1995 JEEP YJ low oil pressure

SIDE CLEARANCE MEASUREMENT
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connect-
ing rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to En-
gine Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace
the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.
PISTON FITTING
BORE GAUGE METHOD
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, Special Tool 6879 or equivalent, ca-
pable of reading in .00019INCREMENTS with gauge
ring Special Tool 6884 is required. If a bore gauge is
not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Set the bore gauge to the gauge ring and zero
gauge.
(3) Remove gauge from ring and check cylinder as
shown in (Fig. 8) bore and record reading.
(4) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 58.725 mm (2-5/16 inches) below top
of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees)
to the axis of the crankshaft at point B and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point A.
(5) Recheck bore gauge in gauge ring, bore gauge
should read zero. If gauge does not read zero, reset
gauge and start over with procedure.
The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston
pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.The coated
piston connecting rod assembly can be used to
service previous built engines and MUST be re-
placed as complete sets.Tin coated pistons should
not be used as replacements for the new coated pistons.
The coating material is applied to the piston after
the final piston machining process. Measuring the
outside diameter of a coated piston will not provide
accurate results. Therefore, measuring the inside di-
ameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is
MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper size
piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in.00019increments is required.
Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires
slightly more pressure than that required for non-
coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will
give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cyl-
inder bore.
PISTON PIN
Piston pins are press-fitted into the connecting rods
and require no locking device. The piston, piston pin
and connecting rod are replaced as an assembly.
PISTON RING FITTING
(1) Carefully clean the carbon from all ring
grooves. Oil drain openings in the oil ring groove and
pin boss must be clear. DO NOT remove metal from
the grooves or lands. This will change ring-to-groove
clearances and will damage the ring-to-land seating.
(2) Be sure the piston ring grooves are free of nicks
and burrs.
(3) Measure the ring side clearance with a feeler
gauge fitted snugly between the ring land and ring
(Fig. 10). Rotate the ring in the groove. It must move
freely around circumference of the groove.
(4) Place ring in the cylinder bore and push down
with inverted piston to position near lower end of the
ring travel. Measure ring gap with a feeler gauge fit-
ting snugly between ring ends (Fig. 12). The correct
compression ring end gap is 0.25-0.51 mm (0.010-
0.020 inch). The correct oil control ring end gap is
0.381-1.397 mm (0.015-0.055 inch).
Fig. 8 Bore Gauge
Fig. 9 Piston Size Chart
Fig. 10 Piston Dimensions
9 - 42 2.5L ENGINEJ

CAUTION: Verify that the oil squirt holes in the rods
face the camshaft and that the arrows on the pis-
tons face the front of the engine.
(7) Install the oil pan and gaskets as outlined in
the installation procedure.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Install the engine cylinder head, push rods,
rocker arms, bridges, pivots and engine cylinder head
cover.
(10) Fill the crankcase with engine oil.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the oil pan and oil pump.
(5) Remove only one main bearing cap and lower
insert at a time (Fig. 1).
(6) Remove the lower insert from the bearing cap.
(7) Remove the upper insert by LOOSENING (DO
NOT REMOVE) all of the other bearing caps. Now
insert a small cotter pin tool in the crankshaft jour-
nal oil hole. Bend the cotter pin as illustrated to fab-
ricate the tool (Fig. 2). With the cotter pin tool in
place, rotate the crankshaft so that the upper bear-
ing insert will rotate in the direction of its locking
tab. Because there is no hole in the No.3 main jour-
nal, use a tongue depressor or similar soft-faced tool
to remove the bearing insert (Fig. 2). After movingthe insert approximately 25 mm (1 inch), it can be
removed by applying pressure under the tab.
(8) Using the same procedure described above, re-
move the remaining bearing inserts one at a time for
inspection.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated (Fig. 3).
If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
remove the engine for crankshaft repair.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
Fig. 1 Removing Main Bearing Caps and Lower
Inserts
Fig. 2 Removing Upper Inserts
Fig. 3 Main Bearing Wear Patterns
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 45

(29) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(30) Disconnect the engine speed sensor wire con-
nection.
(31) Remove the exhaust pipe support.
(32) Remove the flywheel and converter housing
access cover.
(33)Vehicles with Automatic Transmission:
(a) Mark the converter and drive plate location.
(b) Remove the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(34) Remove the upper flywheel and converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(35) Remove the engine mount cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(36) Lower the vehicle.
(37) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(38) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(39) Place a support or floor jack under the con-
verter (or flywheel) housing.
(40) Remove the remaining converter (or flywheel)
housing bolts.
(41) Lift the engine out of the engine compart-
ment.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the engine into a vehicle
equipped with an automatic transmission, be care-
ful not to damage the trigger wheel on the flywheel.
(1) Attach a lifting device to the engine and lower
the engine into the engine compartment. For easier
installation, it may be necessary to remove the en-
gine mount cushions from the engine mount bracket
as an aide in alignment of the engine to the trans-
mission.
(2)Vehicles with Manual Transmission:
(a) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(b) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.(c) Install and tighten the flywheel housing lower
bolts finger tight.
(3)Vehicles with Automatic Transmission:
(a) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(b) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on
each side.
(c) Tighten all 4 bolts finger tight.
(4) Install the engine mount cushions (if removed).
(5) Lower the engine and engine mount cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets. Install the
bolts and finger tighten the nuts.
(6) Remove the engine lifting device.
(7) Raise and support the vehicle.
(8) Install the remaining flywheel and converter
housing bolts. Tighten all bolts to 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(9)Vehicles with Automatic Transmission:
(a) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(b) Ensure the installation reference marks are
aligned.
(10) Install the flywheel and converter housing ac-
cess cover.
(11) Install the exhaust pipe support and tighten
the screw.
(12) Tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts.
(13) Connect the engine speed sensor wire connec-
tions and tighten the screws.
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(15) Install the starter motor and connect the ca-
ble.
(16) Connect the wires to the starter motor sole-
noid.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors identified during engine removal.
(19) If equipped with power steering:
(a) Remove the protective caps
(b) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 Nzm (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(c) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.
(20) Install the power brake vacuum check valve to
the booster, if equipped.
(21) Connect the fuel inlet and return hoses at the
fuel rail. Verify that the quick-connect fitting assem-
bly fits securely over the fuel lines by giving the fuel
lines a firm tug.
(22) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake man-
ifold.
(23) Connect the distributor electrical connector
and oil pressure switch connector.
(24) Connect the injection system wire harness
connector on the dash panel.
(25) Connect the line pressure cable (if equipped
with automatic transmission).
Fig. 16 Air Cleaner Assembly & Power Steering
Pump
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 61

(26) Connect the speed control cable, if equipped.
(27) Connect the throttle cable linkages.
(28) Connect the heater hoses at the engine ther-
mostat housing and water pump.
(29) Install the fan assembly to the idler pulley.
(30) Install the radiator or radiator and condenser
(if equipped with A/C).
(31) Connect the service valves to the A/C compres-
sor ports, if equipped with A/C.
(32) Charge the air conditioner system.
(33) Connect radiator fan switch wire.
(34) Connect automatic transmission fluid cooler
lines, if equipped.
(35) Install the fan shroud, electric cooling fan and
radiator and condenser (if equipped with A/C).
(36) Install upper radiator support.
(37) Connect the upper radiator hose.
(38) Connect the lower radiator hose.
(39) Fill the cooling system with reusable coolant
and/or new coolant.
(40) Align the hood to the scribe marks. Install the
hood.
(41) Connect the vacuum harness connector.
(a) Firmly push the connectors together ensuring
that the retaining tabs are engaged.
(b) Insert the vacuum connector assembly into
the retaining bracket on the intake manifold.
(42) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(43) Install the battery and connect the battery ca-
ble.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(44) Start the engine, inspect for leaks and correct
the fluid levels, as necessary.
ENGINE ASSEMBLYÐYJ VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Place a protective cloth over the windshield
frame. Raise the hood and rest it on the windshield
frame (Fig. 17).
(2) Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the bat-
tery.
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPERATED
ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. USE CARE TO
PREVENT SCALDING BY HOT COOLANT. CAREFULLY
RELEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING THE
RADIATOR DRAIN COCK AND CAP.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste reusablecoolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into
a clean container for reuse.
(4) Disconnect the wire connectors from the gener-
ator.
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil and distributor wire
connectors.
(6) Disconnect the oil pressure sender wire connec-
tor.
(7) Disconnect the wires at the starter motor sole-
noid and injection wire harness connector.
(8) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(9) Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines at the
fuel rail and return line by squeezing the retaining
tabs against the fuel tube (Fig. 18). Pull the fuel tube
and retainer from the quick-connect fitting (refer to
Group 14, Fuel System for the proper procedure).
(10) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(11) Disconnect the engine ground strap.
(12) Remove the air cleaner (Fig. 18).
(13) Disconnect the vacuum purge hose at the fuel
vapor canister tee.
(14) Disconnect the idle speed actuator wire con-
nector.
(15) Disconnect the throttle cable and remove it
from the bracket (Fig. 18).
(16) Disconnect the throttle rod at the bellcrank.
(17) Disconnect the speed control cable, if equipped
(Fig. 18).
Fig. 17 Hood on Windshield Frame
9 - 62 4.0L ENGINEJ

VALVE COMPONENT REPLACEÐCYLINDER HEAD
NOT REMOVED
ROCKER ARMS AND PUSH RODS
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot
assembly (Fig. 2). Alternately loosen the capscrews
one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.
(3) Check for rocker arm bridges which are causing
misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 2). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or ex-
cessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessivelyworn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for ob-
struction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and in-
stall push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the
pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge
above each cylinder in their originally position.
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
VALVE STEM SEAL AND SPRING REPLACEMENT
This procedure can be done with the engine cylin-
der head installed on the block.
REMOVAL
Each valve spring is held in place by a retainer and
a set of conical valve locks. The locks can be removed
only by compressing the valve spring.
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove capscrews, bridge and pivot assemblies
and rocker arms for access to each valve spring to be
removed.
(3) Remove push rods. Retain the push rods,
bridges, pivots and rocker arms in the same order
and position as removed.
(4) Inspect the springs and retainer for cracks and
possible signs of weakening.
(5) Remove the spark plug(s) adjacent to the cylin-
der(s) below the valve springs to be removed.
(6) Connect an air hose to the adapter and apply
air pressure slowly. Maintain at least 621 kPa (90
psi) of air pressure in the cylinder to hold the valves
against their seats. For vehicles equipped with an air
conditioner, use a flexible air adaptor when servicing
the No.1 cylinder.
(7) Tap the retainer or tip with a rawhide hammer
to loosen the lock from the retainer. Use Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD-998772A to compress the spring
and remove the locks (Fig. 3).
(8) Remove valve spring and retainer (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 Rocker Arm Assembly
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 65

(9) If equipped, disconnect the power steering
pump bracket. Set the pump and bracket aside. DO
NOT disconnect the hoses.
(10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release
procedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(11) Remove the fuel lines and vacuum advance
hose.
(12) Remove the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds from the engine cylinder head (refer to Group
11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the
proper procedures).
(13) Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the
spark plugs.
(14) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(15) Remove the ignition coil and bracket assem-
bly.
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts. Bolt
No.14 cannot be removed until the head is moved for-
ward (Fig. 6). Pull bolt No.14 out as far as it will go
and then suspend the bolt in this position (tape
around the bolt).
(17) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 6).
(18) If this was the first time the bolts were re-
moved, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(19) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cylin-
der bores.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cyl-
inder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and
engine exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head
mating surfaces. Remove all gasket material and car-
bon.
Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material
has fallen into the tappet bore area.Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and top of the pistons.
INSPECTION
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the
flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mating
surfaces.
INSTALLATION
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition
gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY.DO NOT
use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and
the original valves used, measure the valve stem di-
ameter. Only standard size valves can be used with a
service replacement engine cylinder head unless the
replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed
to accommodate oversize valve stems. Remove all
carbon buildup and reface the valves.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder
bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with
the numbers facing up) onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be re-
used only once. Replace the head bolts if they were
used before or if they have a paint dab on the top
of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around
bolt), install the engine cylinder head. Remove the
tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite
592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in se-
quence according to the following procedure (Fig. 7):
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14)
to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts (in sequence):
²Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolt 11 to 13 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence,
bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than
the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt
No.11.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the cor-
rect torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt
with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you en-
Fig. 6 Engine Cylinder Head Assembly
9 - 68 4.0L ENGINEJ

(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gasket
material from the cover.
(10) Remove the thrust pin and tension spring
from the preload bolt head.
(11) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
10).
(12) Remove the camshaft sprocket preload retain-
ing bolt and washer.
(13) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(14) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(15) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.
(16) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.(17) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(18) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(19) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
bearing (smallest). This permits easier removal and
installation of the camshaft. The camshaft bearings
are pressure lubricated.
It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and in-
stallation tools are available.
Camshaft end play is maintained by the load
placed on the camshaft by the sprocket preload bolt
tension spring and thrust pin.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the camshaft pin hole.
(2) Compress the center of the replacement spring
pin with vise grips.
(3) Carefully drive the pin into the camshaft pin
hole until it is seated.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 10).
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 11. Count the
number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(6) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(7) Tighten the camshaft sprocket preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Check the valve timing.
(9) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring
and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(10) Coat both sides of the replacement timing case
cover gasket with gasket sealer. Applya3mm(1/8
inch) bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent to the joint formed at the oil pan
and cylinder block.
(11) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
Fig. 10 Timing Chain AlignmentÐTypical
9 - 76 4.0L ENGINEJ

OIL PUMP
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil to
bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
5).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder bore
location. The connecting rods and caps are stamped
with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 2).
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
Fig. 5 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 81