1998 DODGE RAM 1500 grease

(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
5.7L V-8
(1) Special care should be taken when installing
spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells.
Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as
electrodes can be damaged.
(2) Start the spark plug into cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading aluminum threads. To
aid in installation, attach a piece of rubber hose, or
an old spark plug boot to spark plug.
(3) The 5.7L V-8 is equipped with torque critical
design spark plugs. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque.
Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications.
(4) Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(5) To prevent ignition crossfire, spark plug cables
MUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing loom) into
their original position. Refer to Spark Plug Cable
Removal for a graphic.
(6) Install ignition coil(s) to necessary spark plugs.
Refer to Ignition Coil Installation.
(7) Install spark plug cables to remaining spark
plugs. Remember to apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
IGNITION COIL CAPACITOR
DESCRIPTION
One coil capacitor is used. It is located in the right-
rear section of the engine compartment.
OPERATION
The coil capacitor(s) help dampen the amount of
conducted electrical noise to the camshaft position
sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and throttle posi-
tion sensor. This noise is generated on the 12V sup-
ply wire to the ignition coils and fuel injectors.
REMOVAL
The coil capacitor is located in the right-rear sec-
tion of the engine compartment. It is attached with a
mounting stud and nut.
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at capacitor
(Fig. 31).
(2) Remove mounting nut and remove ground
strap.
(3) Remove capacitor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position capacitor to mounting stud.
(2) Position ground strap to mounting stud.
(3) Tighten nut to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect electrical connector to coil capacitor.
SPARK PLUG CABLE
DESCRIPTION
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition wires, or secondary ignition cables.
Plug cables are used only on the 5.7L V-8 engine.
OPERATION
The spark plug cables transfer electrical current
from the ignition coil(s) and/or distributor, to individ-
ual spark plugs at each cylinder. The resistive spark
plug cables are of nonmetallic construction. The
cables provide suppression of radio frequency emis-
sions from the ignition system.
Plug cables are used only on the 5.7L V-8 engine.
Fig. 31 CAPACITOR LOCATION
1 - COIL CAPACITOR
2 - MOUNTING STUD
3 - GROUND STRAP
4 - MOUNTING NUT
5 - ELEC. CONNECT.
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 21
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

REMOVAL
5.7L V-8
Spark plug cables on the 5.7L engine are paired on
cylinders 1/6, 2/3, 4/7 and 5/8. Before removing or
disconnecting any spark plug cables, note their orig-
inal position (Fig. 32). Remove cables one-at-a-time.
To prevent ignition crossfire, spark plug cables
MUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing loom) into
their original position. The cable retention clips (Fig.
32) must also be securly locked.
Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
If cable tray removal is necessary, release the 4
tray-to-manifold retention clips (Fig. 32).
INSTALLATION
Install cables into the proper engine cylinder firing
order sequence. Refer to Specifications.
When replacing the spark plug and coil cables,
route the cables correctly and secure them in the
proper retainers. Failure to route the cables properly
may cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise. It
could also cause cross-ignition of the plugs, or, may
short-circuit the cables to ground.
When installing new cables, make sure a positive
connection is made. A snap should be felt when a
good connection is made.
5.7L V-8
Refer to Spark Plug Cable Removal for
information.
Fig. 32 5.7L SPARK PLUG CABLE ROUTING
1 - #8 COIL-TO- #5 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 5/8) 7 - CABLE TRAY
2 - #5 COIL-TO- #8 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 5/8) 8 - CLIPS (SPARK PLUG CABLE-TO-TRAY- RETENTION)
3 - #7 COIL-TO- #4 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 4/7) 9 - #2 COIL-TO- #3 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 2/3)
4 - #3 COIL-TO- #2 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 2/3) 10 - #6 COIL-TO- #1 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 1/6)
5 - #1 COIL-TO- #6 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 1/6) 11 - #4 COIL-TO- #7 SPARK PLUG (MARKED 4/7)
6 - CLIPS (TRAY-TO-MANIFOLD RETENTION)
8I - 22 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG CABLE (Continued)

(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vac-
uum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
5.7 Gas
Vacuum is not used for any part of the speed con-
trol system if equipped with a 5.7L V-8 engine.
5.9L Diesel Engine With Manual Trans.
Vacuum is not used for any part of the speed con-
trol system if equipped with a diesel engine and a
manual transmission.
5.9L Diesel Engines With Automatic Trans.
If equipped with a diesel powered engine and an
automatic transmission, an electric vacuum pump
and vacuum lines are used to supply vacuum to the
speed control servo. A vacuum reservoir is not used.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ROAD TEST
Perform a vehicle road test to verify reports of
speed control system malfunction. The road test
should include attention to the speedometer. Speed-ometer operation should be smooth and without flut-
ter at all speeds.
Flutter in the speedometer indicates a problem
which might cause surging in the speed control sys-
tem. The cause of any speedometer problems should
be corrected before proceeding. Refer to Instrument
Cluster for speedometer diagnosis.
If a road test verifies a system problem and the
speedometer operates properly, check for:
²A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If a DTC
exists, conduct tests per the Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures service manual.
²A misadjusted brake (stop) lamp switch. This
could also cause an intermittent problem.
²Loose, damaged or corroded electrical connec-
tions at the servo (if used). Corrosion should be
removed from electrical terminals and a light coating
of Mopar MultiPurpose Grease, or equivalent,
applied.
²Leaking vacuum reservoir (if used).
²Loose or leaking vacuum hoses or connections (if
used).
²Defective one-way vacuum check valve (if used).
²Secure attachment of both ends of the speed con-
trol servo cable (if used).
²Smooth operation of throttle linkage (if used)
and throttle body air valve.
²Failed speed control servo (if used). Do the servo
vacuum test.
CAUTION: When test probing for voltage or conti-
nuity at electrical connectors, care must be taken
not to damage connector, terminals or seals. If
these components are damaged, intermittent or
complete system failure may occur.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE - SPEED CONTROL
DESCRIPTION N-m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Servo Mounting Bracket-
to-Servo Nuts7-60
Servo Mounting Bracket-
to-Battery Tray Screws4-30
Speed Control Switch
Mounting Screws1.7 - 15
Vacuum Reservoir
Mounting Nuts3-20
DRSPEED CONTROL 8P - 3
SPEED CONTROL (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

ENGINE - 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR
CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
9 - 90 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 93)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
Fig. 93 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 152 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL
- REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 183
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)