1998 DODGE RAM 1500 wheel alignment

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

from the centered position, without damaging the
clockspring tape.
However, if the clockspring is removed for service
or if the steering column is disconnected from the
steering gear, the clockspring tape can change posi-
tion relative to the other steering components. The
clockspring must then be re-centered following com-
pletion of such service or the clockspring tape may be
damaged. Service replacement clocksprings are
shipped pre-centered, with a molded plastic locking
pin installed (Fig. 19). This locking pin should not be
removed until the clockspring has been installed on
the steering column. If the locking pin is removed
before the clockspring is installed on a steering col-
umn, the clockspring centering procedure must be
performed.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to
turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in
the straight-ahead position.
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Remove the clockspring from the steering col-
umn. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/
CLOCKSPRING - REMOVAL).
(3) Rotate the clockspring rotor clockwise to the
end of its travel.Do not apply excessive torque.
(4) From the end of the clockwise travel, rotate the
rotor about two and one-half turns counterclockwise.
The engagement dowel and yellow rubber boot
should end up at the bottom, and the arrows on the
clockspring rotor and case should be in alignment.
(5) The clockspring is now centered. Secure the
clockspring rotor to the clockspring case to maintain
clockspring centering until it is reinstalled on the
steering column.
(6) The front wheels should still be in the straight-
ahead position. Reinstall the clockspring onto thesteering column. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RE-
STRAINTS/CLOCKSPRING - INSTALLATION).
REMOVAL
The clockspring cannot be repaired. It must be
replaced if faulty or damaged, or if the driver airbag
has been deployed.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to
turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in
the straight-ahead position.
Fig. 19 Clockspring and Multi-Function Switch
1 - PIGTAIL WIRE (2)
2 - LOCATING TAB
3 - LOCKING PIN
4 - MOUNTING TAB (2)
5 - UPPER CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE (2)
6 - LABEL
7 - ENGAGEMENT DOWEL & BOOT
8 - CASE
9 - CENTERING ARROWS
10 - ROTOR
8O - 20 RESTRAINTSDR
CLOCKSPRING (Continued)

block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the
rear flange of the idler shaft are used to control
sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed
through the center of the idler shaft to provide lubri-
cation for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket
assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorporates a controlled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The
measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches) (Fig. 95).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
REMOVAL).
SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
Fig. 95 Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For
Wear
1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud
assembly.
(4) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(6) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Fig. 103).
(8) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service, MoparT
Engine RTV sealant must be substituted.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water
pump for timing cover removal.
(11) Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to
engine block (Fig. 104).
(12) Remove the timing cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean tim-
ing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing alco-
hol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no
wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers,
or damage to surfaces could result.
Fig. 103 ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - FASTENER TENSIONER TO FRONT COVER
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 81

sprocket assembly. A fixed chain guide and a hydrau-
lic oil damped tensioner are used to maintain tension
in each secondary chain system. The hydraulic ten-
sioners for the secondary chain systems are fed pres-
surized oil from oil reservoir pockets in the block.
Each tensioner also has a mechanical ratchet system
that limits chain slack if the tensioner piston bleeds
down after engine shut down. The tensioner arms
and guides also utilize nylon wear faces for low fric-
tion and long wear. The secondary timing chains
receive lubrication from a small orifice in the ten-
sioners. This orifice is protected from clogging by a
fine mesh screen which is located on the back of the
hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐMEASURING
TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston (Fig.
115). The measurement at point (A) must be less
than 15mm (0.5906 inches).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
REMOVAL).
NOTE: If the secondary chains are to be replaced
the primary chain must also be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE TIMING -
VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 115 Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For
Wear
1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 167
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
2. Engine running too cold. 2. Refer to Coolant Temperature Below
Normal (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Oil viscosity too thick. 3. Make sure the correct oil is being used.
(Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
4. Oil pressure relief valve stuck
closed or binding4. Check and replace valve.
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS 1. External leaks. 1. Visually inspect for oil leaks. Repair as
required.
2. Crankcase being overfilled. 2. Verify that the correct dipstick is being
used.
3. Incorrect oil specification or
viscosity.3. (a) Make sure the correct oil is being
used (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(b) Look for reduced viscosity from dilution
with fuel.
(c) Review/reduce oil change intervals.
4. Oil cooler leak 4. Check and replace the oil cooler.
5. High blow-by forcing oil out the
breather.5. Check the breather tube area for signs of
oil loss. Perform the required repairs.
6. Turbocharger leaking oil to the air
intake.6. Inspect the air ducts for evidence of oil
transfer. Repair as required.
COMPRESSION KNOCKS 1. Air in the fuel system. 1. Identify location of air leak and repair. Do
not bleed high pressure fuel system.
2. Poor quality fuel or water/gasoline
contaminated fuel.2. Verify by operating from a temporary
tank with good fuel. Clean and flush the
fuel tank. Replace fuel/water separator filter.
3. Engine overloaded. 3. Verify the engine load rating is not being
exceeded.
4. Improperly operating injectors. 5. Check and replace misfiring/inoperative
injectors.
EXCESSIVE VIBRATION 1. Loose or broken engine mounts. 1. Replace engine mounts.
2. Damaged fan or improperly
operating accessories.2. Check and replace the vibrating
components.
3. Improperly operating vibration
damper3. Inspect/replace vibration damper.
4. Improperly operating electronically
controlled viscous fan drive.4. Inspect/replace fan drive.
5. Worn or damaged generator
bearing.5. Check/replace generator.
6. Flywheel housing misaligned. 6. Check/correct flywheel alignment.
9 - 234 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5)
Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
73).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 73).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.
(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 74), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
Fig. 72 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 277
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)