1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Workshop Manual

sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Pry off the centre pad (see illustration).
3Remove the steering wheel nut and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4Slide the steering wheel off the steering
shaft (see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the match marks you made on
the steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
15 Tie-rod ends-
removal and refitting
2
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheel.
2Back off the locknut that locks the tie-rod
end to the tie-rod, then paint an alignment
mark on the threads to ensure the new tie-rod
end is installed in the same position (see
illustration).
3Loosen the nut on the tie-rod ball stud, then
fit a small puller and pop the ball stud loose
(see illustration). Remove the nut and
separate the ball stud from the steering
knuckle. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-
rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you thread the tie-rod end all the way up
to the mark on the threads, but no further.
Tighten the ball stud nut to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the
locknut securely.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
alignment workshop.
16 Steering gear boots- renewal
2
1Remove the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots (see illustration)and slide off the
boots.3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’re
leaking, have them replaced by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop, or replace the steering gear with a
new or rebuilt unit (see Section 17).
4Slide the new boots into place and refit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
10
14.4 To remove the steering wheel,
simply pull it straight off15.2 Back off this locknut and mark the
threads to ensure that the new tie-rod end
is installed properly
15.3 Loosen the ball stud nut, fit a small
puller and pop the ball stud loose from the
steering knuckle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 14.2 To remove the centre pad from the steering wheel,
simply pry it off
14.3 After removing the steering wheel nut, make a pair of
alignment marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft to
ensure proper reassembly
16.2 Cut off the boot clamps (arrowed)
and slide the boot off the steering gear

17 Steering gear-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: On models with an
airbag, do not apply excessive
force or severe shock to the
steering column shaft, or
accidental deployment of the airbag could
occur.
1Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheels.
3Mark the relationship of the steering shaft
U-joint to the steering gear pinion shaft (see
illustration)to ensure proper alignment when
they’re reassembled. Remove the nut and bolt
that clamp the U-joint to the pinion shaft.
4Disconnect the power steering pressure
and return lines from the steering gear. Place
a container under the lines to catch spilledfluid. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid
loss and contamination. Discard the sealing
washers (new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the
steering knuckle arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the steering
gear mounting brackets (see illustration).
7Remove the steering gear assembly,
detaching the U-joint as you lower it. Don’t
damage the steering gear dust boots.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Ensure the
marks you made on the U-joint and the pinion
shaft are aligned before you tighten the U-joint
clamp bolt and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts,
the tie-rod end nuts and the U-joint shaft
clamping bolts to the specified torque.
9After lowering the vehicle, fill the reservoir
with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1).
10Bleed the power steering system (see
Section 19).
11Have the front wheels aligned by a dealer
service department or alignment workshop
after reassembly.
18 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine under-cover.
2Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the top of the pump
(see illustration)and drain the power steering
fluid from the reservoir into a clean container.
Unscrew the pressure line fitting from the
back of the pump. Plug the return hose and
the pressure line to prevent fluid from leaking
and to protect the power steering system
from contamination.
3Remove the bolts (see illustration)that
attach the power steering pump adapter to
the auxiliary shaft housing.
4Remove the power steering pump and
adapter.
5Take the power steering pump and adapter
to a Jaguar dealer service department and
have the adapter removed from the old pump
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
18.2 Disconnect the steering fluid return hose from the upper
pipe (arrowed) and disconnect the pressure line
from the back of the pump18.3 To detach the pump adapter from the auxiliary shaft
housing, remove these bolts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 17.3 Mark the relationship of the steering shaft U-joint to the
steering gear pinion shaft, then unscrew the pressure and return
line fittings (arrowed) - plug the lines to prevent contamination
from entering the system
17.6 To detach the steering gear from the vehicle, remove these
nuts and bolts (arrowed) from the mounting brackets (right
bracket shown, left bracket similar)

and installed on a new or rebuilt pump. (This
procedure requires special tools, and the
height of the driven coupling on the shaft
must be set with a depth gauge.)
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Study
the accompanying photos carefully before
reattaching the adapter to the auxiliary shaft
housing (see illustrations). Be sure to tighten
the fasteners securely.
7Top up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
“Weekly checks” for vehicles with a separate
power steering system, or Chapter 1 for
vehicles with a power hydraulic system) and
bleed the system (Section 19).
19 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see “Weekly checks”
or Chapter 1, dependent on system fitted).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times and recheck the fluid level.
4Start the engine. Turn the steering wheel
from lock-to-lock again (three or four times)
and recheck the fluid level one more time.
5Lower the car to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Set the wheels
straight ahead and recheck the fluid level.
20 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel belted radial tyres. Use ofother size or type of tyres may affect the ride
and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix
different types of tyres, such as radials and
bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be replaced in pairs on the same
axle, but if only one tyre is being replaced, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be replaced if they are bent,
dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes,
are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or
if the wheel nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel
repairs that use welding or peening are not
recommended.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics as well
as tyre life. Whenever a tyre is installed on a
wheel, the tyre and wheel should be balanced
by a workshop with the proper equipment.
21 Wheel alignment-
general information
A wheel alignment refers to the adjustments
made to the wheels so they are in proper
angular relationship to the suspension and the
ground. Wheels that are out of proper
alignment not only affect vehicle control, but
also increase tyre wear. The alignment angles
normally measured are camber, caster and
toe-in (see illustration). Front-wheel toe-in and
caster are adjustable; camber is not adjustable.
Suspension and steering systems 10•11
10
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.6a This driven coupling is the reason
you can’t remove the adapter from the
pump at home; this requires special tools,
and the coupling must be installed on the
shaft of the new or rebuilt pump at a very
precise height - if you try to pry off the
coupling, you will damage it
18.6b The coupling disc fits onto the
driven coupling on the pump side . . .18.6c . . . and on the drive coupling on the
auxiliary shaft side; note that the two lugs on
each drive coupling fit into their
corresponding slots in the coupling disc,
180° apart - all four lugs must be properly
engaged or you won’t be able to bolt the
adapter to the auxiliary shaft housing
21.1 Front end alignment details
A minus B = C (degrees camber)
E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches)
G - toe-in (expressed in degrees)

None of these three angles are adjustable on
the rear wheels. Even the non-adjustable
angles should be checked to determine if any
of the suspension components are bent.
Getting the proper wheel alignment is a
very exacting process, one in which
complicated and expensive machines are
necessary to perform the job properly.
Because of this, you should have a technician
with the proper equipment perform these
tasks. We will, however, use this space to give
you a basic idea of what is involved with a
wheel alignment so you can better understand
the process and deal intelligently with the
workshop that does the work.Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels. The
purpose of a toe specification is to ensure
parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with
zero toe-in, the distance between the front
edges of the wheels will be the same as the
distance between the rear edges of the
wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is
normally only a fraction of an inch. Toe-in is
controlled by the tie-rod end position on the
tie-rod. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tyres to
wear improperly by making them scrub
against the road surface.
Camber is the tilting of the wheels from
vertical when viewed from one end of the
vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When
the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in
degrees from vertical and this measurement is
called the camber angle. This angle affects the
amount of tyre tread which contacts the road
and compensates for changes in the suspension
geometry when the vehicle is cornering or
travelling over an undulating surface.
Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis
from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear is
positive caster and a tilt toward the front is
negative caster. Caster is adjusted by moving
shims from one side of the upper control arm
balljoint to the other.
10•12 Suspension and steering systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
11
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet and boot lid support struts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Bonnet release latch and cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Boot lid latch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cowl cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Dashboard trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . 20
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Door window glass regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Outside mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Steering column cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Vinyl trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Windscreen and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
11•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
These models feature a “unibody”
construction, using a floor pan with front and
rear frame side rails which support the body
components, front and rear suspension
systems and other mechanical components.
Certain components are particularly vulnerable
to accident damage and can be unbolted and
repaired or replaced. Among these parts are
the body mouldings, bumpers, front wings,
bonnet and boot lids and all glass.
Only general body maintenance practices
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Body- maintenance
1
1The condition of your vehicle’s body is very
important, because the resale value depends
a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to
repair a neglected or damaged body than it is
to repair mechanical components. The hidden
areas of the body, such as the wheel wells,
the frame and the engine compartment, areequally important, although they don’t require
as frequent attention as the rest of the body.
2Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a
good idea to have the underside of the body
steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected
carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed
electrical wires, damaged cables and other
problems. The front suspension components
should be greased after completion of this job.
3At the same time, clean the engine and the
engine compartment with a steam cleaner or
water soluble degreaser.
4The wheel wells should be given close
attention, since undercoating can peel away
and stones and dirt thrown up by the tyres
can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing
rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to
the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.
5The body should be washed about once a
week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the
dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and
plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt
is not washed off very carefully, it can wear
down the paint.
6Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the
road should be removed with a cloth soaked
in solvent.
7Once every six months, wax the body and
chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to
remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated
parts, remember that the cleaner also removes
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.
3 Vinyl trim- maintenance
1
Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,
caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.
Plain soap and water works just fine, with a
soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.
Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the
vehicle.
After cleaning, application of a high quality
rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent
oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also
be applied to weather-stripping, vacuum lines
and rubber hoses (which often fail as a result
of chemical degradation) and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
1Every three months remove the carpets or
mats and clean the interior of the vehicle
(more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the
upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt
and dust.
2Leather upholstery requires special care.
Stains should be removed with warm water
and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean,
damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe

again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol,
petrol, nail polish remover or thinner to clean
leather upholstery.
3After cleaning, regularly treat leather
upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car
wax on leather upholstery.
4In areas where the interior of the vehicle is
subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats
with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for
any length of time.
5 Body repair- minor damage
3
Repair of minor scratches
1If the scratch is superficial and does not
penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area
with a fine rubbing compound to remove
loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area
with clean water.
2Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a
small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of
paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then blend it into the surrounding
paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing
compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the
scratch area.
3If the scratch has penetrated the paint and
exposed the metal of the body, causing the
metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove all loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,
then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area
with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can
be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin
paste, which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch
hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth
around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in
thinner and then quickly wipe it along the
surface of the scratch. This will ensure that
the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this section.
Repair of dents
4When repairing dents, the first job is to pull
the dent out until the affected area is as close
as possible to its original shape. There is no
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
restored to its original contours. It is better to
bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8-inch below the level of the
surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is
very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out
at all.
5If the back side of the dent is accessible, it
can be hammered out gently from behindusing a soft-face hammer. While doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the
opposite side of the metal to absorb the
hammer blows and prevent the metal from
being stretched.
6If the dent is in a section of the body which
has double layers, or some other factor makes
it inaccessible from behind, a different
technique is required. Drill several small holes
through the metal inside the damaged area,
particularly in the deeper sections. Screw
long, self-tapping screws into the holes just
enough for them to get a good grip in the
metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws
with locking pliers.
7The next stage of repair is the removal of
paint from the damaged area and from an
inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is
done with a wire brush or sanding disc in a
drill motor, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand with sandpaper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or drill small holes in the
affected area. This will provide a good grip
for the filler material. To complete the repair,
see the subsection on filling and painting later
in this Section.
Repair of rust holes or gashes
8Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding metal
using a sanding disc or wire brush mounted in
a drill motor. If these are not available, a few
sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as
effectively.
9With the paint removed, you will be able to
determine the severity of the corrosion and
decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
possible, or repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think and it is often quicker to refit a
new panel than to repair large areas of rust.
10Remove all trim pieces from the affected
area except those which will act as a guide to
the original shape of the damaged body, such
as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal that is badly affected by rust.
Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a
slight depression for the filler material.
11Wire brush the affected area to remove
the powdery rust from the surface of the
metal. If the back of the rusted area is
accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.
12Before filling is done, block the hole in
some way. This can be done with sheet metal
riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing
the hole with wire mesh.
13Once the hole is blocked off, the affected
area can be filled and painted. See the
following subsection on filling and painting.
Filling and painting
14Many types of body fillers are available,
but generally speaking, body repair kits which
contain filler paste and a tube of resinhardener are best for this type of repair work.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be necessary for imparting a smooth and
contoured finish to the surface of the filler
material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a
clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the
hardener sparingly). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on the package,
otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.
15Using the applicator, apply the filler paste
to the prepared area. Draw the applicator
across the surface of the filler to achieve the
desired contour and to level the filler surface.
As soon as a contour that approximates the
original one is achieved, stop working the
paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to
stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the
level of the filler is just above the surrounding
metal.
16Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed with a body file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper
and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat
rubber or wooden block, otherwise the
surface of the filler will not be completely flat.
During the sanding of the filler surface, the
wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed
in water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is produced in the final stage.
17At this point, the repair area should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair
area with clean water until all of the dust
produced by the sanding operation is gone.
18Spray the entire area with a light coat of
primer. This will reveal any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair the
imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze
filler and once more smooth the surface with
sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair
procedure until you are satisfied that the
surface of the filler and the feathered edge of
the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with
clean water and allow it to dry completely.
19The repair area is now ready for painting.
Spray painting must be carried out in a warm,
dry, windless and dust free atmosphere.
These conditions can be created if you have
access to a large indoor work area, but if you
are forced to work in the open, you will have
to pick the day very carefully. If you are
working indoors, dousing the floor in the work
area with water will help settle the dust which
would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area
is confined to one body panel, mask off the
surrounding panels. This will help minimise
the effects of a slight mismatch in paint
colour. Trim pieces such as chrome strips,
door handles, etc., will also need to be
masked off or removed. Use masking tape
and several thickness of newspaper for the
masking operations.
20Before spraying, shake the paint can
thoroughly, then spray a test area until the
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The
thickness should be built up using several thin
layers of primer rather than one thick one.
Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is very
smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before
spraying additional coats.
21Spray on the top coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair
area and then, using a side-to-side motion,
work down until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking material
10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final
coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing
compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a
coat of wax.
6 Body repair- major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by an auto
body workshop specifically equipped to
perform unibody repairs. These workshops
have the specialised equipment required to
do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the body must
be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that most of the major body
components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are
separate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes thecomponents can be found in a scrapyard that
specialises in used vehicle components, often
at considerable savings over the cost of new
parts.
7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Once every 3000 miles, or every three
months, the hinges and latch assemblies on
the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and
ensure free movement. Lubricate the door
and boot locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.
8 Windscreen and fixed glass-
replacement
5
Replacement of the windscreen and fixed
glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some
specialised tools. It is recommended that
these operations be left to a dealer or a
workshop specialising in glass work.
9 Bonnet and boot lid support
struts- removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it
securely.
2Using a small screwdriver, detach the
retaining clips at both ends of the support
strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from
the vehicle(see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Use blankets or pads to cover the wings
and the area in front of the bonnet. This will
protect the body and paint as the bonnet is
lifted off.
2Make marks or scribe a line around the
bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment
during refitting.
3Disconnect any cables or wires that will
interfere with removal.
4Have an assistant support the bonnet.
Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts
(see illustration).
5Lift off the bonnet.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
7Before the bonnet can be adjusted
properly, both bonnet striker assemblies
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
1110.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts
(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift
off the bonnet
3261 Jaguar XJ69.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin
to detach it from the locating stud
9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking
groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

which are located on the inside of the bonnet
must first be loosened to allow correct
alignment of the bonnet.
8Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment
of the bonnet is done by moving the bonnet in
relation to the hinge plates after loosening the
bolts.
9Scribe or trace a line around the entire
hinge plate to judge the amount of movement.
10Loosen the nuts or bolts and move the
bonnet into correct alignment. Move it only a
little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts
and carefully lower the bonnet to check the
alignment.
11After the bonnet has been aligned
properly with the cowl and front wings, the
height and position of the bonnet striker
assembly should be adjusted to provide
positive engagement with the latch assembly
(see illustration).
12Adjust the bonnet bumpers on the wings
so the bonnet is flush with the wings when
closed (see illustration).13The bonnet latch assembly, as well as the
hinges, should be lubricated with white lithium-
base grease to prevent sticking and wear.
11 Bonnet release latch and
cable- removal and refitting
2
Latch
1Disconnect the bonnet release cables by
removing the cable retaining bolts and
disengaging the cable from the latch
assembly.(see illustration).
2Scribe a line around the latches to aid
alignment when refitting, then detach the
retaining bolts from the inner footwell (see
illustration)and remove the latch.
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Cable
4Disconnect the bonnet release cable as
described in (Section 11).5Detach all cable retaining clips located in
the engine compartment.
6Working in the passenger compartment,
remove the driver’s side kick panel surrounding
the bonnet release lever. Pull the release lever
forward and detach the release cables from the
handle and bracket assembly (see illustration).11.6 Remove the driver’s side kick panel
to access the bonnet release cables from
the passenger compartment
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.11 Adjust the position of the bonnet striker by loosening the
locknut (A), then adjust the height of the bonnet striker (B) by
turning it in or out with a screwdriver
10.12 Remove the rubber bumper then loosen the locknut (A) -
adjust the bonnet bumper bolt (B) in or out so the bonnet is flush
with the wings in the closed position
11.1 Remove the cable retaining bolt(s) (arrowed) then disengage
the cable from the latch assembly11.2 Bonnet latch retaining bolts (arrowed) are located on both
sides of the engine compartment