1998 DODGE RAM 1500 grease

(8) Tighten pressure plate bolts to:
²V6 & V8 Engines - 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
²V10 & Diesel Engines - 30 N´m (22.5 ft. lbs.)
(9) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear-
ing grease to bore of release bearing, release lever
contact surfaces and release lever pivot stud (Fig. 3).
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to splines of transmission input shaft
and to release bearing slide surface of the transmis-
sion front bearing retainer (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
can result in grease contamination of the disc.
Fig. 1 PRESSURE PLATE POSITION-TYPICAL
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - ALIGNMENT MARKS
3 - PRESSURE PLATE
Fig. 2 CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC
3 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
Fig. 3 LUBRICATION POINTS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - FORK PIVOT BALL
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING BORE
5 - LUBE POINTS
Fig. 4 INPUT SHAFT LUBRICATION POINTS
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - BEARING RETAINER
3 - SPLINE AND RELEASE BEARING SURFACE
6 - 6 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

To correct this example (Fig. 11) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.
NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 12).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case (Fig.
13).
(2) Remove starter from clutch housing.
(3) Remove structural dust cover bolts from clutch
housing.
CAUTION: Do not remove structural dust cover
from enigne block. If cover is removed clutch hous-
ing and cover must be aligned with the engine.(4) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Install structural dust cover if removed (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL
COVER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Align and install clutch housing on engine (Fig.
14). Tighten housing bolts across the top of the hous-
ing first and to the following torque values:
²ªAº bolts 1/4in. diameter - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 3/8in. diameter - 40 N´m (30 ft.lb.)
²ªAº bolts 7/16in. diameter - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªBº bolts for 5.7L 5.9L TD/8.0L engines - 47.5
N´m (40 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.7L engine - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD engine - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.)
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L engine - 74.5 N´m (55 ft.lb.)
(6) Install starter to clutch housing.
(7) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(2) Remove spring clip.
Fig. 11 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE CIRCLE (AT RIM OF BORE)
Fig. 12 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
Fig. 13 TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH HOUSING-NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
DRCLUTCH 6 - 9
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position switch (CPPS) is mounted
on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig. 20). The
wiring harness connector is inside of the vehicle
under the left side of the instrument panel.
NOTE: Switch is serviced with clutch master cylin-
der.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to
either shut down/prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when pedal is depressed. The position
switch is an integral part of the clutch master cylin-
der push rod.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Disconnect switch 2-wire connector attached to
pedal support bracket, under instrument panel to left
of clutch pedal (Fig. 21).(2) Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
²Pedal Depressed - Continuity
²Pedal Released - No Continuity
(3) If continuity is not present or always present,
replace clutch master cylinder. Switch is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 20 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 21 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
LINKAGE (Continued)

(6) Remove the battery hold down retaining bolt.
WARNING: WEAR A SUITABLE PAIR OF RUBBER
GLOVES (NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE) WHEN
REMOVING A BATTERY BY HAND. SAFETY
GLASSES SHOULD ALSO BE WORN. IF THE BAT-
TERY IS CRACKED OR LEAKING, THE ELECTRO-
LYTE CAN BURN THE SKIN AND EYES.
(7) Remove the battery from the battery tray.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery.
(2) Position the battery onto the battery tray.
Ensure that the battery positive and negative termi-
nal posts are correctly positioned. The battery cable
terminal clamps must reach the correct battery ter-
minal post without stretching the cables.
(3) Position the battery hold down and install the
retaining bolt.
CAUTION: Be certain that the battery cable terminal
clamps are connected to the correct battery termi-
nal posts. Reversed battery polarity may damage
electrical components of the vehicle.
(4) Clean the battery cable terminal clamps and
the battery terminal posts.
(5) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 4 N´m (35
in. lbs.).
(7) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.
(8) Obtain a DRB IIItscan tool and check the
PCM for any stored battery disconnect trouble code,
if required.
BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery hold down hardware includes a bolt
and a molded plastic hold down bracket which
meshes with the battery tray when properly
installed. The battery tray and hold down hardware
combine to form a very stable and secure battery
hold down assembly.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-
tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen and remove the battery hold down
retaining bolt.
(2) Remove the battery hold down bracket from
the battery case.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery hold down hard-
ware (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM
- CLEANING).
(2) Position the battery hold down bracket in the
battery tray. Be certain that the hold down bracket is
properly positioned in the battery tray before tight-
ening the hold down hardware.
(3) Install and tighten the battery hold down
retaining bolt.
BATTERY CABLES
DESCRIPTION
The battery cables are large gauge, stranded cop-
per wires sheathed within a heavy plastic or syn-
thetic rubber insulating jacket. The wire used in the
battery cables combines excellent flexibility and reli-
ability with high electrical current carrying capacity.
Refer to Wiring for the location of the proper battery
cable wire gauge information.
The battery cables cannot be repaired and, if dam-
aged or faulty they must be replaced. Both the bat-
tery positive and negative cables are available for
service replacement only as a unit with the battery
positive cable wire harness or the battery negative
cable wire harness, which may include portions of
the wiring circuits for the generator and other com-
ponents on some models.
Most models feature a stamped brass clamping
type female battery terminal crimped onto one end of
the battery cable wire and then solder-dipped. A
pinch-bolt and hex nut are installed at the open end
of the female battery terminal clamp. The battery
positive cable also includes a red molded rubber pro-
tective cover for the female battery terminal clamp.
8F - 14 BATTERY SYSTEMDR
BATTERY (Continued)

(4) Remove coil mounting nut from mounting stud
(Fig. 17).
(5) Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head open-
ing with a slight twisting action.
(6) Remove coil from vehicle.
5.7L V-8
Before removing or disconnecting any spark plug
cables, note their original position. Remove cables
one-at-a-time. To prevent ignition crossfire, spark
plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing
loom) into their original position.
An individual ignition coil (Fig. 18) is used at each
cylinder. The coil mounts to the top of the valve cover
with 2 bolts (Fig. 19). The bottom of the coil is
equipped with a rubber boot to seal the spark plug to
the coil. Inside each rubber boot is a spring. The
spring is used for a mechanical contact between the
coil and the top of the spark plug.
(1) Depending on which coil is being removed, the
throttle body air intake tube or intake box may need
to be removed to gain access to coil.
(2) Unlock electrical connector (Fig. 19) by moving
slide lock first. Press on release lock (Fig. 19) while
pulling electrical connector from coil.
(3) Disconnect secondary high-voltage cable from
coil with a twisting action.
(4) Clean area at base of coil with compressed air
before removal.
(5) Remove 2 mounting bolts (note that mounting
bolts are retained to coil).
(6) Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head open-
ing with a slight twisting action.
(7) Remove coil from vehicle.
(8) Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, or before installing a coil to a
spark plug, apply dielectric grease to inside of boots.
INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or con-
taminants from around top of spark plug.
(2) Check condition of coil o-ring and replace as
necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring.
(3) Position ignition coil into cylinder head opening
and push onto spark plug. Do this while guiding coil
base over mounting stud.
(4) Install coil mounting stud nut. Refer to torque
specifications.
(5) Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping
into position.
(6) If necessary, install throttle body air tube.
4.7L V-8
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or con-
taminants from around top of spark plug.
(2) Check condition of coil o-ring and replace as
necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring.
(3) Position ignition coil into cylinder head opening
and push onto spark plug. Do this while guiding coil
base over mounting stud.
(4) Install coil mounting stud nut. Refer to torque
specifications.
(5) Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping
into position.
(6) If necessary, install throttle body air tube.
5.7L V-8
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or con-
taminants from around top of spark plug.
(2) Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, or before installing a coil to a
spark plug, apply dielectric grease to inside of boots.
(3) Position ignition coil into cylinder head opening
and push onto spark plug. Twist coil into position.
(4) Install 2 coil mounting bolts. Refer to torque
specifications.
(5) Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping
into position.
(6) Install cable to coil. To prevent ignition cross-
fire, spark plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray
(routing loom) into their original position. Refer to
Spark Plug Cable Removal for a graphic.
(7) If necessary, install throttle body air tube.
KNOCK SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The sensors are used only with 3.7L V-6, 4.7L V-8
and 5.7L V-8 engines. On 3.7L V-6 and 4.7L V-8
engines, the 2 knock sensors are bolted into the cyl-
inder block under the intake manifold.
On 5.7L V-8 engines, 2 knock sensors are also
used. These are bolted into each side of the cylinder
block (outside) under the exhaust manifold.
OPERATION
3.7L V-6 / 4.7L V-8 / 5.7L V-8 Engines Only
Two knock sensors are used; one for each cylinder
bank. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one
of the cylinders on the corresponding bank, it sends
an input signal to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). In response, the PCM retards ignition timing
for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
8I - 14 IGNITION CONTROLDR
IGNITION COIL (Continued)

removed is under coil, coil must be removed to gain
access to spark plug. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/
Installation and observe all CAUTIONS and WARN-
INGS.
Before removing or disconnecting any spark plug
cables, note their original position. Remove cables
one-at-a-time. To prevent ignition crossfire, spark
plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing
loom) into their original position. Refer to Spark Plug
Cable Removal for a graphic.
Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil (if coil removal
is necessary), spray compressed air around coil base
at cylinder head cover.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
CLEANING
CLEANING AND ADJUSTMENT
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
Adjust spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool
(Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
4.7L V-8
CAUTION: The 4.7L V±8 engine is equipped with
copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They
must be replaced with the same type/number spark
plug as the original. If another spark plug is substi-
tuted, pre-ignition will result.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
Fig. 30 SETTING SPARK PLUG GAP - TYPICAL
1 - GAUGE TOOL
2 - SPARK PLUG
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)