1983 FIAT UNO engine

advance points than the earlier system.
Comparison of Fig. 13.82 with Fig. 4.2
illustrates the difference in layout. Note that
the distributor is mounted on the rear end of
the cylinder head and is driven by the
camshaft.
63When working on the Digiplex 2 ignition
system or associated components, the
precautionary notes outlined in Section 9 of
Chapter 4 must be adhered to.
64As with the earlier system, test
procedures possible on the Digiplex 2 system
are restricted due to the need for specialised
testing equipment. The following checks are
possible, however, using a conventional test
meter.
Ignition coil check
65To check the resistance of the coil’s
primary windings, connect the probes of an
ohmmeter between the positive terminal and
the negative terminal as shown in Fig. 13.83,
and check that the resistance reading at 18 to
28ºC is 0.45 ohms ± 10% (photo).66To check the resistance of the coil’s
secondary windings, connect the probes of an
ohmmeter between the positive terminal and
the HT lead terminal as shown in Fig. 13.84.
Check that the resistance reading at 18 to
28ºC (64 to 82ºF) is 4800 ohms ± 10%.
Ignition timing check
67Refer to paragraph 2 in this Section.
Engine speed and TDC sensor check
68To check the resistance between the
sensor and the ECU, detach the wiring
connector (photo). Connect the probes of an
ohmmeter to the connector terminals and
check that the resistance reading is between
600 and 760 ohms at 20ºC (68ºF). If the
reading is not as specified, the sensor must
be renewed.
69The gap between the sensor and the pins
on the rear face of the flywheel must be
between 0.2 and 0.8 mm. Any deviation
outside of this clearance will be due to
mechanical damage to the sensor andnecessitates its renewal. The sensor is
accurately positioned during manufacture and
secured with tamperproof screws; it does not
require any adjustment during servicing. If it is
necessary to renew the sensor, a special gap
setting tool is required and the task is
therefore best entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•91
Fig. 13.82 Digiplex 2 ignition system wiring circuits and components (Sec 10)
10.68 ECU location on the 1372 cc ie
engine10.65 Ignition coil and connections on the
1372 cc ie engineFig. 13.84 Test connections for ignition
coil secondary windings check - Digiplex 2
ignition system (Sec 10)
Fig. 13.83 Test connections for ignition
coil primary windings check - Digiplex 2
ignition system (Sec 10)
13
1 Connection point (lines connected to
the intake manifold)
2 ECU
3 Ignition coil
4 Distributor
5 Engine flywheel (with
five pins)
6 On/off switch (if fitted)
for advance reduction
7 On/off switch 2 (if fitted)
for curves
8 Battery
9 Spark plugs
10 Tachometer
11 Diagnostic socket
12 Engine speed and TDC sensor
13 To check actuator idle speed
14 To terminal no. 1 of injection control unit
(rpm signal)

11 Clutch
Clutch pedal - adjustment
(cable clutch)
Á
1The method of adjusting the clutch has
been revised.
2Fully depress the clutch pedal two or three
times.
3Using a suitable measuring stick placed in
contact with the floor panel (carpet peeled
back), measure dimension “X” in Fig. 13.87.
This dimension must be taken between the
centre of the pedal pad and the floor, first withthe pedal in the fully depressed position, and
then in the fully released position.
4The dimension measured should fall within
the range quoted in the Specifications for this
Supplement.
5Any adjustment which may be required
should be carried out by slackening the
locknut on the cable at the release lever (on
top of the gearbox) and turning the adjusting
nut. Tighten the locknut on completion.
Hydraulic clutch - description
6Some later models are fitted with an
hydraulically operated clutch in place of the
cable operated type. The main components of
the system are a master cylinder, with
separate hydraulic fluid reservoir, and the
operating cylinder. The master cylinder is
Distributor (Digiplex Z) -
removal and refitting#
70Proceed as described in paragraphs 14
to 21. When refitting the distributor, ensure that
the engine is still set at the TDC position. Engage
the rotor arm into position on the shaft so that its
lug engages in the slot in the top end of the drive
spindle. Align the rotor arm with the reference
slot on the edge of the distributor housing as
shown in Fig. 13.85, then fit the distributor into
position and secure with the retaining nuts
(photo). As previously mentioned, the fine timing
is made automatically through the ECU.
Spark plugs and HT leads -
general
71Copper-cored spark plugs are now fitted
to all models. The recommended types are
given in the Specifications Section of this
Supplement.72The HT lead connection sequence to the
distributor cap on the 999 and 1108 cc
engines is shown in Fig. 13.86. That for the
1301 cc Turbo ie is as shown (photo).
13•92 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.87 Clutch pedal adjustment
diagram - cable clutch (Sec 11)
For dimension “X” , refer to Specifications
Fig. 13.86 HT lead connections on distributor cap of the 999 and 1108 cc engines (Sec 10)
Fig. 13.85 Rotor arm must align with
slot (1) in distributor housing when refitting
distributor - Digiplex 2 ignition system
(Sec 10)
10.72 HT lead connecting sequence on the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine10.70 Ignition distributor and HT lead
connections on the 1372 cc ie engine
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system
Starter motor turns but engine will not start
m mExcessive TDC sensor gap
m mEngine speed or TDC sensors short-circuited
m mFaulty ECU
m mECU multipin contacts corroded
m mDefective ignition coil
m mDefective ignition switch
m mECU terminal 8 cable faulty
Engine firing on three cylinders
m
mFaulty spark plug
m mDistributor cap cracked
m mFaulty HT cable
Loss of power, excessive fuel consumption
m
mTDC sensor incorrectly located
m mFault in ECU advance angle facility

mounted in-line with and just forward of the
clutch pedal. The operating cylinder is
mounted within a housing on top of the
transmission. The fluid reservoir is located in
the engine compartment and is mounted on
the left-hand side near the bulkhead. No
settings or specific procedures are given by
the manufacturer at the time of writing.
Maintenance
(hydraulic clutch)Á
7Periodically check the fluid level in the
reservoir. If the level has dropped, top it up
with the specified fluid. The fluid level must
not be allowed to drop below the MIN level
mark on the side of the reservoir (photos). If
the fluid level drops by a significant amount, it
is indicative of a leak in the hydraulic circuit
and this must therefore be traced and
repaired at the earliest opportunity.
8Inspect the fluid lines and connections for
security and any signs of leaks.
Clutch master cylinder -
removal, overhaul
and refitting
#
9If the cylinder is to be dismantled, it will first
be necessary to obtain a cylinder repair kit.
Start by detaching and removing the trim
panel from the underside of the facia on the
driver’s side.
10Place a suitable covering over the floor
carpet to prevent staining in the event of fluid
spillage. Clamp the fluid supply hose at the
master cylinder end, then unscrew the
retaining clip and detach the hose from the
cylinder. Position the hose out of the way and
with its end pointing up.
11Detach the operating rod clevis from the
brake pedal.
12Unscrew and detach the hydraulic pipe to
the operating cylinder from the master
cylinder (photo).
13Undo the two retaining nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder.
14To dismantle the cylinder, prise free and
pull back the dust boot, extract the retainer
and withdraw the operating rod.
15Invert the cylinder and shake free the
piston and seal assembly. If it is stuck inside
the cylinder, apply moderate air pressure
(from a foot pump) into the tail end and catchthe assembly in a clean cloth as it is ejected.
16Remove the seals noting their orientation.
Clean all components in methylated spirits or
new hydraulic fluid. If the cylinder is damaged,
scored or badly worn it must be renewed. The
seals must always be renewed once they are
removed.
17Assemble the new seals to the piston and
lubricate the cylinder, seals and piston
assembly with new hydraulic fluid (of the
specified type) before assembling them.
Ensure that the seals are fitted the correct
way round (as noted during removal).
18Renew the dust boot, fit and secure the
operating rod into position with the retainer,
then refit the dust boot over the cylinder.
19If the intake pipe connector was removed,
this must be refitted using a new seal.
20Refit the cylinder in the reverse order of
removal. Connect and hand tighten the
hydraulic pipe to the operating cylinder before
fully tightening the cylinder securing nuts. The
hydraulic pipe can then be fully tightened.21Reconnect the fluid supply hose to the
cylinder and tighten the retaining clip to
secure. Release the clamp.
22Top up the clutch fluid level in the
reservoir then bleed the system as described
later in this Section.
Clutch operating cylinder -
removal, overhaul
and refitting
¢
23If the cylinder is to be dismantled once it
is removed, it will first be necessary to obtain
a cylinder repair kit. Access is much improved
by first detaching the appropriate ducts and
hoses from the areas directly above the
cylinder, on top of the transmission/clutch
housing.
24To avoid excessive fluid loss when the
hydraulic line is detached from the operating
cylinder, remove the filler cap from the
reservoir, place a clean piece of polythene
sheet over the filler neck and refit the reservoir
cap.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•93
Fig. 13.88 Exploded view of the hydraulic clutch components (Sec 11)
1 Filler cap
2 Fluid reservoir
3 Hose
4 Master cylinder5 Cover
6 Clip
7 Bracket
8 Hose9 Operating cylinder
10 Bracket
11 Circlip
12 Operating lever
11.12 Clutch master cylinder and hydraulic
pipe connections11.7B Topping up the fluid level in the
clutch fluid reservoir11.7A Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir
showing MIN and MAX markings
13

25Unscrew the union nut and detach the
hydraulic fluid line from the operating cylinder
(photo).
26Undo the cylinder/mounting bracket
retaining bolts and lift clear the cylinder
together with the bracket (photo). Release the
retaining clip and separate the cylinder from
the bracket.
27To dismantle the cylinder, prise free and
pull back the dust boot, withdrawing it
together with the operating rod.
28Invert the cylinder and shake free the
piston and seal assembly. If it is stuck inside
the cylinder, remove the bleed screw then
apply moderate air pressure (from a foot
pump) into the bleed port and catch the
cylinder in a clean cloth as it is ejected.
29Remove the seals noting their orientation.
Clean all components in methylated spirits or
new hydraulic fluid. If the cylinder is damaged,
scored or badly worn it must be renewed. The
seals must always be renewed once they are
removed.
30Assemble the new seals to the piston and
lubricate the cylinder, seals and piston
assembly with new hydraulic fluid (of the
specified type) before assembling them.
Ensure that the seals are fitted the correct
way round (as noted during removal).
31Renew the dust boot, fit and secure the
operating rod into position then refit the dust
boot over the cylinder. If removed, refit the
bleed screw.
32Reconnect the cylinder to the mounting
bracket and refit the combined assembly to
the vehicle in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure the hydraulic union is clean and take
care not to damage the threads as it is
reconnected.
33Remove the polythene seal from the
hydraulic reservoir filler neck, top up the fluid
level and bleed the system as described
below.
Clutch hydraulic system -
bleeding#
34The clutch hydraulic circuit is bled in
much the same manner to that described for a
brake circuit. Refer to Section 12 in Chapter 8
and proceed as described, but note that the
bleed screw for the clutch circuit is located inthe end of the operating cylinder (see
photo 11.25). The clutch hydraulic circuit
reservoir is mounted in the engine
compartment on the left-hand side near the
bulkhead and is separate from the master
cylinder. As the system is being bled, ensure
that the fluid level in the reservoir is
maintained between the MIN and MAX level
marks. Do not allow the fluid level to drop
below the MIN level mark otherwise air will
enter the system and greatly lengthen the
operation. Wipe clean any fluid spillage from
the paintwork or adjacent components as it
has a corrosive effect if left.
12 Transmission
PART A:
1301 CC TURBO IE ENGINE
Description
1The transmission is of five-speed type,
based on that used in the Fiat Strada 105 TC.
2For all practical purposes, the operations
described in Chapter 6 apply, but observe the
following differences.
Gearchange linkage -
removal and refitting Á
3This is of two-rod type.
4Remove the gaiter and disconnect the rodsat the gear lever end as described in Chap-
ter 6, Section 3.
5Disconnect the rods at the transmission
end by unscrewing the nuts and bolts which
connect the linkage rods to the selector rods
(photo).
6Extract the spring clip which retains the end
of the short link rod (photo).
Gearchange linkage
(Antiskid models) - general
7The gearchange linkage and internal
selector arrangement has been modified, as
shown in Fig. 13.89.
Final drive output shafts -
description and
oil seal renewal
#
8The output shafts on this transmission
incorporate a flange on the left-hand side, to
which a coupling flange on the driveshaft is
bolted. On the right-hand side, an
intermediate shaft (see Section 13) is splined
directly into the differential side gear.
9A leaking oil seal may be renewed on the
left-hand side of the final drive casing after
first disconnecting the driveshaft. Then using
two levers, prise out the flange/stub shaft
against the tension of its retaining circlip.
10Unbolt and remove the bearing cover.
When refitting the cover, make sure that the
O-ring is in good condition.
11To renew the oil seal on the right-hand
side, first remove the intermediate driveshaft,
and then prise the defective seal out of the
final drive housing using a suitable tool.
12Apply grease to the new seal lips before
refitting the intermediate shaft or the stub
shaft. Tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
PART B:
1372 CC IE AND 1372 CC
TURBO IE ENGINES
Description
1The transmission is of five-speed type,
based on that used in the FIAT Tipo. The
transmission is mounted in-line with the
engine and is located in the left-hand side of
the engine compartment. Drive from the
clutch is transferred through the input shaft
and the mainshaft to the integrally-located
13•94 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
12A.6 Gearchange link rod spring clip
(arrowed) on the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine12A.5 Gearchange rod connections at
transmission (1301 cc Turbo ie engine)
11.26 Clutch operating lever (A) and
operating cylinder bracket-to-transmission
housing bolt (B)11.25 Clutch operating cylinder showing
hydraulic line connection and bleed nipple
(arrowed)

require maintenance other than general
inspection for wear in the linkage joints. If
excessive wear is found in any of the joints, they
can be individually detached and renewed.
13Access to the control rods is eased by
detaching and lowering the exhaust system
from the exhaust manifold.
14If a new adjustable control rod is to be
fitted, remove the original rod as a unit, but do
not alter its adjustment for length. The new
rod can then (if required) be set to the same
length as the original in order to maintain the
original setting. Do so by loosening off the
locknut and turning the balljoint as required;
ensure that the angle of the joint is correct
before tightening the locknut.
15Access to the gear lever/main connecting
rod joint from above is made by prising back
the gear lever gaiter from the centre console.
Access from underneath can be made by
raising and supporting the car on axle stands.
Working from the underside of the lever, undo
the retaining nuts and remove the inspection
plate from the floor (photos).
16Any adjustment to the gear linkage should
be entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
Transmission -
removal and refitting#
17The transmission can be removed
together with the engine and then separated
as described in Section 7, or on its own (as
described below), leaving the engine in
position in the car. Before starting to remove
the transmission, it should be noted that
suitable equipment will be required to support
the engine during this procedure.
18Disconnect the battery negative lead.
19Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
20Refer to Section 11 in this Chapter for
details and detach the clutch operating
cylinder together with its mounting bracket
from the top of the transmission, but do not
disconnect the hydraulic fluid hose from the
cylinder connection. Leave the cylinder
attached to the bracket. Tie the cylinder and
bracket up to support them out of the way.
21Reaching down between the transmission
and the bulkhead, unscrew the knurled
retaining nut and withdraw the speedometer
cable from the transmission.
22Remove the front roadwheel trims, then
loosen off the front wheel retaining bolts.
Raise the vehicle and support it on axle
stands at a suitable height to allow working
underneath and eventual transmission
removal from under the front end.
23Drain the transmission oil as described
previously in this Section.
24Disconnect and remove the starter motor
(photos).
25Detach the reversing light switch lead
connector.
26Undo the retaining bolt and detach the
earth lead from the rear end of the
transmission (see photo 7C.33). Refit the bolt
once the lead has been disconnected.
13•96 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
12B.15B Access cover to gear lever lower
connection to rod on the 1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.92 Exploded view of the gear selector and control road assembly components
fitted to 1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.15A Gear lever connection to the main
connecting rod on the 1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.91 Exploded view of the gear selector lever, rod and linkage components on
1372 cc models (Sec 12)

27The engine must now be supported at its
left-hand end. If the engine/transmission lift
bracket is unbolted it can be attached at
another suitable position on the engine and
the lift sling/tool attached to it, but take care
not to attach it to a weak fixing point.
28The engine will need to be supported
using an engine lift beam/support bar of the
type shown in Fig. 13.93. A strong wood or
metal beam resting on blocks in the front wing
drain channels will suffice, or alternatively use
an engine lift hoist and sling.
29Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter and
Section 2 in Chapter 7 for details and remove
the front driveshaft each side.
30Prise back the tabs of the retaining
washers, then undo the retaining nuts and
detach the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Detach the exhaust mounting
bracket (where applicable) and lower the
exhaust to allow access to the gearchange
linkages.
31Disconnect the gearchange control and
selector link rod balljoints (photo). Do not alter
their lengths or the adjustment setting will be
affected.
32Using a small diameter pin punch, drive the
retaining pins from the retaining clips which
secure the left-hand side underwing shield.
Prise free the clips and detach the shield.
33Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
lower cover plate from the flywheel housing
(photo).
34Position a trolley jack under the
transmission with an interposed block ofwood to protect the casing and spread the
load. Raise the jack to support the weight of
the transmission.
35Check that the weight of the engine is
securely supported, then unbolt and detach
the front engine mounting unit, then the rear
engine mounting unit.
36Unscrew and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission to the engine. As
they are removed, note the position of any
brackets or additional fixings secured by
these bolts (photo).
37Check around the transmission to ensure
that all fixings are detached from it and out of
the way, then carefully pull the transmission
free from the engine dowel pins. If possible
engage the aid of an assistant to help in
guiding or lowering the unit as it is removed.
As the unit is withdrawn from the engine, take
care not to place any strain on the input shaft.
Once the input shaft is clear of the clutch, the
transmission can be lowered and manoeuvred
from underneath the car. If available, lower the
unit onto a suitable crawler board to ease its
withdrawal from under the front end of the car.
38Dismantling and overhaul of this
transmission is not recommended. If the
transmission has covered a high mileage it is
likely that several internal components are in
need of renewal. The cumulative cost of
renewing all worn and defective components
will almost certainly make overhaul
uneconomical when compared with the cost
of a new or service exchange transmission
from a FIAT dealer or transmission specialist.39Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
a) Ensure that the engine and transmission
mating surfaces and the dowel pins are
clean and that all clutch components are
in good condition.
b) Apply a thin smear of molybdenum
disulphide grease to the splines of the
input shaft. Do not over-lubricate though
or the grease may work its way onto the
clutch friction surfaces and cause clutch
slip.
c) Raise the transmission so that it is in-line
with the engine, engage the end of the
input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub
and align the splines of each to enable the
transmission to be pushed home. It may
well be necessary to turn the flywheel a
fraction so that the splines align for
re-engagement
d) Do not fully tighten the engine and
transmission retaining bolts until all are
attached.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts and nuts of the
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).
f) Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter for
details on refitting the driveshafts.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
quantity and grade of oil before lowering
the car to the ground (see paragraph 11).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•97
Fig. 13.93 FIAT lift beam/support bar in
place to support the weight of the engine.
Inset shows lift hook engagement point -
1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.24B . . . and retaining bolts (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie engine12B.24A Starter motor electrical
connection . . .
12B.36 Transmission upper retaining bolts.
Note bracket under the left-hand bolt12B.33 Lower cover plate and retaining
bolts (arrowed)12B.31 Gear control and selector link rod
joints
13

3The boot retaining band must be crimped
using suitable pinchers at the highest point on
the boot.
Intermediate driveshaft
(Turbo ie models) #
Description
4On these models, an intermediate
driveshaft is fitted between the final drive of
the transmission and the flange of the
right-hand driveshaft.
5A support bearing assembly for the
intermediate shaft is bolted to the engine
crankcase. The bearing carrier also acts as
the alternator bracket.
Removal
6Drain the transmission oil. Disconnect the
right-hand driveshaft from the intermediate
shaft flange, move the driveshaft aside, and
support it.
7Unscrew and remove the bolts which hold
the intermediate shaft retainer plate to the
crankcase support bracket.
8Withdraw the intermediate shaft from the
final drive housing. The shaft assembly,
complete with bearing, will pass through the
crankcase support bracket until the bearing
retainer and flexible boot can be slipped off
the shaft.
Bearing renewal
9The bearing on the intermediate shaft canbe renewed after removing the plate, circlip
and washer, and pressing the shaft out of the
bearing.
10When fitting the new bearing, apply
pressure only to the inner track, and do not
apply any heat.
Refitting
11This is a reversal of removal. Tighten all
bolts to the specified torque and replenish the
transmission oil.
Inboard CV joints (Turbo
ie models) - overhaul #
12A worn joint is best renewed, but it may
be necessary to dismantle it for cleaning, if
replacement of a split boot has been
neglected.
13Disconnect the boot securing clip and pull
the boot up the shaft. Wipe away the old
grease. 14Extract the joint securing circlip and pull
the joint from the shaft.
15Renew the joint complete if it is worn or
damaged.
16Before dismantling the joint, align the
housing and ball cage marks “A” and “B”
(Fig. 13.100).
17Tap the joint from its backplate.
18Turn the ball/cage assembly through 90º,
mark its relative position to the outer track
and withdraw it (photo).
19The balls are a light snap fit in the cage.
Once they are removed, the inner and outer
cage members can be separated; again, mark
the side of the cages in relation to the outer
track (photos).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•99
Fig. 13.99 Extracting the CV joint circlip -
Turbo ie models (Sec 13)
Fig. 13.98 Components of the intermediate
driveshaft - Turbo ie models (Sec 13)
1 Bearing retaining
plate
2 Ball bearing3 Wave washer
4 Circlip
5 Bearing cap
Fig. 13.97 Crimping the driveshaft boot
securing band (Sec 13)
13.19C Components of CV joint13.19B Separating inner and outer cage
members
13.19A CV joint balls and cage13.18 Removing inboard CV joint ball/cage
assembly from outer track
Fig. 13.100 CV joint housing and ball cage
alignment marks (A and B) - Turbo ie
models (Sec 13)
13

14B.54 Master cylinder/vacuum servo
located next to the coolant expansion tank
(1301 cc Turbo ie model)
29Fit the new pads, complete with anti-rattle
springs (photo).
30Refit the caliper using new self-locking
bolts, or if not available, apply thread-locking
fluid to clean threads of the original bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
31Apply the brake pedal several times to
bring the disc pads up against the disc.
32Top up the brake fluid reservoir if
necessary.
33Check the adjustment of the handbrake.
34Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
Rear disc caliper -
removal, overhaul and
refitting
¢
35Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 25 to 27.36Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
caliper. To do this, grip the cable nipple and
pull it until the cable can be slipped out of its
lever groove (photo). If necessary, slacken the
cable adjustment.
37Using a pair of pliers or similar tool, turn
the piston in an anti-clockwise direction until it
can be removed from the cylinder.
38Having obtained a repair kit, renew the
seal and dust excluder.
39Reassemble the piston to the cylinder,
turning it clockwise as far as it will go.
40Reconnect the handbrake cable.
41Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 30 to 32.
Rear brake disc -
inspection, renovation
or renewal
ª
42The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 6, but the caliper bracket
fixing bolts are of the socket-headed type and
thread-locking fluid is used, not lockplates
(photo).
Pressure regulating valve
43The valve renewal and adjustment
operations are described in Chapter 8,
Section 10, but the luggage compartment
should be loaded with 45 kg and the load
applied to the bracket eye should be 11 kg.
Brake pedal -
removal and refitting#
44The brake master cylinder and vacuum
servo are mounted on the left-hand side of theengine compartment rear bulkhead. In conse-
quence, the brake pedal on right-hand drive
cars operates through a cross-shaft, which is
located underneath the facia panel inside the
car.
45The cross-shaft is supported in two
brackets, whose mounting nuts can be
reached through cut-outs in the insulation on
the engine compartment rear bulkhead (photo).
46To remove the cross-shaft, working inside
the car, take off the cover from the left-hand
end of the shaft, and then disconnect the
servo pushrod from the crankarm on the
cross-shaft (photo).
47Disconnect the brake pedal from the
right-hand crankarm on the cross-shaft
(photo).
48Disconnect the accelerator pedal by
extracting the split pin which secures its pivot
spindle.
49The cross-shaft may now be removed
after extracting the cotter pin from the
left-hand end of the shaft.
50Push the shaft first to the right, and then
to the left, to release it from its brackets.
51Alternatively, the cross-shaft, complete
with brackets, may be removed as an
assembly if the bulkhead nuts are unscrewed.
52Removal of the brake and clutch pedals is
described in Chapter 5, Section 4, but note
that on hydraulic clutch models, the master
cylinder will also require removal as described
in Section 11 of this Chapter.
53Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
13•102 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
14B.47 Right-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft14B.46 Left-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft
14B.45 Brake pedal cross-shaft fixed nut
(arrowed) on engine compartment rear
bulkhead
14B.42 Unscrewing a rear caliper bracket
bolt14B.36 Disconnecting the handbrake cable
from the caliper lever14B.29 Rear disc pad