1988 OPEL CALIBRA coolant level

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.6 L model (16 SV engine)
1 VIN plate
2 Air cleaner casing *
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Fuel pump
7 Steering rack
8 Octane rating plug
9 Washer fluid reservoir
10 Battery
11 Ignition coil
12 Distributor (Bosch type)
13 Cooling fan motor
14 Engine oil level dipstick
15 Oil filter
16 Oil filler cap
* Refer to Chapter 4A for
alternative type
Underbonnet view of a 1991 model Cavalier 1.6 L (C16 NZ engine)
1 Air cleaner casing
2 Suspension strut top
3 Coolant expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Air box
6 Exhaust gas recirculation valve
7 Steering gear
8 Octane coding plug
9 Washer fluid reservoir
10 Battery
11 Ignition coil
12 Distributor
13 Cooling fan motor
14 Engine oil level dipstick
15 Engine oil filter
16 Oxygen sensor
17 Engine oil filler cap

1•6Maintenance - component location
Underbonnet view of a 1989 2.0 SRi model (20 SEH engine)
1 VIN plate
2 Air cleaner casing
3 Airflow meter
4 Suspension strut top
5 Coolant expansion tank
6 Brake fluid reservoir
7 Throttle body
8 Relay box
9 Octane rating plug
10 Washer fluid reservoir
11 Battery
12 Power steering fluid reservoir
13 Power steering fluid hoses
14 Distributor cap
15 Engine oil level dipstick
16 Idle speed adjuster
17 Fuel pressure regulator
18 Oil filler cap
19 Thermostat housing
Underbonnet view of a 1990 GSi 2000 model (20 XEJ engine)
1 VIN plate
2 Air cleaner casing
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Air mass meter
7 Fuel pressure regulator
8 Relay box
9 Anti-theft alarm horn
10 ABS hydraulic modulator
11 Washer fluid reservoir
12 Power steering fluid reservoir
13 Battery
14 Distributor
15 Engine oil level dipstick
16 Oil filler cap

12Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum
pipe from the carburettor (see illustration).
13Remove the coolant hose(s) from the inlet
manifold and/or throttle body, as applicable.
14Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump and vapour separator on carburettor
models or from the fuel pipes at the
right-hand side of the engine compartment on
other models. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the
open ends of the pipes and hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel leakage (see
illustrations).
15Disconnect all relevant wiring connections
and plugs, and remove the fuel injection
wiring harness. Pull up on the wiring harness
housing, and compress the wiring plug
retaining clips to release the harness housing
from the fuel injectors (see illustration).16Disconnect the heater coolant hoses from
the coolant gallery at the rear of the cylinder
block.
17Disconnect the wiring from the following
components (where applicable):
a)Starter motor
b)Distributor (note HT lead positions)
c)Oil pressure switch
d)Oil temperature switch
e)TDC sensor
f)Oil level sensor
g)Knock sensor
h)Coolant temperature sensor
i)Temperature gauge sender
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine.
19Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
20Unbolt and remove the bellhousing cover
plate (see illustration).
21Remove the clutch (if applicable), as
described in Chapter 6. On automatic models,
use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the
relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque converter.
Refer to note at the beginning of this Section
and to Chapter 7B for further information.
22Remove the crankshaft pulley. Some
pulleys are secured by four bolts, which must
be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon
bit. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn
and remove them. On other engines, the
pulley is secured by a single bolt, which alsosecures the crankshaft sprocket. On manual
transmission models, if the engine is in the
vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from
turning by having an assistant engage first
gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel (or flexplate, on
automatics), ring gear teeth can be jammed,
through the bellhousing cover aperture using
a large screwdriver, or similar tool. Access to
the crankshaft pulley is most easily obtained
through the right-hand wheel arch, after
removing the roadwheel.
23Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
24Unscrew and remove two of the three
upper engine-to-transmission bolts,
accessible from the engine compartment,
leaving one fastened for safety.
25Unbolt the right-hand engine mounting
from the body and from the cylinder block,
and withdraw the mounting bracket.
26Unscrew and remove the four lower
engine-to-transmission bolts.
27Support the transmission using a trolley
jack and interposed block of wood. Remove
the last upper transmission bolt.
28Manipulate the engine as necessary to
separate it from the transmission. Note that
the transmission locates on dowels in the
cylinder block.
29Carefully raise the hoist, and lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage any of the surrounding components
in the engine compartment.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•9
7.12 Disconnect the pressure sensor
vacuum pipe from the carburettor -
1.6 litre model
7.20 Removing the transmission
bellhousing cover plate7.15 Removing the fuel injection wiring
harness -
2.0 litre SOHC model7.14B Fuel hose-to-pipe connections at
right-hand side of engine compartment -
2.0 litre SOHC model
7.14A Disconnecting a fuel hose from the
fuel pump - 1.6 litre model
7.11B . . .and disconnect the choke
heater/pull-down solenoid wiring plug -
1.6 litre model7.11A Disconnect the coolant hoses from
the automatic choke housing . . .
2A

a)Inlet and exhaust manifolds (where
applicable)
b)Starter motor
c)Rear coolant gallery and hoses
d)Oil pressure switch
e)Oil temperature switch (where applicable)
f)Oil level sensor (where applicable)
g)Knock sensor (where applicable)
h)TDC sensor (where applicable)
i)Distributor components
j)Fuel pump (where applicable)
k)Thermostat/housing (N 16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models)
l)Power steering pump and mounting
bracket (where applicable)
m)Alternator mounting bracket
n)Engine lifting brackets
o)Dipstick/crankcase breather tube
p)Inlet manifold mounting bracket (where
applicable)
13To ensure maximum life, with minimum
trouble, from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways and
coolant passages must be clear, and all
washers must be fitted in their original
positions. Oil all bearings and other moving
surfaces thoroughly with clean engine oil
during assembly.
14Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
15Obtain a torque wrench, an angle-torque
gauge, sockets and bits, an oil can, clean
lint-free rag, and a set of engine gaskets and
oil seals, together with a new oil filter.16If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts, flywheel bolts, big-end bearing
cap bolts and main bearing cap bolts will also
be required.
17On completion of reassembly, refit the
applicable ancillary components listed in
paragraph 12.
18Follow procedure shown in Section 37.
11Timing belt and sprockets
(without automatic tensioner) -
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: A two-legged puller may be required to
remove the crankshaft sprocket on N 16 NZ2,
1.8 and 2.0 litre models.Some of the later 1.4
and 1.6 litre engines, identifiable by the
squared-off top surfaces of the timing belt
covers, are fitted with spring-loaded auto-matic timing belt tensioners to ensure correct
belt tensioning on assembly.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On models with power steering, remove the
pump drivebelt, see Chapters 1 and 10.
3Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
4On C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models,
disconnect the wiring from the temperature
gauge sender.
5Release the securing clips (or hexagon-
headed screws, if fitted), and remove the main
outer timing belt cover, then unclip the smaller
outer timing belt cover from the coolant pump.
Where applicable, three screws retain the lower
(small) outer cover to the rear cover, the fourth
secures the tensioner (see illustrations).
6On 1.6 litre models with power steering,
remove the power steering pump, as
described in Chapter 10.
7Turn the crankshaft using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until
the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is
aligned with the notch in the rear timing belt
cover, and the notch in the crankshaft pulley
is aligned with the pointer on the rear timing
belt cover (see illustrations). Note that on 1.4
litre engine there are two notches in the
crankshaft pulley, representing 5°and 10°
BTDC, and the 10°BTDC notch should be
aligned with the pointer (see illustration).
8Loosen the three coolant pump securing
bolts (see illustration), and turn the pump to
relieve the tension in the timing belt, then slide
the belt from the camshaft sprocket.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•13
11.5C Timing belt lower (small) outer
cover screws (A), tensioner screw (B),
ignition timing fixed reference mark (C)
11.8 Loosening a coolant pump securing
bolt - 2.0 litre engine11.7C Crankshaft pulley 10°BTDC notch
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover - 1.4 litre engine11.7B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover - 2.0 litre engine
11.7A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in rear timing belt
cover . . .
11.5B . . .and the smaller cover from the
coolant pump - 2.0 litre engine11.5A Remove the main outer timing belt
cover . . .
2A

5Note that the rubber plug located next to
the bellhousing flange on the cylinder block
covers the aperture for the installation of a
diagnostic TDC sensor. The sensor, when
connected to a monitoring unit, indicates TDC
from the position of the pins set into the
crankshaft balance weight.
37Examination and renovation
-general
4
General
1With the engine completely stripped, clean all
components and examine them for wear. Each
component should be checked, and where
necessary renewed or renovated, as described
in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
2Renew main and big-end bearing shells as
a matter of course, unless it is known that
they have had little wear, and are in perfect
condition.
3If in doubt whether to renew a component
that is still just serviceable, consider the time
and effort that will be incurred should the
component fail at an early date after rebuild.
Obviously, the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.4Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel,
cylinder head, and main and big-end bearing
cap bolts must be renewed, because of the
high stress to which they are subjected.
5Renew the engine core plugs while they are
easily accessible, if they show signs of
leakage. Knock out the old plugs with a
hammer and chisel or punch. Clean the plug
seats, smear the new plugs with sealing
compound, and tap them squarely into
position.
38Initial start-up after major
overhaul or repair
2
1Make a final check to ensure that
everything has been reconnected to the
engine, and that no rags or tools have been
left in the engine compartment.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual, as fuel is pumped to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure warning lamp
goes out when the engine starts. This may
take a few seconds as the new oil filter fills
with oil.5Run the engine at a fast tickover, and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. If a new
camshaft has been fitted, pay careful
attention to the running-in procedure given in
Section 18, paragraphs 17 and 18. Where
applicable, check the power steering and/or
automatic transmission fluid cooler unions for
leakage. Some smoke and odd smells may be
experienced, as assembly lubricants and
sealers burn off the various components.
6Bring the engine to normal operating
temperature. Check the ignition timing, idle
speed and the mixture (where applicable), as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B.
7Allow the engine to cool, then recheck the
oil and coolant levels. Top-up if necessary
8If new bearings, pistons, etc., have been
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
2A•34SOHC engine procedures

3
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, with remote expansion tank. Coolant pump driven by
timing belt
Coolant
Type/specification (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Lubricants and fluidsin “Weekly checks”
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Thermostat
Starts to open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92°C
Fully open at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107°C
Operating temperature (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C
Expansion tank cap
Opening pressure (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.35 bar
Boiling point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125°C
Cooling fan switch
Switches on at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C
Switches off at (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95°C
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pump bolts:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models
(except C16 NZ2), (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Oil pipes to radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Outlet to thermostat housing,
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8
Thermostat housing to cylinder head:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16 NZ2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Coolant mixture - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cooling fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cooling fan switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Expansion tank and coolant level sensor - removal and refitting . . . .13
Facia ventilation nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Heater control panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Radiator (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .7
Radiator (manual transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Radiator - inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Temperature gauge sender - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Thermostat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Thermostat - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1General description
Engine cooling is achieved by a
conventional pump-assisted system, in which
the coolant is pressurised. The system
consists of a radiator, a coolant pump driven
by the engine timing belt, an electric cooling
fan, a thermostat, an expansion tank, and
connecting hoses. Hoses also carry coolant to
and from the heater matrix, which provides
heat for the ventilation and heating system.
The system works in the following way.
Cold coolant from one side of the radiator,
which is mounted at the front of the engine
compartment, passes to the coolant pump,
which forces the coolant through the coolant
passages in the cylinder block and cylinder
head. The coolant absorbs heat from the
engine, and then returns to the radiator
through the heater matrix. As the coolant
flows across the radiator it is cooled, and the
cycle is repeated.
Air flows through the radiator, to cool the
coolant as a result of the vehicle’s forward
motion. However, if the coolant temperature
exceeds a given figure, a
temperature-sensitive switch in the radiator
switches on the electric fan, to increase the
airflow through the radiator. The fan only
operates when necessary, with a consequent
reduction in noise and energy consumption.
To reduce the time taken for the engine to
warm up when starting from cold, the
thermostat, located in the cylinder head
outlet, prevents coolant flowing to the radiator
until the temperature has risen sufficiently.
Instead, the outflow from the cylinder head
bypasses the radiator, and is redirected
around the engine. When the temperature
reaches a given figure, the thermostat opens,
to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. The
thermostat is operated by the expansion of a
temperature sensitive wax capsule.
An expansion tank is incorporated in the
system, to allow for coolant expansion. The
system is topped up through a filler cap on
the expansion tank.
Note that later models may be fitted with
self-tensioning spring clamps to secure the
cooling system (including heater) hoses.
These clamps can be released by squeezing
together their free ends using a large pair of
self-grip pliers or similar so that the clamp can
be moved up the hose, clear of the union.
Check that the clamp is securely seated, and
check for leaks on reassembly.
2Cooling system -draining
2
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is warm, cover the filler cap with a
thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly, to
gradually relieve the system pressure. Take
care to avoid scalding by steam or coolant
escaping from the pressurised system.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, with reference to Chapter 11.
3Position a container beneath the radiator
bottom hose connection, then slacken the
hose clip and ease the hose from the radiator
stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed
for some time, it will be necessary to
manipulate the hose to break the joint. Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
4As no cylinder block drain plug is fitted, and
the radiator bottom hose may be situated
halfway up the radiator, the system cannot be
drained completely. Care should therefore be
taken when refilling the system to maintain
antifreeze strength.
5If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used.
6If the coolant has been drained for renewal,
and is badly contaminated, the coolant
system should be flushed as described in
Section 4. As the system cannot be drained
completely, it is advisable to flush the system
whenever the coolant is renewed, to minimise
the impurities remaining in the system.
3Cooling system -flushing
2
1If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time the cooling system will gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits
and other sediment. To restore coolant
system efficiency, it is necessary to flush the
system clean.
2The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.
3To flush the radiator, disconnect the top
hose at the radiator, then insert a garden hose
into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of
clean water through the radiator, and continue
flushing until clean water emerges from the
radiator bottom outlet (the bottom hose
should have been disconnected to drain the
system). If after a reasonable period, the water
still does not run clear, the radiator can be
flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
agent. It is important that the manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and flush
the radiator in reverse.
4To flush the engine, continue as follows.
1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2)
5Remove the thermostat as described in
Section 9, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
6With the radiator top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the radiator top hose.
7On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat, and reconnect the hoses.
C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre
models
8Remove the thermostat and cover
assembly, as described in Section 9.
9With the radiator bottom hose
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator bottom hose.
Direct a flow of clean water through the
engine, and continue flushing until clean water
emerges from the thermostat housing. It is
advisable to place a sheet of plastic under the
thermostat housing to deflect water away
from the engine and surrounding components
during the flushing process.
10On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and cover assembly, reconnect
the hoses and remove the sheet of plastic.
4Cooling system -filling
2
1Before attempting to fill the cooling system,
make sure that all hoses and clips are in good
condition, and that the clips are tight. Note
that an antifreeze mixture must be used all
year round, to prevent corrosion of the alloy
engine components -refer to Section 5.
2On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), disconnect the wire and unscrew the
coolant temperature sender from the inlet
manifold.
3Remove the expansion tank cap, and fill the
system by slowly pouring the coolant into the
expansion tank to prevent air locks from
forming.
4If the coolant is being renewed, begin by
pouring in a couple of pints of water, followed
by the correct quantity of antifreeze (see
Section 5), then top-up with more water.
5On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), refit the coolant temperature sender
when coolant free of air bubbles emerges
from the orifice in the inlet manifold.
6Top-up the coolant level to the “COLD” (or
“KALT”) mark on the expansion tank, then refit
the expansion tank cap.
7Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature, then stop the
engine and allow it to cool.
8Check for leaks, particularly around
disturbed components. Check the coolant
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
When renewing any hoses,
use a little soapy water as a
lubricant, or soften the hose
in hot water. Do not use oil or
grease, as this may attack the rubber.

level in the expansion tank, and top-up if
necessary. Note that the system must be cold
before an accurate level is indicated in the
expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is
removed while the engine is still warm, cover
the cap with a thick cloth and unscrew the
cap slowly, to gradually relieve the system
pressure. Take care to avoid scalding by
steam or coolant escaping from the
pressurised system.
9On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield on completion.
5Coolant mixture -general
1It is important to use an antifreeze mixture
in the cooling system all year round, to
prevent corrosion of the alloy engine
components. The coolant mixture should be
made up from clean, preferably soft, tap
water, and a good quality antifreeze
containing corrosion inhibitor. Ensure that the
antifreeze is ethylene glycol based, as the
cheaper methanol based types evaporate
over a period of time.
2The proportions of water and antifreeze
used will depend on the degree of protection
required. A coolant mixture containing 25%
antifreeze should be regarded as the
minimum strength required to maintain good
anti-corrosion properties. Details of the
degree of protection provided against freezing
will be supplied with the antifreeze by the
manufacturers. For absolute protection, use a
50% antifreeze mixture.
3The coolant mixture should be renewed
every two years, as the corrosion inhibitors
will deteriorate with time.
4Before filling the system with fresh coolant,
drain and flush the system, as described in
Sections 2 and 3, and check that all hoses are
secure and that the clips are tight. Antifreeze
has a searching action, and will leak morerapidly than plain water.
5Refill the system as described in Section 4.
All future topping-up should be carried out
using a coolant mixture of the same
proportions as that used to initially fill the
system.
6Do not use antifreeze in the windscreen
wash system, as it will attack the vehicle
paintwork. Note that antifreeze is poisonous,
and must be handled with due care.
6Radiator (manual
transmission) -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1The radiator can be removed complete with
the coolant fan and shroud if there is no need
to disturb the fan. If desired, the fan and its
shroud can be removed from the radiator,
with reference to Section 12.
2Drain the cooling system, as described in
Section 2.
3Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
expansion tank at the radiator.
4Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan
switch, located at the bottom right-hand side
of the radiator.5Disconnect the cooling fan wiring
connector, noting its location for use when
refitting.
6Compress and remove the two radiator
securing clips, located at the top corners of
the radiator (see illustration).
7Pull the top of the radiator back towards the
engine to free it from the top mountings, then
lift the radiator to disengage the lower
securing lugs. Move the radiator clear of the
vehicle, taking care not to damage the cooling
fins (see illustrations).
Refitting
8The radiator can be inspected and cleaned
as described in Section 8.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Ensure that the radiator rubber mountings
are in good condition and renew if necessary,
and ensure that the lower securing lugs
engage correctly as the radiator is refitted.
11Refill the cooling system, (Section 4).
7Radiator (automatic
transmission) -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1On models with automatic transmission,
the radiator left-hand side tank incorporates a
heat exchanger to cool the transmission fluid.
It is connected to the transmission by a pair of
flexible hoses, with a metal pipe at each end.
2When removing the radiator, either clamp
the transmission fluid cooler flexible hoses, or
slacken their clamps, work them off their
unions and swiftly plug or cap each hose end
and union to minimise the loss of fluid and to
prevent the entry of dirt.
Refitting
3On refitting, reverse the removal procedure
and do not forget to check the transmission
fluid level, topping-up as necessary to replace
the lost fluid, as described in Chapter 7B.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
6.7B Withdrawing the radiator -
2.0 litre SOHC model6.7A Radiator freed from top right-hand mounting -
1.6 litre model
6.6 Compressing a radiator securing clip -
2.0 litre SOHC model
3