1991 MITSUBISHI MONTERO fuel

Excessive cylinder wear Rebore or replace
block
Excessive valve guide Worn or loose bearing
clearance









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Gap Bridged Deposits in combustion Clean combustion
chamber becoming fused chamber of deposits
to electrode









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Blistered Engine overheating Check cooling system
Electrode
Wrong type of fuel Replace with correct
fuel
Loose spark plugs Retighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition Reset ignition timing
timing see ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Pre-Ignition or Incorrect type of fuel Replace with correct
Melted Electrodes fuel
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valves Replace valves
Engine Overheating Check cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, Replace with correct
too hot spark plug, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Chipped Severe detonation Check for over-
Insulators advanced timing or
combustion
Improper gapping Re-gap spark plugs
procedure









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Rust Colored Additives in unleaded Try different fuel
Deposits fuel brand









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Water In Combus- Blown head gasket or Repair or replace
tion Chamber cracked head head or head gasket









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NOTE: Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system, ensure that
all wiring is connected properly between distributor, wiring
connector and spark plugs. Ignition problem will show up
either as: Engine Will Not Start or Engine Runs Rough.
BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Engine Won't Open circuit between Repair circuit
Start distributor and bulkhead
connector
Open circuit between Repair circuit
bulkhead connector and

ignition switch
Open circuit between Repair circuit
ignition switch and
starter solenoid









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Engine Runs Fuel lines leaking or Tighten fitting,
Rough clogged remove restriction
Initial timing incorrect Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Centrifugal advance Repair distributor
malfunction advance
Defective spark plugs or Replace plugs or plug
wiring wiring









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Component Failure Spark arc-over on cap, Replace cap, rotor or
rotor or coil or coil
Defective pick-up coil Replace pick-up coil
Defective ignition coil Replace ignition coil
Defective vacuum unit Replace vacuum unit
Defective control module Replace control module









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BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING
CHARTS - USING OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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Firing Voltage Retarded ignition timing Reset ignition
Lines are the Same, timing, see ENGINE
but Abnormally High PERFORMANCE section
Fuel mixture too lean Readjust carburetor,
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
High resistance in coil Replace coil wire
wire
Corrosion in coil tower Clean and/or replace
terminal coil
Corrosion in distributor Clean and/or replace
coil terminal distributor cap









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Firing Voltage Fuel mixture too rich Readjust carburetor,
Lines are the Same see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
but Abnormally Low
Breaks in coil wire causing Replace coil wire
arcing
Cracked coil tower causing Replace coil
arcing
Low coil output Replace coil
Low engine compression Determine cause and

Worn or dirty needle valve Clean carburetor, see
and seat ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Float sticking Readjust or replace
float see the ENGINE
PERFORMANCE section
Incorrect choke adjustment Reset choke adjustment
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Defective coil Replace coil
Improper spark plug gap Regap spark plugs
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Detonation Over-advanced ignition Reset ignition timing
timing see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Fuel lines clogged Clean fuel lines
EGR system malfunction Check and repair EGR
system
PCV system malfunction Repair PCV system
Vacuum leaks Check and repair
vacuum system
Loose fan belts Tighten or replace
fan belts, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE
Restricted airflow Remove restriction
Vacuum advance malfunction Check distributor
operation









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Dieseling Binding carburetor linkage Eliminate binding
Binding throttle linkage Eliminate blinding
Binding choke linkage or Eliminate binding
fast idle cam
Defective idle solenoid Replace idle solenoid
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Improper base idle speed Reset idle speed, see
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Incorrect idle mixture Reset idle mixture,
setting see ENGINE PERFORMANCE









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Faulty Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
Acceleration see ENGINE PERFORMANCE

Engine cold and choke too Adjust choke and
lean allow engine to warm-
up
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Defective coil Replace coil









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Faulty Low Speed Clogged idle transfer slots Clean idle transfer
Operation slots, see FUEL
Restricted idle air bleeds Disassemble and clean
and passages carburetor, see FUEL
Clogged air cleaner Replace air filter
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Defective ignition wires Replace ignition wire
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Defective distributor cap Replace distributor
cap









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Faulty High Speed Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
Operation see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Defective distributor Replace advance
centrifugal advance mechanism
Defective distributor Replace advance unit
vacuum advance
Incorrect spark plugs or Check gap and/or
plug gap replace spark plugs
Faulty choke operation Check choke and
repair as required
Clogged vacuum passages Remove restrictions
Improper size or clogged Check jet size and
main jet clean, see FUEL
Restricted air cleaner Check filter and
replace as necessary
Defective distributor cap, Replace cap, rotor or
rotor or coil coil









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Misfire at All Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Speeds
Defective spark plug wires Replace spark plug
wires
Defective distributor cap, Replace cap, rotor,
rotor, or coil or coil
Cracked or broken vacuum Replace vacuum hoses
hoses

Vacuum leaks Repair vacuum leaks
Fuel lines clogged Remove restriction









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Hesitation Cracked or broken vacuum Replace vacuum hoses
hoses
Vacuum leaks Repair Vacuum leaks
Binding carburetor linkage Eliminate binding
Binding throttle linkage Eliminate binding
Binding choke linkage or Eliminate binding
fast idle cam
Improper float setting Readjust float
setting, see FUEL
Cracked or broken ignition Replace ignition
wires wires









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Rough idle, Incorrect curb idle or fast Reset idle speed, see
Missing or idle speed see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Stalling
Incorrect basic timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Improper idle mixture Reset idle mixture,
adjustment see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Improper feedback system Check feedback system
operation see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Incorrect spark plug gap Reset spark plug gap,
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Moisture in ignition Dry components
components
Loose or broken ignition Replace ignition
wires wires
Damaged distributor cap or Replace distributor
or rotor cap or rotor
Faulty ignition coil Replace ignition coil
Fuel filter clogged or worn Replace fuel filter
Damaged idle mixture screw Replace idle mixture
screw, see FUEL
Improper fast idle cam Reset fast idle cam
adjustment adjustment, see TUNE-
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Improper EGR valve operation Replace EGR valve
Faulty PCV valve air flow Replace PCV valve
Choke binding or improper Reset choke or
choke setting eliminate binding

Vacuum leak Repair vacuum leak
Improper float bowl fuel Reset float
level adjustment, see FUEL
Clogged air bleed or idle Clean carburetor
passages passages, see FUEL
Clogged or worn air cleaner Replace air filter
filter
Faulty choke vacuum Replace diaphragm,
diaphragm see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Exhaust manifold heat valve Replace heat valve
inoperative
Improper distributor spark Check distributor
advance operation
Leaking valves or valve Check and repair
components valvetrain
Improper carburetor Remove and remount
mounting carburetor
Excessive play in Replace distributor
distributor shaft
Loose or corroded wiring Repair or replace as
connections required









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Engine Surges Improper PCV valve airflow Replace PCV valve
Vacuum leaks Repair vacuum leaks
Clogged air bleeds Remove restriction
EGR valve malfunction Replace EGR valve
Restricted air cleaner Replace air filter
filter
Cracked or broken vacuum Replace vacuum hoses
hoses
Cracked or broken ignition Replace ignition
wires wires
Vacuum advance malfunction Check unit and
replace as necessary
Defective or fouled spark Replace spark plugs
plugs









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Ping or Spark Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
Knock see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Distributor centrifugal or Check operation and
vacuum advance malfunction replace as necessary
Carburetor setting too lean Readjust mixture

setting, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE
Vacuum leak Eliminate vacuum leak
EGR valve malfunction Replace EGR valve









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Poor Gasoline Cracked or broken vacuum Replace vacuum hoses
Mileage hoses
Vacuum leaks Repair vacuum leaks
Defective ignition wires Replace wires
Incorrect choke setting Readjust setting, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Defective vacuum advance Replace vacuum advance
Defective spark plugs Replace spark plugs
Binding carburetor power Eliminate binding
piston
Dirt in carburetor jets Clean and/or replace
jets
Incorrect float adjustment Readjust float
setting, see FUEL
Defective power valve Replace power valve,
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Incorrect idle speed Readjust idle speed









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Engine Stalls Improper float level Readjust float level
Leaking needle valve and Replace needle valve
seat and seat
Vacuum leaks Eliminate vacuum
leaks









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VACUUM PUMP - DIESEL TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: Diesel engines mechanical diagnosis is the same as gasoline
engines for items such as noisy valves, bearings, pistons,
etc. The following trouble shooting covers only items
pertaining to diesel engines.
VACUUM PUMP (DIESEL) TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART









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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION








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The noid light is an excellent "quick and dirty" tool. It can
usually be hooked to a fuel injector harness fast and the flashing
light is easy to understand. It is a dependable way to identify a no-
pulse situation.
However, a noid light can be very deceptive in two cases:
* If the wrong one is used for the circuit being tested.
Beware: Just because a connector on a noid light fits the
harness does not mean it is the right one.
* If an injector driver is weak or a minor voltage drop is
present.
Use the Right Noid Light
In the following text we will look at what can happen if the
wrong noid light is used, why there are different types of noid lights
(besides differences with connectors), how to identify the types of
noid lights, and how to know the right type to use.
First, let's discuss what can happen if the incorrect type of
noid light is used. You might see:
* A dimly flashing light when it should be normal.
* A normal flashing light when it should be dim.
A noid light will flash dim if used on a lower voltage
circuit than it was designed for. A normally operating circuit would
appear underpowered, which could be misinterpreted as the cause of a
fuel starvation problem.
Here are the two circuit types that could cause this problem:
* Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately
on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the
available voltage to an injector in order to limit the
current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a
noid light designed for full voltage.
* Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak
and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick
burst of voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back
significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration.
If a noid light was designed for the other type of driver
(voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim
because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow for the
entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes
normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive
noid light is used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was
weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit\
with an actual problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to
consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a
partial driver failure or a minor voltage drop in the injector
circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid
light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of
corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the
starter motor will not operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on
the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they
light normally and are fully bright. This is the same idea as noid
light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the
headlights ("noid light"), but not the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using
the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding