1983 FIAT UNO lock

can be drained out (photos). Brightwork
should be treated in the same way as
paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be
kept clear of the smeary film which often
appears, by the use of proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.
3 Maintenance-
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well asdetails on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
12•2 Bodywork
2.4B Sill drain with non-return valve2.4A Door drain hole
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
5 Major body damage-
repair
5
1Major repair to the body should be left to
your Fiat dealer or specialist body repairer.
2Special jigs and alignment gauges are
required without which steering and
suspension characteristics may be incorrect
after the repairs are completed.
6 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet.
2Extract the single fixing screw from the
centre of the grille slats (photo).
3Release the retaining clips and withdraw
the grille upwards from its lower spigot holes
(photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Bonnet-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2Pencil around the hinges on the underside
Bodywork 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes
6.3 Grille clip6.2 Grille screw

9.1A Front bumper upper fixing screw
of the bonnet or stick strips of masking tape
around them as a guide to refitting (photo).
3With the help of an assistant, support the
weight of the bonnet, unbolt the hinges and
lift the bonnet from the car.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do not
fully tighten the hinge bolts until the bonnet
has been gently closed and its alignment
checked. If the gap between the bonnet and
the front wings is not equal on both sides,
release the hinge bolts and move the bonnet
within the elongation provided at the bolt
holes.8 Bonnet lock and release
1
1The bonnet lock is operated by a remote
control lever inside the car through a cable
(photo).
2When closing the bonnet, the spring-loaded
striker should enter the lock centrally. If it
does not, release the lock bolts and slide the
lock as necessary (photo).3Engagement of the striker in the lock should
be adjusted for depth in order that the surface
of the bonnet is level with the front wings. To
do this, release the striker locknut and turn the
striker in or out by inserting a screwdriver in
its slot.
4In conjunction with the striker adjustment,
screw the bonnet rubber buffers in or out as
necessary to provide secure rattle-free
closure of the bonnet (photo).
5If the lock must be removed, first withdraw
the radiator grille as described in Section 6.
6To renew the release cable, unclip and
lower the release lever under the facia panel.
7Disconnect the cable from the lever and
then slip it from the lock operating arm.
Withdraw the cable.
8Refit the new cable by reversing the
removal operations.
9 Front bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the radiator grille as described in
Section 6 to expose the two upper bumper
fixing screws. Remove them (photos).
2Working inside at the lower edge of the
bumper remove the three fixing bolts.
3Finally, unscrew the side bracket fixing
bolts and lift the bumper away.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12•4 Bodywork
Fig. 12.2 Adjusting bonnet lock striker
(Sec 8)
Fig. 12.1 Bonnet lock and release cable (Sec 8)
8.4 Bonnet buffer
8.2 Bonnet lock8.1 Bonnet release lever7.2 Bonnet hinge

10 Front wing-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the headlamp and front parking
lamp as described in Chapter 9. 2Withdraw the side repeater lamp and
disconnect the leads.
3Remove the front roadwheel.
4Working under the wing, remove the fixing
screw and withdraw the plastic protective
shield (photos).
5Unscrew the wing lower fixing screws at the
front and rear ends.
6Open the bonnet and support it. Then
unscrew and remove the row of fixing screws
from the inner top edge of the wing.
7The wing joints will have to be cut round
with a sharp knife to release the mastic seal
before the wing can be lifted away.
8Clean the body mating flanges in readiness
for fitting the new wing.
9Apply a bead of mastic to the body flanges
and offer the new wing into position.
10Refit the fixing screws.
11Apply protective coating to the underside
of the wing and refinish the outer surface to
match the bodywork. 12Refit the headlamp, parking lamp and
repeater lamp.
13Fit the under wing shield and the
roadwheel, close the bonnet.
11 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the door and extract the three
armrest fixing screws. Remove the armrest in
a downward direction (photos).
2Remove the screws from the door tidy bin
(photo).
3Push the door remote control escutcheon
rearwards towards the door lock and remove
it (photos).
4Remove the window regulator handle
spring clip. Do this by inserting a length of
wire with a hooked end or by pulling a strip of
Bodywork 12•5
Fig. 12.3 Front bumper (Sec 9)9.1B Front bumper upper fixing screw
11.1B Removing armrest downward11.1A Removing an armrest screw
10.4A Unscrewing wing shield screw
10.4B Removing wing shield
Fig. 12.4 Front bumper upper screws (Sec 9)Fig. 12.5 Front bumper lower screws (Sec 9)
12

rag between the handle and the door trim
panel at its lower gap (photo).
5Insert the fingers or a broad blade between
the trim panel and the door and release the
panel.
6Remove the trim panel and the waterproof
sheet (photo).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but when
refitting the window regulator handle locate its
retaining spring clip fully and then simply
locate the handle on its splined shaft and
strike it sharply with the hand. Make sure that
with the window fully closed, the angle of the
regulator handle matches the one on the
opposite door (photo).
12 Door- dismantling
3
1Remove the trim panel as described in the
preceding Section.
Lock remote control handle
2Slide the handle rearwards to disengage
the tabs from the cut-outs.
3Rotate the lock handle and disconnect it
from the link rod.
Door glass
4Extract the screws from the glass
mounting.
5With the glass fully lowered, remove the
weatherseal strips from the glass slot in the
door.
Fig. 12.9 Door window regulator fixing
screws (Sec 12)Fig. 12.8 Removing door glass (Sec 12)
Fig. 12.7 Removing door weatherseal
(Sec 12)Fig. 12.6 Door glass mounting screw
(Sec 12)
12•6 Bodywork
11.7 Window regulator handle ready for
fitting11.6 Removing door trim panel11.4 Window regulator handle removed
11.3B Remote control handle withdrawn11.3A Removing remote control handle
escutcheon11.2 Door tidy bin screw

6Turn the glass very carefully and withdraw it
from the door. A new glass is supplied
complete with lower mounting.
Window regulator
7Extract the fixing screws (arrowed) (Fig.
12.9) and withdraw the regulator from the
door through one of the larger lower apertures
(photo).
Door lock (three-door)
8Extract the screw and remove the handle
from the edge of the door.
9Remove the glass guide channel fixing
bolts and withdraw the channel from the door. 10Extract the screws which hold the lock to
the edge of the door and remove it.
Door lock (five-door)
11Extract the screws which hold the lock to
the door edge. Withdraw the lock and
disconnect the lock plunger link rod (photo).
12The exterior handle with cylinder lock can
be removed by reaching into the door cavity
and unscrewing the two fixing nuts.
Refitting
13This is a reversal of the removal
operations. Oil and grease the lock and
window regulator mechanism.
13 Door-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the door fully and support it under its
lower edge on jacks or blocks covered with an
insulating pad.
2The door hinges are fixed to the doors with
hexagonal headed bolts and to the body pillar
with socket-headed bolts.
3The door check is incorporated in the lower
hinge (photo).
4On cars equipped with door mounted
Bodywork 12•7
Fig. 12.11 Removing door handle fixing
screw (three-door model) (Sec 12)Fig. 12.10 Removing door window
regulator (Sec 12)12.7 Door glass mounting
Fig. 12.14 Removing door lock fixing
screw (Sec 12)Fig. 12.13 Removing glass guide channel
(Sec 12)Fig. 12.12 Extracting glass guide channel
screw (Sec 12)
12
Fig. 12.15 Door lock components (Sec 12)12.11 Door lock plunger rod

speakers, central door locking or power
operated windows, the electrical leads must be
disconnected and withdrawn through the
flexible duct before the door hinges are
unbolted. Disconnection will require removal of
the door trim panel as described in Section 11.
5It is recommended that the door is unbolted
from the hinge, leaving the hinge attached to
the body pillar.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but leave
the bolts finger tight until the door has been
gently closed and its alignment checked.
7The door can be moved up and down or
sideways using the travel provided by the
elongated bolt holes.
8If the door is not flush with the adjacent
body panels then shims should be inserted
under the hinges.9Adjust the striker to provide smooth
positive closure (photo).
14 Tailgate-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the tailgate and have an assistant
support it.
2From the upper ends of the struts, prise out
the locking wedges from the ball cups and
disconnect the struts (photo).
3Disconnect the washer tube.
4Unscrew the hinge mounting bolts from the
tailgate and lift the tailgate from the car
(photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ifre-alignment is required, then the rear section
of the roof lining will have to be removed and
the hinge to body bolts released.
6Adjust the position of the lock striker to
provide smooth positive closure. The rubber
buffers should be screwed in or out in
conjunction with the adjustment of the striker
(photos).
7On some models, a remote control tailgate
opening release lever is fitted. Removal and
refitting of the cable is similar to that
described in Section 8 (photo).
15 Windscreen glass-
removal and refitting
5
1Remove the interior rear view mirror, the tax
disc and the wiper blade and arm.
2If the glass is intact, go inside the car and
pull the lip of the weatherseal downwards off
the body metal all along the top edge.
3Push the glass outwards while an assistant
stands outside ready to catch it.
4Clean the body flange and fit the
weatherstrip to the glass.
5Insert a length of strong cord in the body
flange groove of the weatherseal so that the
ends of the cord cross over at the centre of
the bottom run and hang out a few inches.
6Brush soapy water onto the edge of the
body flange and then offer the glass to the
12•8 Bodywork
14.7 Tailgate remote control release lever14.6C Tailgate rubber buffer14.6B Tailgate striker
14.6A Tailgate lock14.4 Tailgate hinge
14.2 Tailgate strut ball cup13.9 Door lock striker13.3 Door lower hinge

body so that the bottom edge of the rubber
seal engages over the metal flange.
7With an assistant pressing on the outside of
the glass, go inside and pull the cords evenly.
This will draw the lip of the weatherseal over
the body flange and seat the glass.
8Tap the glass with the palm of the hand to
settle it.
9If the weatherseal is in good condition then
it should prove waterproof, but if there is any
doubt, apply sealant with a gun between the
rubber and the glass and the rubber and the
body flange.
10Refit the mirror, tax disc and wiper.
16 Tailgate glass-
removal and refitting
5
1The operations are very similar to those
described for the windscreen, but disconnect
the leads from the heater element terminals.
17 Fixed side window
(five-door)-
removal and refitting
5
1The operations are similar to those
described for the windscreen in Section 15.
18 Opening side window
(three-door)-
removal and refitting
1
1Have an assistant support the glass and
then extract the screws from the hinges and
the toggle type fastener.
2Swivel the glass outwards and downwards
to remove it.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
19 Front seat-
removal and refitting
1
1Unbolt the seat front anchorage clamps
(photo).
2Slide the seat fully rearwards out of its
guide rails, but bend the end of the seatadjustment lever so that it passes over its
stop.
20 Rear seat-
removal and refitting
1
1The rear seat may be of one piece design or
split (60/40) depending upon the model.
2Either type of seat is easily removable once
the hinge bolts have been unscrewed and
removed (photo).
21 Centre console-
removal and refitting
1
1Pull the small black knobs from the heater
control levers.
2Extract the screws from both sides of the
heater control panel, remove the panel. As the
panel is withdrawn, disconnect the leads from
the cigar lighter and take care not to damage
the fibre optics.
3From inside the glove box, prise out the lid
stop block. Insert a screwdriver in the hole left
by its removal and unscrew the console fixing
screw (photo).
Bodywork 12•9
Fig. 12.18 Components of opening side window (Sec 18)
Fig. 12.17 Position of cord for fitting
windscreen weatherseal (Sec 15)
Fig. 12.16 Peeling back lip of windscreen
glass weatherseal (Sec 15)
21.3 Removing screw (glovebox side) from
centre console20.2 Rear seat mounting hinges19.1 Front seat mounting clamp
12