1997 JAGUAR XJ6 oil

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)

5The shock/coil spring assemblies must be
dismantled, and the coil springs installed on
the new shocks. Although the shock/coil
spring assembly is similar in appearance to
the a MacPherson strut/coil spring assembly,
the spring on this unit is much stiffer.
Therefore, DO NOT attempt to take apart this
unit yourself with a strut spring compressor
tool. Instead, take the unit to a Jaguar dealer
service department or to a Jaguar specialist
workshop and have the springs installed on
the new shocks by professionals.6If you are retrofitting conventional shocks -
rather than refitting the same or another pair
of self-levelling shocks - unplug the electrical
connector at the ride height sensor, and fill
the connector with silicone (see illustration)
to prevent it from shorting out and causing
electrical problems. Then disconnect and
remove all hydraulic lines (see illustrations).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Remove the jack supporting the controlarm, refit the rear wheels and lower the
vehicle.
9Tighten the rear wheel nuts to the torque
listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
10If you retrofitted conventional shocks to a
vehicle formerly equipped with the self-
levelling rear suspension system, disconnect
the forward end of the hydraulic line from the
valve block and refit the plug included in the
kit (see illustrations). Then finish removing
the forward section of hydraulic line and the
brackets for the line (see illustration).
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
10.6a Where applicable, unplug the
connector to the ride height sensor and fill
the connector with silicone . . .10.6b . . . then disconnect and remove
both valve blocks . . .10.6c . . . and remove all associated
plumbing, including the metal line (arrow) to
the valve block in the engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.3 To detach the bottom of the shock absorber/coil spring from
the control arm, remove this nut and bolt, then pull out the bolt
10.4 To detach the top of the shock absorber/coil spring from the
body, remove these bolts (arrowed) - not all bolts are visible here
10.10a After the vehicle has been lowered,
disconnect the forward end of the
hydraulic line from the valve block . . .10.10b . . . refit the plug included in the
retrofit kit . . .10.10c . . . then remove these bracket
screws (arrowed), the brackets and the
forward section of hydraulic line

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

3261 Jaguar XJ6
11
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Body - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bonnet and boot lid support struts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Bonnet release latch and cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Boot lid latch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cowl cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Dashboard trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . 20
Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Door window glass regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Outside mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Steering column cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Vinyl trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Windscreen and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
11•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
These models feature a “unibody”
construction, using a floor pan with front and
rear frame side rails which support the body
components, front and rear suspension
systems and other mechanical components.
Certain components are particularly vulnerable
to accident damage and can be unbolted and
repaired or replaced. Among these parts are
the body mouldings, bumpers, front wings,
bonnet and boot lids and all glass.
Only general body maintenance practices
and body panel repair procedures within the
scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in
this Chapter.
2 Body- maintenance
1
1The condition of your vehicle’s body is very
important, because the resale value depends
a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to
repair a neglected or damaged body than it is
to repair mechanical components. The hidden
areas of the body, such as the wheel wells,
the frame and the engine compartment, areequally important, although they don’t require
as frequent attention as the rest of the body.
2Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a
good idea to have the underside of the body
steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected
carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed
electrical wires, damaged cables and other
problems. The front suspension components
should be greased after completion of this job.
3At the same time, clean the engine and the
engine compartment with a steam cleaner or
water soluble degreaser.
4The wheel wells should be given close
attention, since undercoating can peel away
and stones and dirt thrown up by the tyres
can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing
rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to
the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.
5The body should be washed about once a
week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the
dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and
plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt
is not washed off very carefully, it can wear
down the paint.
6Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the
road should be removed with a cloth soaked
in solvent.
7Once every six months, wax the body and
chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to
remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated
parts, remember that the cleaner also removes
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.
3 Vinyl trim- maintenance
1
Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,
caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.
Plain soap and water works just fine, with a
soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.
Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the
vehicle.
After cleaning, application of a high quality
rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent
oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also
be applied to weather-stripping, vacuum lines
and rubber hoses (which often fail as a result
of chemical degradation) and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
1Every three months remove the carpets or
mats and clean the interior of the vehicle
(more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the
upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt
and dust.
2Leather upholstery requires special care.
Stains should be removed with warm water
and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean,
damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The
thickness should be built up using several thin
layers of primer rather than one thick one.
Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is very
smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before
spraying additional coats.
21Spray on the top coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair
area and then, using a side-to-side motion,
work down until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking material
10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final
coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing
compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a
coat of wax.
6 Body repair- major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by an auto
body workshop specifically equipped to
perform unibody repairs. These workshops
have the specialised equipment required to
do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the body must
be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that most of the major body
components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are
separate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes thecomponents can be found in a scrapyard that
specialises in used vehicle components, often
at considerable savings over the cost of new
parts.
7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Once every 3000 miles, or every three
months, the hinges and latch assemblies on
the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and
ensure free movement. Lubricate the door
and boot locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.
8 Windscreen and fixed glass-
replacement
5
Replacement of the windscreen and fixed
glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some
specialised tools. It is recommended that
these operations be left to a dealer or a
workshop specialising in glass work.
9 Bonnet and boot lid support
struts- removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it
securely.
2Using a small screwdriver, detach the
retaining clips at both ends of the support
strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from
the vehicle(see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Use blankets or pads to cover the wings
and the area in front of the bonnet. This will
protect the body and paint as the bonnet is
lifted off.
2Make marks or scribe a line around the
bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment
during refitting.
3Disconnect any cables or wires that will
interfere with removal.
4Have an assistant support the bonnet.
Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts
(see illustration).
5Lift off the bonnet.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
7Before the bonnet can be adjusted
properly, both bonnet striker assemblies
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
1110.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts
(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift
off the bonnet
3261 Jaguar XJ69.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin
to detach it from the locating stud
9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking
groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

7Attach a piece of thin wire or string to the
end of the cables to help aid the refitting
process.
8Working in the engine compartment, pull
the cables and grommet out of the bulkhead
until you can see the wire or string. Ensure
that the new cable has a grommet attached
then remove the old cable from the wire or
string and replace it with the new cable.
9Working from passenger compartment pull
the wire or string back through the bulkhead.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.Note:
Push on the grommet with your fingers from
the engine compartment to seat the grommet
in the bulkhead.
12 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
1Using a Phillips screwdriver, detach the
right and left hand grille inserts from the grille
assembly (see illustration).Note: The grille
can be removed without removing the inserts,
but reaching the mounting screws from above
is quite difficult.
2Working through the grille insert openings,
remove the retaining screws securing both
ends of the grille frame (see illustration).
3Pull the grille frame forward and remove it
from the vehicle.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal.
13 Front spoiler-
removal and refitting
1
1Working on the left side of the vehicle,
remove the front spoiler lower cover (see
illustration).
2Remove the screws securing the front air
dam panels in the left and right wheel
openings (see illustration), then detach the
air dam panels from the vehicle. Note:It will
probably be necessary to turn the wheels to
the right and left for access to the screws.
3Detach the retaining bolts securing the
sides of the spoiler (see illustration).
4Working through the grille area of thespoiler, detach the retaining screws securing
the front of the spoiler (see illustration).
5Pull the spoiler forward and detach it from
the vehicle.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
14 Bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
1Detach the direction indicator and side
marker light assemblies from the bumper(s)
(see illustrations).
2Disconnect all wire harness connectors
attached to the bumper or light assemblies
that would interfere with removal.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
11
12.1 Removing one side at a time, remove
the grille insert retaining screws (arrowed)
- tilt the top edge of the grille insert
forward, then lift up and out to remove it12.2 Working through the grille insert
openings, remove the retaining screws
from each edge of the grille frame
13.4 Working through the grille area of the
spoiler, remove the screws (arrowed)
retaining the front of the spoiler14.1a Depress the retaining clips on each
side of the side marker lamp assemblies,
then gently prise forward to remove it . . .14.1b . . . then detach the direction
indicator assemblies from the bumper in
the same manner
13.1 Working underneath the vehicle,
remove the screws (arrowed) securing the
front spoiler lower cover13.2 Working in the front wheel openings,
remove the screws (arrowed) securing the
front air dam panels13.3 The retaining bolts (arrowed)
securing the sides of the front spoiler are
located behind the bumper
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3Remove two bumper retaining bolts located
on the bottom side of the bumper (see
illustration). Pull the bumper assembly out
and away from the vehicle to remove it.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal.
15 Front wing-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the front wheel nuts. Raise the
vehicle, support it securely on axle stands and
remove the front wheel.
2Remove the front bumper assembly (see
Section 14).
3Remove the front spoiler (see Section 13).4Detach the inner wing splash shield (see
illustration).
5On 1988 and 1989 models, remove the
coolant overflow reservoir located behind the
splash shield (see Chapter 3).
6On models with round headlights, remove
the headlight bezel. On models with
composite headlights (1992 Vanden Plas, all
1993 and later models), remove the headlight
(see Chapter 12).
7Remove the wing mounting bolts and nuts
(see illustrations).
8Detach the wing. It’s a good idea to have an
assistant support the wing while it’s being
moved away from the vehicle to prevent
damage to the surrounding body panels.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
16 Boot lid- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The boot lid is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Open the boot lid and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or wire harness
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
mounting bolts with a marking pen.
4While an assistant supports the boot lid,
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off(see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
When refitting the boot lid, align the lid-to-
hinge bolts with the marks made during
removal.
Adjustment
6Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment
of the boot lid is done by moving the bonnet in
relation to the hinge plate after loosening the
bolts or nuts.
7Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate
as described earlier in this section so you can
judge the amount of movement.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
14.3 Remove the two retaining bolts from
the bottom of the bumper, then remove the
bumper from the vehicle15.4 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing
the inner wing splash shield15.7a Detach the wing retaining bolts
(arrowed) at the front of the wing
15.7c Working in the wheel opening,
remove the wing-to-rocker panel bolt
(arrowed)
15.7d Remove the wing-to-door pillar bolt
(arrow; lower bolt not visible)15.7e Detach the bolts along the
top of the wing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.7b Remove the wing-to-radiator
support bolt (arrowed)
16.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the boot lid, remove the retaining bolts and
lift off the boot lid

3261 Jaguar XJ6
12
Chapter 12
Body electrical system
1 General information
The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid-type battery which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor will be found in
Chapter 5.
It should be noted that when portions of the
electrical system are serviced, the cable
should be disconnected from the negative
battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts
and/or fires.
2 Electrical fault finding-
general information
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links, in-line fuses or
circuit breakers related to that component
and the wiring and electrical connectors that
link the component to both the battery andthe chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical
circuit problem, wiring diagrams are included
at the end of this Chapter.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time,
chances are the problem is in a fuse or earth
connection, because several circuits are often
routed through the same fuse and earth
connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the
condition of all fuses, wires and connections
in a problem circuit before diagnosing it.
If testing instruments are going to be
utilised, use the diagrams to plan ahead of
time where you will make the necessary
connections in order to accurately pinpoint
the trouble spot.
The basic tools needed for electrical fault
finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used), a continuity tester, which includes a
bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a
jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker
incorporated, which can be used to bypasselectrical components. Before attempting to
locate a problem with test instruments,
use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to
make the connections.
Voltage checks
Voltage checks should be performed if a
circuit is not functioning properly. Connect
one lead of a circuit tester to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good
earth. Connect the other lead to a electrical
connector in the circuit being tested,
preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the
bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present,
which means that the part of the circuit
between the electrical connector and the
battery is problem free. Continue checking the
rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When
you reach a point at which no voltage is
present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time the problem can be traced to a loose
connection. Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is in the Accessory or Run position.
Finding a short
One method of finding shorts in a circuit is
to remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring
harness from side to side while watching the
test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short Airbag system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Circuit breakers - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Direction indicators/hazard flashers - general information . . . . . . . . 7
Electric aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electric side view mirrors - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Electric sunroof - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Electric window system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuel, oil and temperature gauges - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing (1992 to 1994 models) - removal and refitting . . . 19Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Headlights - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Horn - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ignition switch and key lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Inertia switch - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
In-line fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio and speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Relays - general information and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
12•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321