1988 OPEL CALIBRA stop start

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

42Where applicable, screw the pressure-
proportioning valves into the base of the
cylinder.
43Refit the master cylinder, as described in
Section 15.
17Master cylinder (ABS) -
general
The master cylinder fitted to models with
ABS cannot be dismantled, and no attempt
should be made at overhaul.
If faulty, the complete unit must be
renewed, as described in Section 15.
18Vacuum servo - description
and testing
Description
1The vacuum servo is fitted between the
brake pedal and the master cylinder, and
provides assistance to the driver when the
pedal is depressed, reducing the effort required
to operate the brakes. The unit is operated by
vacuum from the inlet manifold. With the brake
pedal released, vacuum is channelled to both
sides of the internal diaphragm. However,
when the pedal is depressed, one side of the
diaphragm is opened to atmosphere, resulting
in assistance to the pedal effort. Should the
vacuum servo develop a fault, the hydraulic
system is not affected, but greater effort will be
required at the pedal.
Testing
2The operation of the servo can be checked
as follows.
3With the engine stopped, destroy the
vacuum in the servo by depressing the brake
pedal several times.
4Hold the brake pedal depressed and start
the engine. The pedal should sink slightly as
the engine is started.
5If the pedal does not sink, check the servo
vacuum hose for leaks.
6If no defects are found in the vacuum hose,
the fault must lie in the servo itself.7No overhaul of the servo is possible, and if
faulty, the complete unit must be renewed.
19Vacuum servo - removal and
refitting
4
Note: During the 1989 model year, some
vehicles were produced with the brake pedal
height incorrectly set, resulting in the brake
pedal resting approximately 15.0 mm (0.6 in)
above the clutch pedal instead of 4.0 mm
(0.16 in below). The correct pedal height can
be set by adjusting the vacuum servo
operating fork dimension, as described in
paragraphs 15 and 16
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.
3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch anti-
clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
4Pull the spring clip from the right-hand end
of the servo fork-to-pedal pivot pin.
5Using a pair of pliers, pull back the end of
the pedal return spring from the pedal, to
enable the servo fork-to-pedal pivot pin to be
removed. Withdraw the pivot pin.
6Remove the windscreen cowl panel, as
described in Chapter 11, then remove the
windscreen wiper motor and linkage as
described in Chapter 12.7Remove the coolant expansion tank as
described in Chapter 3.
8Pull the vacuum pipe from the brake servo.
9Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
carefully withdraw the brake master cylinder
from the studs on the servo. Move the master
cylinder forwards slightly, taking care not to
strain the brake pipes.
10Remove the two plugs covering the servo
securing bolts from the cowl panel (see
illustrations).
11Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the servo securing bolts and remove them
completely, then lift the servo from the
bulkhead (see illustrations).
12If desired, the mounting bracket can be
removed from the servo by unscrewing the
four securing nuts. Note that the bracket will
stick to the servo, as it is fitted with sealing
compound.
13The servo cannot be overhauled, and if
faulty, the complete unit must be renewed.
Refitting
14Before refitting the servo, check that the
operating fork dimension is correct as follows.
15Measure the distance from the end face of
the servo casing to the centre of the pivot pin
hole in the end of the operating fork. The
distance should be 144.0 mm (5.6 in). To
make accurate measurement easier, insert a
bolt or bar of similar diameter through the
pivot pin hole, and measure to the centre of
the bolt or bar (see illustration).
Braking system 9•15
19.11A Unscrew the securing bolts . . .19.15 Measuring the servo operating fork
dimension using a bolt inserted through
the pivot pin hole19.11B . . . and withdraw the servo
19.10B . . . to expose the servo securing
bolts19.10A Remove the plugs . . .
9

4B
cruising and accelerating. The injector earth is
also switched off on the overrun to improve
fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions.
Additionally, on the X16 SZ engine, the ECU
also controls the operation of the charcoal
canister purge valve in the evaporative
emission control system.
10The oxygen sensor screwed into the
exhaust manifold provides the ECU with a
constant feedback signal. This enables it to
adjust the mixture (closed-loop control) to
provide the best possible conditions for the
catalytic converter to operate effectively.
11Until the oxygen sensor is fully warmed up
it gives no feedback so the ECU uses
pre-programmed values (open-loop control) to
determine the correct injector pulse width.
When the sensor reaches its normal operating
temperature, its tip (which is sensitive to
oxygen) sends the ECU a varying voltage
depending on the amount of oxygen in the
exhaust gases. If the inlet air/fuel mixture is too
rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen so the
sensor sends a low-voltage signal. The voltage
rises as the mixture weakens and the amount of
oxygen rises in the exhaust gases. Peak
conversion efficiency of all major pollutants
occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture is maintained
at the chemically correct ratio for the complete
combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of
air to 1 part of fuel (the “stoichiometric” ratio).
The sensor output voltage alters in a large step
at this point, the ECU using the signal change
as a reference point and correcting the inlet
air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel
injector pulse width.
12In addition, the ECU senses battery
voltage, incorporates diagnostic capabilities,
and can both receive and transmit information
by way of the diagnostic connector, thus
permitting engine diagnosis and tuning by
Vauxhall’s TECH1, test equipment.
Motronic system
13The Motronic type is available in several
different versions, depending on model. The
system is under the overall control of the
Motronic engine management system (Chapter
5), which also controls the ignition timing.
14Fuel is supplied from the rear-mounted
fuel tank by an electric fuel pump mounted
under the rear of the vehicle, through a
pressure regulator, to the fuel rail. The fuel rail
acts as a reservoir for the four fuel injectors,
which inject fuel into the cylinder inlet tracts,
upstream of the inlet valves. On SOHC
engines, the fuel injectors receive an electrical
pulse once per crankshaft revolution, which
operates all four injectors simultaneously. On
DOHC engines, sequential fuel injection is
used, whereby each injector receives an
individual electrical pulse allowing the four
injectors to operate independently, which
enables finer control of the fuel supply to each
cylinder. The duration of the electrical pulse
determines the quantity of fuel-injected, and
pulse duration is computed by the Motronic
module, based on the information received
from the various sensors.15On SOHC engines, inlet air passes from
the air cleaner through a vane type airflow
meter, before passing to the cylinder inlet
tracts through the throttle valve. A flap in the
vane airflow meter is deflected in proportion
to the airflow; this deflection is converted into
an electrical signal, and passed to the
Motronic module. A potentiometer screw
located on the airflow meter provides the
means of idle mixture adjustment, by altering
the reference voltage supplied to the Motronic
module.
16On DOHC engines, inlet air passes from
the air cleaner through a hot wire type air
mass meter, before passing to the cylinder
inlet tracts through a two-stage throttle body
assembly. The electrical current required to
maintain the temperature of the hot wire in the
air mass meter is directly proportional to the
mass flow rate of the air trying to cool it. The
current is converted into a signal, which is
passed to the Motronic module. The throttle
body contains two throttle valves that open
progressively, allowing high torque at part
throttle, and full-throttle, high-speed
“breathing” capacity. A potentiometer screw
located on the air mass meter provides the
means of idle mixture adjustment, by altering
the reference voltage supplied to the Motronic
module.
17A throttle position sensor enables the
Motronic module to compute the throttle
position, and on certain models, its rate of
change. Extra fuel can thus be provided for
acceleration when the throttle is opened
suddenly. Information from the throttle
position sensor is also used to cut off the fuel
supply on the overrun, thus improving fuel
economy and reducing exhaust gas
emissions.
18Idle speed is controlled by a variable-
orifice solenoid valve, which regulates the
amount of air bypassing the throttle valve. The
valve is controlled by the Motronic module;
there is no provision for direct adjustment of
the idle speed.
19Additional sensors inform the Motronic
module of engine coolant temperature, air
temperature, and on models fitted with a
catalytic converter, exhaust gas oxygen
content.
20A fuel filter is incorporated in the fuel
supply line, to ensure that the fuel supplied to
the injectors is clean.
21A fuel pump cut-off relay is controlled by
the Motronic module, which cuts the power to
the fuel pump should the engine stop with the
ignition switched on, if there is an accident. All
1993-onwards models equipped with
Motronic systems, have their fuel pump
located inside the fuel tank.
22The later M2.8 system is basically the
same as the earlier M2.5 system apart from
the following:
a)Hot Film Mass Airflow Meter - The hot
wire type unit used previously is replaced
on the M2.8 system by a hot film mass
airflow meter. The operation is the sameexcept that a thin, electrically heated plate
rather than a wire is used. The plate is
maintained at a constant temperature by
electric current as the inlet air mass
passing over the plate tries to cool it. The
current required to maintain the
temperature of the plate is directly
proportional to the mass flow rate of the
inlet air. The current is converted to a
signal that is passed to the Motronic
module.
b)Inlet Air Temperature Sensor -The sensor
is located in the hose between the hot
film mass airflow meter and the air cleaner
for precise monitoring of inlet air
temperature. Signals from the sensor are
used in conjunction with other sensors to
indicate the occurrence of a hot start
condition. The Motronic module then
interprets these signals to alter injector
duration accordingly.
c)Throttle Valve Potentiometer -On the
M2.8 system a throttle valve
potentiometer replaces the throttle valve
switch used previously.
Simtec system
23An increased amount of electronic
components are used instead of mechanical
parts as sensors and actuators with the
Simtec engine management system. This
provides more precise operating data as well
as greater problem free motoring.
24The control unit is equipped with
electronic ignition control. Called ‘Micropro-
cessor Spark Timing System, inductive
triggered’, (or MSTS-i), and means that the
mechanical high voltage distributor is no
longer needed. It is located behind the trim
panel, on the right-hand side footwell (door
pillar).
25The ignition coil is replaced by a dual
spark ignition coil, which is switched directly
by the output stages in the control unit.
26A camshaft sensor will maintain
emergency operation, should the crankshaft
inductive pulse pick-up, malfunction. These
sense TDC (‘Top Dead Centre’), crankshaft
angle and engine speed. The signals are used
by the control unit to calculate ignition point
and for fuel injection.
27The ‘hot film airflow meter’ determines the
mass of air taken in by the engine. The system
uses this information to calculate the correct
amount of fuel needed for injection in the
engine.
28The air inlet temperature sensor (NTC), is
fitted in the air inlet duct between the air
cleaner and the hot mass air flow meter.
29A controlled canister purge valve is
actuated by the system. The tank ventilation is
monitored closely with the Lambda control (or
oxygen sensor) and adaptation by the
computer within the control unit.
30A knock control system is also fitted. This
eliminates the need for octane number
adjustment, as it is performed automatically
through the control unit.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•3

9Fuel filter (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel filter is located on the fuel pump
bracket under the rear of the vehicle. Either on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustrations).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the filter is removed.
4Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
filter, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses are
disconnected.
5Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the filter. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
6Loosen the clamp bolt(s), and withdraw the
fuel filter from its bracket. Note the orientation
of the flow direction arrow on the body of the
filter, and the position of the “AUS” (out)
marking on the filter end face.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the flow direction markings are correctly
orientated.
8Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
10Fuel filter (‘In-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8).
2Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands
placed under the body side members. (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). The fuel filter
is located at the rear of the fuel tank, on the
right-hand side.3Unclip the fuel hose from the filter mounting
bracket.
4Note carefully any markings on the fuel filter
casing. There should be at least an arrow
(showing the direction of fuel flow) pointing in
the direction of the fuel supply hose leading to
the engine compartment. There may also be
the words “EIN” (in) and “AUS” (out)
embossed in the appropriate end of the
casing.
5Clamp the fuel filter hoses, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the hoses.
6Undo the single screw to release the
mounting bracket, then open the clamp with a
screwdriver to remove the fuel filter (see
illustration).
Refitting
7Fit the new fuel filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure, but ensure that the fuel
flow direction arrow or markings point in the
correct direction. Switch on the ignition and
check carefully for leaks; if any signs of
leakage are detected, the problem must be
rectified before the engine is started.
11Fuel pump - testing
2
Testing
1If the fuel pump is functioning, it should be
possible to hear it “buzzing” by listening
under the rear of the vehicle when the ignition
is switched on. Unless the engine is started,
the fuel pump should switch off after
approximately one second. If the noise
produced is excessive, this may be due to a
faulty fuel flow damper. The damper can be
renewed referring to Section 18, if necessary.
2If the pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay.
3To test the fuel pump, special equipment is
required, and it is recommended that any
suspected faults are referred to a Vauxhall
dealer.
12Fuel pump (‘Out-of-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel pump is located on a bracket
under the rear of the vehicle, either on the
right-hand side of the spare wheel well or in
front of the fuel tank on other models.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4Disconnect the wiring plug(s) from the fuel
pump (see illustration).
5Clamp the fuel hoses on either side of the
damper, to minimise fuel loss when the hoses
are disconnected.
6Loosen the clamp screws, and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the pump. Be prepared for
fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
7Loosen the clamp bolt, and slide the pump
from its bracket.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the pump is fitted the correct way round
in its bracket. Push the pump into the rubber
clamping sleeve as far as the rim on the pump
body (see illustration).
4B•6Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
9.1A Fuel filter (arrowed) - ‘out of tank’,
fuel pump models10.6 Fuel filter - ‘in tank’, fuel pump type
A Clamp screwB Hose clips
12.4 Disconnecting a fuel pump wiring
plug - ‘out of tank’, fuel pump model
9.1B Fuel component assembly - ‘out of
tank’, fuel pump models
1 Fuel filter
2 Fuel flow damper3 Fuel pump

4Where applicable, the only test of the
catalytic converter’s efficiency is to check the
level of CO in the exhaust gas. This is
measured at the tailpipe with the engine
running (with no load) at 3000 rpm. If the CO
level exceeds the specified value, the Vauxhall
test equipment must be used to check the
entire fuel injection/ignition system. If the
engine is mechanically sound, once the
system has been eliminated, the fault must lie
in the converter, which must be renewed.
Motronic systems
Checking
5In order to check the idle mixture adjustment,
the following conditions must be met:
a)The engine must be at normal operating
temperature
b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan,
heater blower, headlamps etc.) must be
switched off
c)The spark plug gaps must be correctly
adjusted see Chapter 1
d)The throttle cable free play must be
correctly adjusted - see Section 19
e)The air inlet trunking must be free from
leaks, and the air filter must be clean
Adjustment
6Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser to the vehicle in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
7Start the engine and turn it at 2000 rpm for
approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to
idle. Check that the idle speed is within the
specified limits. No adjustment of idle speed
is possible, and if outside the specified limits,
the problem should be referred to a dealer.
8With the idle speed correct, check the CO
level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the
specified limits, adjust by means of the idle
mixture adjustment screw in the airflow meter
or air mass meter, as applicable. In
production, the screw is covered by a
tamperproof plug; ensure that no local or
national laws are being broken before
removing the plug.9If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and proceed when the cooling fan stops.
10When the idle mixture is correctly set,
stop the engine and disconnect the test
equipment.
Simtec systems
11Adjustment is not possible on these
models.
21Fuel pressure regulator -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models (except Multec systems)
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2For improved access, remove the idle
speed adjuster as described in Section 22.
Disconnect the wiring harness housing from
the fuel injectors and move it to one side,
taking care not to strain the wiring. Pull up on
the wiring harness housing, and compress the
wiring plug retaining clips to release the
harness housing from the injectors.
3Position a wad of rag beneath the pressure
regulator, to absorb the fuel that will be
released as the regulator is removed.
4Loosen the clamp screws and disconnect
the fuel hoses from the regulator. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions.
5Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the pressure regulator and withdraw the
regulator.
SOHC models (with Multec system)
6Depressurise the fuel system, as described
in Section 8.
7Remove the air box. Refer to Section 5, if
necessary.
8Disconnect the battery earth lead.9Noting the dowels locating the cover,
carefully unscrew the fuel pressure regulator
cover Torx-type screws (size TX 15). Ensure
that the spring does not fly out as the cover is
released. Remove the cover spring seat,
spring and diaphragm, noting how each is
fitted (see illustration).
10The diaphragm must be renewed
whenever the cover is disturbed. If any of the
regulator’s other components are worn or
damaged, they can be renewed only as part
of the throttle body upper section assembly.
DOHC models
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring.
13Loosen the clamp screw securing the air
trunking to the right-hand end of the air mass
meter.
14Using an Allen key or hexagon bit,
unscrew the four bolts securing the air box to
the throttle body. Lift the air box from the
throttle body and disconnect the hose from
the base of the air box, then withdraw the air
box/air mass meter assembly.
15Disconnect the two breather hoses from
the rear of the camshaft cover, and move
them to one side.
16Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position sensor.
17Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the pressure regulator (see illustration).
18Position a wad of rag beneath the
regulator, to absorb the fuel that will be
released as the regulator is removed.
19Using a spanner or socket, and working
underneath the regulator, unscrew the four
Torx type securing bolts, then withdraw the
regulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all wires, pipes and hoses are correctly
reconnected. Note that on DOHC models, the
4B•10Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
21.17 Fuel pressure regulator (arrowed) - DOHC model21.9 Fuel pressure regulator cover
A Locating dowels B Mounting screws

b)Check the throttle cable operation and
adjustment (see above).
c)When reconnecting the vacuum hoses
and pipes, ensure that they are connected
to the front unions as shown in the
accompanying photograph.
d)As no fuel vapour trap is fitted, it is
essential that the manifold absolute
pressure sensor vacuum hose is routed
so that it falls steadily from the sensor to
the throttle body. This precaution will
prevent any fuel droplets being trapped in
the sensor or hose and allowing them to
drain into the inlet port.
e)Ensure that the fuel hoses are correctly
reconnected; the feed hose is on the
injector end of the throttle body.
f)Switch on the ignition and check for signs
of fuel leaks from all disturbed unions; if
any signs of leakage are detected, the
problem must be rectified before the
engine is started.
33Idle air control stepper
motor - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the air box (see Section 5).
2Disconnect the battery earth lead.3Disconnect the wiring plug from the stepper
motor (see illustration).
4Undo its two screws, then withdraw the
stepper motor. Remove and discard the
sealing ring (see illustrations).
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
a)Fit a new sealing ring, greasing it lightly to
ease installation.
b)To prevent the risk of damage, either to
the throttle body or to the stepper motor,
if the motor’s plunger tip projects more
than 28 mm (1.1 in) beyond the motor’s
mating surface, carefully press the
plunger in until its stop is reached. The
stepper motor will then be reset by the
ECU when the engine is restarted.
c)Apply a few drops of a thread-locking
compound to their threads, then carefully
tighten the screws to the specified torque
wrench setting.
34Throttle potentiometer -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the
potentiometer (see illustration).
3Unscrew the two Torx-type securing
screws (size TX 25) and withdraw the
potentiometer.
Refitting
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
a)Install the potentiometer when the throttle
valve is fully closed, and ensure that its
adapter seats correctly on the throttle
valve spindle.
b)Tighten the screws carefully to the
specified torque.
35Electronic Control Unit
(ECU) - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the driver’s footwell side trim panel
(Chapter 11).
3Release the unit from its mountings and
withdraw it until the wiring plugs’ locking lugs
can be released and the plugs can be
disconnected (see illustration).
4Note that the unit consists of two parts the
basic control unit and the Programmable
Read Only Memory (PROM). While it is
possible to renew them separately, do not
attempt to separate them. Faults requiring this
degree of attention can be diagnosed only by
an experienced mechanic using the special
Vauxhall test equipment. A previously sound
ECU could be seriously damaged by careless
handling of the contacts between the two
sub-units.
4B•16Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
32.10 Intake air temperature control -
Multec systems
A Vacuum pipe
B Exhaust gas recirculation valve hose
C Charcoal canister control pipe
D Fuel return hose
33.4A Unscrew retaining screws (second
screw arrowed) . . .
35.3 Withdrawing the fuel
injection/ignition system ECU34.2 Disconnecting the throttle
potentiometer wiring plug - note the
mounting screws (arrowed)
33.4B . . . to remove the stepper motor -
renew sealing ring (arrowed)
33.3 Disconnecting the idle air control
stepper motor wiring plug

1•4Maintenance schedule
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
MRefer to “Weekly checks”
Basic service, every 9000 miles
(15 000 km) or 12 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the items in “Weekly checks”, carry out the
following:
MRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Section 3).
MCheck all hoses and other components for fluid
leaks (Section 4).
MCheck the steering and suspension components
(Section 5).
MCheck the condition of the driveshaft rubber
gaiters (Section 6).
MCheck the automatic transmission fluid level (if
applicable), (Section 7).
MCheck the radiator for blockage (e.g. dead insects)
and clean as necessary (Section 8).
MCheck and adjust the idle speed and mixture (if
applicable), (Section 9).
MCheck the throttle linkage and lubricate if
necessary (Section 10).
MCheck the exhaust system for corrosion, leaks and
security (Section 11).
MCheck all wiring for condition and security
(Section 12).
MCheck and adjust the ignition timing (if applicable),
(Section 13).
MRenew the brake fluid (Section 14).
MCheck the brake pad friction material for wear
(Section 15).
MCheck the handbrake linkage (Section 16).
MCheck the power steering fluid level (if applicable),
(Section 17).
MCheck the power steering pump drivebelt (if
applicable), (Section 18).
MCheck the rear suspension level control system
height, if fitted (Section 19).
MCheck the bodywork (Section 20).
MLubricate all locks and hinges (Section 21).
MCheck the alternator V-belt (Section 22).
MCheck the headlamp alignment (Section 23).
MReplace battery in the door-lock key (if applicable),
(Section 24).
MCarry out a road test (Section 25).
Note: Vauxhall specify that an Exhaust Emissions Test should be
carried out at least annually. However, this requires special
equipment, and is performed as part of the MOT test (refer to the
end of the manual).
Full service, every 18 000 miles
(30 000 km) or 24 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘basic service’, carry out the following:
MRenew the coolant (Section 26).
MRenew the air cleaner element (Section 27).
MCheck the operation of the air cleaner air inlet
temperature control (carburettor models only),
(Section 28).
MRenew the fuel filter (Section 29).
MRenew the spark plugs (SOHC only), (Section 30) *.
MInspect and clean the distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 31).
MCheck the clutch cable adjustment (Section 32).
MCheck the manual transmission oil level (Section 33).
MCheck the automatic transmission (Section 34).
MCheck the brake drum shoe for wear (Section 35).
Major service, every 36 000 miles
(60 000 km) or 48 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘full service’, carry out the following:
MRenew timing belt (Section 36).
MRenew the spark plugs (DOHC models only),
(Section 37).
MRenew automatic transmission fluid (Section 38) *.
* Note: If a vehicle is used for heavy-duty work (e.g. taxi work,
caravan/trailer towing, mostly short-distance, stop-start city driving)
the fluid must be changed every 36 months or 27 000 miles (45 000
km), whichever occurs first.