1988 OPEL CALIBRA jump cable

1General information and
precautions
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid type battery, which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with engine.
Information on the battery, alternator and
starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.
It should be noted that, before working on
any component in the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of
electrical short-circuits and/or fires.
Whenever the occasion arises, carefully
check the routing of the wiring harness,
ensuring that it is correctly secured by the
clips or ties provided so that it cannot chafe
against other components. Carefully check
points such as the clutch cable bracket,
clutch housing and harness support bracket,
the inlet manifold, the horn mounting bracket,
the starter motor terminals, and the rear
bumper and number plate lamp.
If evidence is found of the harness having
chafed against other components, repair the
damage and ensure that the harness is
secured or protected so that the problem
cannot occur again.
2Electrical fault-finding -
general information
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to
Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.
The following tests relate to testing of the main
electrical circuits, and should not be used to
test delicate electronic circuits (such as anti-
lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control module is used.
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting
whether other components related to the
circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked,
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include the following:
a)a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb
with a set of test leads can also be used
for certain tests).
b)a self-powered test light (sometimes
known as a continuity tester).
c)an ohmmeter (to measure resistance).
d)a battery.
e)a set of test leads.
f)a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit
breaker or fuse incorporated, which can
be used to bypass suspect wires or
electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either
the negative battery terminal or a known good
earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that the section of the
circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components that draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).
Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that there is a short-
circuit.
If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates
an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” (the metal of the
engine/transmission and the car body), and
most systems are wired so that they only
receive a positive feed. The current returning
through the metal of the car body. This means
that the component mounting and the body
form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded
mountings can therefore cause a range of
electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when
another circuit sharing the same earth point is
in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the
radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly,
and the operation of one circuit may have an
affect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-
12•2Body electrical systems
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual, and
in Chapter 5.
Caution:If the radio/cassette player fitted
to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft
security code, as the standard unit is, refer
to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system
- precaution”in the Reference Section of
this manual before disconnecting the
battery.

Apply a little grease to the threads of the
securing bolt, and tighten it to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations. Ensure that the thrustwasher is in
place under the bolt head, and prevent the
crankshaft from turning as during removal.
23Refit the camshaft sprockets. Ensure that
the locating pins on the ends of the camshafts
engage with the holes in the sprockets and
with the sprocket timing marks facing
forwards. Then tighten the securing bolts to
the specified torque in the two stages given in
the Specifications. Prevent the camshafts
from turning as during removal.
24Check the condition of the camshaft
cover rubber gasket and renew if necessary,
then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
securing bolts (see illustration).
25Refit the HT leads to the spark plugs
(ensuring that they are refitted to their correct
cylinders), then clip the leads to the end of the
camshaft cover. Refit the spark plug cover
and tighten the securing bolts.
26Reconnect the breather hose to the
camshaft cover.
27Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and ensure that the crankshaft pulley and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 6. Then fit a
new timing belt around the sprockets and
pulleys, starting at the crankshaft sprocket.
28Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque. If
necessary, prevent the crankshaft from
turning as during removal. 29Adjust the timing belt tension, as
described from paragraph 35 onwards.
30Refit the outer timing belt cover, ensuring
that the rubber grommets are in place in the
screw holes, and tighten the securing screws.
31Refit the alternator drivebelt and adjust
the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter
5.
32Refit the power steering pump drivebelt
and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described
in Chapter 10.
33Refit the air cleaner components as
applicable, referring to Chapter 4B, if
necessary.
34Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Adjustment
Note: The manufacturers specify the use of
special adjustment wrench Vauxhall tool No
KM-666 for adjusting the timing belt tension. If
access to this tool cannot be obtained an
approximate adjustment can be achieved
using the method described in this Section.
However it is emphasised that the vehicle
should be taken to a dealer at the earliest
possible opportunity to have the tension
adjusted using the special tool. Do not drive
the vehicle over any long distance until the
belt tension has been adjusted by a dealer
Approximate adjustment
35No checking of timing belt adjustment is
specified, and the following adjustment
procedure applies to a newly fitted belt. The
adjustment must be carried out with the
engine cold.36With the timing belt cover removed and
the tensioner pulley bolt slackened, ensure
that the TDC marks on the camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft pulley are
aligned as described in paragraph 6. If
necessary, turn the crankshaft to achieve
alignment.
37Have an assistant press the tensioner
pulley against the belt until the belt can just be
twisted through 45°, using moderate pressure
with the thumb and forefinger, on the longest
belt run between the exhaust camshaft
sprocket and the belt idler pulley.
38Have the assistant hold the tensioner
pulley in position, and tighten the tensioner
pulley bolt to the specified torque in the two
stages given in the Specifications.
39Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete revolutions, and check that,
with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned
with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover,
the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the notches in the camshaft
cover.
40Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to
34, inclusive.
41Have the belt tension adjusted by a
Vauxhall dealer using the manufacturer’s
special tool at the earliest opportunity.Adjustment using Vauxhall special
tool (KM-666)
42Proceed as described in paragraphs 35
and 36.
43Fit the special tool KM-666 to the belt
tensioner pulley mounting plate, in
accordance with the tool manufacturer’s
instructions.
44Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket, mark
the seventh tooth on the sprocket (see
illustration).
45Turn the crankshaft clockwise until this
tooth is aligned with the TDC notch in the
camshaft cover. The crankshaft must be
turned evenly and without jerking, to prevent
the timing belt from jumping off the sprockets
and pulleys.
46Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the
specified torque in the two stages given in the
Specifications.
47Remove the special tool.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•5
4.21 Belt tensioner pulley and spacer
sleeve. Note that smaller diameter of
spacer sleeve fits against pulley
4.44 Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket,
mark the seventh tooth on the sprocket4.24 Tightening a camshaft cover securing
bolt
4.19B Rear timing belt cover lower right-
hand securing bolt4.19A Timing belt outer cover screw upper
stud (1) and rear belt cover upper
securing bolts (2)
2B

(without jerking it or the belt may jump a
tooth), through 2 complete revolutions (720°)
clockwise, until the camshaft and crankshaft
sprocket timing marks are once again aligned
as described in paragraph 13. The position of
the coolant pump must not alter.
12Slacken the timing belt by turning the
coolant pump anti-clockwise until the
tensioner’s indicator pointer is in the centre of
its baseplate notch; the timing belt tension is
then correct (see illustration). Tighten the
coolant pump bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting (see Chapter 3), then turn the
crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise and recheck the setting.
13If the pointer and notch are not aligned,
the operation must be repeated from
paragraph 7. On completion, refit all
components removed.
13Timing belt cover aperture,
1.4 and 1.6 models - general
General
The rear timing belt cover fitted to 1991 and
1992 model year 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines,
incorporates a small aperture just above the
oil pump housing. In certain circumstances, it
is possible for foreign objects, such as gravel,
to penetrate through this aperture and cause
the timing belt to jump a tooth on its
sprockets. For this reason, it is desirable to
cover the aperture to prevent the possibility of
this occurrence. A modified cover without an
aperture was introduced for 1993 models.
A piece of suitably moulded sponge rubber
(P/N 90469594), is available from Vauxhall
dealers to enable the aperture to be covered.
On models without power steering, the
sponge rubber can be inserted into the cover
aperture from above. If power steering is
fitted, the sponge rubber is inserted into place
from below. If access is difficult, particularly if
the drivebelt is of the ribbed V-belt type, it
may be easier to remove the alternator/power
steering pump drivebelt as described in
Chapter 5. Refit, and where applicable adjust,
the belt tension on completion.
14Timing belt and tensioner C16
NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1An alternative type of spring loaded
automatic timing belt tensioner is fitted to
these engines, from 1993 onward (see
illustration). The tensioner assembly is similar
to other automatic tensioners, but the removal
and refitting procedures vary as follows.
2The timing belt main outer cover may be
secured either by clips or by hexagon-headed
screws to the rear cover; in some cases, a
combination of clips and screws may be used.
3To release the belt tension before removal,
unscrew the timing belt tensioner securing
bolt slightly then, with a tool inserted in the
slot on the tensioner arm, turn the tensioner
arm until the timing belt is slack. If necessary,remove completely and examine the tensioner
as described in Section 12.
Refitting
4Refit the tensioner into position and tighten
the securing bolt slightly.
5Ensure that the coolant pump is correctly
positioned by checking that the lug on the
coolant pump flange is aligned with the
corresponding lug on the cylinder block. If this
is not the case, slacken the coolant pump
mounting bolts slightly and move the pump
accordingly (see Chapter 3). Tighten the bolts
to the specified torque on completion.
6Refit the timing belt then tension it as
follows.
Adjustment
7Slacken the automatic tensioner securing
bolt and move the tensioner arm anti-
clockwise, until the tensioner pointer lies at its
stop. Tighten the tensioner securing bolt to
hold the tensioner in this position.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•17
12.12 Timing belt tension is correct when
the tensioner indicator pointer aligns with
the centre of the baseplate notch12.9B . . . and stamped line (A) on
camshaft sprocket with timing belt rear
cover notch (B)12.9A Align punch mark (A) on crankshaft
sprocket with timing belt rear
cover notch (B) . . .
2A
14.1 Timing belt automatic tensioner details (alternative type)
A Alignment lugs on coolant pump and cylinder block
B Tensioner pointer aligned with notch in tensioner bracket
1 Move the tensioner arm anti-clockwise to release the belt tension
2 Move the tensioner arm clockwise to tension the belt

Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Do not
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.
Fluid leakage
MAutomatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
onto the transmission by airflow.
MTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan or “sump” (Chapter 1 and 7B).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1 and 7B).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
MTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
MChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
that may be caused by a poorly adjusted cable:a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
MRefer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
MLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MIncorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists,
professional help will be necessary.
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
MLack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8).
MWorn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).
REF•16Fault Finding
Automatic transmission
Driveshafts
Noisy in neutral with engine running
MInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed), (Chapter 7A).*
MClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released), (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
MWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
MClutch fault (Chapter 6).
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
MWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
MLack of oil (Chapter 1).
MWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
MLeaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7A).
MLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
MLeaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A).*
* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition.
This should enable the owner can communicate clearly with a
professional mechanic.
Manual transmission

REF•22Glossary of Technical Terms
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
FFan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold
Feeler blade
Adjusting spark plug gap
Gasket
EGR valve

oil and filter renewal - 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
oil cooler - 2B•10
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•28, 2B•9
piston rings - 2A•30
piston/connecting rod - 2A•29
removal - 2A•8, 2B•3
SOHC - 2A•1 et seq
sump - 2A•27, 2B•9
timing belt - 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
undershield - 11•13
valve lifters - 2A•24, 2B•9
valves - 2A•5, 2B•2
Environmental considerations- REF•4
Exhaust manifold- 4C•5
Exhaust system check- 1•11, 4C•5
Expansion tank- 3•5
FFan (radiator)- 3•5
Fault diagnosis- REF•12 et seq
automatic transmission - REF•12, REF•16
braking system - REF•12, REF•17
clutch - REF•12, REF•15
cooling system - REF•12, REF•15
driveshafts - REF•12, REF•16
electrical system - REF•12, REF•18
engine - REF•12, REF•13
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•15
manual transmission - REF•12, REF•16
steering - REF•12, REF•17
suspension - REF•12, REF•17
Flexplate (automatic transmission)- 2A•26
Flushing (cooling system)- 3•2
Flywheel- 2A•26
Foglamp- 12•11
Fuel and exhaust (carburettor) systems-
4A•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust (fuel injection) systems-
4B•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - emissions-
4C•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems:
accelerator cable - 4A•5
accelerator pedal - 4A•5
air box - 4B•5
air cleaner - 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
air pump/cut off valve - 4C•2
air temperature control - 4B•5
airflow meters - 4B•12
automatic choke - 4A•9
carbon canister - 4C•4
carburettor - 4A•5, 4A•11
catalytic converter - 4C•3
control unit - 4B•16
depressurising fuel system - 4B•5
EGR components - 4C•2
exhaust manifold - 4C•5
exhaust system check - 1•11, 4C•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filler cap - 11•13
fuel filters - 1•3, 1•14, 4B•6
fuel flow damper - 4B•8
fuel injector(s) - 4B•13
fuel level sender unit - 4A•4, 4B•8
fuel pressure regulator - 4B•10
fuel pump - 4A•3, 4B•6fuel tank - 4A•4, 4B•7
fuel vapour separator - 4A•4
idle speed/mixture adjustment - 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
inlet manifold - 4A•12, 4B•17
knock sensor - 4B•17
lambda sensor - 4C•4
manifolds - 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
mixture (CO) - 4A•7, 4A•12, 4B•9
oxygen sensor - 4C•4
Pierburg 2E3 - 4A•5
potentiometer - 4B•12, 4B•16
throttle cable - 4A•5
throttle pedal - 4A•5
Fuses- 12•1, 12•3
GGear selector linkage- 7A•2
Gearbox - see Manual or Automatic
transmission
Gearbox oil- 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
Gearchange lever- 7A•3
Glass- 11•9
Glossary of technical terms- REF•20
Glove compartment- 11•18
HHandbrake adjustment- 9•18
Handbrake cables- 9•19
Handbrake lever- 9•20
Handles (door)- 11•7
Hazard warning switch- 12•4
Headlamp alignment- 12•10
Headlamp unit- 12•9
Headlining- 11•19
Heater blower motor switch- 12•4
Heater control panel- 3•6
Heater matrix- 3•7
Heating systems- 3•1 et seq
Horn- 12•8
Hose and fluid leak check- 0•9, 1•9
Hoses brake- 9•18
IIdle speed/mixture/adjustment- 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
Ignition coil- 5•9
Ignition switch- 12•3
Ignition system- 5•2
Igniton timing- 5•2, 5•13
Indicator lamps- 12•11
Indicator switch- 12•4
Injector(s)- 4B•13
Inlet manifold- 4A•12, 4B•17
Input shaft (clutch) oil seal- 7A•4
Instrument panel- 12•6
Interior lamps- 12•8
Interior trim panels- 11•14
Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier- 0•4
JJacking and vehicle support- REF•5
Jump starting- 0•7
KKickdown switch - 7B•3
Knock sensor- 4B•17
LLambda sensor- 4C•4
Lamps- 12•8, 12•9
Leaks- 0•9, 1•9
Light switch- 12•4
Locks bonnet- 11•4
Locks door- 11•8
Locks tailgate- 11•6
Lubricants and fluids- 0•17
MMain and big-end bearings- 2A•31
Maintenance - see Routine maintenance
Maintenance schedule- 1•4
Manifolds- 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
Manual transmission- 7A•1 et seq
differential bearing oil seals - 7A•3
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gear selector linkage - 7A•2
gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
gearchange lever - 7A•3
input shaft (clutch) oil seal - 7A•4
overhaul -7A•5
removal and refitting - 7A•4
reversing lamp switch - 7A•6
speedometer drive - 7A•6
Master cylinder (brake)- 9•13
Mirrors- 11•11
Mixture (CO)- 4A•7, 4B•9
MOT test checks- REF•8
Mountings (engine/transmission)- 2A•12,
2B•3
NNumber plate lamp- 12•11
OOil change- 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
Oil cooler- 2B•10
Oil filter- 1•2, 1•9
Oil pressure warning lamp switch- 12•5
Oil pump- 2A•28, 2B•9
Oil seals:
differential bearing - 7A•3
general - REF •4
camshaft - 2A•18, 2B•6
crankshaft - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Oils- 0•17, 1•2
Open-circuit, finding - 12•2
Oxygen sensor- 4C•4
PPads (brake)- 9•4
Paintwork damage- 11•2
Parts- REF•3
Pedals
brake - 9•21
clutch - 6•3
throttle - 4A•5
REF•26Index