1983 FIAT UNO steering

2 Tie-rod end balljoint-
renewal
4
1Jack up the front of the car and remove the
roadwheel from the side on which the balljoint
is to be renewed.
2Unscrew the tie-rod balljoint taper pin nut
and, using a suitable extractor, separate the
tie-rod balljoint from the eye of the steering
arm (photo).
3Release the locknut on the tie-rod,
unscrewing it only just enough to be able to
unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.
4With the tie-rod end removed, wire brush
the threads on the tie-rod without disturbing
the position of the locknut; apply grease to
the threads and screw on the new tie-rod end
until the locknut can be tightened by turning it
through the same amount of rotation it was
given when unscrewed.
5Reconnect the balljoint taper pin to the eye
of the steering arm and tighten the retaining nut
to the specified torque. Never grease the taper
pin or eye; the pin will otherwise turn when the
nut is tightened. If a taper pin is inclined to
rotate when a nut is being tightened, apply
pressure to the socket of the joint to force the
taper pin into closer contact with the tapered
hole in the eye. If a taper pin is pointing
downward, a strong lever can be used to apply
the extra pressure. Where the taper pin of a
balljoint points upward, a jack placed under the
joint socket will produce the desired result.
6Although the careful fitting of the new
tie-rod end will have approximatelymaintained the original front wheel alignment
of the car, manufacturing differences alone of
the new component make it essential to
check the setting, as described in Section 8
and to adjust if necessary.
3 Steering rack gaiter-
renewal
4
1If lubricant is found to be leaking from the
gaiters (at the ends of the housing), first check
that the gaiter clips are secure.
2If the lubricant is leaking from the gaiter
through a split, the gaiter can be removed in
the following way, without the necessity of
withdrawing the gear from the car.
3Remove the tie-rod end from the side
concerned, as described in the preceding
Section.
4Release the gaiter clips; draw the gaiter
from the rack housing and off the tie-rod.
5If the gaiter has only just split, road dirt is
unlikely to have entered and lubricant can be
wiped away. If it is severely grit contaminated,
the steering gear should be completely
removed, the original lubricant flushed out
and new lubricant pumped in.
6If the gear does not have to be removed
from the car, slide the new gaiter into position
and secure it with the inboard clip.
7The rack lubricant is molybdenum
disulphide type grease.
8When recharging the gaiter with this type of
lubricant, give full steering lock to the side
being replenished so that the extendedsection of the rack will take the grease into the
housing as it returns.
9Reconnect the tie-rod end to the tie-rod
and the eye of the steering arm. Provided the
locknut is tightened by only rotating it through
the same distance by which it was loosened,
the front wheel alignment (tracking) should not
have been unduly disturbed. Even so, check
the alignment as described in Section 8.
4 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Set the steering wheel and the front
roadwheels in the straight-ahead attitude.
Prise out the hub plate (photo).
3Unscrew and remove the steering wheel
securing nut, then pull the wheel from the
column shaft. If it is tight on its splines, tap it
upward at the wheel rim, using the palms of
the hands.
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process; make sure that the spokes of the
wheel are in the lower part of the wheel.
5Tighten the securing nut to the specified
torque.
5 Steering column- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
1Remove the steering wheel as previously
described.
2Extract the screws from the underside of
the steering column upper shroud and then lift
off the upper and lower shroud sections
(photo). Where applicable, detach and remove
the trim panel from the underside of the facia
on the driver’s side.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Disconnect the wiring plug for the steering
column combination switch.
5Unscrew the clamp nuts and pull the
combination switch off the end of the steering
shaft.
6Unscrew the column upper mounting
bracket bolts and lower the shaft/column tube
to rest on the seat (photo).
7Remove the pinch-bolt from the lower
universal joint coupling and remove the
shaft/column tube from the car.
Overhaul
8Remove the pinch-bolt from the upper
universal joint and disconnect the lower shaft.
9Grip the tube mounting flange in the jaws of
a vice and relieve the staking at the base of
the tube.
10Using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
tap the shaft down out of the tube.
11The lower bush will be ejected while the
upper one should be prised out of the tube.
12Reassemble the upper shaft into the tube
by tapping new bushes into position.
10•2 Steering
5.6 Steering column upper mounting5.2 Removing steering column shrouds
4.2 Removing steering wheel hub plate2.2 Disconnecting a tie-rod end balljoint

13Stake the lower end of the tube to retain
the bush.
14Reassembly is a reversal of removal,
noting that the universal joint coupling
pinch-bolts should pass smoothly through the
grooves in the steering shaft.
15Fit the steering wheel when the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position.
16Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the battery.
6 Steering rack-
removal and refitting
4
1Set the steering in the straight-ahead
mode.
2Working inside the car, disconnect thesteering shaft lower coupling by unscrewing
and removing the pinch-bolt (photo).
3Disconnect the tie-rod end balljoints from
the steering arms as described earlier in this
Chapter.
4Unscrew and remove the rack clamp
mounting bolts and withdraw the steering
gear from the car crossmember (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the front wheel alignment
as described in Section 8.
7 Steering gear- overhaul
4
1A worn steering gear should not be
overhauled, but a new or factory
reconditioned unit fitted.
2After a high mileage, the following
adjustment may be needed however.
Rack damper - adjustment
3The slipper in the rack housing presses the
rack into mesh with the pinion. This cuts out
any backlash between the gears. Also, due to
its pressure, it introduces some stiffness into
the rack, which cuts out excessive reaction
from the road to the steering wheel.
4In due course, wear reduces the pressures
exerted by the slipper. The pressure is
controlled by the cover plate and a spring.
5The need for resetting of the slipper is not
easy to detect. On bumpy roads, the shockinduced through the steering will give a feeling
of play, and sometimes faint clonking can be
heard. In extreme cases, free play in the
steering may be felt, though this is rare. If the
steering is compared with that of a new rack
on another car, the lack of friction damping is
quite apparent in the ease of movement of the
steering wheel of the worn one.
6Centralise the steering rack. Do this by
counting the number of turns lock-to-lock and
then turning the steering wheel from one lock
through half the number of turns counted.
7Take the cover plate off the damping
slipper, remove the spring and shims, and refit
the cover plate.
8Screw in the cover plate bolts just enough
to hold the slipper against the rack.
9Measure the gap between the cover plate
and the rack housing using feeler blades.
10Select shims from the thicknesses
available (0.10, 0.125 and 0.30 mm) to provide
a shim pack thicker than the gap by between
0.05 and 0.13 mm.
11Remove the cover plate, fit the spring and
bolt on the cover plate with the selected shims.
8 Steering angles and front
wheel alignment
4
1Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide good steering and roadholding char-
acteristics and to ensure slow and even tyre
Steering 10•3
Fig. 10.4 Renewing steering shaft bushes
(Sec 5)Fig. 10.3 Unscrewing combination switch
clamp nuts (Sec 5)Fig. 10.2 Removing steering column
shroud screws (Sec 5)
Fig. 10.6 Camber angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Camber angle (positive)Fig. 10.5 Sectional view of rack damper
(Sec 7)6.4 Steering rack housing at pinion end
10
6.2 Steering shaft coupling

Note: Before diagnosing steering faults, be
sure that trouble is not due to incorrect or
uneven tyre pressures, inappropriate tyre
combinations, or braking system or
suspension defects.
Car pulls to one side
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Vibration at steering wheel
m
mRoadwheels out of balance or loose
m mTyre damage
m mLoose driveshaft-to-hub nuts
Car wanders
m
mPlay in steering gear
m mWear in steering balljoints
Heavy or stiff steering
m
mLack of lubricant in steering gear or balljoints
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Play at steering wheel
m
mWear in steering rack or balljoints
m mLoose steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt or
worn splines
m mWorn steering column/shaft universal joints
Rattles from steering
m
mSteering damper defective or in need of
adjustment
m mLoose steering column mounting bolts
m mLoose steering column/shaft coupling
pinch-bolts
m mLoose steering rack housing mounting bolts
m mWorn steering shaft bushes
Excessive or uneven tyre wear
m
mIncorrect steering geometry
m mWorn steering components
m mCollision damage wear. Before considering the steering angles,
check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that
the front wheels are not buckled, the hub
bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted
and that the steering linkage is in good order,
without slackness or wear at the joints.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber, is the angle at which the road
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive
camber is the angle (in degrees) that the wheels
are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical.
Castor, is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
Steering axis inclination, is the angle when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle
between vertical and an imaginary line drawn
between the upper and lower suspension
strut mountings.
Toe,is the amount by which the distance
between the front inside edges of the
roadwheel rims differs from that between the
rear inside edges.
3If the distance between the front edges is
less than that at the rear, the wheels are said
to toe-in. If the distance between the front
inside edges is greater than that at the rear,
the wheels toe-out.
4Camber and castor are set during
production of the car and are not adjustable.
Any deviation from specification will be due tocollision damage or to gross wear in the
components concerned.
5To check the front wheel alignment, first
make sure that the lengths of both tie-rods are
equal when the steering is in the straight-ahead
position. Measure between the locknut at the
balljoint and the ball cup at the end of the rack
housing by passing a thin rod under the rack of
the gaiter. If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the tie-rod.
6Obtain a tracking gauge. These are
available in various forms from accessory
stores or one can be fabricated from a length
of steel tubing suitably cranked to clear the
sump and bellhousing and having a setscrew
and locknut at one end.
7With the gauge, measure the distance
between the two wheel inner rims (at hub
height) at the rear of the wheel. Push the
vehicle forward to rotate the wheel through
180º (half a turn) and measure the distance
between the wheel inner rims, again at hub
height, at the front of the wheel. This last
measurement should differ from (be less than)
the first by the appropriate toe-in according to
the Specification (see Specifications Section).
8Where the toe-in is found to be incorrect,
release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts and turn
the tie-rods equally. Only turn them a quarter
of a turn at a time before re-checking the
alignment. Viewed from the centre line of the
car, turning the tie-rod clockwise will
decrease the toe-in.
9Make sure that the gaiter outboard clip isreleased otherwise the gaiter will twist as the
tie-rod is rotated.
10Always turn both rods in the same
direction when viewed from the centre line of
the vehicle otherwise the rods will become
unequal in length. This would cause the
steering wheel spoke position to alter and
cause problems on turns with tyre scrubbing.
11On completion, tighten the tie-rod balljoint
locknuts without altering their setting. Check
that the balljoint is at the centre of its arc of
travel and then retighten the gaiter clip.
9 Steering column lock-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the steering wheel and column
shrouds as described in Section 5, also the
steering column combination switch.
2Unscrew and remove the steering column
mounting bolts and lower the column to
expose the lock shear bolts.
3Drill out the bolts or extract them using an
extractor.
4Refer to Chapter 4 for details of separation
of the ignition switch from the lock section.
5When fitting the new lock, tighten the shear
bolts until their heads break off.
6Bolt up the column, fit the combination
switch, shrouds and steering wheel and
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
10•4 Steering
Fig. 10.9 Steering column lock shear bolts
(arrowed) (Sec 9)
Fig. 10.8 Front wheel alignment diagram
(Sec 8)
X Front dimension Y - X = Toe-in
Y Rear dimension
Fig. 10.7 Castor angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Castor angle (positive)
Fault finding - steering

balljoint from the hub carrier using a suitable
“splitter” tool. If such a tool is not available,
support the base of the brake disc and drive
the balljoint taper pin downwards, but screw
on the nut to protect the threads.
4Remove the hub carrier.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, use a new
driveshaft nut and tighten all nuts and bolts to
the specified torque. Stake the driveshaft nut
after tightening.
6 Track control arm-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the front of the car and support it
securely.
2Unless a special tool is available to press
the track control arm balljoint from the hub
carrier, the driveshaft will have to be
disconnected as described in Chapter 7,
Section 2, paragraphs 1 to 8 to provide more
space to enable the balljoint taper pin to be
driven from the hub carrier. This should now
be done as described in the preceding
Section (photo).
3Unbolt the inboard end of the track control
arm. This is retained by a pivot bolt and a
clamp (photo).
4As previously explained, a worn balljoint or
flexible pivot bushes will necessitate renewal
of the track control arm complete. Note that itmay, however, be possible to obtain a
replacement balljoint through a motor factor.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all
nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Use a
new driveshaft nut and stake it into the
driveshaft groove after tightening.
7 Front crossmember-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the front of the car, support securely
with axle stands placed under the
side-members or sill jacking points.
2Remove the front roadwheels.
3Unscrew the nuts from the tie-rod end
balljoint taper pins and then using a balljoint
“splitter” tool disconnect the balljoints from
the steering arms on the hub carrier.
4Unscrew the bolts which hold the inboard
track control arms to the body members, and
also withdraw the pivot bolt from the body
bracket.
5Support the weight of the engine/
transmission using a hoist or support bar
across the top of the engine compartment as
described in Chapter 6.
6Disconnect the lower (central) engine/
transmission flexible mounting from the floor
pan.
7Unscrew the steering rack mounting boltsand remove them. Leave the steering rack
hanging loose.
8Remove the front crossmember mounting
bolts and manoeuvre it from the car.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all
nuts and bolts to the specified torque wrench
settings and on completion, check the front
wheel alignment as described in Chapter 10.
8 Rear shock absorber-
removal and refitting
3
1Open the tailgate and remove the cover
from the shock absorber top mounting which
is located within the luggage area (photo).
2Hold the flats on the spindle with an
open-ended spanner and then unscrew the
self-locking nut.
3Working under the car, disconnect the
shock absorber lower mounting.
4Withdraw the unit from under the wing.
5The shock absorber can be tested as
described in Section 2.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
mounting nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
9 Rear coil spring-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands placed under the
side-members or sill jacking points.
2Remove the roadwheel.
3Place a jack under the brake drum and
support the suspension trailing arm.
4Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting and then lower the trailing arm jack
until the coil spring can be withdrawn.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. If the
spring is being changed, make sure that it is
of the same colour code as the original and
that its lower coil is correctly located up
against its stop in the spring pan.
6Tighten the shock absorber lower mounting
bolt to the specified torque.
11•4 Suspension
8.1 Rear shock absorber upper mounting
coverFig. 11.7 Front crossmember bolts (Sec 7)Fig. 11.6 Steering rack mounting bolts
(Sec 7)
6.3 Track control arm inboard fixing6.2 Separating track control arm balljoint
from hub carrier

affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
5 Major body damage-
repair
5
1Major repair to the body should be left to
your Fiat dealer or specialist body repairer.
2Special jigs and alignment gauges are
required without which steering and
suspension characteristics may be incorrect
after the repairs are completed.
6 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet.
2Extract the single fixing screw from the
centre of the grille slats (photo).
3Release the retaining clips and withdraw
the grille upwards from its lower spigot holes
(photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Bonnet-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2Pencil around the hinges on the underside
Bodywork 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes
6.3 Grille clip6.2 Grille screw

4Reach up behind the facia panel on the side
opposite to the glove box and unscrew the
remaining console fixing screw.
5Withdraw the console downwards and
disconnect the fibre optics from their source.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
22 Facia panel-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the instrument panel as described
in Chapter 9.
2Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10). 3Disconnect the choke control lever and
cable from the facia panel as described in
Chapter 3.
4Remove the screws arrowed in Fig. 12.19.
5Remove the facia fixing screws, their
locations on the facia are shown in Fig. 12.20.
Screw (3) is inside the glove box (photos).
6Release the facia from the upper clips and
withdraw it.
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.23 Seat belts
1
1Seat belts are fitted as standard equipment
to both the front and rear seats.
2Regularly inspect the belts for fraying and if
evident, renew the belt.
3The front belt reel may be unbolted if the
seat is pushed fully forward and the reel cover
panel removed (photo).
4The rear belt reels are located at each side
of the luggage area (photo).
5When removing or refitting a belt from its
anchorage point, it is essential to maintain the
original fitted sequence of spacer, washer and
wave washer otherwise the belt anchor plate
will not swivel (photo).
23.4 Rear seat belt reel
23.3 Front seat belt lower
mounting
12•10 Bodywork
23.5 Front seat belt upper
mounting
Fig. 12.20 Rear view of facia panel showing fixing screw locations (Sec 22)
1 and 5 Clips 2, 3 and 4 Screws22.5C Facia panel lower mounting screw
(left-hand side)
22.5B Facia panel lower mounting screw at
centre console22.5A Facia fixing screw inside gloveboxFig. 12.19 Facia panel fixing screws (Sec
22)

Braking system................................................................................. 14
Part A: Braking system general
Front brake pads all later models
Part B: Braking system - Turbo ie models
Description
Front disc pads - renewal
Front disc caliper - removal and refitting
Front disc caliper - overhaul
Front brake disc - inspection, renovation or renewal
Rear disc pads - renewal
Rear disc caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting
Rear brake disc - inspection, renovation and renewal
Pressure regulating valve
Brake pedal - removal and refitting
Vacuum servo unit and master cylinder - general
Antiskid system - description
Electrical system.............................................................................. 15
Alternator (999 cc models) - removal and refitting
Alternator (later models) - removal and refitting
Alternator brushes - renewal
Starter motor (999 cc models) - removal and refitting
Starter motor (1301 cc Turbo ie, 1372 cc ie, 1372 cc Turbo ie)
- removal and refitting
Starter motor brushes (later models) - renewal
Fuses - later models
Relays (Turbo ie models) - general
Headlamps - later models
Headlamp beam adjusters for load compensation - later models
Headlamp unit removal - later models
Headlamp dim-dip system - description
Front fog lamps bulb/unit - removal and refitting and beam
adjustment
Horn - relocation
Steering column combination switches (later models) - removal
and refittingInstrument panel (Turbo ie models) - removal and refitting
Facia-mounted switches (1301 cc Turbo ie model) - removal
and refitting
Instrument panel (later models) - removal and refitting
Auxiliary control panel (later models) - removal and refitting
Heater control panel (later models) - removal and refitting
Trip master
Interior roof mounted spotlamp, switch and/or clock - removal
and refitting
Central door locking system
Cigar lighter (later models) - removal and refitting
Electrically operated window switches - removal and refitting
Windscreen wiper motor (later models) - removal and refitting
Windscreen washer reservoir (Turbo) - removal and refitting
Tailgate wiper motor (later models) - removal and refitting
Radio Check control system sensors - description
Check control system sensors - testing
Suspension....................................................................................... 16
Front anti-roll bar - removal and refitting
Suspension strut later models
Bodywork.......................................................................................... 17
Plastic components
Rear view mirrors
Door armrest
Tailgate (Turbo ie model) - component removal and refitting
Radiator grille (1301 cc Turbo ie model) - removal and
refitting
Radiator grille (1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Bumpers (1301 cc Turbo ie, 1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie
models) - removal and refitting
Rear hinged windows - removal and refitting
Door trim panel (Turbo ie model) - removal and refitting
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•3
13
1 Introduction
Since its introduction in 1983, the FIAT Uno
has had a number of modifications and
improvements including the fitting of a twin
choke carburettor, low profile tyres, tinted
windows and remotely-controlled central door
locking.
The major mechanical change was the
introduction of the FIRE (Fully Integrated
Robotised Engine) on 45 and 45S models to
be followed by a new 1108 cc “FIRE” engine
on the 60S model from 1989 on.
A 1301 cc Turbo ie engine model wasavailable for a short period. This model had a
Bosch LE2 Jetronic electronic fuel injection
(ie) and a turbocharger to give added
performance. To uprate the braking to suit,
disc brakes were fitted to the rear in place of
the original drum type brakes.
A 1372 cc engine model was introduced in
1989. Two versions were initially available. A
Bosch Mono-Jetronic single-point fuel
injection (SPi) system, as found on the 70 SX
model and Bosch L3.1 or L3.2 Jetronic
multi-point fuel injection (MPi) systems were
fitted to Turbo models. L3.2 MPi system
models were equipped with catalytic
converters, to improve exhaust emission. All
fuel injection engines are fitted with electroni-
cally controlled engine management systems.
A new style instrument panel, switchgearand a revised facia layout was introduced in
1989.
During 1992, SPi fuel systems were fitted to
the 999 cc and 1108 cc engines, along with
catalytic converters for improved exhaust
emissions.
Five speed transmissions were introduced
to 999 cc models in 1993.
It is recommended that this Supplement is
always referred to before the main Chapters
of the Manual.
Project vehicles
The vehicles used in the preparation of this
supplement, and appearing in many of the
photographic sequences were a 1986 Uno
45S FIRE, a 1988 1301 cc Uno Turbo ie and a
1991 1372 cc Uno SXie.
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Fuses (903, 999, 1116, 1299/1301 and 1301 cc Turbo ie) (continued)
Fuse No. Rating Circuit
Supplementary fuses at side of main fuse block:
A 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front fog lamps
B 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cooling fan (Turbo ie models)
C 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel injector cooling fan (Turbo ie models)
D 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric windows
E 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump (Turbo ie models)
Fuses (later 903, 999, 1108, 1372 ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie)
Fuse Rating Circuit
1 7.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH tail, RH front parking, rear number plate lamps and check panel
2 7.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH tail, LH front parking, cigar lighter illumination, clock light, heater
control illumination and map reading light
3 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH headlamp main beam
4 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH headlamp main beam and warning light
5 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan (except Turbo ie models) and horn
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter, courtesy lamps, digital clock, stop-lamp switch, clock
and radio
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH headlamp dipped beam
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH headlamp dipped beam
9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog lamp and warning lamp
10 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear screen and warning lamp
11 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel, stop-lamps, direction indicators, reversing lamps,
warning module and carburettor cut-off (FIRE models only)
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan, heater/ventilation control illumination lights and digital
clock light
13 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper, windscreen washer pump and rear wiper/washer
(where fitted)
14 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horns and relay
15 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hazard warning light and indicator light
Supplementary fuses at side of main fuse block:
A 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric windows
B 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking (where fitted)
C 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Injector cooling fan (where fitted)
D 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlamp washers (where fitted)
E 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglamp and warning lamp
F - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spare
G 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump (fuel injection models)
-10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated Lambda sensor
Supplementary fuses on steering column relay bracket:
-10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiskid monitor circuit (where fitted)
-25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiskid supply circuit (where fitted)
Steering and suspension
General
1301 cc Turbo ie
Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 55’ to 2º 35’ positive
Number of turns of steering wheel, lock-to-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42
Later models
Steering angles:
Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30’ ± 30’
Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2º10’ ± 15’
Toe-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 2.0 mm
1301/1372 cc Turbo ie
Steering angles of roadwheels:
Inner wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36º 43’
Outer wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31º 27’
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Anti-roll bar clamp bolts (1301 and 1372 cc Turbo ie) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Anti-roll bar end fixing nuts (1301 and 1372 cc Turbo ie) . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
13•16 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models