1997 JAGUAR XJ6 jump start terminals

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•6Roadside repairs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with
common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
manual, and repair information in the main chapters.
If your car won’t start
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn
MIf it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the
selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.
MOpen the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals
are clean and tight.
MSwitch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.
If your car won’t start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal
MIs there fuel in the tank?
MIs there moisture on electrical components under the
bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol
product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system
electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads.
Check the condition and security of the
battery connections.ACheck that the spark plug HT leads are
securely connected by pushing them onto
the plugs and distributorery connections.BCheck that the HT leads and wiring
connectors are securely connected to
the ignition coil.C
Check that the wiring connectors are
securely connected to the injectors and
various fuel system sensors and switches.D
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them
with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•15
Battery
Caution:Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
"Safety first" at the start of this manual.
4Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered
with a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5.
4If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.
The battery is located in the left-hand,
rear corner of the engine compartment.
Check the battery terminals for signs of
corrosion and examine the battery leads
closely for signs of damage.1Check the battery lead clamps for
tightness to ensure good electrical
connections.2
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small
wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores
sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .3. . . as well as the battery cable clamps4
Bulbs and fuses
4Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.4Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the
lights. The reflected light should show if
they are working properly.
If a single indicator light, stop light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced.
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop
lights have failed, it is possible that the switch
has failed (see Chapter 9).If more than one indicator light or tail light
has failed it is likely that either a fuse has
blown or that there is a fault in the circuit.
The fuseboxes are located behind the left and
right side kick panels and in the centre
console glove box (see Chapter 12).
2
To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out
and fit a new fuse of the correct rating
(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again,
it is important that you find out why - a
complete checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.31

never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and cable clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a rubber
protector, make sure it isn’t torn or damaged.
It should completely cover the terminal. Look
for any corroded or loose connections, cracks
in the case or cover or loose hold-down
clamps. Also check the entire length of each
cable for cracks and frayed conductors.
6If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits (see illustration)is evident,
particularly around the terminals, the battery
should be removed for cleaning. Loosen the
cable clamp bolts, being careful to remove the
ground cable first, and slide them off the
terminals (see illustration). Then disconnect
the hold-down clamp bolt and nut, remove the
clamp and lift the battery from the engine
compartment.
7Clean the cable clamps thoroughly with a
battery brush or a terminal cleaner and a
solution of warm water and baking soda (see
illustration). Wash the terminals and the top
of the battery case with the same solution but
make sure that the solution doesn’t get into
the battery. When cleaning the cables,
terminals and battery top, wear safety
goggles and rubber gloves to prevent any
solution from coming in contact with your
eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - evendiluted, sulphuric acid splashed onto clothes
will burn holes in them. If the terminals have
been extensively corroded, clean them up
with a terminal cleaner (see illustration).
Thoroughly wash all cleaned areas with plain
water.
8Make sure the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut is tight. If the battery is removed from the
tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom
of the tray when the battery is reinstalled.
When reinstalling the hold-down clamp bolt or
nut, do not over-tighten it.
9Information on removing and refitting the
battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information
on jump starting can be found at the front of
this manual.
Cleaning
10Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.
Charging
Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do notsmoke or allow open flames near a
charging or a recently charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the
charger.
12Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in the winter when the
battery must work harder to start the engine
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.
13It’s best to use a one or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to
restore the power of the battery in one to two
hours are hardest on the battery and can
damage batteries not in good condition. This
type of charging should only be used in
emergency situations.
14The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16
hours.
7 Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any indication
of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a
1•10Every 7500 miles or 6 months
6.6a Battery terminal corrosion usually
appears as light, fluffy powder6.6b Removing a cable from the battery
post with a spanner - sometimes special
battery pliers are required for this if
corrosion has damaged the nut hex
6.7a Remove all the corrosion from the
cable clamps (the inside of the clamp is
tapered to match the taper on the post, so
don’t remove too much material)6.7b Regardless of the type of tool used to
clean the battery posts, a clean, shiny
surface should be the result
3261 Jaguar XJ6
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white - or rust-coloured -
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts and the fan
assembly-to-drive hub nut to the torque listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Electric fans
Check
Warning: Keep your hands or
clothing away from the fan
blades at all times.
14On 1988 through 1992 models, a single
electric fan is mounted in front of the radiator,
controlled by a thermostatic switch. Access to
the fan is with the grille removed. The 1993
and 1994 models have a fan shroud assembly
that includes two electric fans, and a “twin”
thermostatic switch, with the assembly
mounted on the engine side of the radiator.
15If the electric fan does not come on at any
time, bypass the thermostatic switch by
disconnecting the electrical connector at the
switch and connecting the two pins with a
jumper wire (see illustration). If the fan now
operates, renew the thermostatic switch. If the
fan doesn’t operate, the problem is either the
fan relay or the fan motor. On 1993 and 1994
models with twin electric fans, jumpering one
set of connections in the plug from the switch
should make both fans operate at slow speed
(fans in series) and jumpering the other two
should run both fans at higher speed (fans in
parallel). In normal operation, the fans operate
at the higher-speed only when the air
conditioning is on, or when coolant
temperature exceeds 212° F. When the
coolant cools down to below 200° F, the fans
revert to the normal speed.
16To renew a defective thermostatic switch,
allow the vehicle to cool off and drain the
coolant (see Chapter 1). Remove the switch
from the radiator and refit the new switch.
Connect the electrical connector and test
again for proper fan operation.17To test an inoperative fan motor (one that
doesn’t come on when the engine gets hot or
when the air conditioner is on), first check the
fuses and/or fusible links (see Chapter 12).
Then disconnect the electrical connector at
the motor (refer to Chapter 11 for removal of
the grille for access on front-mounted-fan
models) and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery and to
chassis ground (see illustration). If the fan
still does not work, renew the fan motor.
Warning: Do not allow the test
clips to contact each other or
any metallic part of the vehicle.
18If the motor tested OK in the previous test
but is still inoperative, then the fault lies in the
relay, fuse, or wiring. The fan relay can be
tested for continuity (see Chapter 12).
Renewal
19Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.20Access the 1988 through 1992 single
electric fan with the grille removed (see
Chapter 11 for grille removal). Disconnect the
electrical connector and remove the bolts
holding the fan assembly to the body (see
illustration).
21On 1993 and 1994 models, remove the
two bolts holding the fan shroud to the top of
the radiator and lift the shroud/fans assembly
from the vehicle.
22If the fan on 1988 to 1992 models must be
renewed, renew the fan, motor and shroud as
a unit. The fan is separate from the shroud on
later models.
23Refitting is the reverse of removal. If the
thermostatic switch was renewed, refill the
cooling system.5 Radiator, expansion tank
and coolant reservoir-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Radiator
Removal
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant into a container (see
Chapter 1).
3Remove both the upper and lower radiator
hoses, and the small expansion tank hose from
the top left of the radiator (see illustration).
4Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see
Section 4).
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.20 Disconnect the fan’s electrical
connector (large arrow) and remove the
bolts (small arrows) on single-fan models -
grille is removed here
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.15 Disconnect the electrical connector (A) from the
thermostatic switch (B) in the radiator and bypass it with a
jumper wire (C) - the fan should operate now with the ignition on
4.17 Disconnect the fan wiring connector and connect jumper
wires from there directly to the positive and negative terminals of
the battery - the purple wire’s terminal should receive the battery
power and the black wire’s terminal should be earthed

8After the alternator is installed, adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
9Check the charging voltage to verify proper
operation of the alternator (see Section 11).
13 Starting system- general
information and precautions
The sole function of the starting system is
to crank the engine over quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, the
starter relay and the electrical circuit
connecting the components. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
The solenoid/starter motor assembly is
installed on the upper part of the engine, next
to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to the
START position, the starter solenoid is
actuated through the starter control circuit.
The starter solenoid then connects the battery
to the starter. The battery supplies the
electrical energy to the starter motor, which
does the actual work of cranking the engine.
The starter on a vehicle equipped with an
automatic transmission can be operated only
when the transmission selector lever is in Park
or Neutral.
These vehicles are equipped with either a
Bosch or Lucas starter assembly. The Lucas
unit is distinguished by the separate earth
strap from the solenoid to the starter body.
Bosch starter assemblies are equipped with a
solid metal earthing bar.
The starting system circuit is equipped with
a relay. The relay allows the ignition switch to
power the starter solenoid.
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor
can overheat it and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at
least two minutes.
b) The starter is connected directly to the
battery and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or short circuited.
c) Always detach the cable from the
negative terminal of the battery before
working on the starting system.
Caution:If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
14 Starter motor-
testing in vehicle
2
1Make sure that the battery is charged and
that all cables, both at the battery and starter
solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.2If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that the
shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic
transmission) or that the clutch pedal is
depressed (manual transmission).
3If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the
starter motor is slipping and the starter motor
must be renewed.
4If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard
when the switch is actuated, the battery is
bad, the in-line fuse is burned (the circuit is
open), the starter relay (see illustration)is
defective or the starter solenoid itself is
defective.
6To check the solenoid, connect a jumper
lead between the battery (+) and the ignition
switch terminal (the small terminal) on the
solenoid. If the starter motor now operates,
the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the
ignition switch, linear switch (1988 to 1992),
rotary switch (1993 and 1994) or in the wiring.
7If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove the starter/solenoid assembly for
dismantling, testing and repair.
8If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged and that all terminalconnections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then disconnect the
coil wire from the distributor cap and earth it
on the engine.
10Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the
battery positive post and connect the
negative lead to the negative post.
11Crank the engine and take the voltmeter
readings as soon as a steady figure is
indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A
reading of nine volts or more, with the starter
motor turning at normal cranking speed, is
normal. If the reading is nine volts or more but
the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty.
If the reading is less than nine volts and the
cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts
are probably burned, the starter motor is bad,
the battery is discharged or there is a bad
connection.
15 Starter motor-
removal and refitting
2
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely
using axle stands.
3Drain the transmission fluid (see Chapter 7)
and remove the transmission fluid filler tube
from the transmission.
4Detach the electrical connectors from the
starter/solenoid assembly (see illustrations).
5Place a trolley jack under the tail section of
the transmission, remove the rear trans-
mission mount (see Chapter 7) and lower the
transmission slightly to gain access to the
upper transmission bellhousing bolts. Using
an extension with a swivel socket, remove the
upper starter mounting bolt (see illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
14.5 With the ignition key ON (engine not
running), check for battery voltage to the
starter relay
15.4a Disconnect the solenoid electrical
connector at the harness connector
located near the bulkhead behind the
cylinder head (arrowed)15.4b From underneath the vehicle,
remove the battery terminal from the
solenoid (cylinder head removed
for clarity)
3261 Jaguar XJ6

8Adjustment should be made with the
vehicle parked 25 feet from the wall, sitting
level, the petrol tank half-full and no unusually
heavy load in the vehicle.
9Starting with the low beam adjustment,
position the high intensity zone so it is two
inches below the horizontal line and two
inches to the right of the headlight vertical
line. Adjustments are made by turning the
knobs located behind the headlight housings
(see illustration 18.2).
10With the high beams on, the high intensity
zone should be vertically centred with the
exact centre just below the horizontal line.
Note:It may not be possible to position the
headlight aim exactly for both high and low
beams. If a compromise must be made, keep
in mind that the low beams are the most used
and have the greatest effect on safety.
11Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer
service department or service station at the
earliest opportunity.
19 Headlight housing
(1992 to 1994 models)-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: These vehicles are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are under
pressure and may shatter if the
surface is damaged or the bulb is dropped.
Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs
carefully, grasping only the base whenever
possible. Do not touch the surface of the
bulb with your fingers because the oil from
your skin could cause it to overheat and
fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
1Remove the headlight bulb (Section 17).
2Remove the retaining nuts, detach the
housing and withdraw it from the vehicle (see
illustration).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
20 Horn- check and renewal
2
Check
Note:Check the fuses before beginning
electrical diagnosis.
1Disconnect the electrical connector from
the horn.
2To test the horn, connect battery voltage to
the two terminals with a pair of jumper wires.
If the horn doesn’t sound, renew it.
3If the horn does sound, check for voltage at
the terminal when the horn button is
depressed (see illustration). If there’s voltage
at the terminal, check for a bad earth at the
horn.
4If there’s no voltage at the horn, check the
relay (see Section 6). Note that most horn
relays are either the four-terminal or externally
earthed three-terminal type.
5If the relay is OK, check for voltage to the
relay power and control circuits. If either of the
circuits are not receiving voltage, inspect the
wiring between the relay and the fuse panel.
6If both relay circuits are receiving voltage,
depress the horn button and check the circuit
from the relay to the horn button for continuityto earth. If there’s no continuity, check the
circuit for an open. If the circuit is good, renew
the horn button.
7If there’s continuity to earth through the
horn button, check for an open or short in the
circuit from the relay to the horn.Renewal
8Remove the radiator grille inserts (see
Chapter 11).
9Disconnect the electrical connector and
remove the retaining nuts securing the horn
brackets (see illustration).
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
21 Bulb renewal
1
Front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker lights
1Remove the lens retaining screws and the
lens (see illustration).
2Push inward and rotate the bulb anti-
clockwise to remove it from the holder.
3Renew the bulb, refit the lamp lens and test
the bulb operation.
Body electrical system 12•11
12
20.9 Disconnect the electrical connector,
remove the retaining nuts (arrowed) - then
detach the horn(s)21.1 The front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker light bulbs are
accessible after removing the lens screws
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.2 Remove the headlight housing retaining nuts (arrowed) from
the backside of the radiator support
20.3 Check for power at the horn terminal with the horn button
depressed