1998 DODGE RAM 1500 Washer pump

(3) Connect the electrical connectors by pushing
straight on and rotating the connector arm inboard,
until the connector is firmly locked in place on the
module assembly.
(4) Grasp the integrated power module with two
hands and install the assembly on the battery tray
(Fig. 5).
(5) Install the integrated power module retaining
bolt and screw.
(6) Connect the gray connector on the integrated
power module housing.
(7) Install the B+ terminal cable and nut on the
integrated power module B+ terminal. Snap the
cover in place.
(8) Connect the negative and positive battery
cables.
FRONT CONTROL MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The Front Control Module (FCM) is a micro con-
troller based module located in the left front corner
of the engine compartment. On this model the inte-
grated power module must be positioned aside in
order to access the front control module. The front
control module mates to the power distribution cen-
ter to form the Integrated Power Module (IPM). Theintegrated power module connects directly to the bat-
tery and provides the primary means of circuit pro-
tection and power distribution for all vehicle
electrical systems. The front control module controls
power to some of these vehicle systems electrical and
electromechanical loads based on inputs received
from hard wired switch inputs and data received on
the PCI bus circuit (J1850).
For information on theIntegrated Power Mod-
ule Refer to the Power Distribution Sectionof
the service manual.
OPERATION
As messages are sent over the PCI bus circuit, the
front control module reads these messages and con-
trols power to some of the vehicles electrical systems
by completing the circuit to ground (low side driver)
or completing the circuit to 12 volt power (high side
driver). The following functions areControlledby
the Front Control Module:
²Headlamp Power with Voltage Regulation
²Windshield Wiper ªON/OFFº Relay Actuation
²Windshield Wiper ªHI/LOº Relay Actuation
²Windshield Washer Pump Motor
²Fog Lamp Relay Actuation
²Park Lamp Relay Actuation
²Horn Relay Actuation
The following inputs areReceived/Monitoredby
the Front Control Module:
²B+ Connection Detection
²Power Ground
²Ambient Temperature Sensing
²Ignition Switch Run
²Washer Fluid Level Switch
²Windshield Wiper Park Switch
²PCI Bus Circuit
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT CONTROL
MODULE
The front control module is a printed circuit board
based module with a on-board micro-processor. The
front control module interfaces with other electronic
modules in the vehicle via the Programmable Com-
munications Interface (PCI) data bus (J1850). In
order to obtain conclusive testing the Programmable
Communications Interface (PCI) data bus network
and all of the electronic modules that provide inputs
to, or receive outputs from the front control module
must be checked. All PCI (J1850) communication
faults must be resolved prior to further diagnosing
any front control module related issues.
The front control module was designed to be diag-
nosed with an appropriate diagnostic scan tool, such
as the DRB IIIt. The most reliable, efficient, and
accurate means to diagnose the front control module
Fig. 5 INTEGRATED POWER MODULE MOUNTING
TABS
1 - INTEGRATED POWER MODULE MOUNTING HOLES
2 - BATTERY TRAY ASSEMBLY
3 - FRONT CONTROL MODULE
DR8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 5
INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
8. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.8. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
9 - 6 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a three throw split pin design with
six counterweights for balancing purposes. The
crankshaft is supported by four select fit main bear-
ings with the No. 2 serving as the thrust washer
location. The main journals of the crankshaft are
cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication. The
No. 6 counterweight has provisions for crankshaft
position sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit
main bearing markings are located on the rear side
of the target wheel (Fig. 31). The crankshaft oil seals
are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in
the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed
in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the
bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine(Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the engine oil pump(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the two stud bolts for installation.
(4) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
severe damage to the crankshaft.
Fig. 31 CRANKSHAFT AND TARGET RING
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TARGET RING
9 - 40 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets. Refer to procedure in this sec-
tion.
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud
assembly.
(4) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(6) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Fig. 103).
(8) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service, MoparT
Engine RTV sealant must be substituted.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water
pump for timing cover removal.
(11) Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to
engine block (Fig. 104).
(12) Remove the timing cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean tim-
ing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing alco-
hol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no
wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers,
or damage to surfaces could result.
Fig. 103 ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - FASTENER TENSIONER TO FRONT COVER
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 81

²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required.
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner (Fig. 111). Slowly open vise to
transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install
Torxtbolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.).
CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the
cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides
to the engine block.
(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torxt
bolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion.
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the
counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler
sprocket is fully seated.
(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 112). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to
aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the
idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the coun-
terbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket
fully (Fig. 113). Before installing idler sprocket bolt,
lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket
assembly retaining bolt to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 111 RESETTING SECONDARY CHAIN
TENSIONERS
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 112 INSTALLING IDLER GEAR, PRIMARY AND
SECONDARY TIMING CHAINS
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 85
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
8. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.8. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
9 - 92 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

CORE PLUGS
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw
driver and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the
cup plug (Fig. 55)
(3) Using a suitable pair of pliers, grasp the core
plug and remove.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all
of the old sealer.
(1) Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the
core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equiva-
lent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to
cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be
filled and the vehicle returned to service immedi-
ately.
(2) Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into
the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug
should be at least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead
in chamfer.
(3) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design
with eight counterweights for balancing purposes.
The crankshaft is supported by five select fit main
bearings with the number three serving as the thrust
washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft
are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication.
The number eight counterweight has provisions for
crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting.
The select fit main bearing markings are located on
the rear side of the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is
retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal
is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block
and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the engine oil pump.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the three stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
Fig. 55 Engine Core Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 131

VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Remove radiator upper hose.
(5) Remove upper fan shroud.
(6) Using Special Tools 6958 Spanner with Adapter
Pins 8346, loosen fan and viscous assembly from
water pump (Fig. 81).
(7) Remove fan and viscous assembly.
(8) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted
inside radiator shroud.
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
(10) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513
Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 82).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512±A, thoroughlyclean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
(1) Align crankshaft damper slot with key in
crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512±A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
(2) Assemble Special Tool 8512±A as follows, The
nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hard-
ened bearing surface of the bearingMUSTface the
nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the
threaded rod (Fig. 83). Once assembled coat the
threaded rod's threads with MopartNickel Anti-
Seize or equivalent.
(3) Using Special Tool 8512±A, press damper onto
crankshaft (Fig. 84).
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
175 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-
teners to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
(8) Install radiator upper hose.
Fig. 81 FAN ASSEMBLY - REMOVAL/ASSEMBLY
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
2-FAN
Fig. 82 CRANKSHAFT DAMPER - REMOVAL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
9 - 144 ENGINE - 4.7LDR