1987 NISSAN PULSAR check engine

56 Engine

Checking the oil pump rotor end float.
with a feeler gauge. Renew the oil pump if this
clearance exceeds the Specifications.

(5) Check the cover plate for wear and scoring
and renew as necessary. (6) Check the relief valve plunger and spring for
wear or damage. Renew any faulty components as
necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL

Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) Liberally lubricate all components with clean
engine oil before assembly. (2) Install the relief valve plunger and spring into
the pump housing and install the relief valve
plug
using a new sealing washer. Tighten the plug securely. (3) Install the outer rotor into the pump housing with the F mark on the rotor facing towards the cover
plate, if applicable. Install the inner rotor ensuring that
it is correctly meshed with the teeth of the outer rotor.

(4)
Install the cover plate to the oil pump housing
and tighten the retaining screws to the specified
torque. (5) Install a new oil seal to the front of the oil
pump housing. Ensure that the lip of the oil seal faces
the inside of the oil pump housing. (6) If necessary, install the oil pressure gauge
sender unit.
(7) Turn the inner rotor in the oil pump housing.
Ensure that the oil pump rotates freely. (8) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are thoroughly clean. Coat
the oil pump gasket with an oil resistant sealer and
install the oil pump and gasket to the cylinder block. It
may be necessary to turn the oil pump slightly to align
the inner rotor and crankshaft. Tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: Ensure that the oil seal installed to
the oil pump is not damaged when the oil
pump is positioned on the crankshaft.

(9) Install the camshaft drive belt inner cover.
(10) Install the water pump using a new O ring.
Coat the water pump and the engine block mating
surfaces with Dow Corning silicone grease or equiva-
lent. Do not fully tighten the water pump retaining
bolls at this stage. (11) Install the camshaft timing gear and tighten
the retaining bolt to the specified torque.
(12) Install the crankshaft timing gear spacer, key
and timing gear to the crankshaft. (13) Using a new crankshaft timing gear retaining
bolt, install the spacer and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. (14) Ensure that the oil pump pickup pipe and
screen are clean and free of foreign material. Install a
new O ring to the pipe and position the pickup pipe
and screen in position on the oil pump. Coat the
threads of the mounting bolts with Loctite 242 and
torque the bolts to the specified torque. (15) Fill a new oil filter with the correct grade of
engine oil and install the oil filter. (16) Install the sump as previously described.
(17) Install and adjust the camshaft drive belt as
described under the Camshaft Drive Belt heading. (18) Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil. Refer to the Lubrication and Mainte-
nance section.
(19) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (20) Start and run the engine and check for oil
and coolant leaks. (21) Install the engine splash guard to the
inner
right hand mudguard. (22) Install the right hand wheel and tighten the
wheel nuts as much as possible.
Checking the oil pump inner to outer rotor teeth
backlash.

Engine 57
(23) Lower the vehicle to the ground and securely
tighten the wheel nuts.

10. PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS AND
CYLINDER BORES

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, cylinder measuring
gauge
To Remove Ridge from Bores — Ridge removal tool
To Deglaze Cylinder Bores — Cylinder surfacing
hone
To Install — Piston ring compressor
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (2) Remove the cylinder head as previously
described. (3) Mark the relationship of the pistons to their
respective cylinders and the bearing caps to their
respective connecting rods by letter stamps or centre
punch marks. (4) Measure each connecting rod for side clear-
ance on the crankpin. Refer to the illustration. If the
clearance exceeds the Speci fications a new connecting
rod will have to be installed on assembly. (5) With number one cylinder on the bottom of
its stroke, remove the bear ing cap bolts and the
bearing cap. Wipe the bearing shell and the exposed part of the
journal with a piece of clean lint free cloth, insert a
piece of Plastigage across the journal, install the
bearing cap and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.

Remove the bolts and cap and measure (with the
scale on the packet) the spread width of the Plastigage
to determine the bearing clearance.

Compare the measurement to the Specifications
and if the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a
new bearing on assembly.

Repeat the procedure on the remaining cylinders
and note each individual bearing clearance for assem-
bly purposes.

NOTE: Do not rotate the engine while the
Plastigage is in position or false readings
will result.

Dismantled view of the piston and connecting rod
components.
(6) Remove each bearing cap in turn, keeping
them in order, and using a wooden hammer shaft,
push each piston assembly from the cylinder block
and install its respective bearing cap.

NOTE: Before removing the pistons, remove
the ridge from the top of the cylinder bore
using a ridge removal tool.

(7) Remove the piston rings over the top of the
piston and discard the piston rings.

Checking the connecting rod side clearance using feeler
gauges.

58 Engine

TO INSPECT PISTONS AND CONNECTING
RODS
(1) Remove all carbon deposits from the bottom
of the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaning tool or
a broken ring. Use caution to avoid scoring the
bottom and sides of the ring groove.

NOTE; An ideal method of removing carbon
deposits from pistons is to immerse the
piston in a tank of chemical cleaner. After
soaking, the carbon can be readily hosed off
with water. This method minimizes the
chance of damage through scraping, particu-
larly with aluminum alloy components.

(2) Inspect the pistons for sc uff marks, scoring or
burning. (3) Inspect the ring grooves of the pistons for
excessive wear. Using a new piston ring, check the
clearances between the side of the ring and the ring
lands of the piston with feeler gauges. Compare the
side clearance with the Specifications. (4) Inspect each pair of bearing shells for wear
especially on an outer edge. If one or more pairs of
bearing shells are worn on the outer edge it is possible
that the connecting rod is bent. (5) Before renewing a piston or connecting rod,
inspect the cylinder block to see if it requires reboring
or honing.
If the cylinder block requires reboring, new over-
size pistons will have to be installed.

(6) If a piston or connecting rod is to be
renewed, a special tool wi ll be required to press the
gudgeon pin from the connecting rod. To install the
piston and gudgeon pin to the connecting rod, the
gudgeon pin boss must be accurately heated to 280
degrees C before the gudgeon pin can be inserted in
the little end of the connecting rod.


Replacement connecting rods are supplied only at
their highest production weight and must be matched
to the weight of the remaining connecting rods by
filing the big end boss. For these reasons it is
recommended that the work be entrusted to a repu-
table engine reconditioner w ho will have the special-
ised equipment and knowledge to carry out this work.

TO INSPECT CYLINDER BLOCK AND BORES
With the pistons removed as previously de-
scribed, carry out the following checks and measuring
procedures:

(1) Check the cylinder bores for cracks, scores or
scuffs.


Check for cylinder bore wear. Difference between A
and B measurement at top of piston travel is out of
round dimension. Difference between A at top and at
bottom of piston travel is cylinder taper.

(2) Using an accurate cylinder gauge, measure
each cylinder bore for wear. Take the measurements,
at the upper and lower sections of the bore in two
directions — along and across the cylinder block.
Refer to the illustration.
(3) If the wear in any cylinder exceeds the
specified limit, rebore and hone all the cylinders to the
nearest oversize for pistons and rings. (4) With a straight edge and feeler gauge, check
the top face of the cylinder block for distortion, using
the same procedure described for the cylinder head.
STRAIGHT EDGE
Measuring the piston ring side clearance.
Checking the cylinder block face for distortion.

Engine 59
(5) If the engine is completely dismantled, thor-
oughly clean the cylinder block with solvent and
compressed air paying particular attention to the
oilways. Inspect the block for cracks and damage.

TO CHECK PISTON CLEARANCE
(1) Using an accurate cylinder measuring gauge,
measure and note the diameter of each bore as
previously described. (2) Measure each piston skirt using a microme-
ter as follows:
(a) On 1.6 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 9 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis. (b) On 1.8 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 6 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis.
(3) The difference between the bore and the
piston measurement is the piston clearance. If the
clearance exceeds the Specifications, renew the pistons
and rebore all the cylinders.
(4) Cylinders that have had new pistons installed
or that have been rebored should have the piston
clearance checked again.

and not engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or
kerosene.

(2) Honing should be carried out by moving the
hone up and down fast enough to obtain a cross hatch
pattern. When hone marks intersect at 60 degrees, the
pattern is most satisfactory for correct seating of rings.
(3) After honing it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives.
NOTE: When deglazing, the cylinder should
be honed only sufficiently to eliminate the
glazed condition. Excessive honing will in-
crease the bore size and alter the piston
clearance.

(4) When honing is complete, ensure that the
cylinder bore, crankcase area and oilways are thor-
oughly cleaned. (5) After the cylinder block has been cleaned and
dried, wipe the bores with a lint free cloth and smear
them with engine oil to prevent rusting.
NOTE: All abrasives must be removed from
the engine components after honing. A so-
lution of soap and water should be used with
a brush and the components thoroughly
dried. A bore can be considered clean when
it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and
the cloth remains clean. Oil the bores after
cleaning to prevent rusting.

TO FIT NEW PISTON RINGS AND INSTAL
PISTONS

Once the correct piston and the bore relationship
has been determined and the pistons cleaned or
renewed as necessary, proceed as follows:

(1) Place a ring into number one cylinder bore
and using an inverted piston push the ring down 50
mm into the cylinder bore. (2) Withdraw the piston and measure the gap in
the ring with feeler gauges. Adjust the end gap of the
ring by filing as necessary. See the Specifications for
the ring end gap.
Measuring the piston diameter using a micrometer. On
1.6 liter models, dimension A = 9 mm. On 1.8 liter
models, dimension A - 6 mm.
TO INSPECT AND DEGLAZE CYLINDER
BORES

Cylinder bores that are fit for further service with
the original pistons, but require re-ringing, should be
deglazed with a hone. Before honing the cylinder
bores with crankshaft insta lled, place plenty of clean
rag over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials
from entering the crankcase area.

(1) Deglaze the cylinder walls using a cylinder
surfacing hone equipped with suitable stones. Inspect
the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil
Checking the piston ring end gap.

60 Engine
NOTE: Should the ring end gap be greater
than the specified gap, another ring set
should be obtained and the ring end gaps
checked and compared with the Specifica-
tions.

(3) Treat each ring and cylinder bore individu-
ally and ensure that the rings are assembled to the
respective piston for the cylinder bore in which they
were installed to check the end gap.
(4) Assemble each oil control ring to its respec-
tive piston bottom groove as follows:
(a) Install the oil ring expander to the
piston
groove, ensuring that the ends of the expander are
bulled together and not overlapped. (b) Position one end of the lower side rail in the
groove and peel the ring over the piston and into the
groove. (c) Similarly install the upper side rail.
(5) Install the lower compression ring into
the
lower piston groove.

NOTE: The compression rings should be
installed with the manufacturers mark fac-
ing the top of the piston. To minimize the
possibility of ring breakage the rings can be
immersed in hot water prior to installation.

(6) Install the upper compression ring into
the
upper piston groove.
(7) Space the compression ring gaps 120 degrees
apart, and ensure that the o il ring gaps and the join in
the oil ring expander are not aligned. (8) With the rings correctly installed and
gapped, remove the bearing cap from the connecting
rod. (9) Liberally lubricate the piston assembly and
install the piston ring compressor to number one
piston.
NOTE: When installing the pistons to the

cylinder ensure that the front marking on
the piston is towards the front of the engine.

(10) Turn the crankshaft until number one crank-
pin is at the bottom of its stroke. (11) Install number one piston and connecting
rod
assembly into its bore. Push the assembly down the
bore until the connecting rod can be aligned with
number one crankpin.
NOTE: The bearing shells should be lubri-
cated with engine oil before installation.

(12) Install the connecting rod cap and tighten
the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

NOTE: If new bearing shells were installed,
check the bearing clearance with Plastigage
as previously described.

(13) With the bearing clearance as specified, in-
stal the remaining pistons in the same manner.
(14) Ensure that the crankshaft turns without
binding.
(15) With all connecting rod bolts tightened to
the specified torque, install the associated
components
by referring to the relevant headings in this section.
11. CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, Vee blocks, dial gauge
TO REMOVE
(1) With the engine assembly removed from the
vehicle and the transaxle separated from the engine,
refer to the appropriate headings or sections and
remove the following components: sump, oil pump
pickup pipe, oil pump, and flywheel or drive plate. (2) Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the



Using a ring compressor to install the piston.
Checking the crankshaft end float using feeler gauges.

Engine 61
rear main bearing cap and engine block. Discard the
oil seal.

(3) Ensure that all main bearing and connecting
rod bearing caps are numbered to ensure correct
assembly. (4) Remove the connecting rod bolts and caps,
keeping them in order. Push each piston and connect-
ing rod slightly up into the bore without pushing the
piston beyond its upper limit. (5) Check the crankshaft end float by inserting a
feeler gauge between the shaft and the centre main
bearing, or by mounting a dial gauge with its plunger
against one end of the shaft. (6) Push the crankshaft into contact with the
front edge of the centre main bearing, then lever the
shaft forward to determine the end float.
(7) If the end float exceeds the Specifications,
renew the centre main bearing on assembly. (8) Check the main bearing clearance by the
Plastigage method as follows:
(a) Remove one bearing cap and with a piece of
rag wipe the journal and bearing clean.
(b) Position a piece of Plastigage, the approxi-
mate length of the bearing width and slightly off
centre, on the bearing surface of the crankshaft
journal. (c) Install the bearing ca p and tighten the cap
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft while
the Plastigage is in position.

(d) Remove the cap bolts and carefully detach
the cap and lower half bearing. (e) With the Plastigage scal e, measure the com-
pressed Plastigage strip to determine the clearance. (f) The widest point of the strip will indicate the
minimum clearance and th e narrowest point the
maximum clearance. (g) The remaining bearings can be checked in
turn using the same procedure.
(9) Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase using
care not to dislodge or damage the upper halves of the
main bearing shells if they are to be used again. (10) If new bearing shells are to be installed,
remove the upper halves of the bearings from the
crankcase.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT

After thoroughly cleaning the crankshaft in sol-
vent and drying it with co mpressed air, blow out all
the oilways and make the following checks:

(1) Check and measure the main bearing jour-
nals and crankpins for wear, taper and scoring. If wear
is excessive, the journals and/or crankpins should be
ground to accommodate the nearest underside bearing
shells.

One worn or damaged journal or crankpin will
necessitate the grinding of all the journals or crank-


View of the centre main bearing showing the side
faces which control crankshaft end float.
pins and the installation of new undersize bearing
shells.

If wear or damage is such that the journals or
crankpins cannot be reground to take any one range of
the available undersize bearings, the crankshaft will
have to be renewed.

(2) Support the crankshaft at each end in Vee
blocks and with a dial gauge, check the crankshaft for
bend at the centre main jour nal. Renew the crankshaft
if the bend is in excess of the allowable limit. Refer to
the Specifications.
(3) Check the centre main bearing side faces for
pitting or wear. If pitting or wear is evident, renew the
main bearing shells as a set which should restore the
crankshaft end float to the Specifications. (4) Even when the main bearing clearance has
been found to be satisfact ory, inspect the bearing
shells for scores, flaking and pitting. Renew the main
bearing shells as a set if necessary.
TO INSTAL

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that all of the oilways are clear and
that all the journals and crankpins have been thor-
oughly cleaned. Ensure that the bearing shells have
been cleaned and smeared with new engine oil and that
they are correctly positioned in their respective web,
connecting rod or cap. (2) Carefully place the crankshaft in position in
the cylinder block and guide the connecting rods to
their respective crankpins.
(3) If new bearing shells were installed, check the
bearing clearance using the Plastigage method as
previously described. (4) Install the rear main bearing cap and inject
Permatex Ultra Grey or equivalent sealer into the grooves
in the side of the rear bearing cap. Fill the grooves.

Engine


Main bearing cap removed showing the location of the rear seal and sealant grooves.
until the sealant appears at the inner, lower edge of the
bearing cap to cylinder block joint. Install the bearing
cap bolts and tighten to the specified torque.

(5) Tighten the remaining main bearing cap
bolts and the connecting rod cap bolts to their
respective tensions and rotate the crankshaft to check
for binding. (6) Install the crankshaft oil seal to the end of the
crankshaft after applying lithium grease to the lip of
the oil seal. Ensure that the l i p of the seal is facing
towards the engine.
(7) Install the remainder of the engine compo-
nents by referring to the relevant headings in this
section.
TO RENEW MAIN BEARINGS -
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

(1) Remove the automatic transaxle or manual
transaxle as described in the appropriate section.

(2) Remove the flywheel/drive plate as outlined
under the Flywheel/Drive Plate heading. (3) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (4) Ensure that the main bearing caps are num-
bered to ensure correct assembly. (5) Remove the main bearing cap bolts and
remove the bearing cap and half shell of the bearing to
be renewed. Thoroughly clean the bearing cap in
solvent. (6) Where necessary, use the Plastigage method
to measure the bearing clearance.
(7) Position a piece of Plastigage the approxi-
mate length of the bearing width, across the bearing
shell in the cap and tigh ten the cap bolts to the
specified torque. Do not rotate the crankshaft. (8) Remove the bearing cap and measure the
spread width of the Plastigage with the scale on the
packet to determine the main bearing clearance.
Compare the measurement to the Specifications and if
the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a new
set of bearing shells.
NOTE: Renew one bearing at a time, leav-
ing the others securely attached.

(9) Install a brass rivet in the crankshaft journal
oil drilling and rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise
direction until the head of the rivet contacts the plain
edge of the upper bearing shell. (10) Continue to rotate the crankshaft to carry
the upper half of the bearing shell out of the crank-
case.
(11) Select a half shell of the required thickness
(standard or undersize), coat it liberally with clean
engine oil and start it, plai n edge first, into position on
the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that the rivet contacts the locating lug edge of the
bearing shell, carrying it into position in the crankcase
above the main bearing journal. Slightly reverse the
rotation of the crankshaft and remove the rivet from
the oil drilling in the crankshaft. (12) Place the other half shell of the selected
bearing shells in the bear ing cap. checking the clear-
ance as detailed in operations (7) and (8).
NOTE: By checking the taper on the plas-
tigage any taper of the bearing journal can
be calculated.

(13) When the bearing has been correctly selected
to give the specified clearance, tighten the cap bolts to
the specified torque. (14) Use the same method to renew the other
main bearings. (15) When renewing the rear main bearings, re-
move and discard the rear crankshaft oil seal. (16) Install the rear main bearing cap into position
and inject KP510-00150 sealant or equivalent into the
grooves in the sides of the rear bearing cap. Fill the
grooves until the sealant a ppears at the inner lower
View showing the numbering and correct location of
the main bearing caps.

Engine
edge of the bearing cap to cylinder block joint. Install
the bearing cap bolts and tighten to the specified
torque.

(17) Lubricate the l i p of the new oil seal with
lithium grease and carefully install the seal into
position over the crankshaft . Insert the seal as far as
possible using finger pressure and then fully install the
sea! using a tubular drift. Ensure that the seal is not
damaged during installation and that the seal is
mounted square to the block face.
(18) Install the remainder of the engine
compo-
nents by referring to the relevant headings in
this
section.
TO RENEW CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS

Front
(1) Remove the camshaft drive belt as previ-
ously described.
(2) Disconnect the lower radiator hose and drain
the cooling system. (3) Select fifth gear on manual transaxle models
and firmly apply the handbrake. (4) On automatic transaxle models, remove the
torque converter inspection cover to allow access to
the ring gear. Have an assi stant hold the ring gear
using a suitable lever. (5) Remove the crankshaft timing gear retaining
bolt and discard. (6) Remove the crankshaft timing gear from the
crankshaft. It may be necessary to lever the gear from
the crankshaft using two screwdrivers. Remove the
key and spacer from the crankshaft. (7) Using a centre punch, tap a small hole in the
front face of the oil seal. (8) Insert a self tapping screw into the hole.
(9) Remove the seal from the oil pump by
gripping and pulling the end of the screw with a pair
of pliers. (10) Coat the l i p of a new seal with multi-purpose
grease. (11) Install the oil seal to the oil pump using a
tubular drift. Ensure that the lip of the oil seal faces
the inside of the housing.
(12) Install the remaining components in the re-
verse order of removal, usi ng a new crankshaft timing
gear retaining bolt and referring to the relevant
headings in this section as necessary.
Rear

(1) Remove the automatic transaxle or manual
transaxle as described in the appropriate section. (2) Remove the flywheel/drive plate as described
under the following heading. (3) Lever the oil seal from the rear of the
crankcase being careful not to damage the crankshaft.
(4) Coat the lip of a new seal with Lithium
grease.
(5) Install the oil seal over the crankshaft. Ensure
that the li p of the oil sea l faces towards the engine.
(6) Insert the seal as far as possible using finger
pressure, and then fully seat the seal using a tubular
drift. (7) Install the remaining components in the
re-
verse order of removal, referring to the relevant
headings in this section as necessary.
12. FLYWHEEL/DRIVE PLATE

Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Ring Gear — Suitable heat source
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the transaxle from the vehicle as
described in the Manual or Automatic Transaxle
sections, whichever is applicable. (2) On manual transaxle models, mark the fly-
wheel and the clutch pressure plate cover to ensure
correct assembly.
View of the drive plate and retaining bolts.
Progressively loosen and remove the pressure
plate retaining bolts.

Using a dial gauge, check the runout of the clutch
face contacting surface of the flywheel. If the runout
exceeds 0.3 mm have the flywheel face surfaced by a
clutch specialist or authorized dealer.

(3) Suitably mark the flywheel or drive plate so
that the unit can be installed in the original position
on the crankshaft. Remove the retaining bolts. (4) Lift the flywheel or drive plate from the
engine.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT

Inspect the clutch face contacting surface of the
flywheel for cracks or excessive scoring.

(2) Inspect the ring gear teeth for damage, cracks
or wear. The ring gear on manual transaxle models
can be renewed separately from the flywheel, but on