1998 DODGE RAM 1500 rear main seal

(15) Remove the two charge air cooler mounting
bolts.
(16) Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser
if equipped) from vehicle.
(17) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(18) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
(19) Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
(20) Remove crankshaft damper and speed indica-
tor ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VI-
BRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(21) Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and
gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking
care not to mar the sealing surfaces. Remove dust
seal with cover.
(22) Using Special Tool 7471±B Crankshaft Bar-
ring Tool, rotate the crankshaft to align the timing
marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft gears.
(23) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(24) Remove the rocker arms, cross heads, and
push rods (Fig. 55). Mark each component so they
can be installed in their original positions.
NOTE: The #5 cylinder intake and the #6 cylinder
intake and exhaust pushrods are removed by lifting
them up and through the provided cowl panel
access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose
these relief holes.
(25) Raise the tappets as follows, using the wooden
dowel rods (Fig. 57)provided with the Miller Tool Kit
8502.
(a) Insert the slotted end of the dowel rod into
the tappet.The dowel rods for the rear two
cylinders will have to be cut for cowl panel
clearance.Press firmly to ensure that it is seated
in the tappet.(b) Raise the dowel rod to bring the tappet to
the top of its travel, and wrap a rubber band
around the dowel rods (Fig. 57) to prevent the tap-
pets from dropping into the crankcase.
(c) Repeat this procedure for the remaining cyl-
inders.
(26) Verify that the camshaft timing marks are
aligned with the crankshaft mark (Fig. 56).
(27) Remove the bolts from the thrust plate.
(28) Remove engine mount through bolts.
(29) Install engine support fixture special tool #
8534,and steel bracket/wing nut special tool #
8534A.
(30) Raise engine enough to allow camshaft
removal.
(31) Remove the camshaft, gear and thrust plate.
Fig. 55 Push Rod Removal/Installation
Fig. 56 Timing Mark Alignment
Fig. 57 Use Wooden Dowel Rods to Secure Tappets
in Place - Typical
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 269
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 293

INSTALLATION
All high-pressure fuel lines are of the same length
and inside diameter. Correct high-pressure fuel line
usage and installation is critical to smooth engine
operation.
CAUTION: Anytime a high-pressure line is removed
from the engine, its fuel connector nut at the cylin-
der head must first be retorqued. Refer to Torque
Specifications.
(1) Tighten fuel lines at high pressure injector con-
nector. Refer to Torque Specifications.
(2) Position fuel line support clamp(s) to fuel
line(s). Install clamp nuts/bolts and tighten finger
tight.
(3) Position proper fuel line to proper injector on
engine. Tighten fittings hand tight at both ends of
line.
(4) Tighten fuel lines at fuel rail. Refer to Torque
Specifications.
(5) Tighten clamp/support nuts and bolts. Refer to
Torque Specifications.
(6) Install engine lifting bracket and bolt. Refer to
Torque Specifications.
(7) If fuel line at either #1 or #2 cylinder has been
replaced, install intake manifold air heater elements
to top of intake manifold. Refer to Intake Air Heater
Removal / Installation for procedures.
(8) If fuel line at #6 cylinder has been replaced, tilt
metal bracket upward and tighten 2 bolts at rear of
cylinder head. Refer to Torque Specifications.
(9) Install remaining fuel line support clamps and
bracket bolts at intake manifold. Refer to Torque
Specifications.
(10) Connect both negative battery cables to both
batteries.
(11) Prime fuel system. Refer to Fuel System
Priming.
(12) Check lines/fittings for leaks.
FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pressure sensor is mounted vertically near
the top/center of the fuel rail.
OPERATION
The fuel pressure sensor monitors actual high-
pressure within the fuel rail. An output signal from
this sensor (relating to fuel pressure) is sent to the
Engine Control Module (ECM).
REMOVAL
The fuel pressure sensor is mounted vertically near
the top/center of the fuel rail (Fig. 17).
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at sensor.
(2) Remove sensor from fuel rail.
(3) Inspect sensor sealing ring and its sealing sur-
face.
Fig. 17 FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR/FUEL PRES.
LIMIT. VALVE
1 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
2 - BANJO BOLT
3 - FUEL PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE
4 - FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
5 - TOP OF INTAKE HEATER MANIFOLD
14 - 60 FUEL DELIVERY - DIESELDR
FUEL LINES (Continued)

Inspect output shaft bearing retainer, the
U-shaped retainer must be flat and free of distortion.
Replace the retainer if the threads are damaged or if
the retainer is bent or cracked.
COUNTERSHAFT BEARINGS AND RACES
The countershaft bearings and races are machine
lapped during manufacture to form matched sets.
The bearings and races should not be interchanged.
NOTE: The bearing races are a permanent press fit
in the housings and are NOT serviceable. If a bear-
ing race becomes damaged, the front or rear hous-
ing must be replaced. A new countershaft bearing
will be supplied with each new housing for service
use.
REVERSE IDLER COMPONENTS
Inspect the idler gear, bearing, shaft, thrust
washer, wave washer and thrust plate. Replace the
bearing if any of the needle bearing rollers are worn,
chipped, cracked, flat-spotted or brinnelled. Also
replace the bearing if the plastic bearing cage is
damaged or distorted.
Replace thrust washer, wave washer or thrust
plate if cracked, chipped or worn. Replace idler gear
if the teeth are chipped, cracked or worn thin.
Replace shaft if worn, scored or the bolt threads are
damaged beyond repair. Replace support segment if
cracked or chipped and replace the idler attaching
bolts if the threads are damaged.
Shift Socket
Inspect the shift socket for wear or damage.
Replace the socket if the roll pin or shift shaft bores
are damaged. Minor nicks in the shift lever ball seat
in the socket can be smoothed down with 400 grit
emery or wet/dry paper. Replace the socket if the ball
seat is worn or cracked. Do not reuse the original
shift socket roll pin. Install anewpin during assem-
bly. The socket roll pin is approximately 33 mm
(1-1/4 in.) long.
Output Shaft And Geartrain
Inspect all gears for worn, cracked, chipped or bro-
ken teeth. Also check condition of the bearing bore in
each gear. The bores should be smooth and free of
surface damage. Discoloration of the gear bores is a
normal occurrence and is not a reason for replace-
ment. Replace gears only when tooth damage has
occurred or if the bores are brinnelled or severely
scored.
Inspect the shaft splines and bearings surfaces.
Minor nicks on the bearing surfaces can be smoothed
with 320/420 grit emery and final polished with cro-
cus cloth. Replace the shaft if the splines are dam-aged or bearing surfaces are deeply scored, worn or
brinnelled.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Sealers are used at all case joints. Use
Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent for all case joints
and Mopar silicone sealer or equivalent for the
input shaft bearing retainer.
SYNCHRONIZER
(1) Slide sleeve onto the hub, leaving enough room
to install the spring in the hub and strut in the hub
groove.
(2) Install first spring in the hub, then install a
strut over the spring. Verify spring is seated in the
spring bore in the strut.
(3) Slide sleeve onto the hub far enough to hold
the first strut and spring in place.
(4) Place detent ball in the top of the strut, then
press the ball into place with a small screwdriver.
Work the sleeve over the ball to hold it in place.
(5) Repeat procedure for the remaining springs,
struts and balls. Use tape or rubber bands to tempo-
rarily secure each strut and ball as they are
installed.
(6) Verify the synchro three springs, struts and
detent balls are all in place (Fig. 49).
Fig. 49 SYNCHRONIZER COMPONENTS
1 - SLEEVE
2 - HUB SHOULDER
3 - SPRING (3)
4 - STRUT (3)
5 - DETENT BALL (3)
6 - HUB
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 17
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)

The driver selects a particular gear by moving the
shift lever to the desired gear position. This move-
ment moves the internal transmission shift compo-
nents to begin the shift sequence. As the shift lever
moves the selected shift rail, the shift fork attached
to that rail begins to move. The fork is positioned in
a groove in the outer circumference of the synchro-
nizer sleeve. As the shift fork moves the synchronizer
sleeve, the synchronizer begins to speed-up or slow
down the selected gear (depending on whether the
driver is up-shifting or down-shifting). The synchro-
nizer does this by having the synchronizer hub
splined to the mainshaft, or the countershaft in some
cases, and moving the blocker ring into contact with
the gear's friction cone. As the blocker ring and fric-
tion cone come together, the gear speed is brought up
or down to the speed of the synchronizer. As the two
speeds match, the splines on the inside of the syn-
chronizer sleeve become aligned with the teeth on
the blocker ring and the friction cone and eventually
will slide over the teeth, locking the gear to the
mainshaft, or countershaft, through the synchronizer.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. A correct lubricant level
check can only be made when the vehicle is level.
Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute or so
before checking. These recommendations will ensure
an accurate check and avoid an underfill or overfill
condition. Always check the lubricant level after any
addition of fluid to avoid an incorrect lubricant level
condition.
Leaks can occur at the mating surfaces of the gear
case, adaptor or extension housing, or from the front/
rear seals. A suspected leak could also be the result
of an overfill condition. Leaks at the rear of the
extension or adapter housing will be from the hous-
ing oil seals. Leaks at component mating surfaces
will probably be the result of inadequate sealer, gaps
in the sealer, incorrect bolt tightening or use of a
non-recommended sealer. A leak at the front of the
transmission will be from either the front bearing
retainer or retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen drip-
ping from the clutch housing after extended opera-
tion. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate
the clutch disc causing the disc to slip, grab and or
chatter.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants isnoise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Component damage, incorrect clutch adjustment or
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc are additional
probable causes of increased shift effort. Incorrect
adjustment or a worn/damaged pressure plate or disc
can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem is
advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn
or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when
shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds. Severe highly audible transmission noise is
generally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant
will promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift
rails, forks and bearings. The overheating caused by
a lubricant problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(2) Remove shift boot screws from floorpan and
slide boot upward on the shift lever.
(3) Remove shift lever extension from shift tower
and lever assembly.
(4) Remove shift tower bolts (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SHIFT TOWER
1 - SHIFT TOWER
2 - SHIFTER
3 - BOLTS
21 - 44 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 (Continued)

(4) Remove countershaft rear bearing plate.
(5) Install a end play shim that will provide mini-
mum countershaft end play. Position shim on rear
bearing cup (Fig. 76).
(6) Install countershaft rear bearing plate (Fig.
73).
NOTE: Verify plate is seated in reverse idler shaft
notch and end play shims are still in position
before installing bolts.
(7) Apply 1-2 drops Mopar Loc N' Seal or equiva-
lent to threads of rear bearing plate bolts. Then
install and tighten bearing plate bolts to 23 N´m (200
in. lbs.).
SHIFT LUG AND RAIL
(1) Lubricate shift lug and rail with CastroltSyn-
torq or equivalent.
(2) Insert shift lug rail part way into case.
(3) Install shift lug on rail.
(4) Position shift rail so roll pin notches are
toward outside of case (Fig. 77).
(5) Install roll pin that secures lug to rail (Fig. 77).
MAINSHAFT AND GEARTRAIN
CAUTION: The reverse, 1-2 and 3-4 synchro compo-
nents can be assembled and installed incorrectly.
Follow assembly procedures for component identi-
fication and location.
Lubricate mainshaft bearing surfaces and all bear-
ing assemblies with CastroltSyntorq or with petro-
leum jelly.(1) Install first snap ring in rear most groove of
mainshaft hub (Fig. 78). This snap ring locates first
gear clutch gear on shaft.
NOTE: Four of these snap rings are used to secure
various components on the mainshaft 1-2 synchro
hub. The snap rings are all the same size and are
interchangeable.
Fig. 76 COUNTERSHAFT END PLAY SHIM
1 - REAR BEARING CUP
2 - END PLAY SHIM (SELECTIVE)Fig. 77 SHIFT LUG AND RAIL
1 - NOTCHES (FOR 5TH GEAR SHIFT FORK ROLL PINS)
2 - LUG RAIL
3 - ROLL PIN HOLE
4 - SHIFT LUG
Fig. 78 FIRST GEAR BEARING AND SNAP RING
1 - SNAP RING
2 - FIRST GEAR BEARING
3 - MAINSHAFT SYNCHRO HUB
21 - 66 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 (Continued)

(5) Install new oil seal in front bearing retainer
with Installer 6052 (Fig. 112). Use one or two wood
blocks to support retainer as shown. Lubricate seal
lip with petroleum jelly after installation.
(6) Clean contact surfaces of gear case and front
bearing retainer with a wax and grease remover.
(7) Apply Mopar Silicone Sealer or equivalent to
flange surface of front bearing retainer (Fig. 113).
(8) Install front bearing retainer over drive gear
and start it into case.
(9) Start front bearing retainer in gear case. Verify
retainer lube channel is at the top-center(12
O'clock)position (Fig. 113).(10) Align front bearing retainer bolt holes and tap
retainer into place with plastic mallet. Installnew
retainer bolts and tighten to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) (Fig.
114).
NOTE: Never reuse the old bolts.
MAINSHAFT END PLAY
(1) Install mainshaft rear bearing cup in case and
over bearing. Tap bearing cup into place with plastic
mallet.
(2) Install rear bearing plate to hold mainshaft
and rear bearing in position (Fig. 115).
NOTE: Do not install any end play shims at this
time.
(3) Tighten rear bearing plate bolts securely.
(4) Place gear case in upright position on bench.
Either cut hole in bench to accept drive gear and
front retainer or use C-clamps to secure transmission
on bench.
NOTE: Do not leave transmission unsupported.
(5) Install Extension Rod 8161 into a suitable
threaded hole in rear of case.
(6) Mount dial indicator on extension rod and posi-
tion indicator plunger against end of mainshaft.
(7) Move mainshaft forward to remove all play
then zero dial indicator.
(8) Move mainshaft upward and record dial indica-
tor reading. Move mainshaft with pry tool positioned
between drive gear and case.
(9) End play should be 0.051-0.15 mm (0.002-0.006
in.). Select fit shims are available to adjust end play.
If end play adjustment is required, remove bearing
plate and install necessary shim.
(10) Reinstall rear bearing plate with oil hole in
bearing plate at the top (Fig. 115).
(11) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or equivalent to
bearing plate bolt threads. Install and tighten bolts
to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
Fig. 112 BEARING RETAINER OIL SEAL
1 - INSTALLER
2 - RETAINER
3 - WOOD BLOCK
Fig. 113 LOCATION OF FRONT RETAINER LUBE
CHANNEL
1 - LUBE CHANNEL
2 - FRONT RETAINER
3 - APPLY GASKET MAKER HERE
Fig. 114 FRONT BEARING RETAINER
1 - DRIVE GEAR
2 - FRONT BEARING RETAINER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 21 - 75
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 (Continued)

INSTALLATION
NOTE: If a new transmission is being installed, use all
components supplied with the new transmission. For
example, if a new shift tower is supplied with the new
transmission, do not re-use the original shift tower.
(1) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to contact surfaces of
the following components:
²input shaft splines.
²release bearing slide surface of front retainer.
²release bearing bore.
²release fork.
²release fork ball stud.
²propeller shaft slip yoke.
(2) Apply sealer to threads of bottom PTO cover
bolt and install bolt in case.
(3) Mount transmission on jack and position trans-
mission under vehicle.
(4) Raise transmission until input shaft is centered
in release bearing and clutch disc hub.
(5)
Move transmission forward and start input shaft
in release bearing, clutch disc and pilot bushing.
(6)Work transmission forward until seated against
clutch housing. Do not allow transmission to remain
unsupported after input shaft has entered clutch disc.
(7) Install transmission bolts and tighten to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install transmission mount on transmission or
rear crossmember.
(9) Install rear crossmember.
(10) Remove transmission jack and engine support
fixture.
(11) Position transmission harness wires in clips
on shift cover.
(12) Install clutch slave cylinder and install slave
cylinder shield, if equipped.
(13) Connect speed sensor and backup light switch
wires.
TWO WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Fill transmission with recommended lubricant.
Correct fill level is bottom edge of fill plug hole.
(2) Align and install propeller shaft.
(3) Lower vehicle.
(4) Clean the mating surfaces of shift tower, isola-
tor plate and shift cover with suitable wax and
grease remover.
(5) Apply Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent to
the sealing surface of the shift cover. Do not over
apply sealant.
(6) Install the isolator plate onto the shift cover,
metal side down.
(7) Install the shift tower onto the isolator plate.
No sealant is necessary between the shift tower and
the isolator plate.(8) Verify that the shift tower, isolator plate and
the shift tower bushings are properly aligned.
(9) Install the bolts to hold the shift tower to the
isolator plate and the shift cover. Tighten the shift
tower bolts to 10.2-11.25 N´m (7.5-8.3 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the shift lever extension onto the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(11) Install shift boot and bezel.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Install transfer case shift mechanism on trans-
mission.
(2) Install transfer case on transmission jack.
Secure transfer case to jack with safety chains.
(3) Raise jack and align transfer case input gear
with transmission mainshaft.
(4) Move transfer case forward and seat it on
adapter.
(5) Install transfer case nuts and tighten to:
²If 3/8 studs 41-47 N´m (30-35 ft. lbs.).
²If 5/16 studs 30-41 N´m (22-30 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install transfer case shift mechanism to side of
transfer case.
(7) Connect transfer case shift lever to range lever
on transfer case.
(8) Align and connect propeller shafts.
(9) Fill transmission with required lubricant.
Check lubricant level in transfer case and add lubri-
cant if necessary.
(10) Install transfer case skid plate, if equipped
and crossmember. Tighten attaching bolts/nuts to 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install exhaust system components.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Clean the mating surfaces of shift tower, iso-
lator plate and shift cover with suitable wax and
grease remover.
(14) Apply Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent to
the sealing surface of the shift cover. Do not over
apply sealant.
(15) Install the isolator plate onto the shift cover,
metal side down.
(16) Install the shift tower onto the isolator plate.
No sealant is necessary between the shift tower and
the isolator plate.
(17) Verify that the shift tower, isolator plate and
the shift tower bushings are properly aligned.
(18) Install the bolts to hold the shift tower to the
isolator plate and the shift cover. Tighten the shift
tower bolts to 10.2-11.25 N´m (7.5-8.3 ft. lbs.).
(19) Install the shift lever extension onto the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(20) Install shift lever boot and bezel.
(21) Connect battery negative cable.
21 - 80 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 (Continued)