1988 OPEL CALIBRA steering

2When the starter switch is operated, current
flows from the battery to the solenoid that is
mounted on the starter body. The plunger in
the solenoid moves inwards, so causing a
centrally pivoted lever to push the drive pinion
into mesh with the starter ring gear. When the
solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel,
it closes an internal contact and full starting
current flows to the starter field coils. The
armature is then able to rotate the crankshaft,
so starting the engine.
3A special freewheel clutch is fitted to the
starter driven pinion, so that when the engine
fires and starts to operate on its own it does
not drive the starter motor.
4When the starter switch is released, the
solenoid is de-energised, and a spring moves
the plunger back to its rest position. This
operates the pivoted lever to the withdraw the
drive pinion from engagement with the starter
ring.
13Starter motor - testing
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Testing
1If the starter motor fails to turn the engine
when the switch is operated, and engine
seizure is not the problem, there are several
other possible reasons:
a)The battery is faulty
b)The electrical connections between the
switch, solenoid battery and starter motor
are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth
c)The solenoid switch is faulty
d)The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective
e)The starter motor pinion and/or flywheel
ring gear is badly worn, and in need of
replacement
2To check the battery, switch on the
headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds,
then the battery is in a discharged state. If the
lamps glow brightly, operate the starter switch
and see what happens to the lamps. If theydim, then power is reaching the motor, but
failing to turn it. If the starter turns slowly, go
on to the next check.
3If, when the starter switch is operated, the
lamps stay bright, then insufficient power is
reaching the motor. Disconnect the battery
and the starter/solenoid power connections,
and the engine earth strap, then thoroughly
clean them and refit them. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery connections to
prevent corrosion. Corroded connections are
the most frequent cause of electrical system
malfunctions.
4If the preceding checks and cleaning tasks
have been carried out without success, a
clicking noise will probably have been heard
each time the starter switch was operated.
This indicates that the solenoid switch was
operating, but it does not necessarily follow
that the main contacts were closing properly
(if no clicking has been heard from the
solenoid, it is certainly defective). The
solenoid can be checked by connecting a
voltmeter across the main cable connection
on the solenoid and earth. When the switch is
operated, these should be a reading on the
voltmeter. If there is no reading, the solenoid
unit is faulty, and should be renewed.
5If the starter motor operates, but does not
turn the engine, then it is likely that the starter
pinion and/or flywheel ring gear are badly
worn. If this is the case, the starter motor will
normally be noisy in operation.
6Finally, if it is established that the solenoid
is not faulty, and 12 volts are reaching the
starter, then the motor itself is faulty, and
should be removed for inspection.
14Starter motor - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.3On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
4Note the wiring connections on the
solenoid, then disconnect them (see
illustration).
5Where applicable, unscrew the bolt
securing the exhaust bracket and the starter
motor mounting bracket to the cylinder block
(see illustration).
6Unscrew the two starter motor mounting
bolts. Note that the top bolt on some models
are fitted from the transmission side, and
secures a wiring harness bracket (see
illustration).
7Withdraw the starter motor.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where
applicable, ensure that the wiring harness
bracket is in place on the top mounting bolt,
and tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
15Starter motor - overhaul
5
If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,
it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before continuing as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.
16Ignition coil - removal, testing
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
An ohmmeter will be required to test the coil
Removal
1The ignition coil is either a cylindrical metal
canister or a moulded plastic unit. It is
clamped or bolted to the left-hand inner wing
panel, near the suspension strut top mounting
(under the power steering fluid reservoir, on
Engine electrical systems 5•9
14.6 Starter motor securing bolts
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model
(engine removed)14.5 Starter motor mounting
bracket/exhaust bracket securing bolt
(arrowed) - 1.6 litre model14.4 Starter motor and solenoid viewed
from underneath the vehicle. Solenoid
wiring connections arrowed
5

models so equipped). On 14 NV, 16 SV and
18 SV models, the ignition amplifier module is
mounted on the coil’s bracket or baseplate
(see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Carefully note the LT wiring connections
before disconnecting them (see illustration).
4Note that on models with power steering,
one of the coil securing bolts also secures the
power steering fluid reservoir bracket.
5Remove the coil.
6On models with a cylindrical type coil, the
mounting clamp can be removed from the coil
by loosening the clamp nut.
Testing
7To test the coil, first disconnect the LT
wiring and the HT lead. Test the coil’s primary
windings by connecting a multi-meter across
the LT terminals (“+” or “15” and “-” or “1”).Then the secondary windings by testing
across the HT terminal (“4”) and one of the LT
terminals (usually the “-/1” terminal, although
in some cases, either terminal may serve). On
20 XEJ models, results should closely
approximate the specified values. On all other
models, typical primary resistances are less
than 1 ohm, while secondary resistances can
be expected to be in the 4000 to 12 000 ohms
range.
8If the results obtained differ significantly
from those given, showing windings that are
shorted or open circuit, the coil must be
renewed.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct connections. Usually they are
physically different to prevent incorrect
refitting. If not, use the terminal marks ornumbers in conjunction with the relevant
wiring diagram at the back of this manual to
ensure that the connections are correctly
remade. If the connections are reversed, so
will the coil’s polarity be. While the engine
may still run, spark plug life will be reduced
and poor starting and/or misfiring may follow.
10Where applicable, ensure that the coil
suppresser is in position before refitting the
coil securing bolts.
17Distributor cap and rotor
arm -removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
14 NV and 16 SV models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Identify each HT lead for position, so that
the leads can be refitted to their correct
cylinders, then disconnect the leads from the
spark plugs by pulling on the connectors, not
the leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead
from the coil. Pull the leads from the clips on
the camshaft cover.
3On the Bosch distributor, prise away the
two spring clips with a screwdriver, and lift off
the distributor cap. On the Lucas distributor,
unscrew the two small bolts and lift off the
cap (see illustrations).
4The rotor arm is a push fit on the end of the
distributor shaft.
5If needed, on the Bosch distributor, the
plastic shield can be pulled from the end of
the distributor, to allow examination of the
distributor components (see illustration).
Other models, where applicable
6Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.
7On DOHC models (except X20 XEV),
unscrew the two securing bolts and withdraw
the spark plug cover from the camshaft cover.
8Using a Torx socket, unscrew the three
captive securing screws and withdraw the
distributor cap (see illustration).
9Withdraw the plastic shield from the rotor
arm housing. The shield is fitted in the
housing, with an O-ring seal located in a
groove in its periphery. Ease out the shield,
taking care not to damage the rotor arm (see
illustration).
5•10Engine electrical systems
16.1 Ignition coil - 1.6 litre models - note
ignition timing basic adjustment coding
plug (arrowed)
17.3A Removing the distributor cap -
1.6 litre model (Bosch distributor) . . .
17.9 Removing the plastic shield from the
rotor arm housing - 2.0 litre model17.8 Unscrewing a distributor cap
securing screw - 2.0 litre model17.5 Removing the rotor arm and plastic
shield - 1.6 litre model (Bosch distributor)
17.3B . . .and 1.6 litre models (Lucas
distributor)
16.3 Disconnecting the coil LT wiring plug
- 2.0 litre model

in a clip at the left-hand rear of the engine
compartment (see illustration).
4The plug is reversible in its connector, and
is marked either “A” or “98” on one side,
which corresponds to the position for use with
98 RON leaded petrol. On the other side either
“B” or “95”, which corresponds to the position
to use with 95 RON unleaded petrol. All
vehicles are set for use with 95 RON unleaded
petrol before they leave the factory.
5To change the coding for use with a
different type of petrol, first allow the fuel tank
to become practically empty.
6Fill the fuel tank with the required type of
petrol.
7Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then
remove the coding plug from its clip and
disconnect the wiring connector.
8Rotate the plug through 180°, so that the
appropriate octane mark is uppermost (see
paragraph 4), then reconnect the wiring
connector and refit the plug to its clip.
9Note that using petrol with a higher octane
rating than that set will not cause damage, but
petrol with a lower octane rating than that set
must not be used.
20 XE, C20 XE and X20 XEV
models
10The ignition coding plug found on these
models is not an octane coding plug
(although its method of operation is similar)
and must not be altered from its factory
setting. Its purpose is to ensure that the
Motronic module uses the correct information,
pre-programmed (or “mapped”) into its
memory, to enable the vehicle to comply with
the relevant national noise and exhaust
emission legislation.
11On these models, the knock sensor circuit
allows the Motronic module to compensate
for differences in the octane value of the
petrol used, without the need for manual
intervention. Remember, however, that all
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles must
use unleaded petrol only. This means that
these models can use any grade of unleaded
petrol on sale in the UK without the need for
adjustment.
23Electronic modules - removal
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 for precautions to be
observed when working with electronic
modules. Heat sink compound must be used
when refitting the module.
HEI module (14 NV models)
Removal
1The module is mounted on a metal plate,
beneath the ignition coil, on the left-hand side
of the engine compartment.
2Remove the ignition coil as described in
Section 16, and slide the coil from its clamp.
3The module can be removed from the
mounting plate by unscrewing the two
securing screws.
4Before refitting the module, heat sink
compound should be applied to the mounting
plate to improve heat dissipation. If a new
module is being fitted, it should be supplied
with heat sink compound. Similar compounds
can be bought from DIY electrical shops.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
MSTS-i module (1.6 and 1.8 litre
models)
Removal
6The module is mounted on the engine
compartment bulkhead, above the steering
rack (see illustration).
7Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8If desired, for improved access, remove the
air box from the top of the carburettor.
9Disconnect the wiring plug from the
module.
10Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
withdraw the module from the bulkhead.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Motronic module
Removal
12The module is mounted in the driver’s
footwell, behind the side trim panel.13Disconnect the battery negative lead.
14Remove the driver’s footwell side trim
panel, as described in Chapter 11.
15Unscrew the three module securing
screws, two at the top of the module, and a
single screw at the bottom, and lower the
module from the footwell (see illustration).
16Release the retaining clip, and disconnect
the module wiring plug (see illustration).
17Withdraw the module, noting the plastic
insulating sheet on its rear face.
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the insulating sheet is in place on
the rear face of the module.
24MSTS-i components -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
Procedures for removal and refitting of the
ignition system components and electronic
module are given elsewhere in the relevant
Sections of this Chapter
Manifold pressure sensor
Removal
1The sensor is located on the engine
compartment bulkhead, to the left of the
MSTS-i module, under the edge of the
windscreen cowl panel (see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5•14Engine electrical systems
22.3 Octane coding plug (arrowed) -
2.0 litre model
23.15 Lowering the Motronic module from
the footwell - 2.0 litre model23.16 Releasing the Motronic module
wiring plug clip - 2.0 litre model
23.6 MSTS-i module location -
1.6 litre model

11
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Front seat rails to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Seat belt fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
1 General description
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure, without the need for a separate
chassis.
Various areas are strengthened, to provide
for suspension, steering and engine mounting
points, and load distribution.
Extensive corrosion protection is applied to
all new vehicles. Various anti-corrosion
preparations are used, including galvanising
and PVC under-sealing. Protective wax is
injected into the box sections and other
hollow cavities.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components, such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.Interior fittings are to a high standard on all
models, and a wide range of optional
equipment is available throughout the range.
Except for the rear quarter windows, all
fixed glass is bonded in position, using a
special adhesive. Any work in this area should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall dealer or glass
replacement specialist.
2 Bodywork and underframe -
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids that may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud that will retain moisture and
tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough, the
best time to clean the underframe and wheel
arches is in wet weather when the mud is
thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather
the underframe is usually cleaned of large
accumulations automatically and this is a
good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Boot lid lock cylinder (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . .11
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Engine undershield (DOHC models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .32
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Interior trim panels - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Seat belt tensioners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Seats (without tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Seats, front (with seat belt tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . .43
Sunroof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Tailgate (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Tailgate lock (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .13
Tailgate lock cylinder (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . .14
Tailgate strut (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Wheel arch liners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Windscreen and rear window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11

37Facia panels - removal and
refitting
3
Footwell trim panels
Removal
1The lower footwell trim panels on the
driver’s and passenger sides are secured by
turnbuckle type plastic clips.2To remove a panel, use a screwdriver to
turn the heads of the clips through 90°(see
illustration), then withdraw the panel from the
facia.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Driver’s side lower facia panel
Removal
4Open the flap covering the fusebox to
expose the four lower facia panel securing
screws.
5Remove the four screws, then lower the
panel and pull it towards the driver’s door to
release the two securing clips. Withdraw the
panel from the facia (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Steering column shrouds
Removal
7On models with an adjustable tilt steering
column, move the column to its fully raised
position, then unscrew the adjuster lever (see
illustration).
8Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose one of the front steering column
shroud securing screw covers.
9Prise out the cover, and remove the column
shroud securing screw, then turn the steering
wheel to enable the remaining cover and
screw to be removed (see illustrations).
10Remove the three securing screws from
the underside of the lower column shroud,
then remove the lower and upper shrouds
(see illustrations).
11•16Bodywork and fittings
37.2 Releasing a footwell trim panel
securing clip37.5B . . . then withdraw the lower facia
panel
37.10C . . . and upper shrouds (steering
wheel removed)37.10B . . . then remove the lower . . .37.10A Remove the three lower column
shroud securing screws . . .
37.9B . . . then remove the front column
shroud securing screws37.9A Prise out the covers . . .37.7 Removing the column adjuster lever
37.5A Remove the four securing screws
from the fusebox aperture . . .
Before removing any of the
facia panels, the battery
negative lead should be
disconnected, as several
permanently live feed wires are routed
behind the facia.

Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the column switch gaiters
engage in the cut-outs in the upper shroud.
Instrument panel lower trim
panel
Removal
12Remove the steering column shrouds, as
described previously in this Section.
13The panel is secured by clips at either
end, which must be released by pulling the
ends of the panel from the facia (see
illustration). This is a tricky operation, as to
release both ends, the panel must be bent
slightly at its centre. Take great care, as the
panel is easily broken.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Instrument panel upper trim
panel
Removal
15Remove the instrument panel lower trim
panel, as described previously in this Section.
16Extract the two now-exposed lower trim
panel securing screws, one from each end of
the panel, noting that the left-hand screw also
secures the heater control panel (see
illustration).
17Withdraw the panel from the facia (see
illustration).
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Lighting switch panel
Removal
19Remove the instrument panel upper and
lower trim panels, as described previously in
this Section.
20Remove the remaining securing screw
from the left-hand side of the lighting switch
panel (see illustration).
21Pull the lighting switch panel from the
facia, to release the securing clips at the
right-hand end.
22Ensure that the battery negative lead has
been disconnected, then disconnect the
wiring plugs from the switches, and withdraw
the switch panel (see illustration).
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Radio/oddments tray panel
Removal
24Remove the radio, as described in
Chapter 12.
25Remove the lower and upper instrument
panel trim panels, as described previously in
this Section.
26Remove the lower securing screw from
the right-hand side of the heater control
panel.
27Remove the clock or trip computer, as
applicable, from the facia referring to Chapter
12, if necessary.
28Remove the two now-exposed heater
control panel securing screws from the
clock/trip computer aperture.
29Carefully manipulate the heater control
panel forwards within the limits of the control
cable travel, then manipulate the
radio/oddments tray out from the facia. This is
a tricky operation, as the radio/oddments tray
securing lugs rest behind the heater control
panel securing lugs (see illustrations). Take
care not to strain the heater control cables.
30With the radio/oddments tray removed,
the radio support tray can be removed if
desired by unscrewing the two securing
screws, then sliding the tray forwards to
disconnect the wiring and aerial plugs (see
illustrations).
Refitting
31Refitting is a reversal of removal, taking
care not to damage the heater control
components as the radio/oddments tray is
manipulated into position.
Bodywork and fittings 11•17
37.17 Withdrawing the instrument panel
upper trim panel
37.29B Manipulating the radio/oddments
tray from the facia37.29A Right-hand securing lug (arrowed)
behind heater control panel37.22 Disconnecting the wiring plugs from
the lighting switches
37.20 Removing the lower left-hand
lighting switch panel securing screw
37.16 Unscrewing the left-hand instrument
panel upper trim panel securing screw37.13 Removing the instrument panel
lower trim panel
11

4Front disc pads - inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Note: When working on the brake
components, take care not to disperse brake
dust into the air, or to inhale it, since it may
contain asbestos, which can damage your
health.
Inspection
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the front roadwheel bolts and
apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of the
vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members.
2Remove the roadwheels. Turn the steering to
full right-hand lock, and check the wear of the
friction material on the right-hand brake pads.
Check that the thickness of the friction material
(including the backing plate) is not less than the
minimum given in the Specifications.
3Turn the steering to full left-hand lock, and
check the left-hand brake pads in the same
way.
4If any brake pad is worn below the specified
minimum thickness, renew all the front pads
as a set.
5If the pads require renewal, continue as
follows according to model.
Removal
1.4, 1.6 and 1.8 litre models
6Note how the anti-rattle springs are located
(see illustration), then drive the upper and
lower pad retaining pins out from the inboard
side of the caliper, using a pin punch.
7Remove the anti-rattle springs (see
illustration).
8Push the pads away from the disc slightly,
then using a pair of pliers, withdraw the
outboard pad (see illustration).
9Withdraw the inboard pad, and the shim
that fits between the pad and the caliper
piston (see illustration).
Refitting
10Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
but take care not to inhale it. Carefully remove
any rust from the edge of the brake disc.11To accommodate the new thicker pads,
the caliper piston must be depressed fully into
its cylinder bore, using a flat bar of metal such
as a tyre lever. The action of depressing the
piston will cause the fluid level in the reservoir
to rise, so to avoid spillage, syphon out some
fluid using an old hydrometer or a teat pipette.
Refer to the note at the beginning of Section 3.
Do not lever between the piston and disc to
depress the piston.
12Check that the cutaway recesses in the
piston are positioned vertically. If necessary,
carefully turn the piston to its correct position.
13Apply a little brake grease to the top and
bottom edges of the backplates on the new
brake pads.
14Locate the new pads in the caliper,
ensuring that the shim is in place between the
inboard pad and the piston. Ensure that the
friction material faces the disc, and check that
the pads are free to move slightly.
15Locate the anti-rattle springs on the pads,
then insert the pad retaining pins from the
outboard side of the caliper, while depressing
the springs. Tap the pins firmly into the caliper
(see illustration).
16Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.
17Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
18Apply the footbrake hard several times to
position the pads against the discs.
19Check and if necessary top-up the brake
fluid level.20New brake pads should be carefully
bedded in and, where possible, heavy braking
should be avoided during the first 100 miles
(160 km) or so after fitting new pads.
2.0 litre models
Removal
21Where applicable, pull the pad wear
sensor from the inboard pad, and disconnect
the wiring at the connector under the wheel
arch, next to the suspension strut (see
illustration). Note the wire routing.
22Using a screwdriver, prise the pad
retaining clip from the outboard edge of the
caliper, noting how it is located (see
illustration).
23Prise out the two guide bolt dust caps
from the inboard edge of the caliper, then
using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew the
9•4Braking system
4.6 Front disc pad anti-rattle springs
(arrowed) - models with solid discs
4.8 Withdrawing the outboard disc pad -
models with solid discs
4.21 Withdrawing the pad wear sensor
from the inboard pad - DOHC model4.15 Fitting a disc pad retaining pin -
models with solid discs4.9 Withdrawing the inboard disc pad and
shim - models with solid discs
4.7 Removing an anti-rattle spring -
models with solid discs