actuator connects front
wheels to, or disconnect them from, front axles.
Time Chart of Shifting Under Normal Condition
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