1985 FORD GRANADA oil pressure

Other items
34Disconnect the throttle cable from the
operating lever and bracket.
35Disconnect the right-hand exhaust
downpipe from the manifold then remove the
starter motor, the oil filter, and disconnect the
left-hand exhaust downpipe, in that order.
Refer to Part A, Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 8
of this Chapter.
Cylinder head bolts on the V6 engine may
be conventional (hexagon-headed) or Torx
type. The appropriate Torx key will be needed
to deal with the latter.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillaries can be
removed. The actual items removed, and the
sequence of removal, will depend on the work
to be done.
Distributor and bracket
Spark plugs
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifolds
Clutch
Alternator and bracket
Oil pressure switch(see illustration) Temperature gauge sender
Engine bearer arms
Dipstick
If an oil cooler is fitted between the oil filter
and the block, remove it by disconnecting the
coolant hoses and unscrewing the central
sleeve. The cooler and seal can now be
removed. If the threaded bush is removed
from the block (it may come out with the
sleeve) it must be renewed.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the inlet manifold and associated
components.
3Unbolt the power steering pump, remove
the drivebelts and move the pump aside.
Support it by wiring it to adjacent
components.
4Remove the alternator and its bracket.
5Remove the three bolts which secure each
rocker shaft. Remove the shafts and
pushrods, keeping them in order so that they
can be refitted in the same locations.
6Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.
7Remove the spark plugs.8Slacken the cylinder head bolts half a turn at
a time, following the reverse sequence to that
used when tightening (see illustration 38.5).
Remove the bolts.
9Remove the cylinder heads. If they are
stuck, try to rock them free, or tap them with a
soft-faced hammer. Do nothit them directly
with a metal hammer, and do notlever in
between the joint faces.
10Recover the head gaskets.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
11Disconnect the battery and drain the
cooling system.
12Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the thermostat housing.
13Disconnect the air hoses from the throttle
valve housing (see illustration).
14Detach the two wiring plugs from the
airflow sensors (see illustrations).
15Pull the breather hose from the oil filler cap
(see illustration).
16Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
together with the airflow sensors and air hoses.
17Disconnect the hoses from the coolant
expansion tank.
18Disconnect the wiring from the following
components:
a)Alternator (right-hand cylinder head
removal only).
b)Coolant temperature sensors(see
illustration).
c)Idle speed control valve (see illustration).
d)Throttle valve potentiometer.
e)The fuel-injector wiring loom.8Cylinder heads - removal
7Ancillary components - removal
6Engine dismantling - general
2C•8V6 engines
7.1 The oil pressure switch is on the left-
hand side of the block
8.14b Throttle position sensor wiring plug
Vacuum nozzles arrowed
8.14a Front airflow sensor wiring plug
8.15 Oil filler breather hose (arrowed)8.18a Coolant temperature sensor location
8.13 Disconnecting the air hoses from the
throttle valve housing
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19Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
ignition distributor and the fuel temperature
sensor (see illustrations).
20Release the pressure in the fuel distributor
pipe by depressing the pin in the vent valve.
Cover the valve with a rag during this
operation to prevent fuel being sprayed out
(see illustration).
21Disconnect the fuel lines (see illustration).
22Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
following components:
a)Fuel pressure regulator.
b)Throttle valve assembly.
c)T-piece connector (see illustration).
23Disconnect the rocker cover breather hose
(see illustration).
24Unbolt the plenum chamber and place it to
one side with the throttle cable attached.25Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the ignition coil noting their correct
fitted locations. Undo the two retaining screws
then remove the distributor cap and HT leads
as an assembly.
26Using a 19 mm socket on the crankshaft
damper centre bolt, set No 1 piston to its firing
point (12°BTDC) and remove the distributor.
27If the right-hand cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the drivebelts, unbolt the
alternator and power steering pump and tie
them to one side of the engine compartment.
28Unbolt and remove the rocker cover(s).
29Unbolt and remove the rocker shaft(s) (see
illustration).
30Withdraw the pushrods and keep them in
their originally fitted sequence.
31Disconnect the inlet manifold to timingcover coolant hose from the manifold.
32Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with fuel rail and injectors. Discard
the gasket.
33Disconnect the exhaust downpipe(s) from
the manifold(s).
34Disconnect the earth straps from the rear
of the left-hand cylinder head and release the
cable retaining clamp.
35Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
36Unscrew the cylinder head bolts using the
reverse of the tightening sequence (see
illustration 38.5). Obtain new bolts for refitting.
Remove the cylinder head(s) and discard the
gasket(s).
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 16
of this Chapter but note that there are 24 bolts
retaining the sump, not 23.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the engine oil.
3Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.
10Timing cover and drive -
removal
9Sump - removal
V6 engines 2C•9
2C
8.18b Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve wiring plug8.19a Disconnecting the distributor wiring
plug8.19b Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug
8.22 Vacuum hose T-piece connector
8.20 Fuel rail vent (depressurising) valve
and cap8.21 Fuel feed (A) and return (B) hoses
8.23 Rocker cover breather hose (arrowed)8.29 Removing rocker shaft and pedestal
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9Inspect the valve springs, if possible
comparing their free length with new springs.
Renew the springs anyway if they have been in
use for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more.
10Use a straight-edge and feeler blades to
check that the cylinder head mating faces are
not distorted. If they are, have the heads
resurfaced by an engineering works.
11Commence reassembly by oiling a valve
stem and inserting the valve into its guide.
Cover the collet grooves with adhesive tape
and press the new valve stem oil seal down
the stem, using a suitable tube to press the
seals home. Note that the inlet valve seals are
rubber and the exhaust seals nylon. On the 2.8
litre engine, oversize exhaust valve seals must
be used when valves with oversize stems are
fitted. Remove the adhesive tape.
12Fit the valve spring and spring retainer.
Compress the spring and fit the collets, using
a dab of grease to hold them in position.
Carefully release the compressor.
13Tap the valve stem smartly with a mallet to
seat the components.
14Repeat the process on the remaining valves.
Refer to Part A, Section 28 of this Chapter.
The main bearing caps should be fitted, and
their bolts tightened to the specified torque,
when making bore measurements.
Refer to Part A, Section 29 of this Chapter.
1Refer to Part A, Section 27 of this Chapter for
the examination procedure. Note that regrinding
of this crankshaft is not permitted, so if significant
journal wear is present, a new crankshaft (and
new bearing shells) must be fitted.
2As with the SOHC engine, oversize main
bearing parent bores may be encountered.
These are marked with paint stripes on the
bearing caps, corresponding paint marks on
the bearing shells and identification codes on
the backs of the bearing shells.
3On the 2.4 litre engine, separate
thrustwashers are used to control crankshaft
endfloat. On the 2.9 litre engine, No 3 main
bearing shells have integral thrust flanges.
2.8 litre engine
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump and then
decide whether renewal or repair is the best
course of action (see illustration).2Remove the pick-up pipe and strainer.
3Note the position of the oil pump cover
relative to the body, then remove the bolts and
spring washers. Lift off the cover.
4Mark the rotor faces so that they can be
refitted the same way round, then remove
them from the body.
5Remove the pressure relief valve plug by
piercing it with a punch and levering it out.
Withdraw the spring and plunger.
6Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or paraffin
and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag. The
necessary clearances may now be checked
using a machined straight-edge (a good steel
rule) and a set of feeler blades. The critical
clearances are between the lobes of the centre
rotor and convex faces of the outer rotor;
between the rotor and pump body; and between
both rotors and the end cover plate (endfloat).
The clearances are given in the Specifications.
7Endfloat may be measured by refitting the
rotors, placing the straight-edge across the
bottom of the pump and measuring the clearance
between the two rotors and the straight-edge.
8New rotors are only available as a pair. If the
rotor-to-body clearance is excessive, a
complete new pump should be fitted.
9Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring.
10Fit a new relief valve plug, flat side
outwards and seat it with a drift, until it is flush
with the pick-up pipe mating face.
11Lubricate the rotors and fit them,
observing the marks made when dismantling if
applicable.
12Fit the cover and secure it with the bolts
and spring washers. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
13Fit the pick-up pipe and strainer, using a
new gasket.
14Temporarily insert the driveshaft into the
pump and make sure that the rotors turn freely.
15A new or overhauled pump must be
primed before fitting.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
16Oil pump overhaul is essentially as
described for the 2.8 litre engine, noting the
differences in design of the components (see
illustrations).
27Oil pump - dismantling,
examination and reassembly
26Crankshaft and bearings -
examination
25Pistons and connecting rods
- examination and renovation
24Cylinder bores - examination
and renovation
2C•14V6 engines
27.16a Removing the pick-up from the oil
pump
27.1 Exploded view of the oil pump
1 Body
2 Bolt
3 Bolts
4 Lockwasher
5 Driveshaft
6 Toothed washer
7 Rotor set
8 Pressure relief valve plunger
9 Pressure relief valve spring
10 Pressure relief valve plug
11 Cover
12 Pick-up pipe and strainer
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27The inlet manifold bolts should be
retightened to the specified torque in the correct
sequence. This will mean disconnecting the air
hoses from the throttle valve housing, the
vacuum hose from the left-hand rocker cover,
and the wiring connector from the idle speed
control valve and throttle valve potentiometer.
Remove the plenum chamber, place it to one
side, then release the fuel rail bolts but do not
disconnect the fuel pipes. It may also be
necessary to remove the distributor again to
gain access to one of the bolts.
See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Refer to Section 7 and refit the items listed.
2If the oil cooler and its threaded bush were
removed, refit them as follows (see
illustration).
3Screw the new bush into the cylinder block.
Apply Omnifit Activator “Rapid” (to Ford
specification SSM-99B-9000-AA) to the
exposed threads of the bush and to the inside
of the threaded sleeve.
4Apply one drop of Omnifit Sealant “300
Rapid” (to Ford specification SSM-4G-9003-
AA) to the leading threads of the bush.Do not
use more than one drop, otherwise sealant
may get into the lubrication circuit.
5Fit the cooler, using a new gasket, and
secure with the threaded bush. Make sure that
the coolant pipes are positioned at the correct
angle (see illustration),then tighten the
threaded sleeve to the specified torque.
6Fit a new oil filter element, oiling its sealing
ring prior to installation. Tighten the filter
approximately three-quarters of a turn beyond
the point where the seal contacts the cooler
face. Do not use any tool to tighten the filter.
Refer to Part A, Section 49, paragraphs 1 to
9 of this Chapter. Before starting the engine,
refer to the following Section.1Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter.
2When conventional (hexagon-headed)
cylinder head bolts are fitted, they must be re-
tightened after the engine has warmed up.
Proceed as follows.
3Stop the engine and remove the rocker covers.
4Working in the sequence used for
tightening, slacken one cylinder head bolt a
quarter turn, then re-tighten it to the Stage 4
specified torque. Repeat in sequence for all
the cylinder head bolts.
5Tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
6Check the valve clearances.
7Refit the rocker covers and other disturbed
components.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
43Compression test -
description and interpretation
42Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
41Engine - refitting
40Ancillary components - refitting
39Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
V6 engines 2C•21
2C
40.2 Oil cooler components
A Threaded bush
B Seal
C CoolerD Sleeve
E Oil filter
40.5 Oil cooler installation angle
A Rear face of cylinder block
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Cooling system
The cooling system is of pressurised type
and includes a front mounted crossflow
radiator, belt-driven water pump, temperature-
sensitive thermo-viscous fan (on DOHC
models, an electrically-operated cooling fan is
fitted, operated by a switch in the thermostat
housing), wax type thermostat, and an
expansion and degas tank.
The radiator matrix is of copper and brass
construction and the end tanks are of plastic.
On automatic transmission models the right-
hand side end tank incorporates the
transmission oil cooler.
The thermostat is located behind the water
outlet elbow at the front of the cylinder head
on OHCmodels, and on the front of the water
pump on V6 models. Its purpose is to ensure
rapid engine warm-up by restricting the flow of
coolant in the engine when cold, and also to
assist in regulating the normal operating
temperature of the engine.
The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
system as the coolant temperature rises,
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in
the coolant, in particular in the thermostat
housing and the radiator, is returned to the
tank and released in the air space thus
maintaining the efficiency of the coolant.
On models fitted with the auxiliary warning
system, the expansion tank contains a level
sensor which operates a warning light if the
coolant level falls significantly.
When the engine is started from cold, the
water pump circulates coolant around the
cylinder block, cylinder head(s) and inlet
manifold. The warm coolant passes through
the automatic choke housing (when
applicable) and through the heater matrix
before returning to the engine. As the coolant
expands, the level in the expansion tank rises.
Circulation of coolant through the radiator is
prevented while the thermostat is shut. When
the coolant reaches the predeterminedtemperature the thermostat opens and hot
water passes through the top hose to the top
of the radiator. As the water circulates down
through the radiator, it is cooled by the
passage of air past the radiator when the car is
in forward motion, supplemented by the action
of the thermo-viscous fan when necessary.
Having reached the bottom of the radiator, the
water is now cool and the cycle is repeated.
Circulation of water continues through the
expansion tank, inlet manifold and heater at all
times; the heater temperature control being by
an air flap.
The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
temperature of air behind the radiator. When
the air temperature reaches a predetermined
level, a bi-metallic coil commences to open a
valve within the unit and silicon fluid is fed
through a system of vanes. Half of the vanes
are driven directly by the water pump and the
remaining half are connected to the fan blades.
The vanes are arranged so that drive is
transmitted to the fan blades in relation to the
drag or viscosity of the fluid, and this in turn
depends on ambient temperature and engine
speed. The fan is therefore only operated when
required, and compared with direct drive type
fan represents a considerable improvement in
fuel economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.
Air conditioning
Air conditioning is fitted as standard on
Scorpio models and is optionally available on
some other models. In conjunction with the
heater, the system enables any reasonable air
temperature to be achieved inside the car, it
also reduces the humidity of the incoming air,
aiding demisting even when cooling is not
required.
The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
system functions in a similar way to a
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt-
driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
passes through a condenser where it loses
heat and enters its liquid phase. After
dehydration the refrigerant returns to the
evaporator where it absorbs heat from air
passing over the evaporator fins. The
refrigerant becomes a gas again and the cycle
is repeated.Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.
Precautions
Antifreeze mixture
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes
off skin and clothing with plenty of water.
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid
discolouration.
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
every two years to preserve its anti-corrosive
properties. In climates where antifreeze
protection is unnecessary, a corrosion
inhibitor may be used instead - consult a Ford
dealer. Never run the engine for long periods
with plain water as coolant. Only use the
specified antifreeze, as inferior brands may not
contain the necessary corrosion inhibitors, or
may break down at high temperatures.
Antifreeze containing methanol is particularly
to be avoided, as the methanol evaporates.
The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
container.
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.
In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and
recharging the system, any work which
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line
must be left to a specialist.
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed
to temperatures above 110°C (230°F) - eg
during welding or paint drying operations and
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
damage may result.
1General information and
precautions
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Radiator lower mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 126 to 9
Thermostat housing bolts:
SOHC, DOHC and 2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2013 to 15
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump bolts:
SOHC, M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 16
SOHC, M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4226 to 31
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2816 to 21
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9752 to 72
Fan-to-viscous clutch bolts:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2313 to 17
Fan shroud bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Cylinder block drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
procarmanuals.com

The exhaust system fitted in production is
made of aluminised steel, with stainless steel
used in the endplates and baffles of the rear
silencer. Individual sections of the system are
easily renewed in service.
Emission control for the UK market is
achieved largely by the inherent efficiency of
the fuel, ignition and engine management
systems. A welcome spin-off from such
efficiency is remarkably good fuel economy for
a vehicle of such size and weight.
Precautions
Fuel
Many of the procedures in this Chapter
require the removal of fuel lines and
connections which may result in some fuel
spillage. Residual pressure in fuel-injection
systems will remain in the fuel lines long after
the vehicle was last used, therefore extra care
must be taken when disconnecting a fuel line
hose. Loosen any fuel hose slowly to avoid a
sudden release of pressure which may cause
fuel spray. As an added precaution place a rag
over each union as it is disconnected to catch
any fuel which is forcibly expelled. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel system
refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!”
at the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous
and volatile liquid and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed
Tamperproof adjustment screws
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
(and elsewhere) are protected by tamperproof
caps, plugs or seals. The purpose of such
tamperproofing is to discourage, and to deter,
adjustment by unqualified operators.
In some EU countries (though not yet in the
UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with
missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before
disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself
that you will not be breaking local or national
anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a
new seal when adjustment is complete when
this is required by law.
Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle
which is still under warranty.
Catalytic converter
The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for the full service life.
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule - particularly,
ensure that the air cleaner filter element,
the fuel filter and the spark plugs are
renewed at the correct interval - if the inletair/fuel mixture is allowed to become too
rich due to neglect, the unburned surplus
will enter and burn in the catalytic
converter, overheating the element and
eventually destroying the converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in
overheating, as noted above.
d)DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when
the engine does start - see b) above.
e)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburnedfuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of igniting on the element and damaging
the converter.
f)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g)DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce the efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
which brush against it - DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth,
over long grass or piles of dead leaves.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE, do not strike it with tools during
servicing work, take great care when
working on the exhaust system, ensure
that the converter is well clear of any jacks
or other lifting gear used to raise the car
and do not drive the car over rough
ground, road humps, etc, in such a way as
to “ground” the exhaust system.
j)In some cases, particularly when the car is
new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic converter-
equipped cars and seems to be due to the
small amount of sulphur found in some
petrols reacting with hydrogen in the
exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H
2S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.
k)The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven car, should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles
- from this point on, careful checks should
be made at all specified service intervals
of the CO level to ensure that the
converter is still operating efficiently - if
the converter is no longer effective it must
be renewed.
See Chapter 1, Section 38.
1On carburettor models only, the air cleaner
can take in both hot and cold air. Hot air is
obtained from a shroud bolted to the exhaust
manifold.
2A flap valve in the air cleaner spout
determines the mix of hot and cold air. The
valve is operated by a vacuum diaphragm.
Vacuum is obtained from the inlet manifold
and is applied via a heat-sensing valve, which
cuts off the vacuum as the temperature of the
incoming air rises. Thus the air cleaner takes in
only hot air on starting from cold, changing
progressively to cold air as the engine warms
up (see illustrations).
3If the system fails, either the engine will take
a long time to warm up (flap stuck in “cold”
position), or it may run roughly and not
develop full power when warm (flap stuck in
“hot” position). Check it as follows.
3Air cleaner temperature control
- description and testing
2Air cleaner and element -
removal and refitting
4•4Fuel and exhaust systems
3.2b Air cleaner heat sensor3.2a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit
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4With the engine cold, disconnect the cold
air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.
Mechanical
1Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must beejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see
illustrations).
7Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin
and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.
Electrical
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
10All fuel-injection models, and carburettor
models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.11If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under
pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.
19Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and
slide the pump out of the bracket.
21Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid-
1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.
23Run the engine and check for leaks.
DOHC engine
24On these models the fuel pump is
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit(see
illustration).To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.
4Fuel pump - testing, removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump4.6b Fuel pump pushrod
4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screenA Fuel pumpB Fuel level sender unit
4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit
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9Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve.
11Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then remove the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
12Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the air inlet tube (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
13Clean the valve and air inlet tube mating
faces before refitting, taking care not to allow
dirt to enter the air inlet tube.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new gasket.15On completion, start the engine and check
that the idle speed is stable - if not, check for
air leaks around the valve. Switch on all
available electrical loads and check that the
idle speed is maintained - if not, suspect a
faulty valve.
OHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Release the locking clip and disconnect the
multi-plug from the meter (see illustration).
3Release the hose clip and disconnect the air
trunking from the meter.
4Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
with the meter. Do not drop or jar it.
5To separate the meter from the cover,
remove the four retaining bolts.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the seal in the air cleaner cover
is correctly located and align the hose clip
(seeillustration).
7Check the exhaust CO level on completion.
V6 engines
8Proceed as described above, noting that
there are two meters instead of one.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws.
3Remove the trunking which connects the
airflow meter(s) to the inlet manifold.
4On OHCmodels, release the distributor cap
and place it clear of the fuel rail. It will be
necessary to disconnect the cap-to-coil HT
lead at the coil.
5Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the throttle position
sensor and the coolant temperature sensor.
6On V6 models, unclip the HT leads from the
fuel pressure regulator bracket.
7Disconnect the vacuum and fuel pipes from
the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel feed
union from the fuel rail (see illustration). Be
prepared for fuel spillage.
8On V6 models, disconnect the throttle
cable(s). Remove the plenum chamber and
throttle body.
9Disconnect the injector wiring harness.
10Unbolt the fuel rail and remove it with the
injectors (see illustrations). It will be
necessary to pull on the rail in order to free the
injectors from the manifold.
11Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
injectors (see illustration).
36Fuel-injectors - removal and
refitting
35Vane airflow meter(s) -
removal and refitting
4•16Fuel and exhaust systems
34.12 Withdrawing the idle speed control
valve
36.7 Fuel feed union (arrowed) on fuel rail
36.10a Fuel rail and injectors36.10b Fuel rail retaining bolts (arrowed) on
V6 inlet manifold36.11 Disconnecting a fuel injector multi-
plug
35.2 Disconnecting the airflow meter multi-
plug. Meter is inverted to show locking clip
(arrowed)35.6 Correct alignment of air inlet trunking
and hose clip
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