
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on
them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay
attention to traffic signals.
Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and
plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just
as you would for a
cross-country trip.
0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll
save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)
0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because
the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just
before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not
cleared the intersection
or may be running the red light.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways,
turnpikes, or superhighways)
are the safest of all roads. But they have their
own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and
keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are
driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat
the
left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.
At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have
a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you
should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend
with the
flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed.
Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your
shoulder as often as necessary.
Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the
prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make
sure there
isn’t another vehicle in your ‘.‘blind” spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable
following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in
advance. If you miss your exit
do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The
exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to
think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many
miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive
in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to
go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships
all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need
it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
0 Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Should
you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
There
is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery,
along with the hum of the tires on the road,
the drone of the engine, and the
rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it
happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in
less than a
second,
and you could crash and be injured.
What can you
do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can
happen.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool
interior.
0 Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area
your
mirrors and your instruments frequently.
and take
a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness
on the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or
rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning
to visit there,
here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See
“Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.)
0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the
brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work
hard on mountain roads.
0 Know how to go down hills. -The most important thing to know is this:
let your engine do some
of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear
when you
go down a steep or long hill.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Truck Loading Information
1. Recommended location for cargo
center
of gravity
for cargo weight
rating. This is the
point where the
mass of a body is
concentrated and,
if suspended at
that point, would
balance front and
rear.
Refer to Truck Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for
Use rear edge of load floor for measurement purposes.
“”’and
“B” dimensions.
Example of Proper Truck and Camper Match
1. Camper center of
gravity.
2. Recommended
center
of gravity
location zone.
The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center\
of gravity zone
for your vehicle’s cargo load.
Campers can only be installed
in a long box pickup. Check your
Truck-Camper Loading Label
in your glovebox to determine if your vehicle
can carry a slide-in camper.
You must weigh any accessories, trailer hitches or other equipment you add
to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra
weight may shorten the center
of gravity zone for your vehicle. Your dealer
can help you with this.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If your slide-in camper and its load weigh less than the CWR, the center of
gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.
Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also
help you determine your CWR.
After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and
weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on
your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than
either
of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than
the GVWR.
Open your driver’s door and look at the door lock pillar for the
Certificatiomire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR.
If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take
out some things until
all the weights fall below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down
any loose items when
you load your vehicle or camper.
When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s
instructions.
If you want more information
on curb weights, cargo weights, cargo weight
rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer
can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper
Loading.”
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh
your vehicle with your trailer attached,
so that you won’t go over the
GVWR or the GAWR.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load
the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab
General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the
pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed.
However, we recommend that conversions of this type not be done to
pickups. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are
differences between
a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which
may affect vehicle safety. For specific information
on this pickup, contact
the GM Zone Office for your area. (See the “Warranty and Owner
Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.)
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A B
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10%
of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a
“weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12% of the
total loaded trailer weight
(B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar or
see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped
foot, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance
from the front edge
of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If
the distance is less than
12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not bolt any type of
hitch to the close-out panel. The close-out panel will not support a
hitch.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue will
not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system
except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even
lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa)
of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at
the port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
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