1983 FIAT UNO heater

2The control lever mounting platform can be
removed after extracting its fixing screws.
3The coolant control valve can be removed
after extracting its fixing nuts.
4Unscrew the screws which hold the heater
matrix in the casing and then slide the matrix
from its location. 5If the matrix is leaking, do not attempt a
repair, but obtain a new one. These are
usually obtainable on an exchange basis from
radiator repairers.
6The heater casing can be separated after
prising off the clips and removing the bolts.
The blower motor/fan can then be lifted out. 7Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, but
set the cables to give complete range of travel
between open and closed positions of the flap
valve or coolant valve concerned.
Cooling and heating systems 2•7
Fig. 2.11 Exploded view of heater (Sec 13)
Fig. 2.12 Heater control components (Sec 13)
2

Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
2•8 Cooling and heating systems
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system
m mPump ineffective due to slack drivebelt
m mRadiator blocked either internally or externally
m mKinked or collapsed hose causing coolant flow restriction
m mThermostat not working properly
m mEngine out of tune
m mIgnition timing retarded or auto advance malfunction
m mCylinder head gasket blown
m mEngine not yet run-in
m mExhaust system partially blocked
m mEngine oil level too low
m mBrakes binding
Engine running too cool
m
mFaulty, incorrect or missing thermostat
Loss of coolant
m
mLoose hose clips
m mHoses perished or leaking
m mRadiator leaking
m mFiller/pressure cap defective
m mBlown cylinder head gasket
m mCracked cylinder block or head
Heater gives insufficient output
m
mEngine overcooled (see above)
m mHeater matrix blocked
m mHeater controls maladjusted or broken
m mHeater control valve jammed or otherwise
defective

1 General description
The electrical system is of 12 volt negative
earth type and employs a belt-driven
alternator and a pre-engaged type starter
motor.
The models in the range are all adequately
equipped with electrical accessories, while SX
versions also have power windows and
centralised door locking plus a check control
system (Section 34).
2 Battery- inspection, charging,
removal and refitting
2
1The battery is of maintenance-free type and
under normal circumstances, no topping up
will be required, but regularly check that the
electrolyte level is between the minimum and
maximum lines on the translucent battery
casing.
2If the electrolyte level does drop below theminimum line, suspect a leak in the battery
casing or that the alternator is overcharging. If
the latter is the case, rectify the alternator fault
and then prise out the two rectangular plugs
from the top of the battery and top up with
distilled or purified water.
3Always keep the battery terminals clean
and smear them with petroleum jelly to
prevent corrosion.
4The battery will normally be kept fully
charged by the alternator, but it is possible for
the battery to become discharged if the daily
mileage is very low with much use being
made of the starter and electrical accessories.
5When the battery begins to deteriorate with
age it may also require a boost from a mains
charger.
6Disconnect both battery leads before
connecting the mains charger. 7To remove the battery from the car, first
disconnect the leads from the battery
terminals (earth first) and then unscrew the
securing clamp from the casing projection at
the base of the casing (photo).
8Lift the battery from its mounting platform.
Refitting is a reversal of removal. Reconnect
the earth cable last.
Fuses
Circuit protected Fuse rating (A)
1 Stop lamps, direction indicator lamps, instrument panel warning
lamps, tachometer economy gauge, check control system . . . . . . 10
2 Windscreen wiper and washer, rear screen wiper/washer, check
system panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
3 Left front parking, right rear tail lamp, cigar lighter illumination,
heater control and clock, digital clock illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
4 Right front parking lamp and left rear tail lamp, instrument panel
illumination and rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5
5 Left-hand dipped headlamp, rear foglamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
6 Right-hand dipped headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
7 Left-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
8 Right-hand headlamp (main beam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
9 Engine cooling fan and horn (Comfort) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
10 Heater booster fan, digital clock map reading lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
11 Heated tailgate glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
12 Courtesy lamps, cigar lighter, radio power feed, disc pad
sensors, economy gauge (ES models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
13 Hazard warning lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
14 Spare (Comfort), Horn (Super) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
BulbsWattage
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40/45 or Halogen H4 60/55
Front parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Side repeater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear foglamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Direction indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rear number plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Courtesy lamp (roof) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Courtesy lamp (pillar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Warning and indicator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wedge base
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Alternator mounting and adjustment nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 87
Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
9•2 Electrical system
2.7 Battery clamp
If battery terminal corrosion
has occurred, it may be
neutralised by applying
sodium bicarbonate or
household ammonia.

8Withdraw the solenoid and yoke off the
armature and from the drive end bracket.
Note the steel and fibre washers and the
shims on the armature shaft (photo).
9Extract the split pin and tap out the
engagement lever pivot pin.
10Pull the rubber packing piece from the
drive end bracket.
11Withdraw the armature with solenoid
plunger, coil spring and engagement lever.
12Clean the commutator with a fuel soaked
rag or very fine glass paper. Do not undercut
the mica insulators on the commutator.
Drive
13To remove the drive assembly from the
armature shaft, use a piece of tubing to tap
the stop collar down the shaft to expose the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and stop
collar and slide the drive assembly from the
shaft.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new snap ring to secure the drive to the
armature shaft.
10 Fuses and relays
1
1The fuse box is located under the left-hand
side of the facia panel and is held in place by
two hand screws (photo).2The fuses and the circuits protected are
identified by symbols. Refer also to Specifi-
cations.
3If a fuse blows, always renew it with one of
identical rating. If the new fuse blows
immediately, find the cause before renewing
the fuse for the second time. This is usually
due to defective wiring insulation causing a
short circuit.
4Never substitute a piece of wire or other
makeshift device for a proper fuse.
5Various relays are plugged into the fuse
block and include those for the heated rear
screen, heater and horns.
6On cars fitted with power-operated front
windows and centralised door locking, the
fuses and relays for these circuits are
mounted separately under the right-hand side
of the facia panel.
7The relay (flasher unit) for the direction
indicators and hazard warning lamps is
located on the lower part of the
steering column combination switch and
is accessible after removing the column
shroud.
11 Steering column
combination switch
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column shrouds. 3The switch can be removed without
having to take off the steering wheel, but for
clarity, the photographs show the wheel
removed.
4Unscrew the switch clamp nuts, disconnect
the wiring plug and remove the switch from
the steering column (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the activating projections on the
steering wheel hub engage correctly with the
switches.
12 Courtesy lamp switch
1
1These are located in and secured to the
body pillars with a single screw (photo).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Extract the switch screw and withdraw the
switch.
4If the leads are to be disconnected, tape
them to the pillar to prevent them from
slipping inside.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply
petroleum jelly to the switch contacts to
prevent corrosion.
13 Rocker and push-button
switches
1
1These are mounted in panels on each side
of the instrument panel.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Prise off the instrument panel hood cover.
This is held in place by clips. The careful use
of a screwdriver will assist in releasing them
(see Section 21).
4Extract the switch panel fixing screws.
These compress spring clips which in turn
secure the switch panel (photo).
5Withdraw the switch panel until the wiring
plugs can be disconnected. Record the
location of the plugs before disconnecting
Electrical system 9•5
11.4 Unscrewing steering column switch
clamp nut
1 Direction indicator flasher unit (relay)10.1 Fuse block (later models)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated tailgate window relay9.8 Starter motor dismantled
13.4 Switch panel screw12.1 Courtesy lamp switch
9

27 Tailgate wiper motor-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the blade and arm as previously
described. Unscrew the drive spindle bezel
nut.
2Open the tailgate fully.
3Unclip and remove the wiper motor cover.
4Unscrew the mounting screws, withdraw
the motor and disconnect the wiring plug
(photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
28 Washer system
1
1The washer system for the windscreen and
the tailgate operates from a bag type fluid
reservoir within the engine compartment
(photo).
2The reservoir bag is fitted with two pumps,
one for each system (photo).
3Use screen cleaning fluid mixed in the
recommended proportion in the washer fluid
reservoir and in very cold weather add a small
quantity of methylated spirit.
4To clear a blocked washer jet nozzle or to
adjust the wash jet glass-striking pattern,
insert a pin part way into the jet nozzle.
29 Heated tailgate window-
precautions and repair
2
1The heater element inside the tailgate glass
should be treated with care.
2Clean only with a damp cloth and wipe in
the direction in which the filaments run. Avoid
scratching with rings on the fingers, or by
allowing luggage to rub on the glass. Never
stick adhesive labels over the heater element.
3Should one of the heater filaments be
broken it can be repaired using one of the
special silver paints available, but follow the
manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
30 Radio/cassette- fitting
2
1In-car entertainment equipment is not
provided as standard on the models covered
by this Manual.
2However, the centre console is designed to
receive a radio set after removing the blanking
plate behind which a power lead is already
provided.
3The ignition system and other electrical
components are suppressed during
production of the car and further suppression
should not be required other than earthing the
wiper motor.
Receiver
4Fit the radio/cassette using the installation
kit supplied with the equipment.
5On Comfort models, fit an in-line fuse in the
power feed. On Super models the radio
supply is protected by fuse number 12.
6Make sure that the radio is well earthed to a
metal body component.
Aerial
7The recommended locations for the aerial
are towards the rear of the right-hand front
wing or on the windscreen pillar.
8Fitting instructions for Fiat aerials are
supplied with them, but the following general
advice will help if using non-Fiat equipment.9Motorised automatic aerials rise when the
equipment is switched on and retract at
switch-off. They require more fitting space
and supply leads, and can be a source of
trouble.
10There is no merit in choosing a very long
aerial as, for example, the type about three
metres in length which hooks or clips on to
the rear of the car, since part of this aerial will
inevitably be located in an interference field.
For VHF/FM radios the best length of aerial is
about one metre. Active aerials have a
transistor amplifier mounted at the base and
this serves to boost the received signal. The
aerial rod is sometimes rather shorter than
normal passive types.
11A large loss of signal can occur in the
aerial feeder cable, especially over the Very
High Frequency (VHF) bands. The design of
feeder cable is invariably in the co-axial form,
ie a centre conductor surrounded by a flexible
copper braid forming the outer (earth)
conductor. Between the inner and outer
conductors is an insulator material which can
be in solid or stranded form. Apart from
insulation, its purpose is to maintain the
correct spacing and concentricity. Loss of
signal occurs in this insulator, the loss usually
being greater in a poor quality cable. The
quality of cable used is reflected in the price
of the aerial with the attached feeder cable.
12The capacitance of the feeder should be
within the range 65 to 75 picofarads (pF)
approximately (95 to 100 pF for Japanese and
American equipment), otherwise the
adjustment of the car radio aerial trimmer may
not be possible. An extension cable is
necessary for a long run between aerial and
receiver. If this adds capacitance in excess of
the above limits, a connector containing a
series capacitor will be required, or an
extension which is labelled as
“capacity-compensated”.
13Fitting the aerial will normally involve
making a 7/8 in (22 mm) diameter hole in the
bodywork, but read the instructions that come
with the aerial kit. Once the hole position has
been selected, use a centre punch to guide
the drill. Use sticky masking tape around the
area for this helps with marking out and drill
location, and gives protection to the
9•10 Electrical system
Fig. 9.8 Radio housing and power lead (A)
(Sec 30)
28.2 Washer pumps28.1 Washer fluid reservoir27.4 Tailgate wiper motor

can be drained out (photos). Brightwork
should be treated in the same way as
paintwork. Windscreens and windows can be
kept clear of the smeary film which often
appears, by the use of proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.
3 Maintenance-
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well asdetails on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
12•2 Bodywork
2.4B Sill drain with non-return valve2.4A Door drain hole
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

body so that the bottom edge of the rubber
seal engages over the metal flange.
7With an assistant pressing on the outside of
the glass, go inside and pull the cords evenly.
This will draw the lip of the weatherseal over
the body flange and seat the glass.
8Tap the glass with the palm of the hand to
settle it.
9If the weatherseal is in good condition then
it should prove waterproof, but if there is any
doubt, apply sealant with a gun between the
rubber and the glass and the rubber and the
body flange.
10Refit the mirror, tax disc and wiper.
16 Tailgate glass-
removal and refitting
5
1The operations are very similar to those
described for the windscreen, but disconnect
the leads from the heater element terminals.
17 Fixed side window
(five-door)-
removal and refitting
5
1The operations are similar to those
described for the windscreen in Section 15.
18 Opening side window
(three-door)-
removal and refitting
1
1Have an assistant support the glass and
then extract the screws from the hinges and
the toggle type fastener.
2Swivel the glass outwards and downwards
to remove it.
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
19 Front seat-
removal and refitting
1
1Unbolt the seat front anchorage clamps
(photo).
2Slide the seat fully rearwards out of its
guide rails, but bend the end of the seatadjustment lever so that it passes over its
stop.
20 Rear seat-
removal and refitting
1
1The rear seat may be of one piece design or
split (60/40) depending upon the model.
2Either type of seat is easily removable once
the hinge bolts have been unscrewed and
removed (photo).
21 Centre console-
removal and refitting
1
1Pull the small black knobs from the heater
control levers.
2Extract the screws from both sides of the
heater control panel, remove the panel. As the
panel is withdrawn, disconnect the leads from
the cigar lighter and take care not to damage
the fibre optics.
3From inside the glove box, prise out the lid
stop block. Insert a screwdriver in the hole left
by its removal and unscrew the console fixing
screw (photo).
Bodywork 12•9
Fig. 12.18 Components of opening side window (Sec 18)
Fig. 12.17 Position of cord for fitting
windscreen weatherseal (Sec 15)
Fig. 12.16 Peeling back lip of windscreen
glass weatherseal (Sec 15)
21.3 Removing screw (glovebox side) from
centre console20.2 Rear seat mounting hinges19.1 Front seat mounting clamp
12

Cooling system................................................................................. 8
Part A: 999 cc engine
Description
Maintenance
Thermostat - removal and refitting
Coolant pump - removal and refitting
Part B: 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
Description
Part C: 1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engines
Description
Maintenance
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling
Radiator (and cooling fan) - removal and refitting
Thermostat - removal and refitting
Coolant pump - removal and refitting
Coolant pump/alternator drivebelt - checking, renewal and
tensioning
Part D: Heater unit later models
Heater unit - removal and refitting
Heater unit - dismantling and reassembly
Fuel and exhaust systems............................................................... 9
Part A: General
Unleaded fuel
Air cleaner modified types
Fuel pump (999 cc engine) - description, removal and
refitting
Fuel tank (999 cc engine)
Part B: Carburettor models
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) - description
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) - idle speed and mixture
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) - removal and refitting
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) - overhaul
Carburettor (Weber 30/32 DMTE) - general
Carburettor (Weber 30/32 DMTE) - overhaul
Carburettor (Weber 32 ICEV 61/250 and DMTE 30/32,
DMTE 30/150) - general
Carburettor (Solex C 30/32-CIC 8) - description
Part C: Bosch LE-2 Jetronic fuel injection system
Description
Maintenance
Fuel filter - renewal
Air cleaner element - renewal
Idle speed and mixture - adjustment
Fuel injection system - electrical tests
Fuel injection system - mechanical tests
Fuel injection system components - removal and
refitting
Throttle control linkage - general
Fuel tank - general
Part D: Bosch Mono-Jetronic fuel injection system
Description
Maintenance
Fuel filter - renewal
Air cleaner element - renewal
Idle speed and mixture adjustment
Accelerator control system - check and adjustment
Fuel system - depressurisation
Fuel pump and supply - system checks
Fuel pump - removal and refitting
Injector unit - removal and refitting
Intake air temperature sensor - removal and refitting
Fuel injector - removal and refitting
Electronic control unit (ECU) - removal and refitting
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting
Catalytic converter - general information
Fuel evaporation control system - generalPart E: Bosch L3.1/2 Jetronic fuel injection systems
Description
Fuel system - depressurisation
Maintenance
Fuel filter - renewal
Air cleaner element - renewal
Checks and adjustments
Injection system components - removal and refitting
Part G: Turbocharger system
Description
Precautions
Turbocharger (1301 cc ie engine) - removal and refitting
Turbocharger (1372 cc ie engine) - removal and refitting
Intercooler - removal and refitting
Injector cooling fan - removal and refitting
Fault finding - fuel injection system
Fault finding - turbocharger system
Ignition system................................................................................. 10
General
Ignition timing (all later models)
Breakerless ignition system - description
Distributor (breakerless type) - removal and refitting
Distributor (breakerless type) - overhaul
Breakerless ignition system components - testing
Microplex ignition system - description
Distributor (Microplex) - removal and refitting
Microplex ignition system components - testing
Digiplex 2 ignition system - description
Distributor (Digiplex 2) - removal and refitting
Spark plugs and HT leads - general
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system
Clutch................................................................................................ 11
Clutch pedal adjustment (cable clutch)
Hydraulic clutch - description
Maintenance (hydraulic clutch)
Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and
refitting
Clutch operating cylinder - removal, overhaul and
refitting
Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding
Transmission.................................................................................... 12
Part A: 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
Description
Gearchange linkage - removal and refitting
Gearchange linkage (Antiskid models) - general
Final drive output shafts - description and oil seal
renewal
Part B: 1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engines
Description
Maintenance
Oil level - checking
Oil - renewal
Gearlever and linkages - general
Transmission - removal and refitting
Part C: 999 and 1108 cc with C514 type transmission
Description
Maintenance
Driveshafts........................................................................................ 13
Inboard joint boots (non-Turbo models, September 1987 on) -
modification
Intermediate driveshaft (Turbo ie models)
Inboard CV joints (Turbo ie models - overhaul
Right-hand driveshaft damper weight (1108 and 1372 cc
models) - removal and refitting
13•2 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models