1996 CHRYSLER VOYAGER light

QUICK CONNECT COUPLING Ð RHD
CAUTION: Do not actuate the master cylinder or
step on the clutch pedal before the quick connect
coupling is joined, or an over pressure condition
could result in damage to the master cylinder, the
quick connect coupling, or the dash panel.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the quick connect coupling by lightly
pushing down on the black release collar on the male
side of the quick connect coupling while separating it
from the female side of the quick connect coupling
(Fig. 14).
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the male side of the quick connect cou-
pling (part of the master cylinder assembly) by hold-
ing the clutch tube at the rear and inserting it into
the female side of the quick connect coupling (part of
the slave cylinder assembly) until an audible click is
heard (Fig. 14).Do not push on the black release
collar on the male side of the quick connect
coupling while inserting it into the female side
of the quick connect coupling.
2. Confirm the connection by pulling firmly on the
clutch tube.
MASTER CYLINDER SYSTEM Ð RHD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the quick connect coupling. Refer to
the ªQuick Connect Couplingº removal and installa-
tion procedure in this section.
(2) Remove the master cylinder pushrod from the
clutch pedal pin by prying between the self-retaining
snap-on bushing, located in the master cylinder
pushrod, and the clutch pedal pin (Fig. 15).
(3) Disconnect the hydraulic line from the weld
stud clips (Fig. 14).
(4) Remove the rubber grommet at the master cyl-
inder pass through in the dash panel (Fig. 16).
(5) Remove the master cylinder assembly from the
engine compartment by rotating it clockwise from the
12 o'clock lock position to the 2 o'clock unlock posi-
tion and pulling the master cylinder out tilted 20
degrees down.NOTE: A ªTwist and Lockº type
mechanism is used to secure the master cylin-
der to the clutch pedal bracket which is
attached to the dash panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the master cylinder assembly to the
clutch pedal bracket by tilting it 20 degrees upward
and at the 2 o'clock unlocked position.
(2) Rotate the master cylinder counterclockwise to
the 12 o'clock locked position.
(3) Install the rubber grommet into the dash panel
at the master cylinder pass through (Fig. 16).
(4) Connect the hydraulic line to the weld stud
clips in the engine compartment (Fig. 14).
(5) Connect the quick connect coupling. Refer to
the ªQuick Connect Couplingº removal and installa-
tion procedure in this section.
(6) Install the self-retaining snap-on bushing into
the master cylinder pushrod, if necessary.
(7) Install the master cylinder pushrod with self-
retaining snap-on bushing onto the clutch pedal pin
by pressing it onto the clutch pedal pin until seats in
the groove of the clutch pedal pin.
SLAVE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY Ð RHD
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the quick connect coupling. Refer to
the ªQuick Connect Couplingº removal and installa-
tion procedure in this section.
2. Remove the nut and washer assemblies (2)
retaining the slave cylinder and mounting bracket
assembly to the transaxle (Fig. 14).
3. Remove the slave cylinder assembly from the
transaxle.
Fig. 16 Clutch Master Cylinder Ð RHD
6 - 12 CLUTCHNS/GS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

INSTALLATION
1. Position the slave cylinder assembly to the tran-
saxle deck and secure with the nut and washer
assemblies (2) and tighten to specifications (Fig. 14).
2. Make sure the slave cylinder pushrod is prop-
erly seated in the cup end of the clutch release lever.
3. Connect the quick connect coupling. Refer to the
ªQuick Connect Couplingº removal and installation
procedure in this section.
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY (2.0L AND 2.4L
GASOLINE)
The transaxle must be removed to service the mod-
ular clutch assembly and components (Fig. 17). Refer
to Group 21 for the ªA-558 Manual Transaxleº
removal procedure.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY (2.5L DIESEL)
The transaxle must be removed to service the
clutch disc assembly and components.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transaxle, refer to Group 21, Tran-
saxle.
(2) Install universal clutch alignment tool into the
clutch assembly (this will prevent the clutch from
inadvertently being dropped).
(3) To avoid distortion of the pressure plate,
remove the clutch pressure plate bolts a few turns at
a time. Use a crisscross pattern until all bolts are
loosened.
(4) Carefully remove the clutch pressure plate and
disc (Fig. 18).To service the flywheel, refer to Group 9, Engine.
INSPECTION
Inspect for oil leakage through engine rear main
bearing oil seal and transaxle input shaft seal. If
leakage is noted, it should be corrected at this time.
The friction faces of the flywheel and pressure
plate should not have:
²Excessive discoloration
²Burned areas
²Small cracks
²Deep grooves
²Ridges
Replace parts as required.
CAUTION: Do not polish flywheel to a mirror like
surface. Clean the flywheel face with medium sand-
paper (80-160 grade), then wipe the surface with
mineral spirits. If the surface is severely scored,
heat checked, or warped, replace the flywheel.
CAUTION: Do not flat-machine the flywheel face.
The surface profile is slightly tapered and has a
0.30 mm step.
The disc assembly should be handled without
touching the facings. Replace disc if the facings show
evidence of grease or oil soakage, or wear to within
less than .38 mm (.015 inch) of the rivet heads. The
splines on the disc hub and transaxle input shaft
should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear.
Metallic portions of disc assembly should be dry and
clean, and not been discolored from excessive heat.
Each of the arched springs between the facings
should not be broken and all rivets should be tight.
Wipe the friction surface of the pressure plate with
mineral spirits.
Using a straight edge, check clutch cover (pressure
plate) for flatness. The clutch cover (pressure plate)
Fig. 17 Modular Clutch Assembly Ð 2.0L and 2.4L
Fig. 18 Clutch Disc, Cover and Pressure Plate
NS/GSCLUTCH 6 - 13
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

friction area should be slightly concave, with the
inner diameter 0.02 mm to 0.1 mm (.0008 in. to .0039
in.) below the outer diameter. It should also be free
from discoloration, burned areas, cracks, grooves, or
ridges.
Using a surface plate, test cover for flatness. All
sections around attaching bolt holes should be in con-
tact with surface plate within .015 inch.
The cover should be a snug fit on flywheel dowels.
If the clutch assembly does not meet these require-
ments, it should be replaced.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the clutch and pressure plate onto the
flywheel.
(2) Insert the universal clutch alignment tool into
the clutch disc.
(3) To avoid distortion of the pressure plate, bolts
should be tightened a few turns at a time (Fig. 19).
Use a crisscross pattern until all bolts are seated.
Tighten pressure plate bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove the universal clutch alignment tool.
(5) Install the transaxle, refer to Group 21, Tran-
saxle.
(6) Fill transaxle to the proper level with the spec-
ified lubricant.
(7) While the vehicle is elevated slightly, run the
transaxle through all the forward gears. Apply
brakes and shift into reverse. Run the transaxle
through reverse gear.
(8) Check the transaxle for leaks and recheck the
level of the transaxle lubricant.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING AND FORK
Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. See Group
21, for removal and installation procedures.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove clutch release shaft E-clip (Fig. 20).
(2) Remove the clutch release shaft and then slide
the fork and bearing assembly off the bearing pilot
(Fig. 21).
Fig. 19 2.5 Diesel Clutch Assembly
Fig. 20 E-clip at Clutch Release Lever Shaft
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Shaft
6 - 14 CLUTCHNS/GS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(3) Remove the fork from the bearing thrust plate
(Fig. 22).
(4) Examine the condition of the bearing. It is pre-
lubricated and sealed and should not be immersed in
oil or solvent.
(5) The bearing should turn smoothly when held in
the hand under a light thrust load. A light drag
caused by the lubricant fill is normal. If the bearing
is noisy, rough, or dry, replace the complete bearing
assembly with a new bearing.
(6) The bearing has a plastic sleeve pre-lubricated
at assembly. Wipe out the old grease. Refill the sleeve
cavities and coat the inner surface with multipurpose
grease. If the liner is cracked or worn, replace the
bearing assembly.
(7) Check the condition of the spring clips. If the
clips are broken or distorted, replace the bearing
assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before assembling the fork, lubricate the
rounded thrust pads and the spring clip cavities with
multipurpose grease.
(2) Assemble the fork to the bearing by sliding the
thrust pads under the spring clips. Be careful to
avoid distorting the spring clips. These clips prevent
the bearing thrust plate from rotating with the bear-
ing.
(3) Slide the bearing and fork assembly onto the
input shaft bearing retainer.
(4) Position the release shaft bushings in the hous-
ing and install the release shaft. A small amount of
bearing grease between the release shaft bushing
and the shaft is beneficial but not required. Install
the retainer clip in the shaft groove near the large
bushing.
(5) Install the release lever and retaining clip on
the outer end of the release shaft.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, grease, water, or other fluids on
the clutch contact surfaces will cause faulty opera-
tion.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated. Look for evidence of oil, grease, or water/
road splash on clutch components.
OIL CONTAMINATION
Oil contamination indicates a leak at the rear main
seal and/or transaxle input shaft. Oil leaks produce a
residue of oil on the transaxle housing interior, clutch
cover and flywheel. Heat buildup caused by slippage
can bake the oil residue onto the components. This
glaze-like residue ranges in color from amber to
black.
GREASE CONTAMINATION
Grease contamination is usually a product of over-
lubrication. During clutch service, apply only a small
amount of grease to the input shaft splines. Excess
grease may be thrown off during operation, contami-
nating the disc.
ROAD SPLASH/WATER CONTAMINATION
Road splash contamination is usually caused by
driving the vehicle through deep water puddles.
Water can be forced into the clutch housing, causing
clutch components to become contaminated. Facing of
disc will absorb moisture and bond to the flywheel
and/or, pressure plate, if vehicle is allowed to stand
for some time before use. If this condition occurs,
replacement of clutch assembly may be required.
Drive the vehicle until normal clutch operating tem-
perature has been obtained. This will dry off disc
assembly, pressure plate, and flywheel.
CLEANING PRECAUTIONS
Condensation from steam vapors tend to accumu-
late on the internal clutch mechanism when the vehi-
cle is steam cleaned. Facing of disc will absorb
moisture and will bond to flywheel and/or pressure
plate, if vehicle is allowed to stand for some time
before use. If this condition occurs, it may require
replacement of clutch assembly. After cleaning, drive
the vehicle to its normal clutch operating tempera-
ture. This will dry off disc assembly, pressure plate,
and flywheel.
Fig. 22 Clutch Release Fork
NS/GSCLUTCH 6 - 15
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

ADJUSTMENTS
CLUTCH CABLE Ð LHD
The manual transaxle clutch release system has a
unique self-adjusting mechanism to compensate for
clutch disc wear. This adjuster mechanism is located
within the clutch cable assembly. The preload spring
maintains tension on the cable. This tension keeps
the clutch release bearing continuously loaded
against the fingers of the clutch cover assembly.
ADJUSTER MECHANISM FUNCTION CHECK Ð
LHD
(1) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut. Push
the clutch cable housing toward the dash panel (With
less than 20 lbs. of effort, the cable housing should
move 30-50mm.). This indicates proper adjuster
mechanism function. If the cable does not adjust,
determine if the mechanism is properly seated on the
bracket.
(2) If the adjust mechanism functions properly,
route cable to the transaxle.
(3) Insert cable into transaxle and through clutch
release lever. Ensure the cable is routed through the
smaller hole in the transaxle deck (Fig. 10).
(4) Pull down on cable and insert cable retaining
clip onto clutch cable end.
(5) Check clutch pedal position switch operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a
bracket located behind the clutch pedal. The switch
is held in place by four plastic wing tabs.
The clutch pedal position switch IS NOT adjust-
able. The pedal blade contacts the switch in the down
position.
SPECIFICATIONS
CLUTCH TIGHTENING REFERENCE
2.0/2.4 LITER GASOLINE ENGINE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Drive Plate Bolts............95N´m(70ft.lbs.)
Lower Trans. Cover.........12N´m(105 in. lbs.)
Modular Clutch Bolts.........74N´m(55ft.lbs.)
Upper Trans. Cover.........12N´m(105 in. lbs.)
2.5 LITER DIESEL ENGINE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Flywheel Bolts..............95N´m(70ft.lbs.)
Lower Trans. Cover.........12N´m(105 in. lbs.)
Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts....27N´m(20ft.lbs.)
Upper Trans. Cover.........12N´m(105 in. lbs.)
6 - 16 CLUTCHNS/GS

at running operating temperature the high pressure
inlet tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank
drops:
²Transmission oil will become hotter.
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Air in the coolant can cause loss of flow through
the heater.
²Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant also can
cause the same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS
tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It then
escapes to the atmosphere in the CRS tank and is
replaced with solid coolant on cool down.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION
At idle with Air Conditioning off the temperature
gauge will rise slowly to about 5/8 gauge travel, the
fan will come on and the gauge will quickly drop to
about 1/2 gauge travel. This is normal.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
COOLANT LEVEL CHECKÐROUTINE
Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without
removing the radiator cap.With the engine cold
and not running,simply observe the level of the
coolant in the reserve tank (Fig. 3). The coolant level
should be between the minimum and maximum
marks.
COOLANTÐADDING ADDITIONAL
The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed to maintain this
level, it should be added to the coolant reserve tank.
Use only 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspect water
supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol
and distilled water mix is recommended.
COOLANT LEVEL SERVICE
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator.
When servicing requires a coolant level check in
the radiator, the engine must beoffandnotunder
pressure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the
radiator draincock while observing the CoolantRecovery System (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the
CRS tank should drop slightly. Then remove the radi-
ator cap. The radiator should be full to the top. If
not, and the coolant level in the CRS tank is at the
MIN mark there is an air leak in the CRS system.
Check hose or hose connections to the CRS tank,
radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to the
radiator filler neck for leaks.
COOLING SYSTEMÐDRAINING
Without removing radiator pressure cap and
with system not under pressure,shut engine off
and open draincock. The coolant reserve tank should
empty first, then remove radiator pressure cap. (if
not, see Testing Cooling System for leaks). To vent
2.4L engine remove the coolant temperature sensor
located above water outlet housing (Fig. 15). The 3.0/
3.3/3.8L engines have an air bleed vent on the ther-
mostat.
Removal of a sensor is required because the ther-
mostat does not have an air vent. Sensor removal
allows an air bleed for coolant to drain from the
engine block.
COOLING SYSTEMÐREFILLING
First clean system to remove old coolant, see Cool-
ing System Cleaning.
Fill the system, using the correct antifreeze as
described in the Coolant Section. Fill the system to
50 percent of its capacity with 100 percent glycol.
Then complete filling system with water. The 2.4L
engine requires venting by removal of the coolant
sensor on top of the water outlet connector (Fig. 15).
When coolant reaches this hole:
²Install coolant sensor and tighten to 7 N´m (60
in. lbs.) for 2.4L Engines.
Fig. 15 Coolant Temperature SensorÐ2.4L Engine
Drain/Fill
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEMNS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a
small amount of coolant from the weep hole (black
stain on water pump body). Do not replace the
water pump if this condition exists. Replace the
water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of
green/brown engine coolant is evident on water
pump body from the weep hole (shaft seal failure).
Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before
replacing water pump.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
When inspecting serpentine drive belts, small
cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the belt
from rib to rib (Fig. 37), are considered normal. these
are not reasons to replace the belt. However, cracks
running along the rib (not across) are not normal.
Any belt with cracks running along the rib must be
replaced (Fig. 37). Also replace the belt if it has
excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in hand,right side up. The vent
valve at the bottom of the cap should open. If the
rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve
from opening, replace the cap.
Hold the cleaned cap in handupside down.If any
light shows between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap.Do not use a replacement cap that
has a spring to hold the vent shut.
Replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve system with a completely sealed dia-
phragm spring, and rubber gasket to seal to fillerneck top surface. This design assures coolant return
to radiator.
COOLING SYSTEM CLEANING
Drain cooling system (see:Cooling System
Draining) and refill with clean water (see:Cooling
System Refilling). Run engine with radiator cap
installed until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop
engine and drain water from system. If water is
dirty; fill, run, and drain system again, until water
runs clear.
REVERSE FLUSHING THE RADIATOR
Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses
from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator
lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn
on air in short blasts.
CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not
exceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may
result. Continue this procedure until water runs
clear.
REVERSE FLUSHING THE ENGINE
Drain radiator (see:Draining Cooling System)
and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine ther-
mostat and reinstall thermostat housing. Install suit-
able flushing gun to thermostat housing hose. Turn
on water, and when engine is filled, turn on air, but
no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short blasts. Allow
engine to fill between blasts of air. Continue this pro-
cedure until water runs clean. Reinstall thermostat
using a new housing gasket. Fill cooling system (See
Refilling).
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum
cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Cor-
rosion products are carried to the radiator and depos-
ited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when
wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be
removed with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and
neutralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow
manufacturers directions for use.
ADJUSTMENTS
PROPER BELT TENSION
Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accesso-
ries depends on proper belt tension. Belt tensioning
should be performed with the aid of a Burroughs
gauge Special Tool C-4162. Because of space limita-
tions in the engine compartment, the use of the
gauge may be restricted. Raise the vehicle on a hoist
Fig. 37 Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Patterns
NSCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 25
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)

THERMOSTAT OPERATION
2.5 VM DIESEL
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature (Fig. 10). The
thermostat has a hole to bleed off air in the cooling
system during engine warm up. The thermostat
begins to open at 80É C62É (176É F64É).
PRESSURE/VENT CAP
WARNING: Engine coolant can reach temperatures
of 200É fahrenheit or greater. If the cooling system
is opened with coolant at a high temperature, hot
coolant can be forced out of the system under high
pressures, causing personal injury. Allow system to
cool down prior to removing the pressure cap.
The pressure/vent cap is secured to the coolant
tank neck by a means of a cam lock system. This cap
releases excess pressure at some point within a
range of 90-117 kPa (13- 17 psi) for gasoline engines,
and 110±124 kPa (16±18 psi) for diesel engines. The
actual pressure relief point (in pounds) is labeled on
top of the cap (Fig. 11).
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap (Fig. 11) contains a
spring-loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens
when system pressure reaches approximately 103
kPa (15 psi).
When the engine is cooling down, vacuum is
formed within the cooling system. To prevent collapse
of the radiator and coolant hoses from this vacuum, a
vacuum valve is used within the cap. This valve pre-
vents excessive pressure differences from occurring
between the closed cooling system and the atmo-
sphere. If the vacuum valve is stuck shut, the radia-
tor and/or cooling system hoses will collapse on cool-
down.
Fig. 7 Water PumpÐ2.0L Gasoline Engine
Fig. 8 Water PumpÐ2.0L Gasoline Engine
Fig. 9 Water PumpÐ2.5L VM Diesel
Fig. 10 Thermostat and Housing Ð 2.5L VM Diesel
7 - 4 COOLING SYSTEMNS/GS
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)