1998 DODGE RAM 1500 transmission

KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LEFT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket (Fig. 21).
(3) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
REMOVAL - RIGHT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the exhaust system at the mani-
folds.
(3) Disconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Support the transmission.
(5) Remove the transmission cross member.
(6) Lower the exhaust system down in order to
gain access to the removal of the upper bolt.(7) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
(8) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket.
(9) Remove the suspension arm from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LEFT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION - RIGHT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts, then finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Reconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Reconnect the exhaust at the manifolds.
(5) Install the transmission crossmember.
(6) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(7) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 21 Link/Coil Suspension
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SHOCK ABSORBER
3 - COIL SPRING
4 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
5 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
6 - TRACK BAR
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 37

(10) Start engine and check vibration. If there is
little or no change move the clamp to the next posi-
tions. Repeat the vibration test.
NOTE: If there is no difference in vibration at this
positions, the vibration may not be the propeller
shaft.
(11) If vibration decreased, install a second clamp
(Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(12) If additional clamp causes an additional vibra-
tion, separate the clamps 1/2 inch above and below
the mark. Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(13) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat test, until the least amount of vibration is
noticed. Bend the slack end of the clamps so screws
will not loosen.
(14) If vibration remains unacceptable, repeat the
procedure to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(15) Install wheels and lower vehicle.PROPELLER SHAFT RUNOUT
(1) Clean propeller shaft surface, where dial indi-
cator will contact the shaft.
(2) Install dial indicator perpendicular to the shaft
surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft away from weld areas, so weld process does not
affect measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If runout is out of specification, index the shaft
180É and take shaft runout measurements again.
(6) If runout is now within specifications, mark
shaft and yokes for proper orientation.
(7) If runout is not within specifications, verify
runout of the transmission/transfer case and axle are
within specifications. Correct as necessary and mea-
sure propeller shaft runout again.
(8) Replace propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.030 in. (0.76 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.015 in. (0.38 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.030 in. (0.76 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE
This procedure applies to front and rear propeller
shafts.
NOTE: To obtain output angle (A) on the front pro-
peller shaft equipped with a C/V joint, place incli-
nometer on machined surface of the C/V joint.
(1) Place vehicle in Neutral.
(2) Raise vehicle and support the axles as level as
possible.
(3) Remove universal joint snap rings if equipped,
so Inclinometer 7663 base sits flat.
(4) Rotate shaft until transmission/transfer case
output yoke bearing is facing downward.
NOTE: Always take measurements from front to
rear and on the same side of the vehicle.
(5) Place inclinometer on yoke bearing cap or pin-
ion flange ring (A) parallel to the shaft (Fig. 4). Cen-
ter bubble in sight glass and record measurement.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMP SCREWS
Fig. 3 CLAMP SCREWS SEPARATED
1-1¤2INCH
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

This measurement will give you the transmis-
sion yoke Output Angle (A).
(6) Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place
Inclinometer on yoke bearing parallel to the shaft
(Fig. 5). Center bubble in sight glass and record mea-
surement. This measurement can also be taken at
the rear end of the shaft.
This measurement will give you the Propeller
Shaft Angle (C).(7) Rotate propeller shaft 90 degrees and place
inclinometer on companion flange yoke bearing par-
allel to the shaft (Fig. 6). Center bubble in sight glass
and record measurement.
This measurement will give you the pinion
Companion Flange Input Angle (B).
(8) Subtract smaller figure from larger (C minus
A) to obtain Transmission/Transfer CaseOutput
Operating Angle.
(9) Subtract smaller figure from larger (C minus
B) to obtain axleInput Operating Angle.
Refer to rules and example in (Fig. 7) for addi-
tional information.
RULES
²Good cancellation of U-joint operating angles
should be within 1 degree.
²Operating angles should be less than 3 degrees.
²Operating angles less than 10 degrees for double
cardan U-joint.
²At least 1/2 of one degree continuous operating
propeller shaft angle.
TWO-PIECE PROPELLER SHAFT
Two-piece propeller shaft angles measurement (Fig.
8) is the same as a one-piece propeller shaft.
Fig. 4 OUTPUT ANGLE (A)
Fig. 5 PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE (C)
Fig. 6 INPUT ANGLE (B)
3 - 4 PROPELLER SHAFTDR
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Mark pinion flange or yoke and propeller shaft
flange or yoke (Fig. 12) for installation reference.
(3) Mark the outline of the center bearing (Fig. 13)
on the crossmember for installation reference, if
equipped.
(4) Remove center bearing mounting nuts, if
equipped.
(5) Remove pinion flange or yoke clamp bolts.
(6) Slide propeller shaft off transmission or trans-
fer case and remove shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide slip yoke onto the transmission/transfer
case output shaft.
(2) Align and install center bearing on crossmem-
ber, if equipped and tighten nuts to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Align reference marks on propeller shaft and
pinion flange or pinon yoke.(4) Installnewbolts and tighten to:
²(Fig. 14) Companion flange bolts 15 N´m (85 ft.
lbs.)
²(Fig. 15) Yoke clamp bolts 29 N´m (22 ft. lbs.)
NOTE: Companion flange bolts incorporate a Loc-
titeTpatch, new bolts should be used. If bolts are
not available, clean bolts and apply LoctiteT242 to
the threads.
Fig. 12 COMPANION FLANGE
1 - PROPELLER SHAFT
2 - COMPANION FLANGE
3 - REFERENCE MARK
4 - SHAFT FLANGE YOKE
Fig. 13 CENTER BEARING
1 - CENTER BEARING
2 - DUST BOOT
3 - MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 14 REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
1 - COMPANION FLANGE
2 - PROPELLER SHAFT
3 - 8 PROPELLER SHAFTDR

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................21CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to heed cau-
tion may result in damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking
grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A
torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer
joint which has allowed the grease to be lost will
damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or
a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment
may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(4) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(5) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(6) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(7) Disengage inner C/V joint from axle shaft with
two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle hous-
ing.
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - 20 HALF SHAFTDR

VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints/CV joint.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear and lis-
ten for the noise. A mechanics stethoscope is helpful
in isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
3 - 28 FRONT AXLE - C205FDR
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)

VIBRATION
Vibration at the front/rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a vibration. Do
not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive
belts.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear and lis-
ten for the noise. A mechanics stethoscope is helpful
in isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 55
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)

LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by:
²Worn U-joint.
²Worn side gear thrust washers.
²Worn pinion shaft bore.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
DRREAR AXLE - 9 1/4 3 - 81
REAR AXLE - 9 1/4 (Continued)