1987 NISSAN PULSAR four wheel drive

Engine 41

DROP IN OIL PRESSURE
(1) Oil level low in the sump: Check and replen-
ish the oil to the full mark on the dipstick.
(2) Thin or diluted oil: Change to the correct oil
grade and rectify the source of dilution. (3) Oil pump relief valve stuck or spring broken;
Free up the relief valve or renew the broken relief
valve spring. (4) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells or recondition the crankshaft journals as
necessary.
(5) Excessive wear of the oil pump components:
Renew or recondition the oil pump.
NOTE: If the vehicle is not equipped with an
oil pressure gauge re move the oil sender unit
and connect a pressure gauge into the oil
gallery. Check the oil pressure with the
engine cold and hot. If the oil pump or relief
valve are faulty. low pressure will be indi-
cated with the engine both hot and cold.
However, if the bearings are at fault a fairly
high oil pressure will be indicated when the
engine is cold, but a marked drop in pressure
will occur when the engine is hot.

ENGINE WILL NOT ROTATE
(1) Starter motor drive jammed: Remove the
starter motor. Check and renew the damaged drive
and/or flywheel ring gear.
(2) Engine overheated an d seized: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Check and renew any damaged
components. See the following note.
(3) Water in the cylinder due to a blown head
gasket or cracked cylinder block or head: Remove the
cylinder head. If the gasket is blown, check for
cylinder block and head distortion and reface if
necessary. Renew the cylinder head and/or cylinder
block if cracked.
(4) Broken crankshaft, connecting rod. piston
etc. due to overheating, fatigue etc: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Examine and renew any com-
ponents as necessary. (5) Valve head broken off due to overheating,
fatigue etc: Remove the cylinder head and check the
head, piston and cylinder bore for damage. Repair or
renew as necessary.
NOTE: Invariably when an engine seizes
because of overheating due to lack of oil
and/or water, damage is done to the bear-
ings, pistons etc. Although there may be
instances where an engine will start and run
after it has cooled down and the oil and
water have been replenished, it will usually
be found that oil consumption increases, oil
pressure decreases and the engine will be
noisier, depending on the degree of damage.

When a cylinder head gasket blows allow-
ing water into the cylinders, or compression
loss between the cylinders, it is essential to
check the gasket faces on the cylinder block
and head for distortion. Sufficient water can
enter a cylinder because of a blown head
gasket, cracked cylinder or head to prevent
an engine from rotating.

This is normally preceded by difficult
starting, misfiring, excessive steam from the
exhaust and loss of water from the radiator.

Frequent jamming of the starter motor
drive with the flywheel ring gear can be due
to a bent starter armature shaft or damaged
teeth on the drive and/or ring gear. With the
starter motor removed, the flywheel ring
gear teeth can be examined through the
starter motor mounting aperture. Renewal
of the ring gear requires removal of the
transaxle, clutch and flywheel on manual
transaxle models and the removal of the
transaxle and drive plate on automatic
transaxle models. To check for a bent arma-
ture shaft, rotate the shaft by hand while
holding the end in close proximity to a fixed
object.

2. DESCRIPTION
The 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines are basically identi-
cal in design.

Both engines share the same stroke. The 1.8 liter
engine has a larger bore thus giving it increased
capacity.

The engine is a four cylinder, inline, overhead
camshaft design transversely mounted in the front of
the vehicle.

The camshaft runs in five integral support bear-
ings in the camshaft housing which in turn is mounted
directly on to the cylinder head and retained by the
cylinder head bolts.

Camshaft end float is controlled by a retaining
plate engaged in a groove machined in the rear
camshaft journal. The camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft timing gear vi a a reinforced rubber belt.

The aluminum cross flow cylinder head houses
the tappets, rocker arms a nd valve assemblies. An oil
pressure relief valve is installed to the cylinder head to
maintain oil pressure to the hydraulic tappets at a
predetermined setting.

The exhaust valve springs are equipped with
rotators mounted below the valve springs which rotate
the exhaust valve assemblies. The rocker arms pivot
on hydraulic tappet assemblies and locate in notched
lash pads mounted on the valve stems. The camshaft
lobes bear directly onto the rocker arms and due to
the characteristics of the hydraulic tappet assemblies,
no provision is made for tappet clearance adjustment.

Engine 55

9. OIL PUMP
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Disconnect the lower radiator hose and drain
the cooling system. (3) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Refer to the Wheels and Tires
section if necessary. (4) Remove the right hand front wheel.
(5) Remove the fasteners securing the engine
splash guard to the right hand front inner mudguard
and remove the splash guard. (6) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. Remove the oil
filter.
(7) Remove the camshaft timing belt as de-
scribed previously. (8) Disconnect the oil pressure sender electrical
connector. (9) Using a socket and bar, remove the bolt and
spacer retaining the crankshaft timing gear to the
crankshaft. Discard the bolt.
NOTE: It may be necessary to lock the
crankshaft when removing the crankshaft
timing gear retaining bolt. If necessary,
insert a piece of timber between the crank-
case and the crankshaft to prevent the
crankshaft turning.

(10) Remove the crankshaft timing gear from the
crankshaft. It may be necessary to lever the gear from
the crankshaft using two screwdrivers. Remove the
key and spacer from the crankshaft. (11) Remove the camshaft housing top cover.
(12) Using an open ended spanner, hold the
camshaft between the inlet and exhaust lobes of
number four cylinder and remove the camshaft timing
gear retaining bolt and the camshaft timing gear.
(13) Remove the bolts securing the water pump
to the cylinder block and remove the water pump. If
necessary- refer to the Cooling and Heating Systems
section. (14) Remove the camshaft drive belt inner cover
retaining bolts and remove the inner cover. (15) Remove the bolts securing the oil pump to

Dismantled view of the oil pump assembly.
the cylinder block and remove the oil pump from the
engine. Discard the gasket.

(16) Remove the screws retaining the oil pump
cover plate and lift the cover plate from the rear of the
oil pump. (17) Lift the inner and outer rotors from the oil
pump housing. Note that the outer rotor may be
stamped with a mark which must face the cover plate
on assembly. (18) Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve plug
and remove the relief spring and plunger from the oil
pump housing. Discard the sealing washer from the
relief valve plug. (19) If necessary, remove the oil pressure gauge
sender unit.
(20) Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the
pump housing.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT

(1) Wash all the pump components thoroughly
in cleaning solvent and allow to dry.
(2) Inspect the inner and outer rotors and the
cover plate for scoring or wear. Renew the rotors
and/or the cover plate if these faults are evident. (3) Temporarily install the rotors into the oil
pump housing. Check the b acklash between the teeth
of the inner and outer rotors at the point where the
rotor teeth are most closely meshed. If the clearance at
this point exceeds the Specif ications, check the rotors
and housing for wear and renew as necessary. (4) Check the rotor end float by placing a
straight edge across the oil pump housing and measure
the clearance between the straight edge and the rotors
View of the oil pump and associated components.

Electrical System 201
nosed pliers. This will safeguard the diodes
by transferring any excess heat to the jaws of
the pliers.

Using a suitable drift, install the bearing into
the drive end bracket, install the retainer plate and
screws. Tighten the screws securely. Using a suitable press and press plates, install
the bearing to the slip ring end of the rotor shaft.
Ensure that pressure is ex erted only on the inner race
and that the stop ring groove is nearest to the sl i p
rings. Ensure that the rotor sh aft rear bearing stop
ring is positioned so that the protruding part of the
ring is located in the deepest part of the groove. Install the stator, diode pack and
regulator
assembly to the slip ring e nd bracket. Install the
retaining nuts and washers and tighten securely. Install the nut and insulator to the terminal
and tighten securely. Using a piece of wire, hold the brushes in a
retracted position. Hold the drive end bracket in a soft jawed
vice and install the rotor shaft assembly to the drive
end bracket. Install the pulley, retaining nut and washer to
the rotor shaft and tighten the retaining nut to the
specified torque. Apply a heated 200 watt soldering iron to the
slip ring end bracket at the bearing mounting boss for
3-4 minutes to heat the bracket and allow the
installation of the rotor shaft rear bearing. Aligning the marks made on dismantling and
ensuring that the rotor sh aft rear bearing retaining
ring protrusion is located in the deepest part of its
groove, install the rotor/stator assembly to the slip ring
end bracket.
Remove the brush retr acting wire from the
alternator, ensure that the alternator component
marks are aligned, install the retaining through bolts
and tighten them securely. Check the alternator rotor for smooth oper-
ation and install the al ternator to the vehicle
as
previously described.
Check the alternator operation on the vehicle
as previously described.
8. STARTER MOTOR
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Brushes — Soldering iron
To Renew Armature Bearings — Bearing puller
DESCRIPTION
Two types of starter motors are installed to the
range of vehicles covere d by this manual, either
Hitachi or Bosch.

The starter motor is the induced pole type with
four brushes and four pole shoes with field coils.

A solenoid switch is attached to the starter drive
end bracket. The solenoid plunger is connected to
the overrunning clutch and drive pinion assembly
through a lever and pivot arrangement.

When the solenoid windings are energized, the
plunger acting on the lever and pivot engages the drive
pinion with the flywheel ri ng gear and at the same
time closes the switch supplying power from the
positive lead of the battery to the starter motor field
coils and armature to operate the motor.

As the engine fires, the over-running clutch of the
drive pinion assembly prevents high speed rotation of.
and possible damage to, the starter armature if the
solenoid windings are not immediately de-energized
by releasing the ignition key.

The starter solenoid switch windings are energized
by the ignition switch.

TO TEST ON VEHICLE
Should the starter motor fail to operate when the
ignition switch is turned to the Start position, check
the following points:

Check the battery condition and state of
charge. Refer to the Battery heading for the correct
procedure.
Clean the battery terminals, taking particular
care to remove the scale from the positive ( + )
terminal post and terminal. Check the earth connection for tightness and
cleanliness.
Switch on the headlamps and turn the igni-
tion switch to Start. If the lamps dim but the starter
motor does not operate, it could indicate that a short
circuit has developed in the starting system. Check that the engine is not seized or that the
starter motor drive pinion and ring gear are not
locked as these conditions would -give the same
indications as above.

(5) If the lamps do not dim and the starter
motor does not operate, this would indicate an open
circuit such as a broken or disconnected wire or a
switch not operating.

If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transaxle, turn the ignition switch to Start and move
the selector lever through all the gear selection range.
If the starter motor operates in any position other
than N or P, the neutral safety switch is faulty.

(6) Check all the external wiring to ensure that
the fault is not external. If the external circuit proves
satisfactory, indicating that the problem is in the
starter motor, the unit will have to be removed and
tested.

TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
solenoid. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts,