1993 FORD MONDEO wheel torque

11Locate one of the circlips in the outer
groove of the knuckle.
12Press or drive the new bearing into the
knuckle until it contacts the circlip, using a
length of metal tube of diameter slightly less
than the outer race. Do not apply any
pressure to the inner race.
13Locate the remaining circlip in the inner
groove of the knuckle.
14Support the inner race on a length of
metal tube, then press or drive the hub fully
into the bearing.
15Refit the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front wheel.
2Unbolt the brake hose support bracket from
the front of the suspension strut (see
illustration).
3Remove the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9, but do not disconnect the flexible
hydraulic hose from the caliper. Suspend the
caliper from a suitable point under the wheel
arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
4Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckleusing a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
5Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) from
the steering knuckle, as described in Chapter 9.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint. Disconnect
the gaiter from the CV joint housing.
7Remove the nut and disconnect the anti-roll
bar link from the strut. Note that, on models
fitted with ABS, the ABS wheel sensor wiring
support bracket is located beneath the nut
(see illustration).
8Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
9Where applicable, disconnect the adaptive
damping wiring multi-plug at the strut, and
unclip the wire.
10Support the strut and steering knuckle on
an axle stand. Working inside the engine
compartment, remove the strut cap (if fitted).
Unscrew and remove the front suspension
strut upper mounting nut, holding the piston
rod stationary with an 8 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
11Lower the suspension strut, together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle, from
under the wheel arch, withdrawing the tripod
on the inner end of the driveshaft from the CV
joint housing.12Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut (see illustrations).
Refitting
13With the clamp prised open, locate the
front suspension strut on the steering knuckle,
and refit the pinch-bolt with its head facing
forwards. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque.
14Locate the suspension strut (together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle) in its
upper mounting, and loosely screw on the
nut.
15Locate the tripod on the inner end of the
driveshaft in the CV joint housing, then
manipulate the gaiter onto the housing, and fit
a new clip.
16Where applicable, reconnect the adaptive
damping multi-plug, and fit the wire in the clip.
17Locate the lower arm balljoint fully in the
bottom of the steering knuckle. Refit the
clamp bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque.
18Reconnect the anti-roll bar link to the
strut, and tighten the nut to the specified
torque. On models fitted with ABS, do not
forget to locate the sensor wiring support
bracket beneath the nut.
19Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
20Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
21Refit the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9.
22Refit the brake hose support bracket to
the strut, and tighten the bolt.
23Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
24Tighten the suspension strut upper
mounting nut to the specified torque, while
4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
4.2 Removing the brake hose support
bracket from the front of the front
suspension strut4.7 Removing the anti-roll bar link and
ABS sensor wiring bracket4.10 Front suspension strut upper
mounting nut
4.12A Steering knuckle-to-strut pinch-bolt4.12B Releasing the knuckle from the strut
procarmanuals.com

spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.
(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted
to the piston rod seat.
(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.5If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damageto the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.
Overhaul
9Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.
7 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
6 Front anti-roll bar and links -
removal and refitting
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
6.2A Unscrew the nut . . .6.2B . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar
link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring
support bracket
7.3 One of the nuts and bolts securing the
lower arm to the subframe7.7A Unscrew the lower arm balljoint
clamp bolt . . .7.7B . . . and disconnect the balljoint from
the knuckle
procarmanuals.com

Refitting
12Locate the lower arm on the subframe,
and insert the mounting bolts. Fit the nuts and
tighten them in stages, first to the specified
torque and then through the angle specified.
13If removed, locate the tripod on the inner
end of the driveshaft in the CV joint housing,
then refit the gaiter, together with a new clip.
14Refit the front suspension lower arm
balljoint to the knuckle assembly, and insert
the clamp bolt with its head facing forwards.
Refit the nut and tighten to the specified
torque.
15Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
align the holes, making sure that the torque
wrench setting is still within the specified
range. Insert a new split pin, and bend it back
to secure.
16Swivel the anti-roll bar down, then
reconnect the links to the bar and tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
17If working on the right-hand side, refit the
auxiliary drivebelt cover where necessary.
18Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
Note:If the lower arm balljoint is worn, either
the complete lower arm or the balljoint alone
can be renewed. If the balljoint has already
been renewed, it will be bolted in position; if
the original balljoint is being renewed, then it
will be riveted in position (see illustration).
This Section describes the renewal of a
riveted balljoint.1Remove the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7. It is not recommended
that the balljoint be replaced with the lower
arm in position on the vehicle; the accurate
drilling necessary may not be possible, and
the holes in the arm may be enlarged.
2With the lower arm on the bench, use a
3 mm drill to make a pilot hole through each of
the three rivets. Now use a 9 mm drill to drill
the rivets to a depth of 12 mm, then use a 7 or
8 mm drift to drive the rivets out of the arm.
3Clean any rust or dirt from the rivet holes.
4The new balljoint is supplied with a
protective plastic cover over the rubber boot
and stub, and it is recommended that this
remains in position until it is time to connect
the balljoint to the steering knuckle.
5Locate the new balljoint on the lower arm,
and use three new bolts to secure it, inserting
the bolts from the top of the arm. Tighten the
nuts to the specified torque. Make sure that
the location lug on the balljoint engages the
hole in the lower arm (see illustration).
6Refit the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7.
Note:Removal of the rear hub damages the
bearings, and renders them unserviceable for
future use. The hub and bearing assembly
mustalways be renewed if it is removed.
Inspection
1The rear hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied complete with the hub. It is
not possible to renew the bearings separately
from the hub.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Fully release the handbrake.
3Grip the rear wheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, it is
indicative that the hub bearings are worn.
Renewal
4Remove the rear wheel.
5On models fitted with rear brake drums,
remove the rear brake drum as described in
Chapter 9.
6On models fitted with rear brake discs,
remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
7On all models, tap off the dust cap and
unscrew the hub nut. Note that the nut is of
special laminated design, and should only be
re-used a maximum of 5 times. It is a good
idea to mark the nut with a file every time it is
removed. Obtain a new one if necessary.
8Using a suitable puller, draw the hub and
bearing assembly off the stub axle. Note that
this procedure renders the bearings
unserviceable for future use.
9Locate the new rear hub and bearing
assembly on the stub axle, then refit the hub
nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
10Tap the dust cap fully onto the hub.
11Refit the rear brake disc or drum as
applicable, as described in Chapter 9.
12Refit the rear wheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
9 Rear hub and bearings
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
inspection and renewal
8 Front suspension lower arm
balljoint - renewal
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
10
7.10 Front suspension lower arm bushes
1 Front bush
2 Cylindrical inner tube3 Rear bush
4 Barrel-shaped inner tube5 Front of vehicle
8.5 Location lug (1) and bolt hole (2) in the
front suspension lower arm balljoint
8.0 Original riveted front suspension lower
arm balljoint
procarmanuals.com

Note:Removal of the rear hub from the
knuckle damages the bearings, and renders
them unserviceable for future use. The hub
and bearing assembly mustalways be
renewed if it is removed.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2When applicable, remove the ABS sensor
from the knuckle as described in Chapter 9.
3Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
Drum brake models
4Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose, then release the clip and detach the
flexible hose from the strut. Unscrew the
union nut, and detach the rigid brake pipe
from the wheel cylinder. If preferred (to
eliminate any bleeding procedure during
refitting) the rigid brake pipe may remain
attached to the wheel cylinder, provided that
care is taken to prevent damage to both the
rigid and flexible brake pipes.
5Unbolt the backplate from the rear
suspension knuckle (see illustration), and
support it to one side on an axle stand. The
brake shoes and handbrake cable can remain
attached.
Disc brake models
6Unbolt the splash shield from the rear
suspension knuckle.
All models
7Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle, and
move the tie-bar downwards.
8Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side.
9Support the knuckle on an axle stand, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut.
10Prise the top of the knuckle apart carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool, and withdrawthe knuckle downwards from the strut.
Withdraw the knuckle from under the rear
wheel arch.
Refitting
11Locate the knuckle fully on the strut, then
insert the clamp bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
12Refit the front and rear lower arms to the
knuckle, and insert the bolts finger-tight at
this stage.
13Refit the tie-bar to the bottom of the
knuckle, and insert the bolt finger-tight at this
stage.
14Refit the backplate (or splash shield, as
applicable) to the rear suspension knuckle,
and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Drum brake models
15Reconnect the rigid brake pipe to the
wheel cylinder (if disconnected), and tighten
the union nut.
16Attach the flexible hose to the strut, refit
the clip, and remove the hose clamp.
All models
17Fit a new rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
18Where applicable, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
19Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
20With the weight of the vehicle on the
suspension, fully tighten the mounting bolts
for the tie-bar and lower arms.
21Where applicable, bleed the hydraulic
brake circuit as described in Chapter 9.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained. Careful use
of conventional coil spring compressors will
prove satisfactory.
Removal
1In order to remove the rear suspension
strut, the coil spring must be temporarily
compressed. This will enable the piston rod tobe retracted into the strut, and will provide
additional room for releasing the strut from
the bump stop on top of the rear suspension
crossmember.
Warning: It is important to only
use a high-quality spring
compressor; carefully follow the
tool manufacturer’s instructions
provided with it.
2Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
3Where fitted, unclip the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut, and remove the sensor from
the knuckle as described in Chapter 9 (see
illustration).
4On models fitted with adaptive damping,
unclip the wiring from the strut and
disconnect the multi-plug (see illustration).
5On drum brake models, fit a brake hose
clamp to the rear flexible brake hose, then
unscrew the union nut securing the rigid brake
pipe to the flexible hose on the strut. Extract
the clip, and disconnect the flexible hose from
the strut.
6On models fitted with rear disc brakes,
unbolt the caliper from the knuckle as
described in Chapter 9, but leave the
hydraulic hose attached. Support the caliper
on an axle stand, making sure that the flexible
hose is not strained.
7Unscrew the nut securing the rear anti-roll
bar link to the front lower arm on the
appropriate side. Hold the actual link with an
adjustable spanner or grips while unscrewing
the nut, to prevent damage to the link joint.
8Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle. Move the
tie-bar downwards (see illustrations).
9Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side (see illustrations).
10Support the knuckle on a trolley jack, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut (see illustrations).
11Prise the clamp on the knuckle apart
using a large flat-bladed tool. Disconnect the
knuckle from the strut, and lower it on the
trolley jack as far as possible, taking care not
to damage the handbrake cable (see
illustration).
11 Rear suspension strut
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
10 Rear suspension knuckle
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
removal and refitting
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
10.5 Two of the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the rear suspension knuckle11.3 Unclipping the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut11.4 Location of the adaptive damping
lead (1) and multi-plug (2)
procarmanuals.com

Refitting
15Locate the strut assembly (together with
the coil spring compressor tool) under the
wheel arch, and locate the bracket on the
bump stop on the rear suspension
crossmember. Insert the two bolts securing
the upper mounting to the underbody tower,
and tighten them to the specified torque.
16Carefully release the coil spring
compressor tool, making sure that the spring
locates correctly in the upper and lower seats,
and that the strut bracket locates on the
crossmember bump stop. The bump stop is
tapered inwards, and the strut bracket should
be fully engaged with it before releasing the
coil spring.
17Raise the knuckle and engage it with the
strut, then insert the clamp bolt and tighten to
the specified torque.
18Reconnect the front and rear lower armsto the knuckle, and finger-tighten the bolts at
this stage.
19Reconnect the tie-bar to the bottom of the
knuckle, and finger-tighten the bolt at this
stage.
20Refit the anti-roll bar link to the lower arm,
and tighten the nut to the specified torque.
21On disc brake models, refit the caliper
bracket to the knuckle, and tighten the
mounting bolts to the specified torque (see
Chapter 9). Make sure that the flexible brake
hose is not twisted.
22On drum brake models, connect the
flexible hose to the strut, insert the clip, then
insert the rigid brake line and tighten the union
nut. Remove the brake hose clamp, then
bleed the hydraulic brake circuit as described
in Chapter 9.
23Where applicable, reconnect the wiring
multi-plug for the adaptive damping, and clip
the wiring to the strut.24Where applicable, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9, and clip the wiring to
the strut.
25Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
26With the weight of the vehicle on the rear
suspension, fully tighten the lower arm and
tie-bar mounting bolts.
1The procedure is similar to that for the front
suspension strut, and reference should be made
to Section 5. Note that the spring compressor
tools will already be in position on the coil spring
following the removal operation. Refer also to
the accompanying illustrations for details of the
separate components (see illustrations).
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts securing the anti-roll bar
links to the front lower arms on both sides.
Hold the upper part of the links with a spanner
while loosening the nuts. Recover the rubber
bushes (see illustrations).
13 Rear anti-roll bar and links
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
12 Rear suspension strut
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
overhaul
10•12 Suspension and steering systems
12.1A Rear strut dismantling - unscrew
the upper mounting nut . . .12.1B . . . remove the cup . . .12.1C . . . upper mounting bracket and
seat . . .
13.2A Loosen the nut . . .13.2B . . . remove the nut and rubber
bush . . .
12.1D . . . gaiter and bump stop . . .12.1E . . . and coil spring
13.2C . . . and remove the anti-roll bar link
from the lower arm
procarmanuals.com

3Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar
mounting clamps to the rear suspension
crossmember, then unhook the clamps and
withdraw the anti-roll bar from under the
vehicle (see illustration).
4Examine the rubber bushes for the
mounting clamps and links, and if necessary
renew them. The links are available
individually.
Refitting
5Locate the anti-roll bar on the rear
crossmember, hook the mounting clamps in
position, and insert the bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
6Locate the anti-roll bar links in the front
lower arms on both sides, making sure that
the rubber bushes are in position. Refit the
nuts and tighten them to the specified torque.
7Refit the rear wheels, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
Front lower arm
2To remove the front lower arm, it is
necessary to remove the fuel tank first. Refer
to Chapter 4 for details.
3Unscrew the nut and disconnect the anti-
roll bar link from the lower arm. Hold the
actual link with an adjustable spanner or grips
while unscrewing the nut, to prevent damage
to the link joint. Recover the rubber bush.
4Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
front lower arm to the knuckle.
5Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
front lower arm to the crossmember.
6Withdraw the front lower arm from under
the vehicle.
Rear lower arm
7Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear lower arm to the knuckle.8The bolt securing the rear lower arm to the
crossmember has an eccentric head and
spacer, which are used to adjust the rear toe
setting. Before removing this bolt, mark its
position, using a scriber or similar sharp
instrument through the aperture in the
crossmember.
9Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear lower arm to the crossmember (see
illustration). The bolt may be removed
through the aperture in the crossmember.
Recover the eccentric spacer.
10Withdraw the rear lower arm from under
the vehicle.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but the arm mounting bolts should
be finger-tightened initially, and only fully
tightened after the vehicle is lowered to the
ground, so that its weight is on the rear
suspension. Note that the rear lower arm is
marked “TOP” for correct refitting (see
illustration). The rear toe setting should be
checked, and if necessary adjusted, at the
earliest opportunity.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
tie-bar bracket on the underbody.
3Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar bracket to the rear suspension
knuckle.
4Unscrew the bolts securing the tie-bar
bracket to the underbody, and withdraw the
bracket from the vehicle (see illustration).
5Mount the bracket in a vice, then unscrew
and remove the bolt, and remove the tie-bar
from the bracket.
6It is not possible to renew the rubber
bushes - if they are worn excessively, the tie-
bar should be renewed complete.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. The bracket-to-underbody bolts
should be fully tightened to the specified
torque before lowering the vehicle. The bolts
securing the tie-bar to the bracket and
knuckle should be finger-tightened initially,
and only fully tightened after the vehicle is
lowered to the ground, so that its weight is on
the rear suspension.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension crossmember, tools to hold the
coil springs in compression must be obtained.
Careful use of conventional coil spring
compressors will prove satisfactory.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear wheels.
2Remove the complete exhaust system as
described in Chapter 4.
3Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
tie-bars to the rear suspension knuckles, and
disconnect the tie-bars.
4Unscrew the nuts securing the rear anti-roll
bar links to the front lower arms. Hold the
16 Rear suspension
crossmember
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
15 Rear suspension tie-bar
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
14 Rear suspension lower arms
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•13
10
14.11 “TOP” marking on the rear lower
arm
15.4 Tie-bar bracket on the underbody
13.3 Rear anti-roll bar mounting clamp14.9 Bolt securing the rear lower arm to
the crossmember
procarmanuals.com

actual links stationary while the nuts are being
unscrewed, to prevent damage to the joints.
Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards, and recover
the rubber bushes.
5Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel
sensor from the rear suspension knuckle as
described in Chapter 9.
6Unscrew and remove the bolts, and
disconnect both lower arms from the rear
suspension knuckle.
7To allow the rear suspension struts to be
released from the rubber stops on the top of
the crossmember, it is necessary to fit coil
spring compressor tools to both of the rear
coil springs, and compress them until all
tension is removed from the upper and lower
mountings.
Warning: It is important to only
use high-quality spring
compressors, and to carefully
follow the tool manufacturer’s
instructions provided with them. With the
compressor tools fitted, support the struts
to one side.
8Support the rear suspension crossmember
on a trolley jack, then unscrew the four
mounting bolts from the underbody (see
illustration).
9Lower the crossmember to the ground.
10Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll
bar clamps to the crossmember, then remove
the clamps and withdraw the anti-roll bar.
11Remove the lower arms from the
crossmember as described in Section 14.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ford specify the use of a special
tool (tool number 15-097) to accurately align
the crossmember onto the underbody before
tightening the mounting bolts. This tool
should be obtained if possible, since
inaccurate alignment would result in bad
handling and excessive tyre wear. The tie-bar
and arm mounting bolts should be finger-
tightened initially, and only fully tightened
after the vehicle is lowered to the ground, so
that its weight is on the rear suspension. The
rear toe setting should be checked, and if
necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity.
Inspection
1The rear hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied complete with the hub. It is
not possible to renew the bearings separately
from the hub.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,
chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Fully release the handbrake.
3Grip the rear wheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, it is
indicative that the hub bearings are worn.
Renewal
4Remove the rear wheel.
5On drum brake models, remove the rear
brake drum as described in Chapter 9.
6On disc brake models, remove the rear
brake disc as described in Chapter 9.
7Turning the hub as necessary, line up the
hole in the flange with the each of the bolts
securing the hub assembly to the rear
suspension knuckle; unscrew and remove the
bolts (see illustration).
8Withdraw the hub and bearing assembly.
Refit two of the hub mounting bolts, to hold
the backplate/splash shield in place.
9If necessary, the stub shaft may be
removed from the hub for inspection of the
bearing, by unscrewing the hub nut. Note that
the hub nut is of special laminated design,
and may only be re-used a maximum of five
times. (It is a good idea to file a small notch on
the nut every time it is removed; obtain a new
nut if necessary.) Tighten the nut on
reassembly.
10Fit the new hub and bearing assembly
using a reversal of the removal procedure.
Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel,
and release the handbrake.
2Position a trolley jack or axle stand beneath
the rear suspension lower arm, to keep the
coil spring in compression.
3Where applicable, remove the ABS sensor
as described in Chapter 9.
Drum brake models
4Remove the rear brake drum as described
in Chapter 9.
5Disconnect the flexible hydraulic brake
hose at the bracket on the rear suspension
crossmember as described in Chapter 9.
Disc brake models
6Remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
All models
7Remove the rear hub as described in
Section 17.
8Remove the backplate or splash shield, as
applicable. On drum brake models, support
the backplate assembly on an axle stand, to
prevent damage to the handbrake cable.
9Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt.
10Unscrew and remove the three bolts
securing the tie-bar to the knuckle.
11Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the front lower arm to the knuckle.
12Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the upper arm to the knuckle.
13Support the knuckle, then unscrew and
remove the bolt securing the rear lower arm to
the knuckle, and withdraw the knuckle.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but delay fully tightening the
rubber bush mounting bolts until the weight of
the vehicle is on the suspension. Tighten all
bolts to the specified torque. Where the
flexible rear brake hose was disconnected,
bleed the hydraulic system as described in
Chapter 9. Finally check, and if necessary
adjust, the rear wheel toe setting as described
in Section 36.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
19 Rear shock absorber
(Estate models) -
removal, testing and refitting
18 Rear suspension knuckle
(Estate models) -
removal and refitting
17 Rear hub and bearings
(Estate models) -
inspection and renewal
10•14 Suspension and steering systems
16.8 One of the rear suspension
crossmember mounting bolts
17.7 Mounting bolts (arrowed) for the rear
hub on Estate models
procarmanuals.com

2Position a trolley jack under the coil spring
area of the rear lower suspension arm, to
keep the coil spring in compression.
3Unscrew and remove the shock absorber
lower mounting bolt (see illustration).
4Unscrew and remove the upper mounting
bolt, and withdraw the shock absorber from
under the vehicle.
Testing
5Check the mounting rubbers for damage
and deterioration. If they are worn, they may
be renewed separately from the shock
absorber body.
6Mount the shock absorber in a vice,
gripping it by the lower mounting. Examine
the shock absorber for signs of fluid leakage.
Test the operation of the shock absorber by
moving it through a full stroke, and then
through short strokes of 50 to 100 mm. In
both cases, the resistance felt should be
smooth and continuous. If the resistance is
jerky or uneven, the shock absorber should be
renewed.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the mounting bolts to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove both rear wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and remove the washers
and bushes securing the anti-roll bar links to
the rear lower arms (see illustrations).
3Using a Torx key, unscrew the bolts
securing the anti-roll bar mounting clamps to
the rear suspension crossmember; release the
clamps, and withdraw the anti-roll bar from
under the vehicle (see illustration).
4Examine the rubber bushes for the
mounting clamps and links, and if necessary
renew them. The links are available
individually.
Refitting
5Locate the anti-roll bar on the rear
crossmember, then refit the clamps and
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
6Refit the anti-roll bar links to the rear lower
arms, together with the bushes and washers.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque, while
holding the actual links stationary in their
central position.
7Refit the rear wheels, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension coil spring, a tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be obtained.
Careful use of conventional coil spring
compressors will prove satisfactory.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
2Support the weight of the rear lower arm
beneath the coil spring position with a trolley
jack.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged), and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting.
4Unscrew the nut, and remove the washerand bush attaching the anti-roll bar link to the
rear lower arm.
5Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
rear lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
6Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
front lower arm to the knuckle (see
illustration).
7Lower the rear lower arm, and withdraw the
coil spring from under the vehicle. Take care
to keep the compressor tool in full
engagement with the coil spring (see
illustration).
8If a new coil spring is to be fitted, the
original coil spring must be released from the
compressor. If it is to be re-used, the coil
spring can be left in compression.
21 Rear coil spring (Estate
models) - removal and refitting20 Rear anti-roll bar and links
(Estate models) -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•15
10
20.3 Anti-roll bar mounting clamp on the
rear suspension crossmember21.5 Rear lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt21.6 Front lower arm-to-knuckle mounting
bolt
19.3 Rear shock absorber lower mounting
bolt (Estate)20.2A Mounting nut (arrowed) and rubber
bush securing the rear anti-roll bar link to
the rear lower arm
20.2B View of the anti-roll bar link nut
through the rear lower arm
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