1983 FIAT UNO gas type

11
Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent with MacPherson struts and coil springs
Coil springs
Free height:
903 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 mm (13.16 in)
1116 and 1301 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 mm (13.5 in)
Number of coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25
Rear suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and double-acting gas-filled
shock absorbers
Coil springs
Free height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246.5 mm (9.7 in)
Number of coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Driveshaft/hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Strut spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Strut base clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Track control arm balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Track control arm inboard mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Crossmember bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44
Rear suspension
Trailing arm bracket to body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Trailing arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Shock absorber upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Shock absorber spindle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Chapter 11 Suspension
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Fault finding - suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Front coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Front hub carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Rear coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear suspension - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Track control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Trailing arm rubber bush - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1 General description
The front suspension is of independent
MacPherson strut type.
The rear suspension consists of a beam
axle with trailing arms, coil springs and double
acting gas-filled telescopic shock absorbers.
Operations covering the hubs, roadwheels
and tyres are described in Chapter 7.
2 Maintenance
4
1Periodically check the tightness of all
suspension nuts and bolts using a torque
wrench.
2At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance” inspect all suspension rubber
bushes for deterioration or wear. Renew
where necessary.
3Check for wear in the track control arm to
hub carrier balljoint. Do this by raising the
roadwheel and prising the control arm down.
If the hub carrier is pulled outwards, any up
and down movement or slackness will
necessitate renewal of the track control arm,
although it may be possible to obtain a
balljoint repair kit from a motor factor.
4A defective strut or shock absorber can
usually be detected by the tendency of the car
to pitch badly when braking or cornering.
However the component can be tested more
thoroughly in the following way.
5Remove the strut and take off the coil
spring or withdraw the rear shock absorber as
described later in this Chapter.
6Grip the strut or shock absorber lower
mounting in the jaws of a vice and then fully
extend and contract the unit five or six times,
with the unit held in a vertical attitude. If there is
any lack of resistance, jerkiness or seizure, then
the unit will have to be renewed, no repair being
possible. It is recommended that struts orshock absorbers are renewed in pairs as axle
sets, in order to maintain similar suspension
characteristics on both sides of the car.
7Check for signs of hydraulic fluid leakage
from around the front strut spindle gland and
also the condition of the dust excluding boot.
Oil leakage will mean a new unit, a split boot
can be renewed after having withdrawn the
coil spring.
3 Front suspension strut-
removal and refitting
4
1Raise the front of the car, support it
securely and remove the roadwheel.2Release the brake hydraulic hose
from the strut by unscrewing the retaining clip
bolt.
3Unscrew and remove the two bolts from the
clamp at the bottom of the strut, push the hub
carrier down out of the clamp (photo).
4Open the bonnet. Unscrew and remove the
domed reinforcement cover. Then remove the
strut top mounting nuts from the turret. Do not
attempt to unscrew the centre spindle nut
(photos).
5Withdraw the strut downwards and out
from under the wing (photo).
6Coil spring clamps must now be fitted.
These are available from most motor stores or
can be hired (photo).
7Once the spring has been compressed to
11•2 Suspension
3.5 Withdrawing a front strut3.4B Strut upper mounting nuts
3.4A Strut reinforcement plate3.3 Strut clamp bolt
Fig. 11.1 Front suspension arrangement (Sec 1)Fig. 11.2 Rear suspension arrangement (Sec 1)

affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
5 Major body damage-
repair
5
1Major repair to the body should be left to
your Fiat dealer or specialist body repairer.
2Special jigs and alignment gauges are
required without which steering and
suspension characteristics may be incorrect
after the repairs are completed.
6 Radiator grille-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet.
2Extract the single fixing screw from the
centre of the grille slats (photo).
3Release the retaining clips and withdraw
the grille upwards from its lower spigot holes
(photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Bonnet-
removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2Pencil around the hinges on the underside
Bodywork 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes
6.3 Grille clip6.2 Grille screw

Weber 30/32 DMTE 12/150
Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1299/1301 cc
All calibration as for the Weber 30/32 DMTE 10/150 except for the following:
Primary Secondary
Accelerator pump jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 45
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.20 1.75
Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 70
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.90 0.97
Fuel injection systems
System type:
999/1108 cc ie (from 1992) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch Mono-Jetronic SPi with catalyst
1301 Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch LE2 Jetronic MPi
1372 cc ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch Mono-Jetronic SPi
1372 cc Turbo ie (up to 1992) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch L3.1 Jetronic MPi
1372 cc Turbo ie (from 1992) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch L3.2 Jetronic MPi with catalyst
Fuel pump:
All fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Electric
Fuel pressure:
999/1108/1372 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 to 1.10 bars
1301 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 bars
1372 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 bars maximum
Fuel octane rating:
Without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 RON minimum (unleaded or leaded)
With catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON minimum (unleaded only)
Idle speed:
999/1108 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm
1301 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm
1372 cc ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm
1372 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 ± 25 rpm
Exhaust gas CO at idle:
999/1108 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 0.35%
1301 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%
1372 cc Turbo ie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 to 1.8%
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pipe bolt to turbocharger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Coolant pipe union nut to turbocharger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28
Exhaust bracket nuts and bolts (999/1108 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
Exhaust manifold flange nut (1372 cc models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Exhaust manifold to crankcase bracket (1372 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head (1372 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Exhaust pipe flange-to-manifold nuts (999/1108 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Fuel pump mounting bolts (999/1108 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Fuel pump unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Fuel pressure regulator nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35
Inlet and exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts (999/1108 cc) . . . . . . 27 20
Rear exhaust pipe/silencer mounting bracket nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold-and-cylinder head nut . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Ignition system
“Breakerless” (999, 1108, 1116, 1299/1301 cc)
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Magnetic impulse generator electronic
Spark plug type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC or RC9YC
Spark plug electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm
HT lead type (999 and 1108 cc) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-20
Component testing values
Magnetic impulse generator resistance:
Models with Marelli distributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 758 to 872 ohms
Models with the Ducellier distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 to 209 ohms
Ignition coil resistance at 20ºC (68ºF):
Models with BA506A coil:
Primary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.756 to 0.924 ohms
Secondary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3330 to 4070 ohms
Models with BA506D coil:
Primary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.666 to 0.814 ohms
Secondary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2970 to 3630 ohms
13•12 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

32Fit the hot air collector plate for the air
cleaner (photo).
33Refer to Section 10 and fit the distributor.
34Bolt on the timing belt cover.
35Fit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket unless the original one is in perfect
condition.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting#
36Locate the engine in an upright position
on wooden blocks to allow for the greater
depth of the transmission flywheel housing
when it is joined to the engine.
37Make sure that the clutch driven plate has
been centralised, offer the transmission to the
engine and locate the flywheel housing on the
single stud and dowels.
38Tighten the connecting bolts to specifiedtorque, having located the lifting eye (photo).
39Bolt on the starter motor.
40Refit the cover plate to the flywheel
housing, but do not insert the lower bolts at
this stage as they retain the support bracket
for the gearchange rod.
41The engine and transmission are now
ready for refitting. The operations are a direct
reversal of the operations described earlier,
but observe the following points.
42Have the engine/transmission perfectly
horizontal and suspended on the hoist.
43Lower it into position very slowly until it is
possible to engage the driveshaft inboard
joints with the transmission.
44Continue lowering until the driveshafts
can be fully engaged and the mountings
reconnected. Remove the hoist.
45Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque. Note the method shown for
connecting the gearchange rod ball socket
using pliers (photo).
46Refill the engine with oil and coolant and
replenish the transmission oil.
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
47Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45.
6 Engine-
1301 cc Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1This engine is similar in design to the
1301 cc engine described in Chapter 1, but
the fuel and ignition systems are different, and
a turbocharger, oil cooler and intercooler are
fitted.
2Many dimensions and tolerances have
been altered for this engine, and reference
should be made to the Specifications at the
beginning of this Supplement.
3Operations which differ from those
described in Chapter 1 are given in the
following sub-Sections.
Lubrication system - description
4The lubrication system differs from the
non-Turbo 1301 cc engine in the following
respects.
5An oil cooler is fitted, which comprises a
matrix with inlet and outlet hoses connected
to the oil filter cartridge mounting base.
6A thermostatic control switch is fitted,
which diverts the oil flow through the matrix
only at oil temperatures above 84ºC (183ºF).
Note that a faulty switch will require renewal
of the complete oil filter mounting base.
7Special oil spray nozzles are located in the
crankcase main bearing webs, to cool the
underside of the pistons.
8The ball-type valves in the nozzles open
when the engine oil pressure reaches 1.2 bars
(17.4 lbf/in
2).
9An oil pressure sender unit is screwed into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•33
5D.45 Connecting ball socket type
gearchange rod5D.38 Lifting eye on flywheel housing
flange5D.32 Air cleaner hot air collector plate
Fig. 13.10 Cutaway view of the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
13

separately, after the ten main bolts (see
Fig. 13.13).
Piston rings
14The piston rings comprise two
compression rings marked TOP, and an oil
control ring.
15Cross-sections and fitting details are
shown in Fig. 13.14.
Engine mountings - renewal
16The operations are essentially as
described in Section 33 of Chapter 1, but note
the design and fixings of the individual
mountings used on the turbocharged engine
(photos).
Timing belt - renewal#
17The operations described in Chapter 1,
Section 28 generally apply, but the following
differences should be noted.18Remove the engine compartment
right-hand shield. This is secured by plastic
clips. To remove a clip, push out its centre
pin.
19The TDC sensor must be unbolted to
provide room to remove and refit the timing
belt, which can be carried out without
having to remove the crankshaft pulley
(photos).
20The belt tensioner on later versions
does not incorporate a spring, but is of
eccentric centre bolt hole type. Have the
pulley bolt released, and tension the belt by
turning the pulley using a pin wrench or
circlip pliers in the two holes provided.
Keep the tension applied while the lockbolt
is tightened. Turn the crankshaft through
two complete turns, and then check the belt
tension. With moderate finger and thumb
pressure, the belt should just twist through90º when gripped at the mid-point of its
longest run (photo). Note: This procedure
serves only as a rough guide to setting the
belt tension - having it checked by a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity is
recommended.
Oil pump drivegear cover plate
21Due to the fact that the distributor is
driven from the end of the camshaft, the oil
pump gear does not have an extension to
drive the distributor, which would be the case
if it was mounted on the crankcase.
22The crankcase aperture is therefore
covered by a plate and gasket, together with a
wiring clip (photo).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•35
6B.13 Two of the four additional cylinder
head bolts (arrowed)
Fig. 13.14 Piston ring arrangement on the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6B)Fig. 13.13 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 6B)
6B.22 Distributor drive hole cover plate
(arrowed)6B.20 Belt tensioner pulley locknut
(arrowed)6B.19B Removing the timing belt
6B.19A Removing the TDC sensor6B.16B Engine/transmission right-hand
mounting6B.16A Engine/transmission centre
mounting
13

Initial start-up after major
overhaul
28Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45, but note
that an oil pressure gauge is fitted to indicate
oil pressure.
29Check the ignition static timing as
described in Section 10.
30Check the engine idle speed and CO level
as described in Section 9.
7 Engine-
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1The 1372 cc engine is similar in design to
the OHC engine fitted to the FIAT Tipo
variants. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line,
overhead camshaft type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle.
2The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to the rear (flywheel
end) main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
3The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. The pistons are attached to
the connecting rods by fully-floating gudgeon
pins which are secured by circlips. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
4The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the valves via bucket and shim
type cam followers. The camshaft is located in
a separate housing on top of the cylinder
head.
5The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by double valve springs, and operate
in guides pressed into the cylinder head.
6The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the oil pump.
7Lubrication is by means of a gear type
pump which draws oil through a strainer
located in the sump, and forces it through a
full-flow filter into the engine oil galleries fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft,
camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end
bearings are supplied with oil via internal
drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of
the pistons are cooled by oil spray nozzles
located in each main bearing location in the
crankcase.
8A crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn via an oil separator into the air cleaner,
from where they are drawn into the inlet
manifold and re-burnt with fresh air/fuel
mixture.
9The 1372 cc ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
Mono-Jetronic single point fuel injection (SPi)
system. Whilst the higher performance
1372 cc Turbo ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
L3.1 (L3.2 from 1992) Jetronic multi-point
injection (MPi) system and turbocharger with
intercooler and oil cooling. The L3.2 system
models are fitted with catalytic converters.
Maintenanceª
10At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this Manual, carry out the following tasks.
11Check the engine oil level as follows. With
the vehicle parked on level ground, and with
the engine having been stopped for a few
minutes, withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it
on a clean rag, and re-insert it fully. Withdraw
the dipstick again and read off the oil level
relative to the MAX and MIN marks. The oil
level should be between the marks. If the level
is at or below the MIN mark, top up through
the filler on the camshaft cover without delay
(photo). The quantity of oil required to raise
the level from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is
approximately 1.0 litre (1.8 pints). Do not
overfill.
12Renew the engine oil and filter as
described in Section 2 of Chapter 1 (photos).
13Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances as described in Part B of this
Section.
14Inspect the engine for signs of oil, coolant
or fuel leaks and rectify as necessary.
15Inspect the crankcase ventilation hose for
blockage or damage. Clean or renew as
necessary.
16Check the condition and tension of thetiming belt as described in Part B of this
Section.
17Renew the timing belt as described in
Part B of this Section.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment#
1It is important to ensure that the valve
clearances are set correctly, as incorrect
clearances will result in incorrect valve timing
thus affecting engine performance.
2The clearances must be checked and
adjusted with the engine cold.
3On the ie engine, refer to Section 9 in this
Chapter for details and remove the air cleaner
unit.
4On the ie engine disconnect the crankcase
ventilation hose from the injector unit and
position the hose out of the way.
5On Turbo ie engines, loosen off the clips
and remove the air hose to the inlet manifold
(above the camshaft cover).
6On Turbo ie engines, disconnect the
accelerator cable from the throttle housing
and the support bracket on the camshaft
cover.
7Unscrew the securing nuts and washers
and remove the camshaft cover, noting that
on later models two of the nuts also secure
the hose clip assembly. Recover the gasket.
8Numbering from the front (timing belt) end
of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 4, 5
and 8, and the inlet valves are 2, 3, 6 and 7.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•37
7A.12B Engine oil filter removal using a
strap wrench - 1372 cc engine7A.12A Engine sump drain plug - 1372 cc
engine7A.11 Topping up the engine oil level -
1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.15 Engine oil level dipstick location
and level markings on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7A)
13

Coolant pump -
removal and refitting#
11The coolant pump is located on the
crankshaft pulley end of the engine and is
driven by the timing belt.
12The pump cannot be repaired and must
be regarded as disposable.
13Drain the cooling system.
14Remove the timing belt cover and then set
No. 1 piston to TDC. To achieve this, turn the
crankshaft pulley bolt until the camshaft
sprocket timing mark is aligned with the one
on the cylinder head.
15Release the belt tensioner and slip the
timing belt off the camshaft and coolant pump
sprockets.
16Unbolt and remove the coolant pump and
clean the mounting face of all old gasket
material.
17Apply a continuous bead of RTV silicone
sealant (instant gasket) to the mounting face
of the coolant pump and bolt it into position
(photos).
18Check that the camshaft sprocket and the
crankshaft have not been moved and fit the
timing belt to the camshaft and coolant pump
sprockets. The pump sprocket does not
require setting in any particular position
before connecting the timing belt.
19Tension the belt as described in Sec-
tion 5B of this Chapter.
20Fit the timing belt cover.
21After allowing one hour for the gasket
material to cure, refill and bleed the cooling
system.
PART B:
1301 CC TURBO IE ENGINE
Description
1The cooling system on this model has flow
and return connections to the turbocharger,
and is an essential means of cooling the
turbocharger.
2The radiator cooling fan is of two-speed
type, being controlled by a two-stage
thermostatic switch screwed into the radiator
side tank.
3According to the coolant temperature level,
the fan speed is regulated to provide the most
effective cooling.
4The remote cooling system expansion tank
is mounted in the left-hand rear corner of the
engine compartment (photo).
PART C:
1372 CC IE AND 1372 CC
TURBO IE ENGINES
Description
1The cooling system layout and components
for the 1372 cc engines is shown in
Figs. 13.29 and 13.30.
2The system on each engine operates in
essentially the same manner as that
described for the other models in Chapter 2,
but the location of components and the
coolant hose routings differ according to
model. The cooling system expansion tank
location differs according to model, being
either located on the side of the radiator ormounted separately on the side of the inner
wing panel.
3On Turbo models, the cooling system also
assists in cooling the turbocharger.
Maintenance
4The maintenance procedures are
essentially the same as those described for
the other models in Chapter 2.
Cooling system - draining,
flushing and refillingÁ
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come into contact
with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its
sweet smell. Antifreeze is fatal if ingested.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Working inside the vehicle, turn the heater
temperature control knob fully to the right,
which will fully open the heater coolant valve.
7With the expansion tank cap removed,
place a suitable container beneath the
radiator bottom hose.
8Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose
away from the radiator outlet (photo). Allow
the coolant to drain into the container.
9Reposition the container under the front of
the cylinder block, and unscrew the cylinder
block drain plug (photo). Allow the coolant to
drain into the container.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•55
8A.17B Tightening the coolant pump bolts8A.17A Fitting the coolant pump to the
999 cc engineFig. 13.28 Sectional view of the coolant
pump on the 999 and 1108 cc engines
(Sec 8A)
8C.9 Cylinder block drain plug8C.8 Bottom hose connection to the
radiator8B.4 Topping up the expansion tank with
antifreeze on the 1301 cc engine
13