(7) Remove the stabilizer link (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/STABILIZER LINK - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the lower ball joint nut at the steering
knuckle.
(9) Install Ball Joint Remover tool 8677 on the
lower ball joint and separate the ball joint from the
knuckle.
(10)
NOTE: Do not allow the upper control arm and
steering knuckle to rebound downwards they must
be supported.Support the upper control arm and
steering knuckle out of the way.
(11) Remove the lower control arm support.
(12) Tighten the spring compressor tool to allow
clearance for the lower ball joint to be removed out of
the knuckle.
NOTE: It may necessary to loosen the control arm
pivot bolt to allow downward swing.
(13) Loosen the tension on the spring compressor
tool slowly allowing the lower suspension arm to
pivot downward.
(14) Remove the spring compressor tool.
(15) Remove coil spring and isolator pad from the
vehicle (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Tape the isolator pad to the top of the coil
spring. Position the spring in the lower suspension
arm well. Be sure that the coil spring is seated in the
well.
(2) Install Spring Compressor DD-1278 up through
the lower suspension arm, coil spring and shock hole
in the frame.(3) Tighten the tool nut to compress the coil
spring.
(4) Remove the support from the upper control
arm and steering knuckle.
(5) Position the lower ball joint into the steering
knuckle.
(6) Install the retaining nut on the lower ball joint
and tighten to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.)(on 1500 series only
an additional 90É turn is required) or 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.)(HD 4X2 only).
(7) Remove the spring compressor tool.
(8) Support the lower control arm at the outboard
side of the lower control arm to support vehicle
weight.
(9) Install the shock absorber. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/SHOCK - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the stabilizer link (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/STABILIZER LINK - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Remove the lower control arm support.
(12) Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower
the vehicle. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Lower the vehicle to the floor with vehicle
weight and Tighten the front and rear control arm
pivot bolts if loosened to 204 N´m (150 ft. lbs.)(LD) or
285 N´m (210 ft. lbs.)(HD 4X2 only).
(14) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 25 SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL DD-1278
2 - BELL-SHAPED ADAPTER
Fig. 26 COIL SPRING
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - OUTER TIE ROD END
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
5 - SHOCK
DRFRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 23
SPRING (Continued)
HUB / BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the hub extension mounting nuts and
remove the extension from the rotor if equipped (Fig.
1).
(4) Remove the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the cotter pin and the hub nut from
the axle shaft (Fig. 2).
(6) Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from
the frame and steering knuckle if equipped.
(7) Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4
inch each (Fig. 3). Then tap the bolts with a hammer
to loosen the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle.
(8) Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts and
remove the hub/bearing.
(9) Remove the rotor assembly (Fig. 4), brake
shield and spacer from the steering knuckle.
RECEIVER CUP - 6761
BALLJOINT RECIEVER/INSTALLER KIT- 8975
Fig. 1 Hub Extension
1 - HUB EXTENSION
2 - HUB
Fig. 2 Hub Nut Cotter Pin
1 - HUB NUT
2 - COTTER PIN
Fig. 3 Hub/Bearing Mounting Bolts
1 - SOCKET AND EXTENSION
2 - ROTOR AND HUB
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 31
FRONT - LINK/COIL (Continued)
KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LEFT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket (Fig. 21).
(3) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
REMOVAL - RIGHT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the exhaust system at the mani-
folds.
(3) Disconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Support the transmission.
(5) Remove the transmission cross member.
(6) Lower the exhaust system down in order to
gain access to the removal of the upper bolt.(7) Remove the nut and bolt at the frame rail and
remove the upper suspension arm.
(8) Remove the upper suspension arm nut and bolt
at the axle bracket.
(9) Remove the suspension arm from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - LEFT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(4) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION - RIGHT
(1) Position the upper suspension arm at the axle
and frame rail.
(2) Install the bolts, then finger tighten the nuts.
(3) Reconnect the rubber exhaust mounts at the
muffler.
(4) Reconnect the exhaust at the manifolds.
(5) Install the transmission crossmember.
(6) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(7) Tighten nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m
(120 ft. lbs.). Tighten nut at frame bracket to 163
N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 21 Link/Coil Suspension
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SHOCK ABSORBER
3 - COIL SPRING
4 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
5 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
6 - TRACK BAR
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 37
REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................41
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................41
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................42
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................43INSTALLATION.........................43
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................44
OPERATION...........................44
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
DRREAR 2 - 41
HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................21CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to heed cau-
tion may result in damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking
grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A
torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer
joint which has allowed the grease to be lost will
damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or
a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment
may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(4) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(5) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(6) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(7) Disengage inner C/V joint from axle shaft with
two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle hous-
ing.
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - 20 HALF SHAFTDR
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(3) Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensors.
(4) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(5) Remove front propeller shaft.
(6) Remove stabilizer bar links at the axle brack-
ets (Fig. 1).
(7) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets
(Fig. 2).
(8) Remove track bar from the axle bracket (Fig.
3).
(9) Remove tie rod and drag link (Fig. 4) from the
steering knuckles.
(10) Position lift under the axle assembly and
secure axle to lift.
(11) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
Fig. 1 STABILIZER LINK
1 - PULLER C-3894-A
2 - LINK
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 57
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)