1983 FIAT UNO lock

to the engine. Also reconnect the brake servo
hose to the intake manifold (photos).
22Reconnect the leads to the reversing lamp
switch. Reconnect the transmission earth lead
(photos).
23Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as
described in Chapter 5.
24Reconnect the speedometer drive cable
to the transmission and tighten the knurled
retaining ring.
25Reconnect the low tension lead to the
distributor and the high tension lead to the
ignition coil.
26Reconnnect the electrical leads to thestarter motor, the oil pressure and
temperature switches and the coolant
temperature switch.
27Connect the leads to the alternator.
28Refit the air cleaner.
29Refill the cooling system. Refill the engine
with oil.
30Reconnect the battery.
31Refit the bonnet and connect the
windscreen washer tube.
32Fit the inner wing protective shields
(photo).
45 Engine- initial start-up after
major overhaul
4
1If new bearings and rings have been fitted,
it is likely that the engine will be stiff to turn so
make sure the battery is well charged.
2Switch on the ignition and check that
appropriate warning lights come on.
3Start up the engine. If it refuses to start,
refer to the “Fault Finding” Section in the
Reference section of this Manual.
4Watch the oil pressure warning light and
alternator charging indicator light. If there is
no charge or if the oil pressure warning light
does not go out after a second or two, havinghad time to fill the new oil filter, switch off and
recheck.
5If the warning lights go out, set the engine
to run on fast idle and check the engine for
leaks.
6Check the coolant level; it will probably go
down as air locks are filled.
7Keep the engine running at a fast idle and
bring it up to normal working temperature. As
the engine warms up, there will be some odd
smells and smoke from parts getting hot and
burning off oil deposits.
8When the engine running temperature has
been reached, adjust the idling speed, as
described in Chapter 3. Check and, if
necessary, adjust the ignition timing using a
stroboscope (see Chapter 4).
9Stop the engine and wait a few minutes;
check to see if there are any coolant or oil
leaks.
10Road test the car to check that the engine
is running with the correct smoothness and
power. If it does not, refer to “Fault finding” in
the Reference section of this Manual. Do not
race the engine. If new bearings and/or
pistons and rings have been fitted, it should
be treated as a new engine and run it at
reduced speed for at east 800 km (500 miles).
11After 800 km (500 miles) change the
engine oil and filter.
1•34 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
44.32 Inner wing protective shield44.26B Coolant temperature switch44.26A Oil pressure warning switch
44.22B Transmission earth lead
44.22A Reversing lamp switch on
transmission44.21B Brake servo hose at manifold44.21A Heater hose at manifold

Fault finding - all engines
Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults, do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check
procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not
normally diagnosed quickly. In any event, the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to
be made.
All engines 1•35
1
Engine fails to turn when starter operated
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine/transmission earth strap broken or loose
m mDisconnected or broken wire in starter circuit
m mIgnition/starter switch defective
m mStarter motor or solenoid defective (see Chapter 9)
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure) or long disuse (piston rings rusted
to bores)
Engine turns and fails to start
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery or engine earth strap loose
m mStarter motor connections loose
m mOil in engine/transmission too thick
m mStarter motor defective
m mVapour lock in fuel line (in hot conditions or at high altitude)
m mBlocked float chamber needle valve
m mFuel pump filter blocked
m mChoked or blocked carburettor jets
m mFaulty fuel pump
m mFuel tank empty
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mShorted or disconnected low tension leads
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mContact breaker point spring earthed or broken
m mFaulty condenser
m mDefective ignition switch
m mFaulty coil
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or plug bodies
m mBroken, loose or disconnected LT leads
m mIgnition leads connected wrong way round
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mFuel starvation or tank empty
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Engine stalls and will not restart
m
mToo much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs
m mFloat damaged or leaking or needle not seating
m mFloat lever incorrectly adjusted
m mIgnition failure - sudden
m mIgnition failure - misfiring precedes total stoppage
m mIgnition failure - in severe rain or after traversing water splash
m mNo petrol in petrol tank
m mPetrol tank breather choked
m mSudden obstruction in carburettor
m mWater in fuel system
Engine slow to warm up
m
mChoke linkage maladjusted
m mAir cleaner temperature control unit defective
m mThermostat stuck open (see Chapter 2)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Difficult starting when cold
m
mInsufficient choke
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or spark plug bodies
m mDirty or maladjusted contact breaker points
m mOther ignition fault or timing maladjustment (see Chapter 4)
m mFuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (may be due to incorrect valve clearances, burnt
or sticking valves, blown head gasket, worn or damaged pistons,
rings or bores)
m mIncorrect valve timing (after rebuild)
Difficult starting when hot
m
mIncorrect use of manual choke
m mFuel line vapour lock (especially in hot weather or at high altitudes)
m mIncorrect ignition timing
m mOther fuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see above)
Engine lacks power
m
mIgnition timing incorrect
m mContact breaker points incorrectly gapped
m mIncorrectly set spark plugs
m mDirty contact breaker points
m mDistributor automatic advance and retard mechanisms not
functioning correctly
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mAir cleaner choked
m mCarburation too rich or too weak
m mFuel filter blocked
m mAir filter blocked
m mFaulty fuel pump giving top and fuel starvation
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression
m mValve clearances incorrect
m mCarbon build-up in cylinder head
m mSticking or leaking valves
m mWeak or broken valve springs
m mWorn valve guides or stems
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mBurnt out valves
m mBlown cylinder head gasket (accompanied by increase in noise)
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mWorn or scored cylinder bore
m mBrakes binding
Engine misfires throughout speed range
m
mDefective or fouled spark plug
m mLoose, cracked or defective HT lead
m mMaladjusted, sticking or burnt valves
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mBlown head gasket
m mFuel contaminated
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Poor engine braking
m
mHigh idle speed
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow compression

Engine idles roughly
m mMixture too weak
m mAir leak in carburettor
m mAir leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to
carburettor
m mCarburettor incorrectly adjusted
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow tension leads on coil loose
m mLow tension lead to distributor loose
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mTracking across inside of distributor cover
m mFaulty coil
m mIgnition leads loose
m mSpark plugs fouled or incorrectly gapped.
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mIncorrect valve clearances
m mWidely differing cylinder compressions
m mLow battery voltage (charging fault)
m mBattery leads loose on terminals
m mBattery earth strap loose on body attachment point
m mEngine earth lead loose
Pre-ignition (pinking) during acceleration
m
mIncorrect grade of fuel being used
m mIgnition timing over-advanced
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mEngine overheated
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mFuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
m mMixture too weak
Engine runs on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high
m mIncorrect type of spark plug
m mOverheating
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mOther emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
Oil being lost due to leaks
m
mLeaking oil filter gasket
m mLeaking rocker cover gasket
m mLeaking timing gear cover gasket
m mLeaking sump gasket
m mLoose sump plug
Low oil pressure (verify accuracy of sender before
dismantling engine!)
m mOil level low
m mEngine overheating
m mIncorrect grade of oil in use
m mOil filter clogged or bypass valve stuck
m mPressure relief valve stuck or defective
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged or loose
m mMain or big-end bearings worn
m mOil pump worn or mountings loose
Excessive oil consumption
m
mOverfilling
m mLeaking gaskets or drain plug washer
m mValve stem oil seals worn, damaged or missing after rebuild
m mValve stems and/or guides worn
m mPiston rings and/or bores worn
m mPiston oil return holes clogged
Oil contaminated with water
m
mExcessive cold running
m mLeaking head gasket
m mCracked block or head
Oil contaminated with fuel
m
mExcessive use of choke
m mWorn piston rings and/or bores
Unusual mechanical noises
m
mUnintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blade)
m mWorn drivebelt
m mWorn valvegear (tapping noises from top of engine) or incorrect
clearance
m mPeripheral component fault (generator, coolant pump)
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load)
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load)
m mSmall-end bushes or gudgeon pins worn (light metallic tapping)
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when engine cold)
m mWorn timing chain and gears (rattling from front of engine)
m mWorn crankshaft (knocking, rumbling and vibration)
1•36 All engines

2
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “No loss” with radiator and integral expansion tank. Electric cooling
fan, belt-driven coolant pump, thermostat on cylinder head
General
Radiator fan cuts in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 to 94ºC (194 to 201ºF)
Radiator fan switches off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
Thermostat opens:
903 cc engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 89ºC (185 to 192ºF)
1116 cc and 1301 cc engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 to 87ºC (181 to 188.6ºF)
Fully open:
903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100ºC (212ºF)
1116 cc and 1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95ºC (203ºF)
Expansion tank pressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.78 bar (11 lbf/in2)
Coolant
Capacity:
903 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 litre (8.1 pint)
1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litre (10.6 pint)
1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litre (10.9 pint)
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based antifreeze
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Coolant pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Alternator adjuster and mountings nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Chapter 2 Cooling and heating systems
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Coolant mixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Coolant pump - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cooling system sensors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Drivebelt - tensioning and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Fault finding - cooling and heating . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of ChapterHeater - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Heater unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heating and ventilation system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Radiator fan thermostatic switch - removal, checking and refitting . 5
Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2•1
Specifications Contents
1 Description and
maintenance
1
1The cooling system consists of a
front-mounted radiator with built-in expansion
tank, a coolant pump (belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley) and a thermostatically-
controlled electric cooling fan.
2In order to assist rapid warm-up, athermostat is located in a housing at the
left-hand end of the cylinder head. The hose
connections to the thermostat housing vary
according to model.
3The heater is supplied with coolant from the
engine and incorporates a matrix and blower
with the necessary controls.
4The throttle valve plate block of the
carburettor is coolant-heated as a means of
improving fuel atomisation.
5Maintenance is minimal as in theory no
coolant should ever be lost from theexpansion tank. Regularly check that the
coolant level is between 50.0 and 70.0 mm
(1.97 and 2.8 in) above the MIN mark on the
tank with the engine cold. The need for
regular topping up will indicate a leak
somewhere in the system. If one cannot be
found suspect an internal leak in the engine
although this is usually confirmed by a rise in
the engine oil level and water on the dipstick
(photo). Any topping-up should be done using
an antifreeze mixture (see Section 3), not plain
water.
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

6Avoid unscrewing the expansion tank cap
when the engine is hot, but if this must be
done, cover the cap with a cloth to avoid
scalding by escaping steam.
7Periodically, check the condition of all
coolant hoses and tighten the clips.
2 Cooling system- draining,
flushing and refilling
1
1Set the heater temperature lever to
maximum.
2Unscrew the cap from the expansion tank.
3Disconnect the radiator bottom hose and
unscrew the cylinder block drain plug (1116
cc and 1301 cc engines) and allow the coolant
to drain. Refer to photo 29.21B, page 64.
4If the system is in good condition with no
sign of rust or dirt in the drained coolant, then
it may be refilled immediately. If the system
has been neglected and the antifreeze has notbeen regularly renewed and there is evidence
of rust and sediment in the drained liquid then
flush the system through with a cold water
hose.
5If the radiator should appear to be clogged,
it may be necessary to remove it (Section 7)
invert it and reverse flush it using a cold water
hose. If, after a reasonable period the water
still does not run clear, the radiator should be
flushed with a good proprietary cleaning
system. Extensive damage should be repaired
by a specialist or the unit exchanged for a
new or reconditioned radiator.
6Reconnect the bottom hose and screw in
the drain plug.
7Remove the plug (B) (Fig. 2.2) from the
bleed hole in the heater hose.
8Remove the plug (D) (Fig. 2.3) from the
bleed hole in the expansion tank.
9Pour antifreeze mixture slowly into the filler
neck of the expansion tank until it is seen to
come out of the expansion tank plug hole.
Screw in the plug.
10Add further coolant until it is seen todribble out of the hole in the heater hose.
Screw in the plug.
11Top up the expansion tank to the
specified level and screw on the tank cap.
12Start the engine and run it until the cooling
fan cuts in. Switch off, allow to cool and top
up if necessary to the specified mark on the
expansion tank.
3 Coolant mixtures
1In cold climates, antifreeze is needed for
two reasons. In extreme cases, if the coolant
in the engine freezes solid it could crack the
cylinder block or head. But also in cold
weather, with the circulation restricted by the
thermostat, and any warm water that is
getting to the radiator being at the top, the
bottom of the radiator could freeze, and so
block circulation completely, making the
coolant trapped in the engine boil.
2The antifreeze should be mixed in the
proportions advocated by the makers,
according to the climate. There are two levels
of protection. The first cuts risk of damage, as
the antifreeze goes mushy before freezing.
The second, valid all year round, is the
corrosion protection it offers - see below. The
normal proportion in a temperate climate to
provide maximum protection against freezing
and corrosion is 50% antifreeze and
50% water.
3Use only ethylene glycol based antifreeze
and preferably soft water.
4Antifreeze should be left in through the
summer. It has an important secondary
function, to act as an inhibitor against
corrosion. In the cooling system are many
different metals, in particular the aluminium of
the cylinder head. In contact with the coolant
this sets up electrolytic corrosion,
accentuated by any dirt in the system. This
corrosion can be catastrophically fast.
5After about two years, the effectiveness of
the antifreeze’s inhibitor is used up. It must
then be discarded, and the system refilled
with new coolant.
6In warm climates free from frost, an
2•2 Cooling and heating systems
Fig. 2.3 Plug (D) in expansion tank (Sec 2)Fig. 2.2 Plug (B) in heater hose (Sec 2)
1.5 Expansion tank cap
Fig. 2.1 Cooling system on 903 cc engine (Sec 1)

inhibitor should be used. Again, a reputable
make giving full protection must be chosen
and renewed every two years. Inhibitors with
dyes are useful for finding leaks, and on some
makes the dye shows when the inhibiting
ability is finished.
4 Thermostat-
removal, testing and refitting
1
1The thermostat assembly is mounted on the
flywheel end of the cylinder block.
2Unfortunately, the thermostat/housing is a
complete unit and failure of the thermostat will
necessitate the purchase of the complete
component (photo).
3If the thermostat/housing is removed from
the engine, it can be suspended in water and
the water heated to check out its opening
temperature. Movement of the thermostat
valve can be observed to some extent
through the openings in the housing.
4When refitting, always use a new gasket at
its mounting face (photo).
5 Radiator fan thermostatic
switch- removal, checking
and refitting
1
1Drain the cooling system.
2If the thermostatic switch is being removed
because the fan is not operating and the
switch is suspect, check the fan fuse first,
before removing the switch.3To remove the switch, disconnect the leads
from the terminals and unscrew the switch.
4Connect a test bulb and battery across the
switch terminals and then immerse the
sensing part of the switch in a container of
water. Heat the water and, using a
thermometer, check the temperature of the
water when the bulb lights up, indicating the
switch is functioning. The switch should
operate at approximately 194ºF (90ºC). Allow
the water to cool and check that the switch
cuts out at 185ºF (85ºC). Renew a faulty
switch.
5Refitting of the switch is the reverse of the
removal procedure. Always fit a new O-ring on
the switch.
6 Radiator fan-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the electrical leads from the
radiator fan motor.
2Unbolt the fan mounting struts from the
radiator and lift the complete assembly away.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Radiator-
removal and refitting
1
1Drain the cooling system.
2Disconnect the electrical leads from the
radiator fan motor and thermostatic switch.3Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
radiator (photos).
4Release the clips from the top of the
radiator and withdraw the radiator complete
with fan from the engine compartment
(photos).
5The radiator is of combined plastic/metal
construction and any repair should be left to
specialists. In an emergency however, minor
leaks from the radiator may be cured by using
a radiator sealant with the radiator in situ.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fill the
cooling system as described in Section 2.
8 Drivebelt-
tensioning and renewal
1
1The drivebelt for the alternator and coolant
pump is correctly tensioned if it deflects
through 10.0 mm (0.39 in) under moderate
thumb pressure at the mid point of the longest
run of the belt.
2To tighten the belt, release the mounting
and adjuster nuts on the alternator and prise
the alternator away from the engine. Tighten
the nuts when the belt is taut and then
re-check the tension as previously described.
Never over-tension a belt or the coolant pump
or alternator bearings may be damaged.
3Check the condition of the belt at regular
intervals. If frayed or cracked, renew it in the
following way.
4Release the alternator mounting and
adjuster nuts and push the alternator fully in
Cooling and heating systems 2•3
7.3A Radiator top hose4.4 Fitting thermostat housing
(1116 cc engine)4.2 Thermostat housing
7.4B Removing radiator/fan assembly7.4A Radiator fixing clip7.3B Radiator hose to thermostat housing
2

towards the engine. Slip the belt off the
pulleys. If this is difficult, turn the crankshaft
pulley using a spanner on its retaining nut
while pressing the belt over the edge of the
pulley rim. Use this method to fit the new belt
after first having engaged it with the coolant
pump and alternator pulley grooves.
5Tension the belt as previously described.
6The tension of a new belt should be
checked and adjusted after the first few
hundred miles of running.
9 Coolant pump- removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: The design of the pump differs between
the 903 cc and the other two engines, but the
removal, overhaul and refitting operations are
essentially similar.
1To gain access to the coolant pump, open
the bonnet and remove the air cleaner.
2Slacken the alternator pivot and adjustment
nuts, push the alternator in towards the
engine and slip the drivebelt from the coolant
pump pulley. Unplug and remove the
alternator.3Drain the cooling system as previously
described.
4Disconnect the hoses from the coolant
pump, also the metal coolant transfer pipe
(photo).
5Unscrew and remove the coolant pump
securing bolts, and lift the pump from the
engine. Peel away and discard the old gasket.
6Clean away external dirt.
7The pump is likely to need overhaul for
worn or noisy bearings, or if the gland is
leaking. There is a drain hole between the
gland and the bearings to prevent
contamination of the bearing grease by leaks,
and possible damage to the bearings. Glandleaks are usually worse when the engine is not
running. Once started, a leak is likely to get
worse quickly, so should be dealt with soon.
Worn bearings are likely to be noted first due
to noise. To check them, the pulley should be
rocked firmly, when any free movement can
be felt despite the belt. But if the bearings are
noisy, yet there is not apparently any free
play, then the belt should be removed so the
pump can be rotated by hand to check the
smoothness of the bearings.
8Dismantling and assembly of the pump
requires the use of a press, and it is preferable
to fit a new pump.
9For those having the necessary facilities,
overhaul can be carried out as follows.
10Remove the retaining nuts and separate
the two halves of the pump.
11The pump shaft is an interference fit in the
impeller, bearings, and pulley boss. How the
pump is dismantled depends on whether only
the gland needs renewing or the bearings as
well, and what puller or press is available to
get everything apart.
12Assuming complete dismantling is
required, proceed as follows. Supporting it
close in at the boss, press the shaft out of the
pulley. Pull the impeller off the other end of
the shaft.
13Take out the bearing stop screw.
14From the impeller end, press the shaft
with the bearings out of the cover half of the
housing.
15Press the shaft out of the bearings, take
off the spacer, the circlip, and the shouldered
ring.
16Do not immerse the bearings in cleaning
2•4 Cooling and heating systems
1 Pump body
2 Pump cover
3 Impeller
4 Connector for hose from
outlet to pump
5 Seal
6 Gasket7 Circlip
8 Bearing shoulder washer
9 Inner seal
10 Inner bearing
11 Bearing retainment screw
and lock washer12 Spacer
13 Outer seal
14 Outer bearing
15 Lock washer
16 Pulley
17 Pump shaft
Fig. 2.5 Sectional views of 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine coolant pump (Sec 9)
Fig. 2.4 Sectional view of 903 cc engine coolant pump (Sec 9)
9.4 Coolant distribution tube at rear of
pump
1 Pump cover
2 Bearing spacer
3 Bearing stop screw
4 Cover nuts
5 Lifting bracket
6 Housing
7 Impeller
8 Gland (seal)
9 Circlip
10 Gasket
11 Shouldered ring
12 Grommets
13 Bearing
14 Pulley
15 Shaft

Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
2•8 Cooling and heating systems
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system
m mPump ineffective due to slack drivebelt
m mRadiator blocked either internally or externally
m mKinked or collapsed hose causing coolant flow restriction
m mThermostat not working properly
m mEngine out of tune
m mIgnition timing retarded or auto advance malfunction
m mCylinder head gasket blown
m mEngine not yet run-in
m mExhaust system partially blocked
m mEngine oil level too low
m mBrakes binding
Engine running too cool
m
mFaulty, incorrect or missing thermostat
Loss of coolant
m
mLoose hose clips
m mHoses perished or leaking
m mRadiator leaking
m mFiller/pressure cap defective
m mBlown cylinder head gasket
m mCracked cylinder block or head
Heater gives insufficient output
m
mEngine overcooled (see above)
m mHeater matrix blocked
m mHeater controls maladjusted or broken
m mHeater control valve jammed or otherwise
defective