1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Alignment

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 17). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 19).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
Fig. 17 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 18 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 19 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

ACCESSORY DRIVE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................21
OPERATION...........................21
REMOVAL.............................21
INSTALLATION.........................22
BELT TENSIONER-5.7L
DESCRIPTION.........................22
OPERATION...........................22
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
BELT TENSIONER - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION.........................23
OPERATION...........................23REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................24
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT.........................27
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L / 4.7L
DESCRIPTION
Correct drive belt tension is required to ensure
optimum performance of the belt driven engine acces-
sories. If specified tension is not maintained, belt
slippage may cause; engine overheating, lack of
power steering assist, loss of air conditioning capac-
ity, reduced generator output rate, and greatly
reduced belt life.
It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the
3.7L or 4.7L engine. These engines are equipped with
an automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 1). The tensioner
maintains correct belt tension at all times. Due to
use of this belt tensioner, do not attempt to use a belt
tension gauge on 3.7L or 4.7L engines.
OPERATION
The automatic belt tensioner maintains belt ten-
sion by using internal spring pressure, a pivoting
arm and pulley to press against the drive belt.
REMOVAL
On 3.7L and 4.7L engines, the tensioner is
equipped with an indexing tang on back of ten-
sioner and an indexing stop on tensioner hous-
ing. If a new belt is being installed, tang must
be within approximately 24 mm (.94 inches) of
indexing stop. Belt is considered new if it has
been used 15 minutes or less.
If the above specification cannot be met, check for:²The wrong belt being installed (incorrect length/
width)
²Worn bearings on an engine accessory (A/C com-
pressor, power steering pump, water pump, idler pul-
ley or generator)
²A pulley on an engine accessory being loose
²Misalignment of an engine accessory
²Belt incorrectly routed.
NOTE: A used belt should be replaced if tensioner
indexing arrow has moved to the minimum tension
indicator. Tensioner travel stops at this point.
Fig. 1 AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 21

INSTALLATION
(1) Install tensioner assembly to water inlet
bracket. A dowel is located on back of tensioner. Align
this dowel to hole in tensioner mounting bracket.
Tighten bolt to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT
VISUAL DIAGNOSIS
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belts,
small cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the
belt from rib to rib (Fig. 6), are considered normal.
These are not a reason to replace the belt. However,
cracks running along a rib (not across) arenotnor-
mal. Any belt with cracks running along a rib must
be replaced (Fig. 6). Also replace the belt if it has
excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Refer to ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CHART for further belt diagnosis.
NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Noises generated by the accessory drive belt are
most noticeable at idle. Before replacing a belt toresolve a noise condition, inspect all of the accessory
drive pulleys for alignment, glazing, or excessive end
play.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (One or more ribs
has separated from belt body)1. Foreign objects imbedded in
pulley grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage 2. Replace belt
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley misaligned 1. Align pulley(s)
2. Abrasive environment 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary
3. Rusted pulley(s) 3. Clean rust from pulley(s)
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove
tips4. Replace pulley. Inspect belt.
5. Belt rubber deteriorated 5. Replace belt
Fig. 6 Belt Wear Patterns
1 - NORMAL CRACKS BELT OK
2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS REPLACE BELT
7 - 24 ACCESSORY DRIVEDR
BELT TENSIONER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of
insufficient tension1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Belt or pulley exposed to
substance that has reduced friction
(belt dressing, oil, ethylene glycol)2. Replace belt and clean pulleys
3. Driven component bearing failure
(seizure)3. Replace faulty component or
bearing
4. Belt glazed or hardened from
heat and excessive slippage4. Replace belt.
LONGITUDAL BELT CRACKING 1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove1. Replace belt
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member2. Replace belt
9GROOVE JUMPING9
(Belt does not maintain correct
position on pulley)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance2. Replace pulley(s)
3. Foreign object(s) in grooves 3. Remove foreign objects from
grooves
4. Pulley misalignment 4. Align component
5. Belt cordline is broken 5. Replace belt
BELT BROKEN
(Note: Identify and correct problem
before new belt is installed)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Replace Inspect/Replace
tensioner if necessary
2. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation2. Replace belt
3. Severe misalignment 3. Align pulley(s)
4. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure 4. Replace defective component
and belt
NOISE
(Objectionable squeal, squeak, or
rumble is heard or felt while drive
belt is in operation)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Bearing noise 2. Locate and repair
3. Belt misalignment 3. Align belt/pulley(s)
4. Belt to pulley mismatch 4. Install correct belt
5. Driven component induced
vibration5. Locate defective driven
component and repair
TENSION SHEETING FABRIC
FAILURE
(Woven fabric on outside,
circumference of belt has cracked or
separated from body of belt)1. Tension sheeting contacting
stationary object1. Correct rubbing condition
2. Excessive heat causing woven
fabric to age2. Replace belt
3. Tension sheeting splice has
fractured3. Replace belt
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 25
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L (Continued)

DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐACCESSORY
DRIVE BELT
VISUAL DIAGNOSIS
When diagnosing serpentine accessory drive belts,
small cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the
belt from rib to rib (Fig. 9), are considered normal.
These are not a reason to replace the belt. However,
cracks running along a rib (not across) arenotnor-
mal. Any belt with cracks running along a rib must
be replaced (Fig. 9). Also replace the belt if it has
excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Refer to ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CHART for further belt diagnosis.
NOISE DIAGNOSIS
Noises generated by the accessory drive belt are
most noticeable at idle. Before replacing a belt to
resolve a noise condition, inspect all of the accessory
drive pulleys for alignment, glazing, or excessive end
play.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (One or more ribs
has separated from belt body)1. Foreign objects imbedded in
pulley grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage 2. Replace belt
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley misaligned 1. Align pulley(s)
2. Abrasive environment 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary
3. Rusted pulley(s) 3. Clean rust from pulley(s)
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove
tips4. Replace pulley. Inspect belt.
5. Belt rubber deteriorated 5. Replace belt
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of
insufficient tension1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Belt or pulley exposed to
substance that has reduced friction
(belt dressing, oil, ethylene glycol)2. Replace belt and clean pulleys
3. Driven component bearing failure
(seizure)3. Replace faulty component or
bearing
4. Belt glazed or hardened from
heat and excessive slippage4. Replace belt.
Fig. 9 Belt Wear Patterns
1 - NORMAL CRACKS BELT OK
2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS REPLACE BELT
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 27

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LONGITUDAL BELT CRACKING 1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove1. Replace belt
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member2. Replace belt
9GROOVE JUMPING9
(Belt does not maintain correct
position on pulley)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance2. Replace pulley(s)
3. Foreign object(s) in grooves 3. Remove foreign objects from
grooves
4. Pulley misalignment 4. Align component
5. Belt cordline is broken 5. Replace belt
BELT BROKEN
(Note: Identify and correct problem
before new belt is installed)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Replace Inspect/Replace
tensioner if necessary
2. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation2. Replace belt
3. Severe misalignment 3. Align pulley(s)
4. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure 4. Replace defective component
and belt
NOISE (Objectional squeal, squeak,
or rumble is heard or felt while drive
belt is in operation)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Bearing noise 2. Locate and repair
3. Belt misalignment 3. Align belt/pulley(s)
4. Belt to pulley mismatch 4. Install correct belt
5. Driven component induced
vibration5. Locate defective driven
component and repair
TENSION SHEETING FABRIC
FAILURE
(Woven fabric on outside,
circumference of belt has cracked or
separated from body of belt)1. Tension sheeting contacting
stationary object1. Correct rubbing condition
2. Excessive heat causing woven
fabric to age2. Replace belt
3. Tension sheeting splice has
fractured3. Replace belt
CORD EDGE FAILURE
(Tensile member exposed at edges
of belt or separated from belt body)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Belt contacting stationary object 2. Replace belt
3. Pulley(s) out of tolerance 3. Replace pulley
4. Insufficient adhesion between
tensile member and rubber matrix4. Replace belt
NOTE: The engine speed sensor face is very close
to the accessory drive belt. Inspect engine speed
sensor and wire harness for damage when acces-sory drive belt has been replaced due to failure or
abnormal conditions.
7 - 28 ACCESSORY DRIVEDR
DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 37).
(12) Lift the radiator straight up and out of the
engine compartment. Take care not to damage cool-
ing fins or tubes on the radiator and oil coolers when
removing.
NOTE: The radiator is equipped with one alignment
dowel on the bottom of the outlet tank and one
retaining bracket on the front side of the inlet tank.
Both features have rubber insulators attached to
them that must be present. The alignment dowel fits
into a hole at the bottom of the front end sheet
metal vertical support post and the support bracket
rests on top of the lower radiator closure tube.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fan shroud over the fan blades
rearward towards engine.
(2) Install the rubber insulators to the lower radi-
ator mounting features (alignment dowel and support
bracket at the lower part of the radiator).
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the alignment dowel into the vertical post bracket.
Position and seat the lower radiator support bracket
onto the lower radiator closure tube.
(4) Install the upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the lower radiator hose and install the
clamp in the proper position.
(6) Connect the power steering hoses to the power
steering oil cooler and install the clamps.
(7) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the
transmission oil cooler and install the secondary
latches.
(8) Position the fan shroud into the mounting clips
on the radiator tanks and secure with bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(9) Secure the power steering hoses into the clip
on the lower fan shroud.
(10) Install the windshield washer reservoir tank
and connect the hose and electrical connector.
(11) Install coolant reserve/overflow container
hose(s) to radiator filler neck and secure properly
with clamps.
(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
Fig. 37 Radiator
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 55
RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L (Continued)