1988 OPEL CALIBRA light

4Remove the seven trim panel securing
screws that are located along the bottom
edge of the door, and around the bottom
edge of the armrest/hand grip. Release the
door pocket clip, which is located below and
to the rear of the door pocket, out of view.
5The remaining nine plastic clips securing
the trim panel to the door must now be
released. This can be done using a
screwdriver, but it is preferable to use a
forked tool, to minimise the possibility of
damage to the trim panel and the clips. The
clips are located around the outer edge of the
trim panel.
6Once the clips have been released, pull the
trim panel away from the door, and push the
large clip at the rear of the door pocket
rearwards to allow the trim panel to be
withdrawn.
7When working on the driver’s door of
models with electric door mirrors, it will be
necessary to disconnect the mirror switch
wiring connectors as the trim panel is
withdrawn. Disconnect the battery negative
lead before disconnecting the connector, and
note the position of the connector in the
bracket at the top of the door (see
illustration).
8Similarly on models with door-mounted
kerb lights, prise out the lamp and disconnect
the wiring.
9The plastic insulating sheet can be removed
from the door after removing the loudspeaker
(referring to Chapter 12 if necessary), and the
door trim panel rear securing clip, which is
attached to the door by a single screw. Take
care not to damage the sheet.10The door pocket can be removed from the
door trim panel by the three securing screws
that are accessible from the rear of the trim
panel, and releasing the single clip.
11If desired, the door assist handle can be
prised free from the door trim panel. Take
care not to damage the securing clips.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13If the plastic insulating sheet has been
removed from the door make sure that it is
refitted intact, and securely glued to the door.
If the sheet is damaged or detached,
rainwater may leak into the vehicle or damage
the door trim.
14Where applicable, ensure that the door
mirror switch wiring connector is correctly
positioned in its bracket before refitting the
trim panel.
15Ensure that all the trim panel securing
clips engage as the panel is refitted, and if any
of the clips were broken during removal,
renew them on refitting.
Rear door
Removal
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3
inclusive.
17On models with a door-mounted electric
window operating switch, disconnect the
battery negative lead, then carefully prise the
switch from the door trim panel and
disconnect the wiring plug.
18Remove the three trim panel securing
screws. Two are located under the interior
handle surround, and the third is situated at
the base of the door assist handle.
19Proceed as described in paragraph 5.
20Once the securing clips have been
released, pull the trim panel away from the
door (see illustration).
21If desired, the plastic insulating sheet can
be removed from the door by peeling it back
from the door skin. Take care not to damage
the sheet.
22If desired, the door assist handle can be
prised free from the door trim panel. Take
care not to damage the securing clips.
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.24If the plastic insulating sheet has been
removed from the door, make sure that it is
refitted intact, and securely glued to the door.
If the sheet is damaged or detached,
rainwater may leak into the vehicle or damage
the door trim.
25Where applicable, ensure that the electric
window switch wiring is routed so that it does
not foul the window regulator mechanism.
26Ensure that all the trim panel securing
clips engage as the panel is refitted, and if any
of the clips were broken during removal,
renew them on refitting.
18Door interior handle -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel, as
described in Section 17.
2Slide the handle assembly rearwards to free
it from the door, then unhook the operating
rod, and withdraw the assembly.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
check the mechanism for satisfactory
operation before refitting the door inner trim
panel, then refit the trim panel with reference
to Section 17.
19Door exterior handle -
removal and refitting
3
Front door
Removal
1Remove the door inner trim panel, as
described in Section 17.
2Peel back the plastic insulating sheet
sufficiently to gain access to the exterior
handle.
3Unscrew the two nuts securing the exterior
handle to the door.
4When working on the driver’s door of
models with central locking, unclip the
microswitch from the rear edge of the exterior
handle assembly.
5Release the two lower retaining clips, then
manipulate the exterior handle assembly
through the outside of the door, and
disconnect the operating rods.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
the operation of the mechanism before
refitting the door inner trim panel, and refit the
trim panel with reference to Section 17.
Rear door
Removal
7Fully lower the window, then continue as
described in paragraphs 1 and 2.
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
17.20 Removing a rear door inner trim
panel17.7 Mirror switch wiring connector in
bracket at top of door
17.3 Remove the plastic surround from the
door interior handle
11

Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the column switch gaiters
engage in the cut-outs in the upper shroud.
Instrument panel lower trim
panel
Removal
12Remove the steering column shrouds, as
described previously in this Section.
13The panel is secured by clips at either
end, which must be released by pulling the
ends of the panel from the facia (see
illustration). This is a tricky operation, as to
release both ends, the panel must be bent
slightly at its centre. Take great care, as the
panel is easily broken.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Instrument panel upper trim
panel
Removal
15Remove the instrument panel lower trim
panel, as described previously in this Section.
16Extract the two now-exposed lower trim
panel securing screws, one from each end of
the panel, noting that the left-hand screw also
secures the heater control panel (see
illustration).
17Withdraw the panel from the facia (see
illustration).
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Lighting switch panel
Removal
19Remove the instrument panel upper and
lower trim panels, as described previously in
this Section.
20Remove the remaining securing screw
from the left-hand side of the lighting switch
panel (see illustration).
21Pull the lighting switch panel from the
facia, to release the securing clips at the
right-hand end.
22Ensure that the battery negative lead has
been disconnected, then disconnect the
wiring plugs from the switches, and withdraw
the switch panel (see illustration).
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Radio/oddments tray panel
Removal
24Remove the radio, as described in
Chapter 12.
25Remove the lower and upper instrument
panel trim panels, as described previously in
this Section.
26Remove the lower securing screw from
the right-hand side of the heater control
panel.
27Remove the clock or trip computer, as
applicable, from the facia referring to Chapter
12, if necessary.
28Remove the two now-exposed heater
control panel securing screws from the
clock/trip computer aperture.
29Carefully manipulate the heater control
panel forwards within the limits of the control
cable travel, then manipulate the
radio/oddments tray out from the facia. This is
a tricky operation, as the radio/oddments tray
securing lugs rest behind the heater control
panel securing lugs (see illustrations). Take
care not to strain the heater control cables.
30With the radio/oddments tray removed,
the radio support tray can be removed if
desired by unscrewing the two securing
screws, then sliding the tray forwards to
disconnect the wiring and aerial plugs (see
illustrations).
Refitting
31Refitting is a reversal of removal, taking
care not to damage the heater control
components as the radio/oddments tray is
manipulated into position.
Bodywork and fittings 11•17
37.17 Withdrawing the instrument panel
upper trim panel
37.29B Manipulating the radio/oddments
tray from the facia37.29A Right-hand securing lug (arrowed)
behind heater control panel37.22 Disconnecting the wiring plugs from
the lighting switches
37.20 Removing the lower left-hand
lighting switch panel securing screw
37.16 Unscrewing the left-hand instrument
panel upper trim panel securing screw37.13 Removing the instrument panel
lower trim panel
11

4Pull the cassette storage box or the rubber
mat, as applicable, from the rear of the centre
console to expose the rear securing screw
(see illustration).
5Extract the rear securing screw (see
illustration), then withdraw the rear centre
console section upwards, feeding the gaiter
over the handbrake lever.
6Where applicable, ensure that the battery
negative lead has been disconnected, then
disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the electric
window and/or trip computer switches.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Front section
Removal
8Remove the rear centre console section, as
described previously in this Section.
9Remove the gearchange lever, as described
in Chapters 7A or 7B, as applicable. 10Disconnect the battery negative lead, if
not already done.
11Pull the ashtray assembly from the centre
console, and disconnect the wiring plugs from
the cigarette lighter (see illustration).
12Extract the two now-exposed screws
securing the centre console to the facia (see
illustration).
13Working at either side of the centre
console, remove the two lower centre
console-to-facia securing screws, and the two
centre console-to-floor bracket securing
screws (see illustration).
14The front centre console section can now
be withdrawn.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, but feed
the cigarette lighter wiring through the
aperture in the centre console as the centre
console is offered into position.
39Headlining -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the sunroof
crank drive, as described in Section 34.
2Remove the grab handles from the sides of
the roof (see illustration).
3Remove the sunvisors. On models with
illuminated sunvisor vanity mirrors,
disconnect the battery negative lead, then pull
the lamp wiring from the roof as the sunvisor
is withdrawn and disconnect the wiring plugs.
4On models without a sunroof, disconnect
the battery negative lead (if not already done),
then prise the courtesy lamp and its trim panel
from the roof and disconnect the wiring.
5Open the doors, and prise the
weatherstrips from the tops of the door
apertures.
6Remove the front body pillar and centre
body pillar trim panels, as described in
Section 36.
7Loosen the upper edge of the rear quarter
trim panels, referring to Section 36 if
necessary.
8On Hatchback models, open the tailgate,
and prise the rear trim panel from the roof.
9With the help of an assistant, lower the
headlining from the roof, and withdraw it
through the tailgate on Hatchback models or
through one of the door apertures on Saloon
models.
Bodywork and fittings 11•19
38.4 Pull the cassette storage box from
the console . . .
38.12 Extract the two centre console-to-
facia securing screws38.11 Disconnecting the wiring plugs from
the cigarette lighter
38.3 Pull the grip from the handbrake lever38.2 . . . then extract the front securing
screw
11
38.5 . . . then extract the rear securing
screw
38.13 Unscrewing a side centre console-
to-facia securing screw39.2 Removing a grab handle securing
screw

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

4Front disc pads - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the front roadwheel bolts and
apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members.
2Remove the roadwheels. Turn the steering to
full right-hand lock, and check the wear of the
friction material on the right-hand brake pads.
Check that the thickness of the friction material
(including the backing plate) is not less than the
minimum given in the Specifications.
3Turn the steering to full left-hand lock, and
check the left-hand brake pads in the same
way.
4If any brake pad is worn below the specified
minimum thickness, renew all the front pads
as a set.
5If the pads require renewal, continue as
follows according to model.
Removal
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models
6Note how the anti-rattle springs are located
(see illustration), then drive the upper and
lower pad retaining pins out from the inboard
side of the caliper, using a pin punch.
7Remove the anti-rattle springs (see
illustration).
8Push the pads away from the disc slightly,
then using a pair of pliers, withdraw the
outboard pad (see illustration).
9Withdraw the inboard pad, and the shim
that fits between the pad and the caliper
piston (see illustration).
Refitting
10Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
but take care not to inhale it. Carefully remove
any rust from the edge of the brake disc.11To accommodate the new thicker pads,
the caliper piston must be depressed fully into
its cylinder bore, using a flat bar of metal such
as a tyre lever. The action of depressing the
piston will cause the fluid level in the reservoir
to rise, so to avoid spillage, syphon out some
fluid using an old hydrometer or a teat pipette.
Refer to the note at the beginning of Section 3.
Do not lever between the piston and disc to
depress the piston.
12Check that the cutaway recesses in the
piston are positioned vertically. If necessary,
carefully turn the piston to its correct position.
13Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
14Locate the new pads in the caliper,
ensuring that the shim is in place between the
inboard pad and the piston. Ensure that the
friction material faces the disc, and check that
the pads are free to move slightly.
15Locate the anti-rattle springs on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
outboard side of the caliper, while depressing
the springs. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper
(see illustration).
16Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
17Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
18Apply the footbrake hard several times to
position the pads against the discs.
19Check and if necessary top-up the brake
fluid level.20New brake pads should be carefully
bedded in and, where possible, heavy braking
should be avoided during the first 100 miles
(160 km) or so after fitting new pads.
2.0 litre models
Removal
21Where applicable, pull the pad wear
sensor from the inboard pad, and disconnect
the wiring at the connector under the wheel
arch, next to the suspension strut (see
illustration). Note the wire routing.
22Using a screwdriver, prise the pad
retaining clip from the outboard edge of the
caliper, noting how it is located (see
illustration).
23Prise out the two guide bolt dust caps
from the inboard edge of the caliper, then
using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew the
9•4Braking system
4.6 Front disc pad anti-rattle springs
(arrowed) - models with solid discs
4.8 Withdrawing the outboard disc pad -
models with solid discs
4.21 Withdrawing the pad wear sensor
from the inboard pad - DOHC model4.15 Fitting a disc pad retaining pin -
models with solid discs4.9 Withdrawing the inboard disc pad and
shim - models with solid discs
4.7 Removing an anti-rattle spring -
models with solid discs

guide bolts, and lift the caliper and inboard
pad from the bracket. Recover the outboard
brake pad (see illustrations). Suspend the
caliper body with wire or string, to avoid
straining the brake fluid hose.
24Pull the inboard pad from the caliper
piston, noting that it is retained by a clip
attached to the pad backing plate (see
illustration).
Refitting
25Proceed as described in paragraphs 10
to 12 inclusive (see illustration).
26Apply a little brake grease to the contact
surfaces of the new brake pads.
27Fit the new inboard pad to the caliper
piston, ensuring that the piston is correctly
located.
28Locate the outboard pad on the caliper
bracket, with the friction material facing the
disc.
29Refit the caliper to the bracket, and
tighten the guide bolts to the specified torque
(see illustration).
30Refit the guide bolt dust caps.
31Refit the pad retaining clip, locating it as
noted before removal.
32Where applicable, fit a new pad wear
sensor to the inboard pad, and connect the
wiring at the connector under the wheel arch.
Route the wiring as noted during removal.
33Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
34Proceed as described in paragraphs 17
to 20 inclusive.
5Rear disc pads - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheels.2Check the wear of the friction material on
the brake pads, on both sides of the vehicle.
Check that the thickness of the friction
material (including the backing plate) is not
less than the minimum given in the Specifica-
tions.
3If any brake pad is worn below the specified
minimum thickness, renew all the rear pads as
a set as follows.
Removal
4Note how the anti-rattle spring is located,
then drive out the upper and lower pad
retaining pins from the outside of the caliper
using a pin punch (see illustration).
5Remove the anti-rattle spring (see
illustration).
6Push the pads away from the disc slightly,
then using a pair of pliers, withdraw the
Braking system 9•5
4.23B Withdrawing the caliper, inboard and
outboard pad - models with ventilated discs
5.5 Removing a rear disc pad retaining pin
anti-rattle spring5.4 Driving out a rear disc pad retaining
pin
4.29 Tightening a caliper guide bolt -
models with ventilated discs4.25 Caliper piston cutaway recess
(arrowed) correctly positioned - models
with ventilated discs4.24 Removing the inboard pad from the
caliper piston - models with ventilated
discs
4.23A Removing a caliper guide bolt dust
cap - models with ventilated discs4.22 Prising out the disc pad retaining clip
- models with ventilated discs
9

outboard pad and anti-squeal shim that fits
between the pad and the caliper body.
7Withdraw the inboard pad and anti-squeal
shim.
Refitting
8Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 10 and 11.
9Check that the cutaway recesses in the
pistons are positioned downwards, at
approximately 23°to the horizontal. A
template made of card may be used to check
the setting (see illustration). If necessary,
carefully turn the pistons to their correct
positions.
10Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
11Locate the new pads and the anti-squeal
shims in the caliper. Ensure that the friction
material faces the disc, and check that the
pads are free to move slightly.
12Locate the anti-rattle spring on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
inside edge of the caliper, while depressing
the spring. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper.
13Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
14Proceed as described in Section 4,
paragraphs 17 to 20 inclusive.
6Rear brake shoes (drum
brakes) - inspection, removal
and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1It is recommended that the brake shoes are
inspected when necessary by removing the
drums. This will enable a proper inspection of
the linings to be made, and additionally, the
wheel cylinders can be inspected for leaks. If
preferred, however, a provisional inspection of
the state of wear of the rear shoe linings can
be made by removing the plugs from the
inspection holes in the brake backplates.2Use a torch or inspection lamp, and if
necessary a mirror, to check that the friction
material has not worn down to less than the
specified minimum.
3If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four rear brake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
Removal
4Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheels.
5Fully release the handbrake.
6Extract the drum securing screw and
remove the drum. If the drum is tight, remove
the plug from the inspection hole in the brake
backplate, and push the handbrake operating
lever towards the brake shoe to move the
shoes away from the drum. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjuster (see
illustrations).
7Note the location and orientation of all
components before dismantling, as an aid to
reassembly.
8Clean the dust and dirt from the drum and
shoes, but take care not to inhale it.
9Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers (see
illustrations). Note that the hold-down pins
are removed through the rear of the brake
backplate.
10Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
operating lever.11The upper and lower return springs may
now be unhooked and the shoes removed
separately, or the assembly of shoes, adjuster
strut and springs may be removed together.
Remove the hub, refer to Chapter 10, if
necessary. Take care not to damage the
wheel cylinder rubber boots. Before removing
the return springs, note the position and
orientation of the springs and adjuster strut.
12If the shoes are to be removed for some
time, fit a stout rubber band or a spring clip to
the wheel cylinder, to prevent the pistons from
being pushed out of their bores. In any event,
do not press the brake pedal while the drum is
removed.
Refitting
13Clean the dust and dirt from the brake
backplate, but take care not to inhale it.
14Apply a small amount of brake grease to
the shoe rubbing areas on the backplate.
15Investigate and rectify any source of
contamination of the linings (wheel cylinder or
hub bearing oil seal leaking).
16Although linings are available separately
(without shoes), renewal of the shoes
complete with linings is to be preferred,
unless the reader has the necessary skills and
equipment to fit new linings to the old shoes.
17If not already done, dismantle the shoes,
strut and springs. Note the position and
orientation of the components. On later
models (1992-on), the brake shoe lower
anchorage has been modified so that it is now
rectangular, necessitating modified brake
shoes and a modified lower return spring (see
illustration).
9•6Braking system
5.9 Checking a rear caliper piston cut
away recess angle with a card template6.6B Push the handbrake operating lever
to move the shoes away from the drum
6.9B . . . then withdraw the cup and spring6.9A Release the shoe hold-down cup . . .
6.6A Extracting a brake drum securing
screw

Overhaul
6If desired, the caliper can be overhauled as
follows. Otherwise, go on to paragraph 20 for
details of refitting.
7Brush the dirt and dust from the caliper, but
take care not to inhale it.
8Note that no attempt must be made to
separate the two halves of the caliper.
9Using a screwdriver, prise the dust seal
retaining clips from the piston dust seals, then
carefully prise off the dust seals.
10Using a clamp, secure one of the pistons
in its fully retracted position. Then apply low
air pressure (e.g. from a foot pump), to the
hydraulic fluid union hole in the rear of the
caliper body, to eject the remaining piston
from its bore. Take care not to drop the
piston, which may result in damage.
11Temporarily close off the bore of the
removed piston, using a flat piece of wood or
similar improvised tool. Then remove the
clamp from the remaining piston, and again
apply air pressure to the caliper union to eject
the piston.
12Carefully prise the seals from the grooves
in the caliper piston bores, using a plastic or
wooden instrument.
13Inspect the surfaces of the pistons and
their bores in the caliper for scoring, or
evidence of metal-to-metal contact. If evident,
renew the complete caliper assembly.
14If the pistons and bores are in good
condition, discard the seals and obtain a
repair kit, which will contain all the necessary
renewable items. Also obtain a tube of brake
cylinder paste.
15Clean the piston and cylinder bore with
brake fluid or methylated spirit - nothing else!
16Apply a little brake cylinder paste to the
pistons, cylinder bores and piston seals.
17Begin reassembly by fitting the seals to
the grooves in the caliper bores.
18Locate the dust seals in their grooves in
the pistons, then insert the pistons carefully
into their bores until they enter the seals. It
may be necessary to rotate the pistons to
prevent them from jamming in the seals.
19When the pistons have been partially
depressed, engage the dust seals with the
rims of the caliper bores, and fit the retaining
clips.
Refitting
20Refit the caliper and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque, ensuring that the
ABS sensor bracket is in position, where
applicable.
21Reconnect the brake fluid pipe to the
caliper, and tighten the union nut.
22Refit the disc pads, as described in
Section 5.
23Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir filler neck and bleed the
relevant brake hydraulic circuit, as described
in Section 3.
24Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
10Brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant roadwheel bolts. If
checking a front disc, apply the handbrake,
and if checking a rear disc, chock the front
wheels, then jack up the relevant end of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
2Where applicable, check that the brake disc
securing screw is tight. Then fit a spacer
approximately 10.0 mm (0.4 in) thick to one of
the roadwheel bolts, and refit and tighten the
bolt in the hole opposite the disc securing
screw (see illustration).
3Rotate the brake disc, and examine it for
deep scoring or grooving. Light scoring is
normal, but if excessive, the disc should be
removed and either renewed or machined
(within the specified limits) by an engineering
works.
4Using a dial gauge, or a flat metal block and
feeler blades, check that the disc run-out does
not exceed the figure given in the Specifications.
Measure the run-out 10.0 mm (0.4 in) in from the
outer edge of the disc. 5On all SOHC models, if the rear disc run-
out is excessive, check the rear wheel bearing
adjustment, as described in Chapter 10.
6If the front disc run-out (all models), or the
rear disc run-out (DOHC models), is
excessive, remove the disc as described later
in this Section. Check that the disc-to-hub
surfaces are perfectly clean. Refit the disc and
check the run-out again.
7If the run-out is still excessive, the disc
should be renewed.
8To remove a disc, continue as follows.
Front disc
Removal
9Where applicable, remove the roadwheel
bolt and spacer used when checking the disc.
10Remove the disc pads, (Section 4).
11On 2.0 litre models, unscrew the two
securing bolts and remove the caliper
bracket.
12Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the disc from the hub, where applicable tilting
it to clear the brake caliper (see illustration).
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the mating faces of the disc
and hub are perfectly clean, and apply a little
locking fluid to the threads of the securing
screw. Refit the disc pads, (Section 4).
Rear disc - SOHC models
14On these models, the disc is integral with
the rear hub, and removal and refitting is
described in Chapter 10.
9•10Braking system
9.5A Withdrawing a rear caliper mounting
bolt . . .10.2 Refit a wheel bolt and spacer
(arrowed) opposite the disc securing screw
(A) before checking brake disc run-out
10.12 Removing a disc securing screw -
SOHC model
9.5B . . . which also secures the ABS
sensor bracket - DOHC model