Page 125 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Voltmeter Gage
I
When your engine is not
running, but the ignition is
on (in the RUN position),
this gage shows your
battery’s state
of charge in
DC volts.
When the engine is running, the gage shows the
condition of the charging system. Readings between the
low and high warning zones indicate the normal
operating range.
Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a.
large number
of electrical accessories are operating in
the vehicle and the engine is left at an idle for an
extended period. This condition is normal since the
charging system is
not able to provide full power at
engine idle.
As engine speeds are increased, this
condition should correct itself as higher engine speeds
allow the charging system
to create maximum power.
You can only drive for a short time with the reading in
either warning zone.
If you must drive, turn off all
unnecessary accessories.
Readings
in either warning zone indicate a possible
problem
in the electrical system. Have the vehicle
serviced as soon as possible.
Brake System Warning Light
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into
two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can
still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you
need both parts working well.
If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake
problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.
This light should come
on
briefly when you turn the
ignition key to RUN. If it
doesn’t come on then, have
it fixed
so it will be ready to
warn you if there’s a
problem.
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Page 126 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the
road and stop carefully.
You may notice that the pedal is
harder to push. Or, the pedal
may go closer to the floor.
It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the
vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing Your Vehicle”
,
in the Index.)
’ A CAUTIOI-
I
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light
Your brake system may not be working properly
if the brake system warning light is on. Driving
with the brake system warning light on
can lead
to an accident. If the light
is still on after you’ve
pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have
the vehicle towed for service.
When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light
will also come
on when you set your parking brake. The
light will stay
on if your parking brake doesn’t release
fully. If it stays
on after your parking brake is fully
released, it means you have a brake problem.
ANTI - LOCK
With the anti-lock brake
system, this light will
come
on when you start
your engine and may stay
on for several seconds.
That’s normal.
If the light stays
on, or comes on when you’re driving,
your vehicle needs service. If the regular brake system
warning light isn’t
on, you still have brakes, but you
don’t have anti-lock brakes. If the regular brake system
warning light is
also on, you don’t have anti-lock brakes
and there’s
a problem with your regular brakes. See
“Brake System Warning Light” earlier
in this part.
The anti-lock brake system warning light should come
on briefly when
you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the
light doesn’t come
on then, have it fixed so it will be
ready to warn
you if there is a problem.
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Page 131 of 392
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Shift Light
SHIFT
You have the shift light if
you have a manual
transmission. This light
comes on very briefly as
a
bulb check when you start
the engine. Shifting when
the indicator light
is on will
help you get the best fuel
economy. See “Shift Light”
in the Index.
Daytime Running Lamps Indicator Light
You have this light on the
instrument panel.
It goes on whenever the
DRL are
on, the ignition
is on, the headlamp switch
is
off and the parking brake
is released.
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Page 160 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking
-- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This
is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool
between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much
faster if you do a lot
of heavy braking. If you keep pace
with the traffic and allow realistic following distances,
you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That
means better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake
normally but don’t pump your brakes. If
you do, the
pedal may get harder
to push down. If your engine
stops,
you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is
used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When
you start your engine and begin to drive away,
your anti-lock brake system will check itself.
You may
hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test
is going on. This
is normal.
ANTI - LOCK
If there’s a problem with the
anti-lock brake system, this
warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake
System Warning Light” in
the Index.
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Page 177 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you'll want to
consider a number of things:
0 How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
0 What's the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery?
Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?
Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
Boulders?
What's at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If
you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to
keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low
gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and
they won't have to do all the work. Descend slowly,
keeping
your vehicle under control at all times.
.. .. ..
Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause
your brakes to overheat and fade. This could
cause loss
of control and a serious accident.
Apply the brakes lightly when descending a
hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed
under control.
I
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Page 182 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don’t
try it -- you probably won’t get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through
it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get
your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your
tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your\
engine. When you go through water, remember that when
your brakes get wet,
it may take you longer to stop.
I
A CAUTION:
~ Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep
water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown.
If it’s
only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive
through rushing water.
See “Driving Through Water”
in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
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Page 186 of 392
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try
to avoid puddles.
But if you can't, try to slow down before you hit them.
I ' A CAUTION: I
I I
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won't work
well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one
side.
You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle
of water or
a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until
your brakes work normally.
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Page 197 of 392

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When
you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That
is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that
you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery
to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this
only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But
do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
(Four-wheel Drive Only)
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Place an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission
in FIRST (1).
3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
Do not tow the vehicle by the rear bumper
bar. Refer to the hitch manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Place the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL (N).
Recreational vehicle towing is not recommended for
vehicles with
the optional electronic shift transfer
case or all-wheel drive because the transfer cases
have
no neutral position.
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N) can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission,
or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual
transmission. This is because the transfer case
overrides the transmission.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.
6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and
turn it
one notch forward of the LOCK position. This
places the key
in the OFF position, which unlocks
the steering column while preventing battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow for proper
movement
of the front wheelshires during towing.
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