1987 NISSAN PULSAR light

180 Brakes
the caliper body. Plug the brake hose to prevent the
loss of fluid and the ingress of dirt. Remove and
discard the sealing washers.

(3) Remove the guide bolts and slide the caliper
body from the anchor plate and pad assembly. (4) Remove the piston dust cover retaining clip.
Remove and discard the dust cover.
BRAKEPAD BRAKE PAD
Dismantled view of the front brake caliper.
(5) Place a piece of wood in front of the piston
and using low air pressure applied to the brake hose
aperture, gently force the piston from the caliper bore.
(6) Using a thin blunt probe, preferably made
from wood or plastic, remove and discard the piston
seal from the groove in the caliper bore. (7) Clean all the caliper components in methyl-
ated spirits and arrange the components in order, on
a clean, dry surface to aid in assembly.
To Inspect

(1) Inspect the caliper bore and piston for pit-
ting, wear or damage. Renew the caliper assembly or
piston if damage is evident.

NOTE: Slight rust spots in the caliper bore
may he removed with fine emery paper. The
piston must not be polished as the plated
surface wilt be damaged.

(2) Inspect the guide bolts for wear or damage.
Renew as necessary.

To Assemble
(1) Dip a new piston seal in clean hydraulic
brake fluid. Insert the seal into the groove in the
caliper bore ensuring that the seal is correctly seated
and not twisted.
(2) Install a new dust cover to the piston prior to
installing the piston to the caliper bore. (3) Coat the piston and caliper bore with clean
hydraulic brake fluid and insert the piston squarely
into the caliper bore.
(4) Locate the dust seal in the groove of the
caliper body and install the retaining clip.
(5) Lubricate the guide bolts using a suitable
grease. Install the caliper body to the anchor plate and
install and tighten the guide bolts to the
specified
torque. (6) Replenish the master cylinder reservoir with
the recommended fluid and bleed the brakes as
described under the Hydr aulic System heading.
(7) Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. (8) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
BRAKE DISC

To Check Runout
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant front wheel. (2) Install the wheel nuts with the flat side of
the
wheel nut towards the disc. Lightly tighten the nuts to
secure the disc against the hub.

Rotate the hub and check for disc runout.
(3) Mount a dial gauge stand to a suspension
component and position the dial gauge plunger
against the wheel hub. Check that the end float is less
than 0.05 mm. Excessive e nd float will necessitate
renewal of the hub bearing. (4) Position the dial gauge plunger against the
centre of the brake disc. Ro tate the hub and measure
the runout. Maximum allowable runout is 0.07 mm. (5) If the runout exceeds Specifications, machine
or renew the brake disc. (6) Install the fron t wheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
To Remove and Install

(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Remove the relevant wheel. (2) Remove the bolts retaining the caliper an-

Brakes 183

To Dismantle
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it on
chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Remove the brake hose retaining bolt from
the caliper body and plug the hose to prevent the loss
of fluid and the ingress of dirt. (3) Remove the handbrake cable bracket retain-
ing bolt and disconnect the handbrake cable from the
cam lever.
(4) Remove the guide bolts and slide the caliper
body off the pads. (5) Using a pair of long nose pliers with the nose
located in the recesses of the piston, rotate the piston
anticlockwise to remove it from the caliper body.
(6) Remove the dust cover retaining clip and dust
cover. Discard the dust cover. (7) Using a thin blunt probe, preferably made
from wood or plastic, remove and discard the piston
seal from the groove in the caliper bore. (8) Using internal snap ring pliers, remove the
snap ring from the caliper bore. (9) Withdraw the spring cover, spring, key plate,
pushrod and link from the caliper bore. Do not mix
these components from the left and right hand sides as
they differ. (10) Remove and discard the O ring from the
pushrod. (11) Remove the spring, nut and washer from the
cam lever. Remove the cam lever and cam from the
caliper body. (12) Remove the cam seal from the caliper using a
screwdriver.
(13) Clean all the caliper components in methy-
lated spirits and arrange the components in order on a
clean dry surface to aid assembly.
To Inspect

(1) Inspect the caliper bore and piston for pit-
ting, wear or damage. Renew the caliper assembly or
piston if damage is evident.

NOTE: Slight rust spots in the caliper bore
may be removed with fine emery paper. The
piston must not be polished as the plated
surface will be damaged.

(2) Inspect the guide bolts for wear or damage
and renew as necessary.
(3) Inspect the threads of the pushrod for wear or
damage and renew as necessary. (4) Inspect the nut inside the piston for wear,
damage and security. Renew the piston if any damage
is evident. (5) Inspect the cam for wear, damage or pitting,
renew as necessary. (6) Inspect the cam bearing in the caliper body
for wear, damage or pitting and renew the seal and
bearing as necessary. (7) Inspect the guide bolt rubbers for deteriora-
tion, wear or damage. Renew as required. To Assemble

(1)
Lubricate the cam bearing with multipurpose
grease and install the seal. (2) Install the cam and cam lever to the
caliper
body. Install the cam lever spring, washer and nut, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque. (3) Install a new O ring to the pushrod and
install
the link, pushrod, key plate, spring and spring cover to
the caliper body. The key plate must engage the caliper
body. Secure the assembly with the snap ring. (4) Dip a new piston seal in clean hydraulic brake
fluid. Insert the seal into the groove in the caliper bore
ensuring that the seal is correctly seated and not
twisted. (5) Install a new dust cover to the piston prior
to
installing the piston to the caliper bore.
(6) Coat the piston and caliper bore with clean
hydraulic brake fluid and using long nose pliers rotate
the piston clockwise into the caliper bore. (7) Locate the dust seal in the groove of the
caliper body and install the retaining clip.
(8) Lubricate the guide bolts using a suitable
grease. Install the caliper body and tighten the guide
bolts to the specified torque. (9) Replenish the master cylinder reservoir with
the recommended fluid and bleed the brakes as
described under the Hydraulic System heading. (10) Install the rear wheel and lower the vehicle to
the ground. (11) Road test the vehicle and check for correct
brake operation.
BRAKE DISC

To Check Runout
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on
chassis stands. Remove the relevant rear wheel.
(2) Mount a dial gauge stand to a suspension
component and position the dial gauge plunger
against the wheel hub. Check that the end float is less

Using a dial gauge to measure the rear disc runout.

192 Electrical System
transaxle models, check for a faulty or incorrectly
adjusted neutral safety switch.

1. Discharged battery: Check for a fault or short
circuit in the system. 2. Battery fully charged but will not crank
engine. Check for a locked drive and ring gear,
internal starter faul t or seized engine.
3. Fusible link blown: Check and repair the
cause and renew as necessary.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure
that the starter drive is not locked with the
flywheel ring gear and t hat the engine is not
seized. Ensure that the ignition key is
turned off before rotating the engine.

3. LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
LAMP OR LAMPS FAIL TO LIGHT
1. Faulty bulb(s): Check and renew the faulty
bulb(s). 2. Open circuit in the wiring or connections:
Check the lamp circuits and rectify as necessary.

1. Faulty lamp switch: Check and if necessary
renew the lamp switch. 2. Faulty fuse or fuse connection: Repair the
fuse connection or renew the fuse. 3. Lamp relay faulty: Check and renew as
necessary.
NOTE: Switch on the lamps concerned and
using a test lamp, check that the lamp
circuits are operating. This is best done by
starting at the lamp wiring connector or
bulb holder and work ing back to the power
source.

LAMP OR LAMPS INCORRECTLY
ILLUMINATED

1. Lamp or lamps incorrectly earthed: Check
the lamp earth for loosene ss or clean the contact,
either at the lamp body or wire.
2. Incorrect bulbs installe d: Check the bulb
wattage and voltage and renew with the correct type if
necessary. 3. Dirty or damaged lamp reflector: Clean or
renew the lamp reflector. 4. Faulty bulb: Check with a known serviceable
bulb and renew if necessary. 5. Dirty lamp lens: Clean or renew the lamp
lens. 6. High resistance or faulty connections be-
tween the alternator and battery: Check the circuit
and rectify th e condition.
7. Poor earth connection between the battery
and the engine or alternat or: Check the battery earth
lead and the strap between the engine and the body. 8. Voltage regulator faulty: Check and renew
the voltage regulator.
NOTE: The most common cause for this
condition is dirty t erminals on the earth
leads. Check all earth leads at their earthing
points.

4. TURN SIGNAL LAMP TROUBLE SHOOTING
TURN SIGNAL LAMP DOES NOT LIGHT AND
NO AUDIBLE NOISE FROM FLASHER UNIT

(1) Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew the
fuse.

(2) The Flasher unit is faulty: Renew the unit
(3) Turn signal switch faulty: Renew the switch
(4) Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.

TURN SIGNAL WARNING LAMP DOES NOT
FLASH BUT AUDIBLE CLICKING FROM
FLASHER UNIT

(1) Warning lamp bulb blown: Check and renew
the bulb.

Checking the rear combination lamp circuit using a test
lamp.
Checking the headlamp circuit using a test lamp.

Electrical System 193


Installed view of the stop lamp switch and the flasher
unit.
(2) Fault in the warning lamp wiring: Check and
repair the fault.

NOTE: When renewing bulbs ensure that a
new bulb of the correct wattage is used.

TURN SIGNAL LAMPS FLASH WEAKLY AND
AT GREATER THAN NORMAL SPEED

1. Faulty flasher unit: Check and renew the
flasher unit.
2. Front or rear bulb blown on the turn side:
Check and renew the bulb.
NOTE: If the flasher unit is to be renewed,
always try to obtain a genuine replacement
part.

HAZARD WARNING LAMPS DO NOT
OPERATE

Fuse blown: Rectify the fault and renew as
necessary.
Flasher unit faulty: Re new the flasher unit.
Hazard warning switch faulty: Renew the
switch.
Fault in the wiring circuit: Check and repair
the fault.
5. TEST EQUIPMENT AND SOME APPLICATIONS

Special Equipment Required:
To Make Test Lamp or Jumper Lead — Soldering
iron

When working on the electrical system, a test
lamp and jumper leads can be very useful to check
circuits.

TO MAKE A JUMPER LEAD
The minimum materials required to make a
jumper lead are one length of 4 mm wire and two
small alligator clips.

Grouping of materials to construct jumper leads of
various sizes.
Bare both ends of a suitable length of 4 mm
wire. Connect a small alligato r clip to each end of
the wire. Solder and tape the connections. Test the jumper lead for continuity by re-
moving one battery cable and connecting the lead
between the cable and the battery terminal. Turn the
ignition On and the dashboard warning lamps should
operate indicating a completed circuit through the
jumper lead. Remove the jumper lead from the circuit and
reconnect the battery.
NOTE: Make a few jumper leads of various
lengths using different sizes and types of
alligator and battery clips.

TO MAKE A TEST LAMP
Due to the extensive use of electronic components
in the electrical system, an LED (light emitting diode)
test lamp can be made from a suitable length of 3 mm
wire, an alligator clip, an LED, a 1/4 watt 560 ohm
resistor, a suitable case such as an old ball point pen
case and a length of rod or wire sharpened to form a
probe.

(1) Solder the length of wire to the K (cathode)

196 Electrical System



Check the specific gravity in each cell with a hydro-
meter.
Check the battery electrolyte level and re-
plenish as necessary. Remove the filler cap s from the battery.
Follow the battery charger manufacturers
instructions. (3) Should the battery fail to operate satisfacto-
rily after charging, it is recommended that it be taken
to a workshop with the necessary equipment to per-
form a load test. Load testing, when performed in
conjunction with the specific gravity tests described
above will give an accurate indication of the service-
ability of the battery.
7. ALTERNATOR
Special Equipment Required
To Test On Vehicle - Voltmeter, 100-0-100
amp ammeter, ohmmeter
To Dismantle — 200 watt soldering iron,
bearing
puller, press
To Assemble — 200 watt soldering iron
DESCRIPTION
Two types of alternator are installed to the range
of vehicles covered by this manual, either Hitachi or
Bosch. In the alternator, the field and pole shoe assembly
is the moving part and it is shaped to form the rotor.
Since only a low amperage current flows between the
slip rings on the rotor shaft and the brushes, wear on
the brushes and slip rings is very slight and mainte-
nance is reduced to a minimum. The output current is generated in the fixed stator
windings and is a three phase alternating current
(AC). The stator windings are wound on a laminated
soft iron former, star connected and installed between
the end brackets. As it is not possible to charge a storage battery
with alternating current, it is necessary to rectify the
output of the stator windings to direct current (DC). This is done by a bank of diodes mounted within the
alternator slip ring end bracket.
The output of the alternator is governed by the
regulator and the built in ch aracteristics of the alter-
nator.
The regulator and brush holder assembly on
Hitachi alternators is mounted within the alternator
on the slip ring end bracket side. On Bosch
alternators
the regulator and brush holder unit is mounted to the
outside of the slip ring end bracket. An electrical cut out unit is not necessary with the
alternator charging system as the diodes prevent a
reverse current flow through the alternator.
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Ensure that the battery is connected with the
correct polarity to earth. Refer to Specifications.
Do not short out or ground any terminals
common to the charging circuit. Always disconnect the battery before con-
necting a battery charger.
If a booster battery is used, always connect it
in a parallel circuit i.e. positive to positive ( + to + )
and negative to negative (- to -) to maintain a 12
volt supply. Never disconnect the battery or terminals in
the charging circuit while the engine is running. Regularly check that the alternator drive belt
tension is as specified. Refer to the Engine Tune-up
section.
Keep the battery terminals clean and all
electrical connections tight. Disconnect the battery and alternator when
electric welding on the vehicle.
TO TEST ON VEHICLE If the charge indicator lamp stays on after the
engine has been started and run at approximately
1 000 rpm, carry out the following tests. Stop the engine.
Check the condition and adjustment of the
alternator drive belt. Clean the battery terminals, tighten all elec-
trical connections, check the wiring for shorts to earth
and/or bridged circuits. Ensure that the battery is fully
charged. If the battery is discharged charge it or
replace it with one fully charged. Start the engine and allow it to run until
normal operating temperature is reached.
Stop the engine and disconnect the negative
battery terminal.
Remove the nut and washer from the alter-
nator output terminal (B +) and disconnect the alter-
nator output lead. Connect one lead of an ammeter to the
alternator output terminal and the other lead to the
lead removed from the output terminal. Connect the negative battery terminal and
connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.

Electrical System 203
BRUSH HOLDER
Dismantled view of the Hitachi starter motor.
Check the field coil insulation using an
ohmmeter. Connect one test probe to the solenoid
cable terminal and the other test probe to the body of
the yoke. If continuity exists, renew the field coils. Check that the commutator is free from
pitting and burning. Clean the commutator with a
petrol moistened cloth and polish with a strip of fine
glass paper.
A badly worn commutator may be repaired by
mounting in a lathe and taking a light cut using a very
sharp tool with the lathe rotating at high speed. After
machining, undercut the insulation between the seg-
ments to Specifications. Do not machine the commu-
tator to below 29 mm diameter. Check the armature
gear teeth for wear and damage.

Check the armature for short circuit using an
ohmmeter. Place one of the test probes on the
armature shaft or core and move the other test probe
around the periphery of the commutator. If continuity
exists at any point, the armature is faulty and should
be renewed. Check the pinion for wear and damage. The
pinion should move smoothl y along the clutch assem-
bly helical splines. Check the spring, collar and snap
ring for serviceability.
Check that the clutch assembly locks in one
direction and rotates smoothly in the opposite direc-
tion. Check for wear and damage to the reduction gear
teeth on the outside of the clutch assembly.
Check that continuity exists between the
solenoid spade terminal and the solenoid body and
between the solenoid spade terminal and the solenoid
field coil terminal. Renew the solenoid if continuity
does not exist. Renew all the components found to be
unserviceable in the above checks.
To Assemble

Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) If removed, install new bearings to the clutch
assembly and the armature. Lubricate the armature
bearings with high temperature grease.

The sealed bearings on the clutch assembly are
lubricated during manufacture and further lubrication
is unnecessary.

Apply high temperature grease to the yoke
end cover bearing recess, the drive end bracket and
pinion housing bearing recesses, the clutch assembly
reduction gear teeth, the armature gear teeth, the
pinion helical splines, th e solenoid plunger and the
spring and lever. Install the pinion to the clutch assembly and
install the spring and collar to the pinion. Hold the collar down and install the snap ring
to the end of the pinion.
Position the collar over the snap ring. If
necessary, squeeze the snap ring into the groove using
multigrip pliers to enable the collar to be clipped over
the snap ring. Install the pinion and clutch assembly to the
drive end bracket.
Install the pinion housing to the drive end
bracket. Install and tighten the retaining screws
se-
curely. Check that the pinion rotates freely.
Assemble the lever and spring to the solenoid
in the position noted on dismantling.
Install the solenoid assembly and rubber seal
to the drive end bracket.
Install and tighten the solenoid retaining
bolts securely. Connect 12 volts between the solenoid spade
terminal and the solenoid field coil terminal and
measure the distance that the end of the pinion
protrudes from the pinion housing. Pull the pinion by hand until it contacts the stop
and measure the pinion end protrusion.

If necessary, add or subt ract shims between the
solenoid mounting face and the drive end bracket
until the difference between the above measurements
is 0.3-1.5 mm.

Install the armature to the yoke.
Install the brush holder to the yoke. Install
the
PLUNGER
O RING

Electrical System 205


Dismantled view of the brush holder assembly. Bosch
starter motor.
side and the other lead to the negative side. If there is
any indication of leakage the ohmmeter will show a
reading other than infinity. Repair or renew the brush
holder if leakage is evident.

(2) Check the brushes for adequate length.
Brushes should be renewed when their length is below
Specifications. They should be a free sliding fit in the
brush holders.

NOTE: Due to the difficulty involved in
removing and installing the brushes in the
Bosch starter motor, it is recommended that
the brush holder be renewed as an assembly.

(3) Check that the commutator is free from
pitting and burning. Clean with a petrol moistened
cloth and polish with a strip of fine glass paper.

A badly worn commutator may be repaired by
mounting in a lathe, spi nning at high speed, and
taking a light cut with a very sharp tool. After turning,
undercut the insulation between the segments.

(4) Check the armature for short circuit using an
ohmmeter.

Place one of the test lead s on the armature shaft
or core and move the other lead around the circum-
ference of the commutator. If the ohmmeter shows a
reading at any point the armature is faulty and should
be renewed.

Check the drive assembly clutch pinion teeth
for wear, scoring or chipping. A clutch in good
condition should take up the drive in one direction
only. It should rotate easily and smoothly in the
non-drive direction and the assembly should move
smoothly along the armature or drive shaft helical
splines.
Check the armature shaft bushes for wear
and renew as necessary. The old bushes must be
removed and the new ones pressed into the end
brackets using a polished mandrel of the exact diam-
eter of the armature shaft. NOTE: The new bushes must not be reamed
to size, as reaming will impair the porosity
of the bushes and cause early failure. New
bushes should be allowed to stand immersed
in clean light engine oil for one hour before
installation.

To Assemble
Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

Lubricate the helix of the drive shaft lightly
with graphite grease and install the drive assembly
to
the drive shaft. Install the stop collar and snap ring, slide the
stop collar over the snap ring to lock the snap ring in
position.
Lubricate the bushes in both end brackets
sparingly with engine oil. Install the engaging lever and gear set into the
drive end bracket. Install the centre rear bracket and the engag-
ing lever seal into the drive end bracket.
Slide the brush holder assembly into position
on the commutator ensuring that the brush holders
are correctly positioned in the anchor points. Install the commutator end bracket to
the
armature, install the shims and C clip. Check that the armature end float is satisfac-
tory and adjust as necessary using shims of the correct
thickness.
Align the slot in the commutator end bracket
with the cut out on the wiring seal and install the
armature end cover to the commutator end bracket.
Install the cover retaini ng screws but do not tighten.
Ensure that the permanent magnets in the
yoke have not picked up any debris and slide the yoke
over the armature ensuring that the wiring seal locates
correctly in the slot in the yoke.

View showing the planetary gear set. Bosch starter
motor.

206 Electrical System
Install the armature and yoke to the drive end
bracket rotating the drive to align the reduction gears.
Do not use force.
Install the retaining through bolts to the
commutator end bracket and lighten the through bolts
and armature end cover retaining screws securely. Install the solenoid to the drive end bracket,
install the retaining screws and tighten them securely.
Install the brush connector strap and
install
the retaining nut and washer and tighten securely.
9 . IGNITION SYSTEM

The testing and repair procedures for the ignition
system are fully covered in the Fuel and Engine
Management section.

10. STEERING WHEEL
The removal and installation procedures for the
steering wheel and horn pad are fully covered in the
Steering section.

11. SWITCHES AND CONTROLS
IGNITION SWITCH
To Remove and Install
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover. Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover. Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover.

Disconnect the ignition switch wiring at the
switch. Remove the retaining screw and withdraw
the ignition switch fr om the lock assembly.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.

COMBINATION SWITCH
The combination switch is mounted at the top of
the steering column and incorporates two switches.
The parking lamp, headlamp, headlamp flasher, head-
lamp dipper and turn signal lamps are operated by a
lever on the right hand side. A lever on the left hand
side operates the windscreen washer and wiper switch.

These switches can be re newed without removing
the combination switch.

To Remove and Install Switches
Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover.
Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover.

View of the combination switch removed from the
vehicle.
Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
applicable switch. Remove the retaining screws located at the
top and bottom of the applicable switch and remove
the switch. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.

To Remove and Install Combination Switch Base
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the steering wheel as described in
the Steering section Remove the retaining screws from the steer-
ing column cover. Unclip and separate the upper and lower
steering column covers and remove the upper cover.
Release the column adjusting lever and re-
move the lower cover by guiding the column adjusting
lever through the hole in the upper end of the cover.
Dismantled view of the steering lock and ignition
switch assembly