1988 OPEL CALIBRA oil pressure

3
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, with remote expansion tank. Coolant pump driven by
timing belt
Coolant
Type/specification (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Lubricants and fluidsin “Weekly checks”
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Thermostat
Starts to open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92°C
Fully open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107°C
Operating temperature (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C
Expansion tank cap
Opening pressure (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.35 bar
Boiling point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125°C
Cooling fan switch
Switches on at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C
Switches off at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95°C
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pump bolts:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models
(except C16 NZ2), (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Outlet to thermostat housing,
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8
Thermostat housing to cylinder head:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Coolant mixture - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cooling fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cooling fan switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Expansion tank and coolant level sensor - removal and refitting . . . .13
Facia ventilation nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Heater control panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Radiator (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .7
Radiator (manual transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Radiator - inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Temperature gauge sender - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Thermostat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Thermostat - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1General description
Engine cooling is achieved by a
conventional pump-assisted system, in which
the coolant is pressurised. The system
consists of a radiator, a coolant pump driven
by the engine timing belt, an electric cooling
fan, a thermostat, an expansion tank, and
connecting hoses. Hoses also carry coolant to
and from the heater matrix, which provides
heat for the ventilation and heating system.
The system works in the following way.
Cold coolant from one side of the radiator,
which is mounted at the front of the engine
compartment, passes to the coolant pump,
which forces the coolant through the coolant
passages in the cylinder block and cylinder
head. The coolant absorbs heat from the
engine, and then returns to the radiator
through the heater matrix. As the coolant
flows across the radiator it is cooled, and the
cycle is repeated.
Air flows through the radiator, to cool the
coolant as a result of the vehicle’s forward
motion. However, if the coolant temperature
exceeds a given figure, a
temperature-sensitive switch in the radiator
switches on the electric fan, to increase the
airflow through the radiator. The fan only
operates when necessary, with a consequent
reduction in noise and energy consumption.
To reduce the time taken for the engine to
warm up when starting from cold, the
thermostat, located in the cylinder head
outlet, prevents coolant flowing to the radiator
until the temperature has risen sufficiently.
Instead, the outflow from the cylinder head
bypasses the radiator, and is redirected
around the engine. When the temperature
reaches a given figure, the thermostat opens,
to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. The
thermostat is operated by the expansion of a
temperature sensitive wax capsule.
An expansion tank is incorporated in the
system, to allow for coolant expansion. The
system is topped up through a filler cap on
the expansion tank.
Note that later models may be fitted with
self-tensioning spring clamps to secure the
cooling system (including heater) hoses.
These clamps can be released by squeezing
together their free ends using a large pair of
self-grip pliers or similar so that the clamp can
be moved up the hose, clear of the union.
Check that the clamp is securely seated, and
check for leaks on reassembly.
2Cooling system -draining
2
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is warm, cover the filler cap with a
thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly, to
gradually relieve the system pressure. Take
care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant
escaping from the pressurised system.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, with reference to Chapter 11.
3Position a container beneath the radiator
bottom hose connection, then slacken the
hose clip and ease the hose from the radiator
stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed
for some time, it will be necessary to
manipulate the hose to break the joint. Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
4As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, and
the radiator bottom hose may be situated
halfway up the radiator, the system cannot be
drained completely. Care should therefore be
taken when refilling the system to maintain
antifreeze strength.
5If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used.
6If the coolant has been drained for renewal,
and is badly contaminated, the coolant
system should be flushed as described in
Section 4. As the system cannot be drained
completely, it is advisable to flush the system
whenever the coolant is renewed, to minimise
the impurities remaining in the system.
3Cooling system -flushing
2
1If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time the cooling system will gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits
and other sediment. To restore coolant
system efficiency, it is necessary to flush the
system clean.
2The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.
3To flush the radiator, disconnect the top
hose at the radiator, then insert a garden hose
into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of
clean water through the radiator, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom outlet (the bottom hose
should have been disconnected to drain the
system). If after a reasonable period, the water
still does not run clear, the radiator can be
flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and flush
the radiator in reverse.
4To flush the engine, continue as follows.
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2)
5Remove the thermostat as described in
Section 9, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
6With the radiator top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator top hose.
7On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat, and reconnect the hoses.
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models
8Remove the thermostat and cover
assembly, as described in Section 9.
9With the radiator bottom hose
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the thermostat housing. It is
advisable to place a sheet of plastic under the
thermostat housing to deflect water away
from the engine and surrounding components
during the flushing process.
10On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and cover assembly, reconnect
the hoses and remove the sheet of plastic.
4Cooling system -filling
2
1Before attempting to fill the cooling system,
make sure that all hoses and clips are in good
condition, and that the clips are tight. Note
that an antifreeze mixture must be used all
year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy
engine components -refer to Section 5.
2On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), disconnect the wire and unscrew the
coolant temperature sender from the inlet
manifold.
3Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill the
system by slowly pouring the coolant into the
expansion tank to prevent air locks from
forming.
4If the coolant is being renewed, begin by
pouring in a couple of pints of water, followed
by the correct quantity of antifreeze (see
Section 5), then top-up with more water.
5On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), refit the coolant temperature sender
when coolant free of air bubbles emerges
from the orifice in the inlet manifold.
6Top-up the coolant level to the “COLD” (or
“KALT”) mark on the expansion tank, then refit
the expansion tank cap.
7Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool.
8Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
When renewing any hoses,
use a little soapy water as a
lubricant, or soften the hose
in hot water. Do not use oil or
grease, as this may attack the rubber.

REF•6Tools and Working Facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler gauges
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor

REF•10MOTTest Checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

MOTTest Checks REF•11
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
REF

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

The pages that follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems that may occur during the operation of the vehicle.
These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings
denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling
system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section that deals with the problem is
also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles
apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Do not overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle will not start,
is there petrol in the tank? (Do not take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and do not trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
was not simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.
Do not take anything for granted. Particularly, do not forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months). Also do not leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you will probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
MBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
MDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
MDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
MStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2A and 5).
MEngine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates, but will not start
MFuel tank empty.
MBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly), (Chapter 5).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
MBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MChoke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -
carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFaulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
MMajor mechanical failure (e.g. camshaft drive), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Engine difficult to start when cold
MBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MChoke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -
carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
MOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
Engine difficult to start when hot
MAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
MChoke mechanism incorrectly adjusted, worn or sticking -
carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
MLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in
engagement
MStarter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2A and 5).
MStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
MStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
MLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body or inlet manifold
(Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine idles erratically
MAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MTiming belt incorrectly tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine misfires at idle speed
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
MDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (where applicable),
(Chapter 1).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MDisconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4C).
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed
range
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
MDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (where applicable),
(Chapter 1).
Fault Finding REF•13
REF
Engine

MFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine stalls
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine lacks power
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
MBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
MClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
MLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
MFaulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 12).
MWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A).
MOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A).
Engine runs-on after switching off
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MFaulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Whistling or wheezing noises
MLeaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket
(Chapter 4A or 4B).
MLeaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapter 4C).
MLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 5, 9 and 12).
MBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Tapping or rattling noises
MWorn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
Knocking or thumping noises
MWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MPiston slap (most noticeable when cold), (Chapter 2A).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
REF•14Fault Finding
Engine (continued)