1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Alignment

RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER6094). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission cooler. The transmission cooler will
remain on the radiator and can be removed as an
assembly.
(8) Disconnect the electronic viscous fan drive elec-
trical connector.
(9) Using a fastener removal tool, remove the two
push pins and the lower shroud assembly and elec-
tronic viscous fan drive wiring from the upper shroud
assembly. Position wiring out of the way. Do not
impact or damage the electronic viscous fan drive or
pull it's wiring.
(10) Using a fastener tool, remove the wiring har-
ness bracket from the upper fan shroud.
(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 38).
(12) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser or the electronic viscous fan
connector when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
7 - 56 ENGINEDR

INSTALLATION
(1) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(2) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(3) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(5) Connect transmission cooler lines to transmis-
sion cooler. Inspect quick connect fittings for debris
and install until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull
apart to verify connection.
(6) Position power steering cooler on the radiator
and tighten nuts to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.)
(7) Position the electronic viscous fan wiring in the
channel in the upper shroud (Fig. 39). Make sure
that the grommet seats into the channel.
(8) Install lower radiator shroud using two push
pins. Make sure the wiring viscous fan drive wiring
is not pinched.
(9) Install the wiring harness bracket to the upper
shroud.
(10) Connect the viscous fan drive wiring to the
wiring harness.(11) Install the coolant recovery container (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(12) Position coolant recovery tank hose, washer
bottle hose and the positive battery cable into the
clips located on the top of the radiator.
(13) Install air box and turbocharger inlet hose.
Tighten clamps to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
(14) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system and automatic trans-
mission (if equipped) fluid levels.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All cooling systems are equipped with a pressure
cap (Fig. 40). For 5.9L engines, the pressure cap is
located on top of the radiator outlet tank. For all
engines, the pressure cap is located on top of the
coolant degas container. The cap releases pressure at
some point within a range of 97-to-124 kPa (14-to-18
psi). The pressure relief point (in pounds) is engraved
on top of the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
Fig. 38 Fan Shroud Mounting - 5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - RADIATOR SUPPORT
2 - UPPER FAN SHROUD
3 - BOLTS (2)
4 - LOWER FAN SHROUD
5 - RADIATOR
Fig. 39 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Wiring
1 - UPPER SHROUD
2 - WIRING
DRENGINE 7 - 57
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(3) Install the bolts attaching headlamp unit to the
fender (Fig. 11).
(4) Align the seal and install the push pins.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
Headlamps can be aligned using the screen method
provided in this section.
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 12).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Up 1.27 meters (5 feet) from the floor, tape a
line on the wall at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from rear of vehi-
cle forward) to verify accuracy of the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to thealignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment.
(3) Verify proper tire inflation.
(4) Clean headlamp lenses.
(5) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(6) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
A properly aimed low beam headlamp will project
top edge of high intensity pattern on screen from 50
mm (2 in.) above to 50 mm (2 in.) below headlamp
Fig. 12 Headlamp Alignment Screen - Typical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE
2 - CENTER OF HEADLAMP3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FT.)
4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
8L - 16 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORDR
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

centerline. The side-to-side outboard edge of high
intensity pattern should be from 150 mm (6 in.) left
to 150 mm (6 in.) right of headlamp centerline (Fig.
12).The preferred headlamp alignment is 1(
down for the up/down adjustment and 0 for the
left/right adjustment.The high beam pattern
should be correct when the low beams are aligned
properly.
To adjust low beam headlamp, rotate vertical align-
ment screw to achieve the specified aim.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Grasp license plate bulb socket and 1/4 turn
left to release from the license plate lamp unit.
(3) Pull bulb from license plate lamp socket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the bulb in the socket.
(2) Install the socket in to the license plate lamp
unit and 1/4 turn to lock.
(3) Connect the battery negative cable.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Disconnect the harness connector.
(3) Remove the retaining clip. (Fig. 13).
(4) Separate license plate lamp from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position license plate lamp on the bumper.
(2) Install the clip.
(3) Reconnect the harness connector.
(4) Connect the battery negative cable.
MARKER LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FENDER MARKER LAMP
(1) Grasp the lens assembly firmly and push it
rearward to remove the lens assembly from the
fender (Fig. 14).
(2) Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise a quar-
ter turn and remove the bulb socket from the lens
assembly.
Fig. 13 License Plate Lamp Panel
1 - REAR BUMPER
2 - WIRING CONNECTOR
3 - CLIP
4 - LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
Fig. 14 Fender Extension And Marker Lamp
Assembly
1 - WIRING HARNESS AND BULB SOCKET
2 - MARKER LAMP LENS ASSEMBLY
DRLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 17
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

from the centered position, without damaging the
clockspring tape.
However, if the clockspring is removed for service
or if the steering column is disconnected from the
steering gear, the clockspring tape can change posi-
tion relative to the other steering components. The
clockspring must then be re-centered following com-
pletion of such service or the clockspring tape may be
damaged. Service replacement clocksprings are
shipped pre-centered, with a molded plastic locking
pin installed (Fig. 19). This locking pin should not be
removed until the clockspring has been installed on
the steering column. If the locking pin is removed
before the clockspring is installed on a steering col-
umn, the clockspring centering procedure must be
performed.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to
turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in
the straight-ahead position.
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Remove the clockspring from the steering col-
umn. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/
CLOCKSPRING - REMOVAL).
(3) Rotate the clockspring rotor clockwise to the
end of its travel.Do not apply excessive torque.
(4) From the end of the clockwise travel, rotate the
rotor about two and one-half turns counterclockwise.
The engagement dowel and yellow rubber boot
should end up at the bottom, and the arrows on the
clockspring rotor and case should be in alignment.
(5) The clockspring is now centered. Secure the
clockspring rotor to the clockspring case to maintain
clockspring centering until it is reinstalled on the
steering column.
(6) The front wheels should still be in the straight-
ahead position. Reinstall the clockspring onto thesteering column. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RE-
STRAINTS/CLOCKSPRING - INSTALLATION).
REMOVAL
The clockspring cannot be repaired. It must be
replaced if faulty or damaged, or if the driver airbag
has been deployed.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to
turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in
the straight-ahead position.
Fig. 19 Clockspring and Multi-Function Switch
1 - PIGTAIL WIRE (2)
2 - LOCATING TAB
3 - LOCKING PIN
4 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
5 - UPPER CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE (2)
6 - LABEL
7 - ENGAGEMENT DOWEL & BOOT
8 - CASE
9 - CENTERING ARROWS
10 - ROTOR
8O - 20 RESTRAINTSDR
CLOCKSPRING (Continued)

plenum cover/grille panel near the base of the wind-
shield and the wiper blades on the windshield glass
(Fig. 18). These wiper arms feature an over-center
hinge that allows easy access to the windshield glass
for cleaning. The wiper arm has a die cast metal
pivot end with a large internally serrated socket for-
mation at one end. A key within the socket formation
indexes the wiper arm to a keyway in the pivot shaft
of the wiper module to provide wiper alignment, and
a spring-loaded latch on the underside of the wiper
arm pivot end locks the unit to the pivot shaft when
it is fully installed. The right and left wiper arms for
this model are not interchangeable, as the right
wiper arm is slightly longer than the left one.
The wide end of a tapered, stamped steel channel
hinges on and is secured with a hinge pin to the
blade end of the wiper arm pivot end. One end of a
long, rigid, stamped steel strap, with a small hole
near its pivot end, is riveted and crimped within the
narrow end of the stamped steel channel. The tip of
the wiper blade end of this strap is bent back under
itself to form a small hook. Concealed within the
stamped steel channel, one end of a long spring is
engaged with a wire hook on the underside of the die
cast pivot end, while the other end of the spring is
hooked through the small hole in the steel strap. The
entire wiper arm has a satin black finish applied to
all of its visible surfaces.
A wiper arm cannot be adjusted or repaired. If
damaged or faulty, the entire wiper arm unit must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The wiper arms are designed to mechanically
transmit the motion from the wiper pivots to the
wiper blades. The wiper arm must be properly
indexed to the wiper pivot in order to maintain the
proper wiper blade travel on the glass. The serrated
and keyed socket formation in the wiper arm pivot
end interlocks with the serrations and keyway on the
outer circumference of the wiper pivot shaft, provid-
ing positive engagement and alignment of this con-
nection. The latch positively locks the wiper arm to
the wiper pivot shaft when the arm is fully installed.
The spring-loaded wiper arm hinge controls the
down-force applied through the tip of the wiper arm
to the wiper blade on the glass. The hook formation
on the tip of the wiper arm provides a cradle for
securing and latching the wiper blade pivot block to
the wiper arm.
REMOVAL
(1) Lift the wiper arm to its over-center position to
hold the wiper blade off of the glass and relieve the
spring tension on the wiper arm to wiper pivot shaft
connection.(2) Pull the latch on the pivot end of the wiper
arm outward (Fig. 19).
(3) Remove the wiper arm pivot end from the
wiper pivot shaft.
INSTALLATION
The right and left wiper arms are not interchange-
able. The right wiper arm is slightly longer than the
left. Be certain that each wiper arm is installed on
the proper wiper pivot.
(1) Place the wiper arm hinge in its over-center
position prior to attempting installation.
(2) The wiper arms are indexed to the wiper pivot
shafts with integral keys in the wiper arm pivot ends
and keyways in the wiper pivot shafts. Align the key
of the wiper arm to the keyway on the wiper pivot
shaft.
(3) Once the wiper blade is aligned, push the pivot
of the wiper arm down firmly and evenly over the
wiper pivot shaft until it is fully engaged. When the
wiper arm is fully engaged on the wiper pivot, the
spring-loaded latch (Fig. 19) will snap back into place
against the wiper arm pivot end.
(4) Gently lower the wiper arm until the wiper
blade is in position on the windshield glass.
WIPER BLADE
DESCRIPTION
Each wiper blade is secured by an integral latching
pivot block to the hook formation on the tip of each
wiper arm, and rests on the glass near the base of
the windshield when the wipers are not in operation
(Fig. 20). The wiper blade consists of the following
components:
Fig. 19 Wiper Arm Remove/Install
1 - WIPER ARM PIVOT END
2-LATCH
8R - 18 WIPERS/WASHERSDR
WIPER ARM (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring.
Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scor-
ing, grooving, fatigue and pitting (Fig. 45). Replace
any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs (Fig. 46).
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and position
in connecting rod. Center bearing insert in connect-
ing rod (Fig. 47)
Fig. 45 Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
1 - UPPER BEARING HALF
2 - MATING EDGES
3 - GROOVES CAUSED BY ROD BOLTS SCRATCHING JOURNAL
DURING INSTALLATION
4 - WEAR PATTERN - ALWAYS GREATER ON UPPER BEARING
Fig. 46 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
Fig. 47 Bearing Insert Location
1 - Connecting Rod
2 - Bearing Insert
- A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 49
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the
rear flange of the idler shaft are used to control
sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed
through the center of the idler shaft to provide lubri-
cation for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket
assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorporates a controlled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The
measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches) (Fig. 95).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
REMOVAL).
SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
Fig. 95 Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For
Wear
1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77
VALVE TIMING (Continued)