1985 FORD GRANADA roof

1Remove the overhead console.
2Remove the three bolts which secure the
motor (see illustration).Lower the motor,
disconnect the multi-plug and remove it.
Recover the relay.
3When refitting, make sure that the motor
drivegear meshes with the roof operating
mechanism. Refit the relay, reconnect the
multi-plug and secure the motor with the three
bolts.
4Check the operation of the motor, then refit
the overhead console.1All vehicles are fitted with an electrical
speedometer sender unit instead of a
mechanical cable. The sender unit is located on
the left-hand side of the transmission extension.
2Raise and securely support the front of the
vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the
speedometer sender unit.
3Remove the securing bolt, pull the sender
unit out of the transmission and disconnect
the multi-plug (see illustration). Be prepared
for some spillage of gearbox oil or ATF
(automatic transmission fluid).
4If a new sender unit is being fitted, transfer
the driven gear and circlip from the old unit.
On automatic transmission models, also
transfer the O-ring.
5If the old sender unit had two connecting
wires and the new unit has three, the brown
wire must be cut at the multi-plug and an earth
tag fitted (see illustration).Consult a Ford
dealer if in doubt.
6Fit the new sender unit, using a new bolt
(M6 x 25 mm for manual gearbox, M6 x 35 mm
for automatic transmission). Besides the
sender unit, the bolt also secures the new
earth tag (when applicable), the radio earth
strap and the multi-plug retaining bracket.
7Connect the multi-plug and fit it to the
bracket.8If any spillage of gearbox oil or transmission
fluid occurred, top-up the level before the
vehicle is next run.
All models
1To remove a windscreen wiper arm, first
open the bonnet.
2Lift up the plastic cap and undo the wiper
arm retaining nut.
3Pull the arm off the drive spindle (see
illustrations).
4Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
the masking tape to indicate the correct fitted
position of the arm and blade.
5To remove a blade alone, hinge the arm and
blade away from the screen. Press the tab on
the spring clip in the middle of the blade and
unhook the blade from the arm (see
illustration).
6Refit the blade by sliding it onto the hook on
the arm.
22Wiper arms and blades -
removal and refitting
21Speedometer sender unit -
removal and refitting20Sliding roof motor - removal
and refitting
13•16Body electrical system
20.2 Sliding roof motor retaining bolts
(arrowed)
22.3b Pull the arm off the spindle
22.3a Lift the cap to expose the nut
22.5 Removing a wiper blade22.7 Disconnecting the rear wiper arm
washer hose
21.3 Speedometer sender unit securing
bolt (arrowed)
A Automatic transmission
B Manual gearbox21.5 Latest type speedometer sender unit
A Brown wire
B Brown/yellow wire
C Brown/black wire
D Earth tag (see text)E Sleeve
F Cut brown wire
here (see text)
Mark the position of the blade
on the windscreen or rear
window (as applicable) with a
piece of masking tape.
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High frequency units
14Remove the instrument panel surround
and the facia top.
15Remove the two screws which secure the
speaker bracket. Disconnect the wiring and
withdraw the speaker and bracket together.
The screws which secure the speaker to the
bracket can then be removed (see
illustration).
16Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Hatchback
1The heated rear window element is used as
the radio aerial. To produce a good signal at
the radio a pre-amplifier, mounted in the
tailgate, is used.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the two screws which secure the
pre-amplifier (see illustration). Disconnect the
wiring from the pre-amplifier and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
5On these models the pre-amplifier unit is
located under the rear parcel shelf and can be
accessed from within the boot.
6To remove the unit, from within the boot,
slacken and remove the two retaining screwsthen lower the pre-amplifier out of position
and disconnect the wiring connectors (see
illustration).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Estate
8On Estate models the pre-amplifier unit is
situated in the roof, just in front of the tailgate.
9To remove the pre-amplifier, open up the
tailgate then carefully release the headlining
from all the relevant trim panels and peel it
back until access to the unit can be gained.
10Undo the two retaining screws then lower
the unit out from the roof and disconnect the
wiring connectors.
11Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the headlining is
neatly fitted and correctly located behind all
the relevant trim panels.
1This Section deals with the facia-mounted
control. On models with a graphic equaliser, the
joystick fader is incorporated in the equaliser.
2Remove the instrument cluster.
3Prise out the fader surround and detach the
bulbholder (see illustration).
4Release the fader control by turning its
retaining clip anticlockwise. Withdraw it from
the facia and disconnect its multi-plug.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Pull the heater control knob off its lever.
Remove the two retaining screws from the top
corners of the rear console faceplate.
2Pull off the balance and volume control
knobs. Withdraw the console and disconnect
the wiring from it.
3The console may be removed from the face
plate if wished by undoing the three retaining
screws.
4To renew the console bulbs, extract the
bulbholders by grasping with pliers and
turning them anti-clockwise.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1The rear headphone relay is located behind
the facia, next to the AWS control assembly
and the speed control module (when fitted). Its
function is to mute the loudspeakers when the
headphones are plugged into the rear
entertainment console.
2To remove the relay, first remove the AWS
control assembly and (if applicable) the speed
control unit.
3Disconnect the relay multi-plug, undo its
securing screw and nut and remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
The alarm system is available as an optional
extra. On vehicles so equipped, the alarm is
automatically set by locking the driver’s or
front passenger’s door with the key. After a
brief delay (approximately 20 seconds), the
alarm will be set off if the doors, bonnet or
tailgate are opened.
The only way to disarm the alarm system is
by unlocking one of the front doors with the
key. Even if the key is used to open the
tailgate, if the alarm is set it will go off.
36Anti-theft alarm system
components - removal and
refitting
35Rear headphone relay -
removal and refitting
34Rear entertainment console -
removal and refitting
33Joystick fader control -
removal and refitting
32Radio aerial pre-amplifier
(original equipment) - removal
and refitting
13•22Body electrical system
31.8 Removing a rear speaker retaining
bolt
32.6 Radio aerial pre-amplifier retaining
screws (arrowed)33.3 Removing the joystick fader
31.15 High frequency loudspeaker located
under the facia top. One bracket securing
screw (arrowed) is visible32.3 Radio aerial pre-amplifier mounted in
the tailgate
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WD•0
Explanatory notes for wiring diagrams
Each wiring diagram covers a particular system of the vehicle; as indicated in each caption. When a number is shown on a diagram inside a box
with an arrow symbol, this indicates that the circuit concerned starts, or is continued, in the diagram having that number.
Space limitations mean that not all diagrams have been included. Therefore the diagram numbers are not consecutive, neither is it always
possible to follow a particular circuit to completion. Some diagrams are out of sequence; this is to ensure that the halves of the larger diagrams
appear on opposite pages.
The prefix C indicates a connector or multi-plug, S a soldered joint and G an earthing point (ground). The numbers appearing at the break in
each wire indicate the circuit number and wire colour.
Colour code
BLBlue
BRBrown
GEYellow
GRGrey
GNGreen
RSPink
RT Red
SWBlack
VIViolet
WSWhiteSubjectDiagram number
ABS21
Auxiliary warning system23
Central locking system14
Charge, start and run3
Charge, start and run3A
Engine management (1.8 litre)4
Engine management (2.0 litre carburettor)4A
Engine management (2.0 litre fuel-injection)5
Engine management (2.8 litre)5C
Exterior lighting7A
Heater blower11
Interior lighting10
Power 0perated windows15
Power distribution2
Power-operated sliding roof16
Radio/cassette player and associated circuits29
Signalling and warning systems9
Wipers and washers12
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Wiring diagrams WD•1
WD
Diagram 16. Power-operated sliding roof
procarmanuals.com

REF•3
The following list contains only those tools and
instruments freely available to the public, and not
those special tools produced by the vehicle
manufacturer specifically for its dealer network.
You will find occasional references to these
manufacturer’s special tools in the text of this
manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing
the job without the vehicle manufacturer’s special
tool is given. However, sometimes there is no
alternative to using them. Where this is the case
and the relevant tool cannot be bought or
borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a
franchised garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers (see
illustrations)
MDial gauge (see illustration)
MStroboscopic timing light (see illustration)
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge (see
illustration)
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
(see illustration)
MClutch plate alignment set (see
illustration)
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
(see illustration)
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
(see illustration)
MStud extractors (see illustration)
MTap and die set (see illustration)
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jackBuying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase
items which meet the relevant national safety
standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or
manager of the shop for advice before making
a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or
workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers
and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal
spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any
measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc,
must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is
the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, some
form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints and so on, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Lastly, always keep a supply of old
newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available,
and try to keep any working area as clean as
possible.
Bush and bearing removal/installation setStud extractor setTap and die set
Tools and Working Facilities
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REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
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Q
Quarter window moulding - 12•10
R
Radiator - 3•3, 12•9
Radio fader light - 13•8
Radio or radio/cassette player - 13•20, 13•21
Rear light cluster - 13•5, 13•6
Recline motor - 13•15
Regulator mechanism - 12•9
Relays - 13•13
Respraying - 12•3
Reversing light switch - 7B•3, 13•12, 13•13
Ride height control - 11•12, 11•13
Road test - 1•16
Rocker shaft - 2C•12
Rotor arm - 5•5
Routine maintenance and servicing- 1•1et
seq
Rust holes or gashes in bodywork - 12•2
S
Safety first! - 0•5
Scalding - 0•5
Scratches in bodywork - 12•2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF•4
Seals and hoses - 1•19
Seat air cushion - 12•17
Seat belts - 0•12, 1•10, 12•17, 12•18
Seats - 0•12, 12•17, 12•18, 13•10, 13•13,
13•15
Selector rod - 7B•4
Servo - 10•12, 10•13, 13•20
Shock absorbers - 0•12, 0•13, 11•12
Short-circuit - 13•4
Side mouldings - 12•10
Sidelight - 13•4
Sliding roof - 12•5, 13•12, 13•16
Spare parts - 0•8
Spark plugs - 1•12, 5•5
Speakers - 13•21, 13•22
Speed control system components - 13•19,
13•20
Speedometer sender unit - 13•16
Spoiler - 12•11
Springs - 0•13, 11•11
Starter inhibitor/reversing light switch -
7B•3, 13•13
Starter motor - 5•4, 5•5
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement - REF•6
Starter motor turns engine slowly - REF•6
Steering and suspension - 0•12, 0•13, 1•15,
1•16, 11•1et seq,REF•10
Steering column- 0•11, 11•5
Steering gear - 11•3
Steering intermediate shaft and flexible
coupling - 11•6Steering play - REF•10
Steering rack bellows - 11•4
Steering stiff - REF•10
Steering wheel - 0•11, 11•4, 11•5
Steering wheel and column -
Stop-light switch - 13•12
Strut - 11•9, 11•10
Stub axle carrier - 11•7
Sump - 2A•9, 2A•16, 2B•15, 2C•9, 2C•19
Switch illumination lights - 13•8
Switches - 13•9, 13•11, 13•12, 13•13,
13•18, 13•19
T
Tailgate - 12•4, 12•7, 13•12, 13•18
Tailgate wash/wipe inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Tailgate window mouldings - 12•10
Tappets - 2C•13
Temperature gauge gives false reading -
REF•11
Temperature gauge sender - 3•7
Thermostat - 3•3
Throttle body - 4•15
Throttle cable - 4•7
Throttle kicker - 4•13
Throttle pedal - 4•6
Throttle position sensor - 4•15
Timing belt - 2A•8, 2A•14, 2A•18
Timing chain - 2B•8, 2B•10, 2C•9, 2C•17
Tools and working facilities- REF•1et seq
Towing - 0•7
Track rod end - 11•6
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned
smell - REF•9
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy,
or has no drive in forward or reverse
gears - REF•9
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown)
with accelerator pedal fully depressed -
REF•9
Tyre wear - REF•10
Tyres - 0•14, 1•7
U
Ultrasonic sensor - 13•23
Underbody inspection - 1•15
Unleaded fuel - 4•23
V
Vacuum dump valve/switch - 13•19
Vacuum hoses - 2C•7
Vacuum line modification - 7B•4
Vacuum pull-down adjustment - 4•13
Vacuum pump - 13•20
Vacuum servo - 10•12, 10•13, 13•20
Valve block and pump assembly - 10•13
Valve clearances - 1•13, 2A•20, 2C•21Valve grinding - 2A•14
Vane airflow meter(s) - 4•16
Vanity mirror light - 13•7
Vapour separator - 4•7
Vehicle identification - 0•9, 0•12
Vehicle pulls to one side - REF•9, REF•10
Vehicle speed sensor - 5•12
Vibration damper (MT75type gearbox) - 8•4
Viscous-coupled fan - 3•5
W
Wandering or general instability - REF•10
Warning light bulbs - 13•18
Wash/wipe inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation - REF•11
Wash/wipe switch - 13•12
Washer fluid - 1•7, 13•19
Washer jets inoperative - REF•11
Washer pump fails to operate - REF•11
Washer pump runs for some time before
fluid is emitted from jets - REF•11
Water pump - 3•5
Water pump/alternator drivebelt - 3•7
Weatherstrip - 12•7
Weber 2V carburettor - 4•9, 4•10
Weber 2V TLD carburettor - 4•11, 4•12,
4•13
Wheel alignment - 11•7
Wheel bearings - 0•13, 11•8, 11•11
Wheel changing - 0•7
Wheel sensors - 10•12
Wheel stud - 11•11
Wheel wobble and vibration - REF•10
Wheels - 0•14, 1•10
Wheels locking under normal braking -
REF•10
Window frame mouldings - 12•10
Window glass - 12•8
Window glass fails to move - REF•11
Window glass slow to move - REF•11
Window glass will only move in one
direction - REF•11
Window operating motor - 13•15
Window operating switch - 13•12
Windscreen - 0•11, 12•9
Windscreen mouldings - 12•10
Windscreen, rear window and headlight
washer components - 13•17
Wiper arms and blades - 13•16
Wiper blades - 1•9
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass
effectively - REF•11
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too
small an area of the glass - REF•11
Wiper motor - 13•17
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very
slowly - REF•11
Wiring diagrams- WD•0 et seq
Working facilities - REF•3
IND•3Index
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A Perfect Day Out
Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of Motoring.
Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring Mum and
Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find an
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Somerset.
The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter)7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048
NOT TO SCALE
A303
EXETERA359 YEOVILSPARKFORD
HAYNES
PUBLISHING
A303 ANDOVER
OLD A303
A359
CASTLE CARY
TO M5 J 25
TAUNTON
MOTOR
MUSEUM
>John Haynes O.B.E.,
Founder and
Chairman of the
museum at the wheel
of a Haynes Light 12. Cosworth Formula 1
car next to a 1934
Riley Sports.
Derham Tourster.
Only eight of these
magnificent cars were
ever built – this is the
only example to be found
outside the United States
of America
Preserving Our Motoring Heritage
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