1987 NISSAN PULSAR check engine

Roadside Trouble Shooting 35


View showing the location of the fuel pump fuse and the EGI and fuel pump relays.
switch. When starting the engine, the fuel
pump will not operate until the oil pressure
is sufficient to extinguish the oil pressure
warning lamp. Therefore it will be necessary
to operate the starter motor for a longer
period than usual to start the engine.

(3) If the fuel pump cannot be felt operating,
check the fuel pump fuse located in the fuse panel
adjacent to the steering column.

If the fuel pump fuse is serviceable, refer to the
Fuel and Engine Management section for detailed
tests on the fuel pump.

(4) Check that all fuel hose connections are
secure.
(5) Remove the spark plugs and check for petrol
saturation of the electrodes which indicates flooding.
Thoroughly clean and dry the spark plugs before
replacement. Fully depress the throttle pedal and turn the
ignition switch to the start position. If the engine does
not start, proceed as follows.

Check that the MAP sensor hose is not blocked or split
and ensure that all electrical connections are clean and
secure.
If flooding persists, refer to the Fuel and Engine
Management section.

(6) Check that all EFI electrical wiring connec-
tors are clean and secure.
(7) Check that the MAP sensor vacuum hose is
securely connected at each end and is not split or
blocked.
4. TO CHECK MECHANICAL SYSTEM
The following check procedure assumes that the
starter motor will rotate the engine. If not, on manual
transaxle models, depress the clutch pedal to disen-
gage the engine from the tr ansaxle in case the fault lies
within the transaxle.

If the starter motor will not rotate the engine, it
will be necessary to remove the starter motor and
attempt to turn the engine over manually. This will
establish whether the fault lies with the starter motor,
which could be jammed or defective, or with the
engine, which could be seized or have broken internal
components such as connecting rods, pistons and
crankshafts etc.

If the starter motor is not at fault and the engine
will not rotate manually, refer to the Engine Mechan-
ical Trouble Shooting heading in the Engine section.

It should be noted that the only way that cylinder
compression can be accurately tested is with a com-
pression gauge. The method described in the following
procedure is only intended to give a rough indication
when checking for causes of engine breakdown,

(I) When the engine is cool, check for loss of
coolant from the cooling system.

If coolant loss is evident, check carefully for any
indication of external leakage. Remove the engine oil
dipstick and check for wate r contamination (emulsi-
fication) of the oil. When oil mixes with water it will
Ensure that all fuel connections are securely tightened.

36 Roadside Trouble Shooting


Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the dipstick.
turn creamy. The oil level will also have increased. If
the oil is emulsified, proceed to operation (5).

(2) Remove the fusible link that is positioned
third from the front of th e fusible link connection
block, located at the rear of the battery. Disconnect
the coil high tension lead from the coil. (3) Remove all of the spark plugs except one.
(4) Have an assistant operate the ignition switch
to rotate the engine and listen to the sound made by
the engine as it is being turned over. Move the spark
plug to a different cylinder and repeat the lest. By performing the same test on all cylinders, a
rough comparison can be made to determine if there
is any loss of compression in any cylinder. This will be
apparent by the different sound made by the engine as
it is being turned over.

Normally, if the compression is satisfactory the
cylinder with the spark plug installed will create a
resistance to the rotating engine.

However, if the compression is low in a particular
cylinder, the engine will tu rn over easily and smoothly
when that spark plug is in place.

(5) If the above checks show a loss of coolant
which is present in the engine oil or on the spark plug,
one or more of the following faults may be the cause:

Blown cylinder head gasket.
Cracked cylinder or cylinder head.
If the compression check showed any weak or
inconsistent compressions, in addition to the above
faults any of the following could also be the cause:

Broken piston{s)
Burnt or broken valve(s).
Provided the previous checks do not indicate an

View showing the location of the fusible links.
internal leakage of coolant, proceed with the follow-
ing:

(6) Remove the distributor cap and, with the aid
of an assistant operating th e starter motor, check that
the rotor arm rotates as the engine turns over. (7) Remove the camshaft hous ing top cover and.
again with an assistant operating the ignition switch,
check that all the valves open and close as the engine
turns over.
If the rotor arm or valves do not operate with
engine rotation, one of the following faults may be the
cause:

Rotor arm does not turn but valves operate:
Distributor drive shaft broken.

Rotor arm and valves do not operate: Broken
camshaft drive belt. Sheare d crankshaft timing gear
drive key. Sheared camshaft liming gear drive dowel.

Provided that all the previous checks have been
performed correctly and the operator is satisfied that
none of the components are at fault, all that remains
is for the ignition and valve timing to be checked. It
should be noted, however, that if loss of valve timing
proves to be the fault, th e cause of this occurrence
must be sought and rectified.

(8) In order to check the valve timing it will be
necessary to remove the distributor cap and the
camshaft housing top cover and turn the engine
clockwise via the crankshaft pulley until No. 1 piston
is at TDC on the compression stroke. In this position
the valves of No. 1 cylinder should be closed, the
valves of No. 4 should be rocking and the distributor
rotor should be pointing to the No. 1 high tension lead
segment in the distributor cap.

Engine 39
Oil pump cover plate screws............................ 6 Nm
Oil pump mounting bolts.................................. 6 Nm
Oil pump pickup bolts
(coat with Loctite 242)..................................... 8 Nm
Sump bolts (coat with Loctite 242) .................. 5 Nm
Sump drain plug .............................................. 35 Nm
*Use new bolts
Head bolts maximum torque 135 Nm

1. ENGINE MECHANICAL TROUBLE
SHOOTING

ENGINE MISSES AT IDLING SPEED
NOTE: For other causes of engine misfire,
refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section.

(1) Blown head gasket: Check the cylinder com-
pressions and renew the he ad gasket as necessary.
(2) Burnt valves or seats in the cylinder head:
Check the cylinder compressions and overhaul the
cylinder head as necessary. (3) Broken or worn piston rings: Check the
cylinder compressions and renew the piston rings as
necessary.
(4) Weak or broken valve springs: Remove the
camshaft housing top cover and check the condition
of the valve springs. (5) Air leak at the inlet manifold gasket; Check
for air leaks by applying oil around the manifold
joints. Renew the gasket if an air leak is evident.
NOTE: Use a compre ssion gauge and check
the compression pressure in each cylinder as
described in the Engine Tune-up section. If
a low pressure reading is indicated in one or
more cylinders, remove the cylinder head for
gasket and valve inspection. Should the


gasket and valves prove satisfactory, inspect
the cylinder bores, pistons and rings.

Check for air leaks at the inlet manifold
by applying engine oil around the manifold
joints. If the oil can be seen or heard sucking
into the manifold or excessive smoke begins
to issue from the exhaust system, there is an
air leak at the inlet manifold.

NOISY VALVE OPERATION
(1) Faulty hydraulic tappets: Renew the faulty
tappet assemblies. (2) Weak or broken valve springs: Remove the
camshaft housing top cover and check the condition
of the valve springs. (3) Worn valve guides: Overhaul the cylinder
head as described in this section. (4) Worn rocker gear: Remove (he rocker gear
and check the components for wear.

Camshaft lobe wear is also a cause of noisy valve
operation.
BIG END BEARING NOISE
(1) Inadequate oil supply: Check the oil level in
the sump and the condition of the oil pump and relief
valve. Renew the oil filter.

(2) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells, check and regrind the big end journals if
oval or tapered. (3) Thin oil or oil diluted by petrol or water:
Change to the correct oil grade. Check and rectify the
cause of the oil dilution. Ch eck that the engine is not
operating in overheat conditions.
(4) Low oil pressure: Check the engine oil level.
Check the pressure relief valve and spring and the oil
filter bypass valve. (5) Misaligned big end bearings: Align the con-
necting rods and renew the big end bearing shells.
NOTE: Big end bearing noise is indicated
by a metallic knock wh ich is usually loudest
at approximately 60 km/h with the throttle
Air leaks at the inlet manifold can be located by
applying engine oil around the suspect joints.

40 Engine


Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the dipstick.
dosed. Before dismantling the engine to
inspect the big ends check the engine oil for
correct level and dilution on the dipstick.
Also, remove the oil pressure sender unit
and connect an oil pressure gauge into the
oil gallery to check the oil pressure readings.

MAIN BEARING NOISE (APPARENT)
(1) Loose flywheel: Tighten the flywheel securing
bolls to the specified torque. (2) Low oil pressure: Check the bearing to
journal clearance. Check the condition of the oil
pump and pressure relief valve. Recondition the oil
pump as necessary. (3) Excessive crankshaft end float: Renew the
main bearings. (4) Crankshaft journals out of round and exces-
sive bearing to journal clear ance: Regrind the journals
and renew the bearings (undersize).
(5) Insufficient oil supply: Replenish the oil in
the sump to the correct level.
NOTE: Main bearing noise is indicated by a
heavy but dull knock when the engine is
under load. A loose flywheel is indicated by
a thud or dull click when the ignition is
turned off. It is us ually accompanied by
vibration.

Crankshaft end float noise is indicated by
a sharp rap at idle speed. The crankshaft
can be readily checked for excessive end
float by levering the crankshaft backwards
and forwards.

If the oil pressure is not satisfactory,
remove the main bearing caps and assess
the bearing clearance using the Plastigage
method as described in this section. Ovality
and wear on the main bearing journals can
only be checked with a micrometer after the
crankshaft has been removed.

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
(1) Oil leaks: Check and renew the engine gas-
kets or seals as necessary.
(2) Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals:
Dismantle the cylinder head and renew the damaged
or worn oil seals. (3) Excessive valve stem to valve guide clear-
ance: Ream the valve guides and renew the valves as
necessary. (4) Worn or broken piston rings: Renew the
piston rings on all pistons. (5) Rings too tight or stuck in the grooves:
Renew the rings and clean the ring grooves.
(6) Excessive wear in the cylinders, pistons and
rings: Recondition the cylinders and renew the pistons
and rings. (7) Compression rings incorrectly installed. Oil
rings clogged or broken: Renew the piston rings.
NOTE: Before checking the engine for oil
leaks the engine should be completely de-
greased and cleaned. Run the engine at
operating temperature for a period and
visually check for oil leakage. By placing
white paper on the floor directly beneath the
engine any excessive leak can be readily
pinpointed.

Damaged or worn valve stem oil seals
which allow oil to be drawn down past the
valve stems into the combustion chambers
can be diagnosed by allowing the engine to
idle for a few minutes and then opening the
throttle. If oil is being drawn past the valve
stems a heavy discharge of blue smoke will
be seen at the tailpipe.

Piston, ring and cylinder bore troubles are
normally accompanied by a loss of compres-
sion. Cylinder compression can only be
accurately assessed by using a compression
gauge.

Run the engine over white paper to check for oil leaks.

Engine 41

DROP IN OIL PRESSURE
(1) Oil level low in the sump: Check and replen-
ish the oil to the full mark on the dipstick.
(2) Thin or diluted oil: Change to the correct oil
grade and rectify the source of dilution. (3) Oil pump relief valve stuck or spring broken;
Free up the relief valve or renew the broken relief
valve spring. (4) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells or recondition the crankshaft journals as
necessary.
(5) Excessive wear of the oil pump components:
Renew or recondition the oil pump.
NOTE: If the vehicle is not equipped with an
oil pressure gauge re move the oil sender unit
and connect a pressure gauge into the oil
gallery. Check the oil pressure with the
engine cold and hot. If the oil pump or relief
valve are faulty. low pressure will be indi-
cated with the engine both hot and cold.
However, if the bearings are at fault a fairly
high oil pressure will be indicated when the
engine is cold, but a marked drop in pressure
will occur when the engine is hot.

ENGINE WILL NOT ROTATE
(1) Starter motor drive jammed: Remove the
starter motor. Check and renew the damaged drive
and/or flywheel ring gear.
(2) Engine overheated an d seized: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Check and renew any damaged
components. See the following note.
(3) Water in the cylinder due to a blown head
gasket or cracked cylinder block or head: Remove the
cylinder head. If the gasket is blown, check for
cylinder block and head distortion and reface if
necessary. Renew the cylinder head and/or cylinder
block if cracked.
(4) Broken crankshaft, connecting rod. piston
etc. due to overheating, fatigue etc: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Examine and renew any com-
ponents as necessary. (5) Valve head broken off due to overheating,
fatigue etc: Remove the cylinder head and check the
head, piston and cylinder bore for damage. Repair or
renew as necessary.
NOTE: Invariably when an engine seizes
because of overheating due to lack of oil
and/or water, damage is done to the bear-
ings, pistons etc. Although there may be
instances where an engine will start and run
after it has cooled down and the oil and
water have been replenished, it will usually
be found that oil consumption increases, oil
pressure decreases and the engine will be
noisier, depending on the degree of damage.

When a cylinder head gasket blows allow-
ing water into the cylinders, or compression
loss between the cylinders, it is essential to
check the gasket faces on the cylinder block
and head for distortion. Sufficient water can
enter a cylinder because of a blown head
gasket, cracked cylinder or head to prevent
an engine from rotating.

This is normally preceded by difficult
starting, misfiring, excessive steam from the
exhaust and loss of water from the radiator.

Frequent jamming of the starter motor
drive with the flywheel ring gear can be due
to a bent starter armature shaft or damaged
teeth on the drive and/or ring gear. With the
starter motor removed, the flywheel ring
gear teeth can be examined through the
starter motor mounting aperture. Renewal
of the ring gear requires removal of the
transaxle, clutch and flywheel on manual
transaxle models and the removal of the
transaxle and drive plate on automatic
transaxle models. To check for a bent arma-
ture shaft, rotate the shaft by hand while
holding the end in close proximity to a fixed
object.

2. DESCRIPTION
The 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines are basically identi-
cal in design.

Both engines share the same stroke. The 1.8 liter
engine has a larger bore thus giving it increased
capacity.

The engine is a four cylinder, inline, overhead
camshaft design transversely mounted in the front of
the vehicle.

The camshaft runs in five integral support bear-
ings in the camshaft housing which in turn is mounted
directly on to the cylinder head and retained by the
cylinder head bolts.

Camshaft end float is controlled by a retaining
plate engaged in a groove machined in the rear
camshaft journal. The camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft timing gear vi a a reinforced rubber belt.

The aluminum cross flow cylinder head houses
the tappets, rocker arms a nd valve assemblies. An oil
pressure relief valve is installed to the cylinder head to
maintain oil pressure to the hydraulic tappets at a
predetermined setting.

The exhaust valve springs are equipped with
rotators mounted below the valve springs which rotate
the exhaust valve assemblies. The rocker arms pivot
on hydraulic tappet assemblies and locate in notched
lash pads mounted on the valve stems. The camshaft
lobes bear directly onto the rocker arms and due to
the characteristics of the hydraulic tappet assemblies,
no provision is made for tappet clearance adjustment.

44 Engine

Rear three quarter view of the 1.8 liter engine and automatic transaxle assembly.
mountings. Lower the assembly onto the mountings
and tighten the mounting nuts and bolts.

(4) Install a new exhaust flange gasket.
(5) Fill the engine and transaxle with the correct
quantity and grade of lubricant. (6) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (7) On models with power steering, fill the power
steering reservoir with the recommended fluid.
(8) Start and run the engine until it reaches the
normal operating temperatur e and check for fuel, oil
and coolant leaks.
4. MANIFOLDS
INLET MANIFOLD - 1.6 Liter Models

To Remove and Install
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to

depressurise the system before removing the
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.

(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Remove the wingnuts retaining the air
cleaner to the throttle body, lift the air cleaner
upwards slightly and disconnect the vacuum hoses. (3) Drain the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (4) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
engine coolant hoses from the rear of the manifold.
(5) Disconnect the small branch of the engine
ventilation hose from the rear of the inlet manifold. (6) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the kickdown cable from the throttle lever by releasing
the wire spring clip and re moving the cable end socket
from the ball.
(7) Turn the throttle lever to the full throttle
position. Using the slack in the throttle cable, release
the throttle cable end thr ough the slot provided.

Engine 45


Installed view of the inlet manifold. 1.6 liter models. Air
cleaner removed.
(8) Remove the bolts retaining the throttle cable
bracket to the inlet manifold and place the bracket
with cable(s) attached to one side.
(9) Suitably mark the supply and return fuel
hoses and disconnect them from the throttle body.
(10) Suitably mark and disconnect the air pre-
heat, map sensor, charcoal canister and brake booster
vacuum hoses from the throttle body. (11) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
throttle body. (12) Remove the inlet manifold nuts and with-
draw the inlet manifold assembly. Discard the gasket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that all the carbon and old gasket
material is cleaned from the manifold and cylinder
head faces. (2) Check the face of the manifold for distortion
using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. (3) Use a new gasket and ensure that the mani-
fold retaining nuts are tightened to the specified
torque in a spiral pattern from the centre outwards. (4) Connect the vacuum hoses, the throttle cable
and where applicable, the kickdown cable. Adjust the
throttle cable as outlined in the Fuel and Engine
Management section and the kickdown cable as
described in the Automatic Transaxle section. (5) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (6) Start the engine and check for air, fuel and
water leaks.
INLET MANIFOLD - 1.8 Liter Models
To Remove and Install
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurise the system before removing any
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel

and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.

(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the
air inlet duct from the throttle body. (3) Suitably mark and disconnect the vacuum
hoses from the throttle body. (4) On automatic transaxle models disconnect
the kickdown cable from the throttle lever by releasing
the wire spring clip and re moving the cable and socket
from the ball. (5) Turn the throttle lever to the full throttle
position. Using the slack in the throttle cable, release
the throttle cable end thr ough the slot provided.
(6) Remove the bolts retaining the throttle cable
bracket to the inlet manifold and place the bracket
with cable(s) attached to one side. (7) Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
idle air control (IAC) valve and the throttle position
sensor (TPS).
(8) Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
fuel injectors and manifold air temperature (MAT)
sensor.
NOTE: A small screwdriver or similar tool
can be used to release the wire spring clips
on the injector connectors.

(9) Suitably mark and disconnect the fuel supply
and return lines from the fuel rail. (10) Remove the inlet manifold nuts and with-
draw the inlet manifold assembly. Discard the gasket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:


View of the inlet manifold removed from the engine.

46 Engine
(1) Ensure that all carbon and old gasket mate-
rial is cleaned from the manifold and cylinder head
faces. (2) Check the face of the manifold for distortion
using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. (3) Use a new gasket and ensure that the mani-
fold retaining nuts are tightened to the specified
torque in a spiral pattern from the centre outwards. (4) Adjust the throttle cabl e as described in the
Fuel and Engine Management section and the kick-
down cable as described in the Automatic Transaxle
section.
(5) Start the engine and check for air, fuel and
water leaks.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD

To Remove and Install
(1) Bring the engine to operating temperature
and remove the oxygen sensor.
(2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(3) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
nuts, disconnect the vacuum hose and withdraw the
air cleaner from the vehicle. (4) Remove the front exhaust pipe flange mount-
ing nuts and separate the exhaust pipe from the
manifold. (5) Remove the heat shield retaining bolts and
withdraw the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. (6) Remove the exhaust manifold to cylinder
head retaining nuts and remove the manifold from the
engine. Discard the manifold gasket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that all carbon is cleaned from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. (2) Check the face of the manifold for distortion
using a straight edge and feeler gauges. (3) Use new gaskets on assembly.
(4) Tighten the exhaust manifold retaining nuts
to the specified torque in the sequence shown in the
illustration. (5) Install the oxygen sensor. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section. (6) Coat the threads of the front exhaust pipe to
manifold retaining nuts with an anti-seize solution
and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
5. CAMSHAFT DRIVE BELT
Special Equipment Required:
To Adjust — Drive belt adjusting tool
TO REMOVE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Raise the front of the vehicle, support it on
chassis stands and remove the right hand front wheel.
Refer to the Wheels and Tires section. (3) Remove the fasteners securing the engine
splash guard to the right hand front inner mudguard
and remove the splash guard. (4) Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and if
equipped, the power steering and air conditioning
adjusting bolts. Remove the drive belt(s).


View of the exhaust manifold and components showing
the correct tightening sequence.

View of the 1.8 liter engine with the upper timing belt
cover removed showing the camshaft gear timing
marks. Inset shows the crankshaft pulley timing
marks.