1998 ISUZU TROOPER Remove engine

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A – 79
4
1 2
6
3
5 These steps are based on the LHD model.
Removal Steps
1. Front console assembly
2. Lower cluster assembly
3. Steering lower cover
4. Steering wheel
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch
Installation Steps
6. Combination switch
5. Steering column cover
4. Steering wheel
3. Steering lower cover
2. Lower cluster assembly
1. Front console assembly
REMOVAL
1. Front console assembly
1) Remove the transmission (for M/T) and transfer
control lever knob.
2) Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Lower cluster assembly
3. Steering lower cover
Remove the engine hood opening lever.
4. Steering wheel
Apply a setting mark across the steering wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original
position.
COMBINATIONS SWITCH REPLACEMENT
431RW021
These steps are based on the LHD model.

2A – 80 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
INSTALLATION
6. Combination switch
After installations of combinations switch assembly,
connect the combination switch wiring harness
connector.
5. Steering column cover
4. Steering wheel
Align the setting marks made when removing.
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the setting wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft
is designed as an energy absorbing unit.
Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the specified
torque.
Steering wheel Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
34 (3.5 / 25)
3. Steering lower cover
Install the engine hood opening lever.
2. Lower cluster assembly
1. Front console assembly
Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer control
lever knob.
Install the wiring harness connectors. Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires to the straight ahead positions before
removing the steering wheel.
Steering wheel remover:5-8840-0016-0(J-29752)
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft
is designed as an energy absorbing unit.
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch
Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A – 81
These steps are based on the LHD model.
REMOVAL
1. Front console assembly
1) Remove the transmission (for M/T) and transfer
control lever knob.
2) Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Lower cluster assembly
3. Steering lower cover
Remove the engine hood opening lever.
LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
Removal Steps
1. Front console assembly
2. Lower cluster assembly
3. Steering lower cover
4. Steering wheel
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch
7. Snap ring
8. Cushion rubber
9. Shift lock cable (for A/T)
10. Lock cylinder assembly
Installation Steps
10. Lock cylinder assembly
9. Shift lock cable (for A/T)
8. Cushion rubber
7. Snap ring
6. Combination switch
5. Steering column cover
4. Steering wheel
3. Steering lower cover
2. Lower cluster assembly
1. Front console assembly

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN 2A – 85
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch
Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
7. Snap ring
8. Cushion rubber
9. Shift lock cable (for A/T)
10. Lock cylinder assembly
Disconnect the starter switch harness connector
located under the steering column.
11. Steering column assembly
Apply a setting mark across the universal joint and
steering shaft to reassembly the parts in their original
position.
NOTE:
A setting mark can be easily made if the shaft is
withdrawn a little by loosening the steering shaft
universal joint. 3. Steering lower cover
Remove the engine hood opening lever.
4. Steering wheel
Apply a setting mark across the steering wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original
position.
Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires to the straight ahead positions before
removing the steering wheel.
Steering wheel remover:5-8840-0016-0(J-29752)

2A – 86 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
INSTALLATION
11. Steering column assembly
Align the setting marks on the universal joint and
steering shaft made during removal.
Tighten the steering column fixing bolt (dash panel)
to the specified torque.
Steering Column Bolt Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
19 (1.9 / 14)
Tighten the steering column fixing bolt ( pedal
bracket) to the specified torque.
Steering Column Bolt Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
17 (1.7 / 13)
Tighten the universal joint to the specified torque.
Universal Joint Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
25 (2.5 / 18)
10. Lock cylinder assembly
9. Shift lock cable (for A/T)
8. Cushion rubber
7. Snap ring
6. Combination switch
After installation of combination switch assembly,
connect the combination switch wiring harness
connector.
5. Steering column cover
4. Steering wheel
Align the setting marks made when removing.
CAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the
shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an
attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft
is designed as an energy absorbing unit.
Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the specified
torque.
Steering wheel Nut Torque N·m (kg·m/lb·ft)
34 (3.5 / 25)
3. Steering lower cover
Install the engine hood opening lever.
2. Lower cluster assembly
1. Front console assembly
Connect the wiring harness connectors.
Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer control

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B±3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal±to±metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal±to±metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently ªwow±wowsº at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close±fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

4B1±5 DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (SHIFT ON THE FLY)
4. If vacuum is not applicable as much as ±400mmHg,
and if there is resistance on the intake side, replace
with a new check valve.
VSV Assembly
Inspect the vehicle side harness as follows:
412RS071
Legend
(1) Grey
(2) Blue
1. Remove connector.
2. Shift transfer lever to 2H and start the engine.
NOTE: Do not move the vehicle while inspection.
3. Make sure that there is continuity in the vehicle side of
harness. If there is no continuity, check transfer shift
switch and wiring.
Inspect both VSVs as follows:
F04RS004
1. With battery not connected (Usual).
A±C:There is continuity
B:Closed
2. With battery connected
A ± B:There is continuity
C:Closed
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new VSV.
Axle Position Switch
412RS048
1. With ball (1) being free
A ± B:There is continuity
2. With ball forced into the switch
A ± B:No continuity
3. If 1) and 2) fail, replace with a new switch.