1997 JAGUAR XJ6 fuse

blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
(to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment).
9With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click and the centre of
the clutch will rotate. After the system reaches
operating temperature, feel the two pipes
connected to the evaporator at the bulkhead
(see illustration).
10The pipe (thinner tubing) leading from the
condenser outlet to the evaporator should be
cold, and the evaporator outlet line (the
thicker tubing that leads back to the
compressor) should be slightly colder (3 to
10° F). If the evaporator outlet is considerably
warmer than the inlet, the system needs a
charge. Insert a thermometer in the centre air
distribution duct while operating the air
conditioning system - the temperature of the
output air should be 35 to 40° F below the
ambient air temperature (down to approxi-
mately 40° F). If the ambient (outside) air
temperature is very high, say 110° F, the duct
air temperature may be as high as 60° F, but
generally the air conditioning is 30 to 50° F
cooler than the ambient air. If the air isn’t as
cold as it used to be, the system probably
needs a charge. Further inspection or testing
of the system is beyond the scope of the
home mechanic and should be left to a
professional.
11Inspect the sight glass (see illustration).
If the refrigerant looks foamy when running,
it’s low. When ambient temperatures are very
hot, bubbles may show in the sight glass even
with the proper amount of refrigerant. With the
proper amount of refrigerant, when the air
conditioning is turned off, the sight glass
should show refrigerant that foams, then
clears. Note:1993 and 1994 models are
equipped with R-134a refrigerant systems and
do not have a sight glass.Heating systems
12If the air coming out of the heater vents
isn’t hot, the problem could stem from any of
the following causes:
a) The thermostat is stuck open, preventing
the engine coolant from warming up
enough to carry heat to the heater core.
Renew the thermostat (see Section 3).
b) A heater hose is blocked, preventing the
flow of coolant through the heater core.
Feel both heater hoses at the bulkhead.
They should be hot. If one of them is cold,
there is an obstruction in one of the hoses
or in the heater core, or the heater control
valve is shut. Detach the hoses and back
flush the heater core with a water hose. If
the heater core is clear but circulation is
impeded, remove the two hoses and flush
them out with a water hose.
c) If flushing fails to remove the blockage
from the heater core, the core must be
renewed.(see Section 11).
13If the blower motor speed does not
correspond to the setting selected on the
blower switch, the problem could be a badfuse, circuit, control panel or climate control
computer (see Sections 10 and 12).
14If there isn’t any air coming out of the
vents:
a) Turn the ignition ON and activate the fan
control. Place your ear at the heating/air
conditioning register (vent) and listen.
Most motors are audible. Can you hear
the motor running?
b) If you can’t (and have already verified that
the blower switch and the blower motor
resistor are good), the blower motor itself
is probably bad (see Section 10).
15If the carpet under the heater core is
damp, or if antifreeze vapour or steam is
coming through the vents, the heater core is
leaking. Remove it (see Section 11) and refit a
new unit (most radiator shops will not repair a
leaking heater core).
16Inspect the drain hose from the heat/AC
assembly at the right side of the bulkhead,
make sure it is not clogged (see illustration).
If there is a humid mist coming from the
system ducts, this hose may be plugged. In
some early models, the hose may have been
pinched during assembly or blocked with
insulation or underseal.
14 Air conditioning
receiver/drier-
removal and refitting
4
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/
recycling unit by a dealer service depart-
ment or an automotive air conditioning
3•12 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
13.16 This drain hose (arrowed) from the
heater/air conditioning unit should be kept
clear to allow drainage of condensation
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.9 Feel the inlet (small arrow) and outlet (large arrow) pipes at
the bulkhead leading to the air conditioning evaporator (battery
removed here for clarity only)
13.11 The sight glass (arrowed) is located on the top of the
receiver/drier, to the right of the radiator

of these sensors and their corresponding
ECU-controlled relays are not contained
within EFI components, but are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
relationship to the engine electrical and
ignition system, see Chapter 6.
12 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- check
2
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor grounds
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully
charged, as the control unit and sensors
depend on an accurate supply voltage in
order to properly meter the fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a shorted
wire in the harness related to the system.
5Check the air intake duct from the MAF
sensor to the intake manifold for leaks, which
will result in an excessively lean mixture. Also
check the condition of the vacuum hoses
connected to the intake manifold.
6Remove the air intake duct from the throttle
body and check for carbon and residue build-
up. If it’s dirty, clean with aerosol carburettor
cleaner (make sure the can says it’s safe for
use with oxygen sensors and catalytic
converters) and a toothbrush.
7With the engine running, place a
stethoscope against each injector, one at a
time, and listen for a clicking sound, indicating
operation (see illustration).8If there is a problem with an injector,
purchase a special injector test light (noid
light) and refit it into the injector electrical
connector (see illustration). Start the engine
and make sure that each injector connector
flashes the noid light. This will test for the
proper voltage signal to the injector.Caution:
If the engine will not start and the noid
light indicates that each injector is
receiving the proper signal, there is a good
possibility that the injector(s) is stuck open
and allowing fuel into the combustion
chamber in excessive amounts. If the spark
plugs are fouled, detach the primary (low
voltage) wires from the ignition coil, disable
the fuel pump by removing the fuel pump
relay (see Section 2), remove the spark plugs
and crank the engine over. If fuel sprays from
the spark plug holes, the engine is flooded
and the fuel must be removed from the
combustion chambers.
9With the engine OFF and the fuel injector
electrical connectors disconnected, measure
the resistance of each injector (see
illustration). Each injector should measure
about 2.0 to 3.0 ohms. If not, the injector is
probably faulty.10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a Jaguar service department
or other qualified repair workshop, as there is
a chance that the control unit may be
damaged if not performed properly.
13 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- component
check and renewal
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Throttle body
Check
1Verify that the throttle linkage operates
smoothly.
2Start the engine, detach each vacuum hose
and, using your finger, check the vacuum at
each port on the throttle body with the engine
at idle and above idle. The vacuum available
from the throttle body is ported. Raise the
engine rpm and watch as vacuum increases.
It may be necessary to use a vacuum gauge.
Refer to Chapter 2B for additional information
concerning vacuum checks.
Renewal
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
3Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery (see the Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
4Drain the radiator (see Chapter 1).
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
12.9 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance across both terminals
of the injector
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.7 Use a stethoscope or a screwdriver to determine if the
injectors are working properly - they should make a steady
clicking sound that rises and falls with engine speed changes
12.8 Refit the “noid” light into the fuel injector electrical
connector and check to see that it blinks with the engine running

3261 Jaguar XJ6
5
Chapter 5
Engine electrical systems
Ignition system
Ignition timing (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not adjustable
Ignition coil resistance (at 68°F):
Primary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 0.5 ohms
Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 k-ohms
Charging system
Charging voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.9 to 15.1 volts
Standard amperage:
No load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 10 amps
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 amps or more Amplifier - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Battery cables - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - emergency jump starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Charging system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Charging system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition coil - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Ignition system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ignition system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Spark plug lead, distributor cap and rotor check
and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Starter motor - testing in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Starter solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Starting system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 13
5•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
The engine electrical systems include all
ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from chassis electrical devices such as the
fuses, relays, lights, etc. (which are included in
Chapter 12).
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the electrical systems:
a) Be extremely careful when servicing
engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.
b) Never leave the ignition switch on for long
periods of time (10 minutes maximum)
with the engine off.c) Don’t disconnect the battery cables while
the engine is running.
d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting
a battery cable from another vehicle
during jump starting.
e) Always disconnect the negative cable first
and hook it up last or the battery may be
shorted by the tool being used to loosen
the cable clamps.
It’s also a good idea to review the safety-
related information regarding the engine
electrical systems in the Safety first section
near the front of this manual before beginning
any operation included in this Chapter.
2 Battery-
emergency jump starting
1
See “Jump starting”in “Roadside repairs”
at the front of this Manual.
3 Battery- removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the negative terminal, then the
positive terminal from the battery. On 1989 to
1992 models, the battery is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side
bulkhead and on 1993 and 1994 models, it is
located in the boot.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Remove the battery hold-down clamp.
3Lift out the battery. Be careful, it’s heavy.
4While the battery is out, inspect the carrier
(tray) for corrosion.
5If you are replacing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the

Refitting
7Insert the distributor into the engine in
exactly the same relationship to the block that
it was in when removed.
8If the distributor does not seat completely,
recheck the alignment marks between the
distributor base and the block to verify that
the distributor is in the same position it was in
before removal. Also check the rotor to see if
it’s aligned with the mark you made on the
edge of the distributor base.
9Refit the distributor hold-down bolt(s).
10The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
10 Charging system- general
information and precautions
The charging system includes the alternator,
an internal voltage regulator, a charge
indicator light, load dump module, the battery,
an ignition ON relay, an in-line fuse and the
wiring between all the components (see
illustration). The charging system supplies
electrical power for the ignition system, the
lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by
a drivebelt at the front of the engine.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to
limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.
This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,
etc., during peak voltage output.
The alternator load dump module protects
the electrical circuits from excessive voltage
surges. When the battery cables are removed
large amounts of transient voltage is released
through the electrical circuits. This device
diverts up to 30 load volts of excess voltage to
earth by way of a voltage dependent resistor.
The in-line fuse is a special fuse installed
into the circuit with the engine compartment
wiring harness (see Chapter 12). The in-line
fuse protects the electrical system in the
event of excess voltage surges or a power to
earth short circuit. Refer to Chapter 12 for
additional information concerning the in-line
fuses and their locations.
1993 and 1994 models have a Starter Logic
Relay. This microprocessor (computer)
gathers information from the ignition switch,
linear gear position switch, park/neutral
switch, the security switch and the electronic
door lock system. If all the conditions are in
order, the computer allows battery voltage to
be transferred from the ignition switch to the
starter/solenoid assembly.
The charging system doesn’t ordinarily
require periodic maintenance. However, the
drivebelt, battery and wires and connections
should be inspected at the intervals outlined
in Chapter 1.
The dashboard warning light should come
on when the ignition key is turned to Start,
then should go off immediately. If it remains
on, there is a malfunction in the charging
system. Some vehicles are also equipped with
a voltage gauge. If the voltage gaugeindicates abnormally high or low voltage,
check the charging system (see Section 11).
Be very careful when making electrical
circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with
an alternator and note the following:
a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator
from the battery, note their polarity.
b) Before using arc welding equipment to
repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the alternator and the
battery terminals.
c) Never start the engine with a battery
charger connected.
d) Always disconnect both battery leads
before using a battery charger.
e) The alternator is driven by an engine
drivebelt which could cause serious injury
if your hand, hair or clothes become
entangled in it with the engine running.
f) Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted out.
g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and
secure it with rubber bands before steam
cleaning the engine.
11 Charging system- check
2
Note:1993 and 1994 models are equipped
with a Starter Logic Relay. This microprocessor
(computer) gathers information from theignition switch, linear gear position switch,
park/neutral switch, the security switch and the
electronic door lock system. If all the conditions
are in order, the computer allows battery
voltage to be transferred from the ignition
switch to the starter/solenoid assembly. If all
the components of the charging system are
working properly and the system still does not
charge properly, have the Starter Logic Relay
diagnosed by a dealer service department.
1If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:
a) Check the drivebelt tension and its
condition. Renew it if worn or damaged.
b) Make sure the alternator mounting and
adjustment bolts are tight.
c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and
the electrical connectors at the alternator
and voltage regulator. They must be in
good condition and tight.
d) Check the fusible link (if equipped)
located between the starter solenoid and
the alternator or the large main fuses in
the engine compartment. If it’s burned,
determine the cause, repair the circuit
and renew the link or fuse (the vehicle
won’t start and/or the accessories won’t
work if the fusible link or fuse blows).
e) Check all the in-line fuses that are in series
with the charging system circuit (see
Chapter 12).The location of these fuses
and fusible links may vary from year and
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5
10.1 Schematic of a typical charging system
3261 Jaguar XJ6

8After the alternator is installed, adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
9Check the charging voltage to verify proper
operation of the alternator (see Section 11).
13 Starting system- general
information and precautions
The sole function of the starting system is
to crank the engine over quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, the
starter relay and the electrical circuit
connecting the components. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
The solenoid/starter motor assembly is
installed on the upper part of the engine, next
to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to the
START position, the starter solenoid is
actuated through the starter control circuit.
The starter solenoid then connects the battery
to the starter. The battery supplies the
electrical energy to the starter motor, which
does the actual work of cranking the engine.
The starter on a vehicle equipped with an
automatic transmission can be operated only
when the transmission selector lever is in Park
or Neutral.
These vehicles are equipped with either a
Bosch or Lucas starter assembly. The Lucas
unit is distinguished by the separate earth
strap from the solenoid to the starter body.
Bosch starter assemblies are equipped with a
solid metal earthing bar.
The starting system circuit is equipped with
a relay. The relay allows the ignition switch to
power the starter solenoid.
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor
can overheat it and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at
least two minutes.
b) The starter is connected directly to the
battery and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or short circuited.
c) Always detach the cable from the
negative terminal of the battery before
working on the starting system.
Caution:If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
14 Starter motor-
testing in vehicle
2
1Make sure that the battery is charged and
that all cables, both at the battery and starter
solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.2If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that the
shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic
transmission) or that the clutch pedal is
depressed (manual transmission).
3If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the
starter motor is slipping and the starter motor
must be renewed.
4If, when the switch is actuated, the starter
motor does not operate at all but the solenoid
clicks, then the problem lies with either the
battery, the main solenoid contacts or the
starter motor itself (or the engine is seized).
5If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard
when the switch is actuated, the battery is
bad, the in-line fuse is burned (the circuit is
open), the starter relay (see illustration)is
defective or the starter solenoid itself is
defective.
6To check the solenoid, connect a jumper
lead between the battery (+) and the ignition
switch terminal (the small terminal) on the
solenoid. If the starter motor now operates,
the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the
ignition switch, linear switch (1988 to 1992),
rotary switch (1993 and 1994) or in the wiring.
7If the starter motor still does not operate,
remove the starter/solenoid assembly for
dismantling, testing and repair.
8If the starter motor cranks the engine at an
abnormally slow speed, first make sure that
the battery is charged and that all terminalconnections are tight. If the engine is partially
seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it
will crank slowly.
9Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then disconnect the
coil wire from the distributor cap and earth it
on the engine.
10Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the
battery positive post and connect the
negative lead to the negative post.
11Crank the engine and take the voltmeter
readings as soon as a steady figure is
indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A
reading of nine volts or more, with the starter
motor turning at normal cranking speed, is
normal. If the reading is nine volts or more but
the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty.
If the reading is less than nine volts and the
cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts
are probably burned, the starter motor is bad,
the battery is discharged or there is a bad
connection.
15 Starter motor-
removal and refitting
2
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely
using axle stands.
3Drain the transmission fluid (see Chapter 7)
and remove the transmission fluid filler tube
from the transmission.
4Detach the electrical connectors from the
starter/solenoid assembly (see illustrations).
5Place a trolley jack under the tail section of
the transmission, remove the rear trans-
mission mount (see Chapter 7) and lower the
transmission slightly to gain access to the
upper transmission bellhousing bolts. Using
an extension with a swivel socket, remove the
upper starter mounting bolt (see illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
14.5 With the ignition key ON (engine not
running), check for battery voltage to the
starter relay
15.4a Disconnect the solenoid electrical
connector at the harness connector
located near the bulkhead behind the
cylinder head (arrowed)15.4b From underneath the vehicle,
remove the battery terminal from the
solenoid (cylinder head removed
for clarity)
3261 Jaguar XJ6

Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking performance.
2 Anti-lock Brake system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Brake System is designed to
maintain vehicle steerability, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main units - the
wheel speed sensors, the electronic control unit
and the modulator (hydraulic control unit). The
sensors - one at each wheel - send a variable
voltage signal to the electronic control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program and determines whether a wheel
is about to lock up. When a wheel is about to
lock up, the control unit signals the hydraulic
unit to reduce hydraulic pressure (or not
increase it further) at that wheel’s brake caliper.
Pressure modulation is handled by three
electrically-operated solenoid valves - one for
each front wheel and one for the rear wheels -
inside the modulator.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the dashboard.
Sometimes, a visual inspection of the ABS
system can help you locate the problem.
Carefully inspect the ABS wiring harness. Pay
particularly close attention to the harness and
connections near each wheel. Look for signs of
chafing and other damage caused by
incorrectly routed wires. If a wheel sensor
harness is damaged, the sensor should be
replaced (the harness and sensor are integral).
Warning: Do NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even thesmallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values
and cause the system to malfunction. If the
ABS wiring harness is damaged in any way,
it must be replaced.
Caution: Make sure the ignition is turned
off before unplugging or reattaching any
electrical connections.
Diagnosis and repair
If a dashboard warning light comes on and
stays on while the vehicle is in operation, the
ABS system requires attention. Although
special electronic ABS diagnostic testing tools
are necessary to properly diagnose the system,
you can perform a few preliminary checks
before taking the vehicle to a dealer service
department or other qualified repair workshop.
a) Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder reservoir.
b) Verify that all ABS system electrical
connectors in the engine compartment
are plugged in.
c) Check the fuses.
d) Follow the wiring harness to each front
wheel and to the differential sensor and
verify that all connections are secure and
that the wiring is undamaged.
If the above preliminary checks do not
rectify the problem, the vehicle should be
diagnosed by a dealer service department.
Due to the complex nature of this system, all
actual repair work must be done by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop.
3 Disc brake pads- renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be replaced on both front wheels
or both rear wheels at the same
time - never renew the pads on
only one wheel. Also, the dust created by
the brake system may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health. Never blow
it out with compressed air and don’t inhale
any of it. An approved filtering mask should
be worn when working on the brakes. Do
not, under any circumstances, use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts. Use brake system cleaner only!
Note:The following procedure applies to both
the front and rear brake pads.
1Remove the cap from the brake fluid
reservoir and siphon off about two-thirds of
the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do this
could result in fluid overflowing when the
caliper pistons are pressed into their bores.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheels. Work on one
brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
4Inspect the brake disc (see Section 5).
5Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 3.5a, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order
and read the caption under each illustration.
9•2 Braking system
3.5a Before starting, wash down the
caliper and disc with brake cleaner
3.5b Attach a hose to the bleed screw,
open the bleed screw slightly and depress
the piston into the caliper. Tighten the
bleed screw when the piston bottoms
3.5c Remove the caliper mounting bolts
(upper bolt arrowed); use another spanner
to hold the flats of the caliper guide pins
while you back out the caliper bolts3.5d Remove the caliper . . .3.5e . . . and suspend it out of the way
with a piece of wire
3261 Jaguar XJ6

at a time, so you can use the other side as a
reference during reassembly.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two nuts,
turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.7c)and
expand the shoes until the disc locks, then
back off the adjuster until you can spin the
disc without the shoes dragging.
8Adjust the handbrake cable (Section 10).
9Remove the axle stands and lower the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 1 Specifications).
13 Brake light switch-
check and renewal
1
1The brake light switch activates the brake
lights when the brake pedal is depressed. It‘s
located at the top of the brake pedal, inside
the pedal box.
2If the brake lights don’t come on when the
brake pedal is depressed, check the fuses
(the fuse for the left brake light is in the left
fuse panel and the fuse for the right brake
light is in the right panel).
3If the fuses are okay, check the brake light
bulbs (see Chapter 12).
4If the fuses and bulbs are okay, either the
switch isn’t getting voltage (there’s an open-
circuit between the voltage source and the
switch), voltage isn’t reaching the brake light
Braking system 9•13
9
12.5j Place the front shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe . . .12.5k . . . and refit the hold-down spring
and washers12.5i Lubricate the six friction points
(two arrowed) on the backing plate with
high-temperature brake grease
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.5l Hook the lower return spring into its
hole in the front shoe . . .
12.5m . . . hook the other end of the
lower spring into the rear shoe . . .12.5n . . . stretch the spring over the top of
the handbrake lever box . . .
12.5o . . . place the rear shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe and refit the rear washers
and hold-down spring12.5p Hook the upper return spring into
the front shoe . . .
12.5q . . . and into the rear shoe12.5r Pull the shoes apart and refit the
adjuster mechanism

3261 Jaguar XJ6
12
Chapter 12
Body electrical system
1 General information
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid-type battery which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor will be found in
Chapter 5.
It should be noted that when portions of the
electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the negative
battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts
and/or fires.
2 Electrical fault finding-
general information
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links, in-line fuses or
circuit breakers related to that component
and the wiring and electrical connectors that
link the component to both the battery andthe chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical
circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included
at the end of this Chapter.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time,
chances are the problem is in a fuse or earth
connection, because several circuits are often
routed through the same fuse and earth
connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the
condition of all fuses, wires and connections
in a problem circuit before diagnosing it.
If testing instruments are going to be
utilised, use the diagrams to plan ahead of
time where you will make the necessary
connections in order to accurately pinpoint
the trouble spot.
The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, which includes a
bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a
jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
incorporated, which can be used to bypasselectrical components. Before attempting to
locate a problem with test instruments,
use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to
make the connections.
Voltage checks
Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a electrical
connector in the circuit being tested,
preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the
bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present,
which means that the part of the circuit
between the electrical connector and the
battery is problem free. Continue checking the
rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When
you reach a point at which no voltage is
present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time the problem can be traced to a loose
connection. Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is in the Accessory or Run position.
Finding a short
One method of finding shorts in a circuit is
to remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring
harness from side to side while watching the
test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short Airbag system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Circuit breakers - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Direction indicators/hazard flashers - general information . . . . . . . . 7
Electric aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electric side view mirrors - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Electric sunroof - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Electric window system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel, oil and temperature gauges - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing (1992 to 1994 models) - removal and refitting . . . 19Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlights - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Horn - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Inertia switch - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
In-line fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio and speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Relays - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
12•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321