1998 DODGE RAM 1500 engine coolant

REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the master cylinder and booster assem-
bly. Refer to section 5 brakes.
(8) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VIS-
COUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(12) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
9).(13) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 11). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(14) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(15) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(16) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 10).
Fig. 9 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator Mark
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
Fig. 10 Using Special Tool 8515 to Hold Chains to
Idler Sprocket.
1 - LOCK ARM
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4)
4 - IDLER SPROCKET
5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
9 - 108 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

REMOVAL - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Disconnect battery negitive cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig. 13).
(12) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 14). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).(14) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 13 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Mark
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
Fig. 14 Camshaft Sprocket V8 Marks
1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
9 - 110 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and
install one oil pump retaining bolts.
(2) Position the primary timing chain tensioner
and install three retaining bolts.
(3) Tighten the oil pump and primary timing chain
tensioner retaining bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) in
the sequence shown (Fig. 107).
(4) Install the secondary timing chain tensioners
and timing chains (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the pick-up tube and oil pan (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite mate-
rial and features long runners which maximizes low
end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane
sealing which consist of eight individual press in
place port gaskets to prevent leaks. Eight studs and
two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐINTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect brake booster hose and positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(12) Remove fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
Fig. 107 Oil Pump And Primary Timing Chain
Tensioner Tightening Sequence
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 159
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 108).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEM-
PERATURE SENSO - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 109).
(19) Remove intake manifold.CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for the
intake manifold. If severe damage is found during
inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Position intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 109) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 108 Heater Hoses and Tubes Removal /
Installation
1 - HEATER HOSES AND TUBES
2 - ROUTING/RETAINING CLIPS
Fig. 109 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
9 - 160 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fas-
tener.(6) Drain coolant below heater hose level (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Remove heater hoses at engine.
(8) Remove fasteners attaching exhaust manifold
heat shield.
(9) Remove heat shield.
(10) Remove upper exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(11) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(12) Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
(13) Remove fasteners attaching starter. Move
starter aside.
(14) Remove lower exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(15) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig.
110). Manifold is removed from below the engine
compartment.
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 161

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(4) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(7) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner hose.
(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface
or replace, as necessary. Inspect
valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH TAILPIPE Exhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface
or replace, as necessary. Inspect
valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE FROM
ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings; cracked
piston; worn rings and/or cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 186 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL
(1) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIV-
ERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Remove the air cleaner resonator and duct
work as an assembly.
(4) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
9 - 190 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)