1997 BUICK REGAL ABS

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in
spurts
-- heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking
-- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a
mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops, Your brakes will wear
out much faster if you
do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the
traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will
eliminate
a lot of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake
normally but don’t pump your brakes.
If you do, the
pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is
used up, it may take longer
to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive
away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You
may hear
a momentary motor or clicking noise while
this test is going on, and you may even notice that your
brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.
ANTI -
LOCK
If there’s a problem with the
anti-lock brake system, this
warning light will stay on or
flash. See “Anti-Lock
Brake System Warning
Light” in the Index.
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Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly
an animal jumps out in
front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with
ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one
of the wheels
is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work
the brakes at each front wheel and at the
rear wheels.
The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster
than any driver could. The computer
is programmed to
make the most of available tire and road conditions.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the
vehicle to go.
If you start steering quickly enough, your
vehicle may straighten
out. Always be ready for a
second skid
if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is
on the road. For safety, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best
to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or
braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower
gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You may not realize the surface
is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn
to recognize warning
clues
-- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on
the road to make a “mirrored surface’’
-- and slow
down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
Driving at Night
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Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that
some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your Buick dealer. The green arrows on your
instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn
or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps
will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about
to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on
the trailer are burned out. Thus,
you may think drivers
behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not.
It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have
to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and
no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around
45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the
possibility
of engine and transaxle overheating.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to
do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P)
yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer’s wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and shift to PARK
(P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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Attach T-hook chains in
front of the wheels, into the
slots of the front shipping
brackets on the cradle (both
sides). Insert the hook from
the inward side
of the slot
and not the outward side.
I
These slots are to be used when securing to
car-carrier equipment.
NOTICE:
When attaching T-hooks to the shipping slots in
the frame rail, attach them inside
of the frame to
avoid damage to the frame or front fascia.
Attach a separate safety
chain around the outboard
end of each lower
control arm.
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NOTICE:
Take care not to damage the brake pipes and
hoses or the
ABS sensor and wiring.
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Headlamps
1. Pull up on the headlamp retainers to release the
2. Slide the headlamp assembly out of the slots.
assembly locator tabs.
3. Lift the plastic locking tab on the
electrical
connector and pull the connector from the headlamp
bulb socket.
4. Connect the new headlamp assembly to the wiring
5. Insert the headlamp into the slots in the fascia.
6. Slide the retainers downward until they are fully seated.
Front Parking and Tbrn Signal Lamp
1. Remove the headlamp assembly. Refer to the
removal procedure earlier in this section.
2. Remove rubber bulb access cover.
3. Twist and pull the sidemarker lamp socket from the
4. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb from
5. Push the new bulb into the socket.
6. Put the socket back into the headlamp assembly and
turn it to the right until it is secure.
7. Replace the rubber bulb access cover.
harness, making sure
the connector tab snaps into place.
headlamp assembly.
the socket.
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Underhood Electrical Center -- Passenger’s Side
Some fuses and relays are in the underhood electrical
center on the passenger’s side of the engine
compartment.
Fuse
1
2
3
11
Description
Cooling Fan
Starter Solenoid
Power Seats, Rear
Defog, Heated Seats
Starter Solenoid
Fuse
4
5
6
7
8
Relay
9
10
11
12
13
14
Description
High Blower, Hazard Flasher,
Stoplamps, Power Mirror, Door Locks
Ignition Switch, BTSI, Stoplamps,
ABS, Turn Signals, Cluster, Air Bag,
DRL Module
Cooling Fan
Interior Lamps, Retained Accessory
Power, ABS, Keyless Entry, CEL TEL,
Data Link,
HVAC Head, Cluster,
Radio, AUX Power, Cigarette Lighter
Ignition Switch, Wipers, Radio,
Steering Wheel Controls, Body Control
Module, AUX Power, Power Windows,
Sunroof, HVAC Controls, DRL, Rear
Defog Relay
Description
Cooling Fan 2
Cooling Fan
3
Starter Solenoid
Cooling Fan 1
Ignition Main
Not Used
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