1988 OPEL CALIBRA jacking points

4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the camshaft
housing (see illustration).
5Recover the plastic insulating block.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their
correct locations as noted during removal,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately and rectify the problem
without delay. Note that the engine may take
a longer time than usual to start when the
pump has been removed, as the pump refills
with fuel.
7Fuel tank - removal,
examination and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) placed under the body side
members.
4Disconnect the exhaust system front
flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the
exhaust system with wire or string from the
underbody.
5Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust
system from its rubber mountings, and allow it
to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It
is advisable to support the rear section of the
exhaust at its front end, with wire or string
from the underbody, to avoid straining the
system.
6Unclip the handbrake cable from the
bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing
strap.
7Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
level sender unit located in the right-hand side
of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hosepositions for use when refitting. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
9Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from
the rear of the fuel tank.
10Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack with an interposed block of wood.
11Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps, then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the
disconnection of the remaining vent hose.
12With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the
tank sideways from the right-hand side of the
vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn,
some residual fuel may be released.
Examination
13If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel level sender unit, as
described in Section 8. This procedure should
be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it
is vital to take adequate fire precautions -
refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual for further details.
14Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a
fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour
requires several hours of specialist cleaning.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
16On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the fuel tank has been removed,
as the pump refills with fuel.
8Fuel level sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clear metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4The sender unit is located in the right-hand
side at the fuel tank.
5Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.6Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender
unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends
of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel loss.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
8To remove the sender unit, engage a flat
piece of metal as a lever between two of the
slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anti-
clockwise.
9Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
10Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
13Ensure that the marks made on the
sender unit and fuel tank before removal are
aligned.
14Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. Also check
that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage
is evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the sender unit has been
removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.
9Fuel vapour separator (1.6
and 1.8 litre models) -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel vapour separator is located on a
bracket attached to the side of the
carburettor.
2Note the locations of the three fuel hoses,
labelling them if necessary for use when
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.
Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
3Remove the two securing screws, and lift
the vapour separator from its bracket.
4Check the body of the separator for cracks
or leaks before refitting, and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the three fuel hoses are connected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
6Run the engine and check the hose
connections for leaks on completion. If
leakage is evident, stop the engine
immediately and rectify the problem without
delay.
4A•4Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic
insulating block - 1.6 litre model

4Certain models may have additional
underbody shields and splashguards fitted,
which may be attached to the wheel arch liners.
32Engine undershield (DOHC
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Extract the two securing screws, and
remove the oil filter access panel.
3Working around the edges of the splash
shield, remove the self tapping screws that
secure the shield to the body, noting that
some of the screws also secure the wheel
arch liners.
4With the help of an assistant, pull the shield
from the vehicle, and place it to one side to
avoid damage.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
33Fuel filler flap -removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Open the flap for access to the four screws
securing the flap to the rear wing.2Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the flap.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
34Sunroof components -
removal and refitting
4
Note:The sunroof is a complex piece of
equipment consisting of a large number of
components. It is strongly recommended that
the sunroof mechanism is not disturbed unless
necessary. If the sunroof mechanism is faulty, or
requires overhaul, consult a dealer for advice.
Glass panel
Removal
1Push the sunshade fully rearwards, and
open the glass panel halfway.
2Extract the four securing screws from the
front edge of the guide rail plastic surround,
and withdraw the surround down through the
sunroof aperture (see illustrations).
3Move the glass panel forward, and open it
to its tilt position.
4Prise the plastic trim strips from the guide
rails, to expose the glass panel securing
screws (see illustration).5Extract the three securing screws from
each guide rail, and where applicable, recover
the lockwashers (see illustration).
6Carefully lift the glass panel from the roof
aperture, taking care not to damage the
vehicle paintwork (see illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Before refitting the glass panel, measure
the distance between the mounting flanges.
Bend the flanges if necessary to achieve the
desired dimension (see illustration).
Bodywork and fittings 11•13
34.4 Prising a plastic trim strip from the
guide rail
34.6 Lifting the glass panel from the roof
aperture
34.5 Loosening a glass panel securing
screw
34.2B . . . and withdraw the guide rail
plastic surround34.2A Extract the four securing screws . . .
11
34.8 Sunroof glass panel mounting
flange dimension
1 Mounting flange
2 Nut
3 Protective foil
A-A Cross-section cutting point
(Dimensions in mm)

13If the pistons and bores are in good
condition, discard the seals and obtain a
repair kit, which will contain all the necessary
renewable items. Later models (1992-on), are
fitted with L-shaped piston seals (see
illustrations). Ensure that the correct repair
kit is obtained when overhauling a wheel
cylinder, as the early and later components
are not interchangeable.
14Lubricate the piston seals with clean
brake fluid, and insert them into the cylinder
bores with the spring between them, using
finger pressure only.
15Dip the pistons in clean brake fluid, and
insert them into the cylinder bores.
16Fit the dust seals, and check that the
pistons can move freely in their bores.
Refitting
17Refit the wheel cylinder to the backplate,
and tighten the securing bolts.
18Reconnect the brake fluid pipe to the
cylinder, and tighten the union nut.
19Push the brake shoes against the pistons,
then refit the upper return spring as noted
before removal.
20Refit the brake drum and tighten the
securing screw. If necessary, back off the
adjuster wheel until the drum will pass over
the shoes.
21Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed the
relevant brake hydraulic circuit, as described
in Section 3.
22Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake a number of times. A clicking noise
will be heard at the drum as the automatic
adjuster operates. When the clicking stops,
adjustment is complete.
23Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
13Rear brake backplate -
removal and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
3Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
4Remove the brake shoes, (Section 6).
5Remove the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
6Using a screwdriver, prise out the lockplate
that secures the handbrake cable in the
backplate.
7Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and backplate.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
9Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
10Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
11Refit the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
12Refit the brake shoes, as described in
Section 6.
13Refit the rear hub, as described in
Chapter 10.
14Refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
15Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC models)
Removal
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
17Remove the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
18Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
19Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and lockplate.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
21Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
22Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
23Refit the handbrake shoes, as described
in Section 7.
24Refit the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
25Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
DOHC models
Removal
26Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
27Remove the brake disc (Section 10).
28Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
29Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
30Using a splined key, unscrew the four
securing bolts and withdraw the backplate.
Refitting
31Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
32Refit the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
33Refit the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
34Refit the brake disc (Section 10).
35Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
9•12Braking system
12.13A Exploded view of a rear brake
wheel cylinder
1 Dust cap
2 Bleed screw
3 Cylinder body
4 Dust seal5 Piston
6 Piston seal
7 Spring
12.13B Modified rear wheel cylinders - 1992-on models

14Front brake disc shield -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
2Remove the brake disc, as described in
Section 10.
3Using a screwdriver inserted through the
holes in the hub flange, extract the three
screws securing the disc shield to the hub
carrier.
4Using plate shears or an alternative tool, cut
a section of metal from the rear edge of the
shield to enable the shield to be withdrawn
over the hub, then remove the shield (see
illustration).
Refitting
5If a new shield is to be fitted, cut out a
section of metal, as during removal of the old
shield, to enable the shield to be fitted.
Smooth the cut edges, and coat them with
anti-corrosion paint.
6Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Refit the brake disc, as described in
Section 10.
8Do not fully tighten the roadwheel bolts until
the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
15Master cylinder - removal and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depress the footbrake pedal several times
to dissipate the vacuum in the servo unit.3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
fluid level sensor in the reservoir filler cap.
4If possible, use a teat pipette or an old
hydrometer to remove the brake fluid from the
reservoir. This will reduce the loss of fluid later
in the procedure.
5Locate a container beneath the master
cylinder, to catch the brake fluid that will be
released.
6Identify the brake fluid pipes for position,
then unscrew the union nuts and disconnect
the pipes from the master cylinder.
7Unscrew the two securing nuts, and
withdraw the master cylinder from the studs
on the vacuum servo unit (see illustration).
8Clean the external surfaces of the cylinder,
then using a screwdriver carefully prise the
fluid reservoir and its seals from the top of the
cylinder.
9If desired, on models without ABS, the
master cylinder can be overhauled, as
described in Section 16.
10No overhaul of the master cylinder is
possible on models with ABS, see Section 17.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new seals when fitting the brake fluid
reservoir, and on completion, bleed the
complete brake hydraulic system, as
described in Section 3.
16Master cylinder (non-ABS) -
overhaul
4
Note: Before dismantling the master cylinder,
check that replacement parts can be obtained
and retain the old components to compare
them with the new ones
1With the master cylinder removed as
described in Section 15, continue as follows,
according to type.
GMF type master cylinder
2Clamp the master cylinder in a soft-jawed
vice.
3Where applicable, unscrew the pressure-
proportioning valves from the base of the
cylinder.4Carefully prise out the sealing ring from the
end of the cylinder bore.
5Depress the primary piston slightly using a
piece of wood or plastic. Then hold the piston
in the depressed position by inserting a
smooth pin or rod of 3.0 mm (0.12 in) diameter
through the primary fluid reservoir port in the
cylinder (see illustration).
6Extract the circlip from the end of the
cylinder bore using a screwdriver. Take care
not to damage the piston or cylinder bore.
7Withdraw the pin or rod retaining the piston.
8Withdraw the primary piston assembly from
the cylinder, if necessary tapping the cylinder
on a wooden block to free the piston from the
bore.
9Apply low air pressure - e.g. from a foot
pump - to the front fluid reservoir port in the
cylinder, to eject the secondary piston
assembly.
10Clean all the components, in clean brake
fluid or methylated spirit only, and examine
them for wear and damage. In particular,
check the surfaces of the pistons and cylinder
bore for scoring and corrosion. If the bore
shows signs of wear, renew the complete
master cylinder assembly (see illustration).
11If the cylinder bore is in good condition,
obtain a repair kit, which will contain all the
necessary renewable items. A Vauxhall dealer
will supply a pre-assembled kit of parts, which
should be fitted as follows.
12Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean
brake fluid or brake grease, then clamp the
cylinder in a soft-jawed vice, with the bore
horizontal.
13Remove the plug from the end of the
assembly tube, and insert the short part of the
tube into the cylinder bore as far as the
shoulder on the tube.
14Use a piece of wood or plastic to push the
components out of the tube and into the
cylinder bore. Then hold the primary piston in
the depressed position by inserting the pin or
rod used during dismantling through the
cylinder primary fluid reservoir port.
15Fit a new circlip to the end of the cylinder
bore, ensuring that it seats correctly, and that
the piston is free to move.
16Depress the primary piston, and withdraw
the pin or rod from the fluid reservoir port.
Braking system 9•13
16.5 Holding the primary piston depressed
while extracting the circlip from the
cylinder body - GMF type master cylinder15.7 Master cylinder securing nut
(arrowed)14.4 Cutting a section of metal from a new
front brake disc shield prior to fitting
9

16If adjustment is necessary, slacken the
locknut, turn the fork to give the specified
dimension, then tighten the locknut.
17Where applicable, coat the contact faces
of the servo and the mounting bracket with
sealing compound, then refit the bracket to
the servo, and tighten the securing nuts to the
specified torque.
18Coat the threads of the servo securing
bolts with locking fluid, then fit the servo to
the bulkhead and tighten the securing bolts.
19Refit the securing bolt cover plugs to the
cowl panel.
20Refit the master cylinder to the servo, and
tighten the securing nuts to the specified
torque.
21Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the servo.
22Refit the coolant expansion tank, as
described in Chapter 3.
23Refit the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage as described in Chapter 12, then refit
the windscreen cowl panel.
24Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
On completion, test the operation of the
servo, as described in Section 18.
20ABS hydraulic modulator -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2, and the note at the
beginning of Section 3, before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and
secure a piece of polythene over the filler
neck with a rubber band, or by refitting the
cap. This will reduce the loss of fluid during
the following procedure.
3Remove the securing screw, and withdraw
the plastic cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
4Remove the two clamp screws, and lift off
the modulator wiring harness clamp (see
illustration).
5Disconnect the modulator wiring plug,
levering it from the socket with a screwdriver if
necessary.6Unscrew the brake fluid pipe union nuts,
and disconnect the pipes from the modulator.
Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug the
open ends to prevent dirt ingress and further
fluid loss. Move the pipes just clear of the
modulator, taking care not to strain them.
7Unscrew the three modulator securing nuts
(see illustration), then tilt the modulator
slightly, and withdraw it upwards from its
bracket, sufficiently to gain access to the
earth lead securing nut at the front lower edge
of the modulator.
8Unscrew the securing nut and disconnect
the earth lead, then withdraw the modulator
from the vehicle, taking care not to spill brake
fluid on the vehicle paintwork.
9If a new modulator is to be fitted, pull the
two relays from the top of the old modulator,
and transfer them to the new unit. No attempt
must be made to dismantle the modulator.
Refitting
10Before refitting the modulator, check that
the bolts securing the mounting bracket to the
body panel are tight, and that the modulator
rubber mountings are in good condition.
Renew the rubber mountings if necessary.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Make sure that the earth lead is
reconnected before fitting the modulator to its
mounting bracket.13On completion, remove the polythene
sheet from the brake fluid reservoir filler neck,
and bleed the complete brake hydraulic
system, as described in Section 3.
14Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after the modulator has been removed. At the
earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
21ABS wheel sensors - removal
and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Front wheel sensor
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned
under the body side members. Remove the
roadwheel.
3Unclip the sensor wiring connector from the
retaining clip under the wheel arch, then
separate the two halves of the wiring
connector, prising them apart with a
screwdriver if necessary (see illustration).
4Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the bolt securing the wheel sensor to its
mounting bracket, then carefully lever the
sensor from the bracket using a screwdriver
(see illustration). Recover the seal ring.
Refitting
5Examine the condition of the seal ring, and
renew if necessary.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Smear a little grease on the sensor casing
before fitting it to the bracket.
8Do not fully tighten the roadwheel bolts until
the vehicle is resting on its wheels.
9Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after a wheel sensor has been removed. At
9•16Braking system
20.4 ABS hydraulic modulator (cover
removed)
1 Wiring harness
clamp screws2 Earth lead
3 Relays
21.3 Front wheel sensor wiring under
wheelarch - DOHC model
1 ABS sensor connector
2 Disc pad wear sensor wiring connector
21.4 ABS front wheel sensor securing bolt
(arrowed) - DOHC model20.7 ABS hydraulic modulator securing
screws (arrowed)

5Loosen the adjuster nut until the wheels are
just free to turn.
6The handbrake must start to operate with
the lever on the second notch of the ratchet.
7On completion of adjustment, check the
handbrake cables for free movement, and
apply a little grease to the adjuster threads to
prevent corrosion.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Models with rear disc brakes
9Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
10Pull the handbrake lever as far as the
second notch on the ratchet.
11On DOHC models fitted with a catalytic
converter, unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the exhaust centre box heat shield
by carefully sliding it round the centre box.
12On all SOHC models, loosen the knurled
nut on the cable adjuster (mounted on the
torsion beam).
13On DOHC models, loosen the nut
securing the cable equaliser yoke to the
handbrake lever operating rod.
14Using a screwdriver inserted through the
adjuster hole in one of the discs/hubs (see
illustration), turn the adjuster wheel until the
brake shoes can just be heard to rub when the
disc/hub is turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation.
15Turn the adjuster wheel back until the
disc/hub is just free to turn.
16Repeat paragraphs 14 and 15 on the
remaining side of the vehicle.
17Tighten the nut on the cable adjuster or
the equaliser, as applicable, until the brakeshoes just begin to operate. Check that the
shoes operate equally on both wheels.
18Fully release the handbrake, then apply it
again.
19The discs/hubs must lock when the
handbrake lever reaches the sixth notch on
the ratchet. If necessary, turn the nut on the
cable adjuster or equaliser, as applicable, to
achieve this.
20Where applicable, refit the exhaust heat
shield.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
27Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1The handbrake cable is in two sections. The
longer section runs from the handbrake
operating rod, through the adjuster, to the
right-hand brake assembly. The shorter
section runs from the adjuster to the left-hand
brake assembly. The two sections of the cable
can be renewed independently.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim(s),
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts.
Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel(s).
3Note the routing of the handbrake cable(s),
as an aid to refitting.
4Remove the relevant brake drum(s), with
reference to Section 11.
Longer cable
Removal
5Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod.
6Disconnect the cable from the handbrake
lever operating rod on the vehicle underbody
(see illustration).
7Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody. Note that the cable can be fed
through certain guides, but in some cases, the
guide brackets must be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cable to be withdrawn.
8Detach the cable from the adjuster on the
torsion beam.
9Unhook the cable end from the lever on the
brake shoe, then using a screwdriver, prise
out the lockplate that secures the handbrake
cable in the backplate.
10Withdraw the cable from the vehicle,
releasing it from the guide on the torsion
beam.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Screw the adjuster nut onto the threaded
rod to the position noted before removal.
13Ensure that the handbrake cable is routed
as noted before removal.
14Refit the brake drum, (Section 11).
15Before refitting the roadwheel(s) and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
Shorter cable
Removal
16Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod. Continue as described in
paragraphs 8 to 10.
Braking system 9•19
27.6 Handbrake cable connection to handbrake lever operating
rod
1 Handbrake cable
2 Connecting link3 Handbrake lever operating rod26.14 Using a screwdriver to turn the handbrake adjuster wheel -
model with rear disc brakes
9

Refitting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 15 inclusive.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC)
General
18The procedure is as described for models
with rear drum brakes, remembering the
following points.
19Ignore the references to removal and
refitting of the brake drum.
20Note that there is no lockplate securing
the handbrake cable to the brake backplate,
but the return spring must be unhooked from
the cable end.
21On models with a catalytic converter,
when removing the longer cable, unscrew the
four securing nuts and withdraw the exhaust
centre box heat shield by carefully sliding it
round the centre box.
DOHC models
Removal
22The left and right-hand handbrake cables,
and the equaliser yoke, are removed as an
assembly on DOHC models.
23Loosen the rear roadwheel bolts, then
chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
24Note the routing of the handbrake cables,
as an aid to refitting.
25On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
26Note the length of exposed thread at the
cable equaliser yoke, then unscrew the
securing nut and disconnect the equaliser
yoke from the handbrake lever operating rod.
27Unhook the cable ends from the brake
shoe operating levers and the return springs
(see illustration).
28Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody and the semi-trailing arms. Note
that the cables can be fed through certainguides, but in some cases, the guide brackets
may have to be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cables to be
withdrawn.
29Withdraw the cables and equaliser
assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
30Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
31Use a new self-locking nut to secure the
equaliser yoke to the handbrake lever
operating rod, and screw the nut onto the rod
to the position noted before removal.
32Ensure that the cables are routed as
noted before removal.
33Before refitting the roadwheels and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
28Handbrake lever - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Jack up the vehicle, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned securely under the body side
members.
3On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
4On all SOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable adjuster
on the torsion beam, then slacken the adjuster
to enable the cable to be disconnected from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Disconnect the
cable from the operating rod and slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
5On DOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable
equaliser yoke, then unscrew the securing nut
and disconnect the equaliser yoke from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
6Remove the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.7Remove the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
8Access to the handbrake lever-to-floor
mounting bolts is provided by slits in the
carpet. If no slits are provided, either carefully
cut some, or release and fold back the carpet.
9Unscrew the mounting bolts, and withdraw
the handbrake lever sufficiently to disconnect
the handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
wiring (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wiring and withdraw the
handbrake lever and operating rod from the
vehicle.
11A worn ratchet segment can be renewed
by driving the securing sleeve from the
handbrake lever, using a metal rod or a bolt of
similar diameter (see illustration).
12Drive the new sleeve supplied with the
new segment into the lever to permit a little
play between the segment and lever.
13If desired, a new pawl can be fitted if the
original pivot rivet is drilled out (see
illustration).
14Rivet the new pawl so that the pawl is still
free to move.
15The handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
can be removed from the lever assembly after
unscrewing the securing bolt.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
17Refit the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
18Refit the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.
9•20Braking system
28.13 Drilling out the handbrake lever pawl
pivot pin
28.11 Driving out the handbrake lever
ratchet segment securing sleeve28.9 Handbrake lever securing bolts
(arrowed)27.27 Handbrake cable end fitting at brake
shoe - DOHC model
1 Operating lever
2 Cable bracket on semi-trailing arm

4B
9Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately, and rectify the problem
without delay.
13Fuel pump (‘In-tank’ fuel
pump models) - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8),
then remove and refit the fuel filler cap to
ensure that the pressure is equalised inside
and outside the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
3Fold forwards the rear seat cushion. Peel
back the floor covering beneath it, then
remove the cover plug from the vehicle floor
to reach the pump mountings (see
illustration).
4Noting exactly how it is connected, and
making your own marks or notes to ensure
that it can be reconnected the same way
round, disconnect the wiring plug from the
pump.
5Release the securing clip and disconnect
the fuel hose from the pump. Clamp or plug
the hose to prevent the loss of fuel and the
entry of dirt.
6Undo the pump mounting bracket screws,
then withdraw the mounting bracket and
pump assembly from the tank. Note the
position of the sealing ring and discard it, then
cover the tank opening as a safety measure
and to prevent the entry of dirt.
7If the pump is to be renewed, first move it to
a clean working area and carry out the
following.
8Prise off the filter at the base of the pump
assembly, then release the securing clamp
and disconnect the mounting
bracket-to-pump fuel hose.
9Making your own marks or notes to ensure
that they can be reconnected the same way
round, unsolder the wires connecting the
pump to the mounting bracket.
10Press the pump out of the rubber sleeve.
Refitting
11Reassembly and refitting are the reverse
of the removal and dismantling procedures,
noting the following points.a)Ensure that the pump is seated correctly
in the sleeve and that the hose is securely
fastened.
b)Ensure that the wires are correctly
reconnected and securely soldered.
c)Always renew the pump mounting
bracket’s sealing ring.
d)Apply a few drops of sealing compound
(i.e. Vauxhall part no. 90485251) to the
threads of the screws, then tighten them
securely, but take care not to distort the
sealing ring.
14Fuel pump relay - renewal
2
The relay is mounted in the engine
compartment relay box (Chapter 12). Where
more than one relay is fitted, the fuel pump
relay is the one with the black base.
15Fuel tank filler pipe - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Syphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
into a clean container that is designed for
carrying petrol and is clearly marked as such.
2Raise the bottom edge of the seal
surrounding the filler neck and undo the single
securing screw beneath.
3Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4Unscrew the single filler pipe mounting bolt
from the underbody, then work along the
length of the pipe, cutting or releasing any
clips or ties securing other pipes or hoses to
it. Releasing their clips, disconnect the filler
and vent hoses from the pipe’s lower end and
the small-bore vent hoses from the unions at
its upper end.
5Having ensured that all components have
been removed or disconnected which mightprevent its removal, manoeuvre the pipe away
from the vehicle’s underside.
6To check the operation of the pipe’s
anti-leak valve, invert the filler pipe and fill the
lower union (now uppermost) with petrol. If
the valve is functioning correctly, no petrol will
leak from the other union. If petrol leaks from
the other union the valve is faulty and the
complete filler pipe must be renewed.
Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following.
a)Check the condition of all hoses and
clips, renewing any components that are
found to be worn or damaged
b)When reconnecting the small-bore vent
hoses to the unions at the pipe’s upper
end, connect the hose from the charcoal
canister to the uppermost union and the
vent hose from the tank itself to the lower
union (see illustration).
c)Replacing any that were cut on removal
use the clips or ties provided to secure
any other pipes or hoses to the filler pipe.
d)Check carefully for signs of leaks on
refilling the tank; if any signs of leakage
are detected, the problem must be
rectified immediately.
16Fuel tank - removal and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1The procedure is similar as for models with
carburettors. Refer to Chapter 4A, however
note the following:
a)Depressurise the fuel system (Section 8).
b)On models with C16 NZ and X16 SZ
engines, disconnect the exhaust system
from the manifold.
c)When working on the fuel tank sender
unit, note that there is only one hose to be
disconnected.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•7
15.7 Vent hose connections at fuel tank
filler pipe
A Charcoal canister hose
B Tank vent hose
13.3 Fuel pump - ‘in-tank’, fuel pump
model
A Wiring connector
B Fuel hose clampC Mounting bracket
screws
12.8 Fuel pump clamping sleeve should
rest against rim (arrowed)