1969 FORD MUSTANG tire pressure

03-01-03
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-03

4.
Connect a tachometer, start the

engine and operate it at idle speed

until the reservoir fluid temperature

reaches 165 to 175. This temperature

must be maintained throughout the

test. Valve B may be partially closed

to create a back pressure up to 350

psi to hasten the temperature rise. The

reservoir fluid must be at the proper

level.

5.
With the engine operating at rec-

ommended idle rpm and fluid temper-

ature noted in Step 4, close the manu-

al valve B. The minimum acceptable

pressure reading is 620 psi.

6. If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

7.
If the reading is at or above the

minimum specification, the pump flow

is normal. Open manual valve B and

proceed to the Pump Fluid Pressure

Test.

PUMP FLUID

PRESSURE TEST

1.
Keep the lines and tools con-

nected as in the Pump Flow Test.

2.
With manual valves A and B

opened fully, operate the engine at

recommended idle speed (Fig. 2).

Close manual valve A, then manual

valve B. Do not keep both valves

closed for more than 5 seconds as this

would abnormally increase the fluid

temperature and cause undue pump

and/or gear wear.

3.
With the valves fully closed, the

pressure gauge should read 1000 psi

minimum for Ford, Mercury, Meteor

or Thunderbird and 750 psi minimum

for Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Monte-

go or Mustang.

4.
If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

5.
If the pressure gauge reading is

at or above the minimum specifica-

tions,
the pump is normal and the

power steering gear or power assist

control valve is at fault.

FLUID PRESSURE TEST-

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pressure testing gauge set, tool

T56L-33610-D, requires modification

to make it adaptable for installation

in the power steering hydraulic sys-

tem. The parts required and the modi-

fication procedure are as follows:
OWER STEERING

PRESSURE LINE

INVERTED FLARE

CONNECTOR

%* TUBE x VA" PIPE

FLARED FEMALE COUPW

%' TUBE x VA" PIPE

G1544.A

FIG. 3—Modified Pressure Gauge

Assembly

a. Power Steering Pressure Line

(refer to the appropriate Parts Catal-

og).

b.
Inverted Flare Connector (3/8

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

c. Inverted Flare Connector (5/16

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

d. Flared Tube Female Coupling

(3/8 inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

The connectors and the coupling are

standard-type fittings and can be pur-

chased locally.

e. To modify tool T56L-33610-D,

remove the hose from the hand shut-

off valve block. Install the 3/8 inch x

1/4 inch inverted flare connector in

the valve block, and assemble the

pressure line to the connector (Fig. 3).

Assemble the 3/8 x 1/4 inch coupling

and the 5/16-inch connector to the

free end of the hose leading to the.

pressure gauge.

1.
To check the pump pressure, dis-

connect the front and rear sections of

the pressure line over the number 6

cylinder. Connect the modified pres-

sure-testing gauge assembly, tool

T56L-3361O-D, between the two sec-

tions.

2.
Make sure the hand-valve at the

gauge is fully opened. Start the engine

and cycle the steering gear from stop

to stop to warm up the fluid. Check

the fluid level in the reservoir and add

fluid, if necessary.

3.
Turn the steering wheel to the

full right and full left turn positions

and observe the gauge readings.

Hold the wheels in this position

only long enough to obtain an accu-

rate reading. Do not exceed 5 seconds.

The gauge should read between

1120 and 1250 psi. If the pressure is
less than 1120 psi, close the valve at

the gauge and note the pump pressure.

If it is low with the valve closed, it in-

dicates that the pump is not operating

properly. If the pressure goes up with

the valve closed, it indicates that the

low pressure in the system must be

due to internal leakage in the power

unit, providing all connections are

tight.

4.
Remove the pressure testing

gauge set, and connect the pressure

line at the steering gear. Fill and bleed

the system.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

CHECKS

Do not attempt to check and adjust

front wheel alignment without first

making a preliminary inspection of

the front-end parts. Refer to Section

3.

Check all the factors of front wheel

alignment except the turning angle

before making any adjustments. The

turning angle should be checked only

after caster, camber, and toe-in have

been adjusted to specifications.

The front wheel alignment specifica-

tions given in Part 3-13, are correct

only when the vehicle is at curb load.

Before checking or adjusting the

alignment factors, the suspension

alignment spacers must be installed to

obtain the curb Height.

EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Equipment used for front wheel

alignment inspection must be accu-

rate.
Whenever possible, front wheel

alignment checks should be performed

on stationary wheel aligning equip-

Too/
- T65P3000-A or S

FIG. 4—Typical Front Alignment

Spacer Installation—Cougar,

Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego,
Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-01-08
Suspension
—
Steering,
Wheels
And
Tires
—
General Service

03-01-08

3.
Remove the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt.

4.
With a clean punch or like in-

strument, clean out or push inward

the loose lubricant in the filler plug

hole and cover to housing attaching

bolt hole.
5.
Slowly turn the steering wheel to

the left stop, lubricant should rise

within the lower cover bolt hole; then

slowly turn the steering wheel to the

right stop, lubricant should rise within

the filler plug hole. If lubricant does

not rise in both the cover bolt hole
and the filler plug hole, add lubricant

until it comes out both holes during

this check.

6. Install the lower (upper on

Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-

housing attaching bolt and the filler

plug.

CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION

FRONT
END
GENERAL

INSPECTION

Do not check and adjust front

wheel alignment without first making

the following inspection for front-end

damage, or wear.

1.
Check for specified air pressures

in all four tires.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle off

the floor. Shake each front wheel

grasping the upper and lower surfaces

of the tire. Check the front suspension

ball joints and mountings for loose-

ness,
wear, and damage. Check the

brake backing plate mountings. Tor-

que all loose nuts and bolts to specifi-

cation. Replace all worn parts as out-

lined in Part 3-2.

3.
Check the steering gear mount-

ings and all steering linkage connec-

tions for looseness. Torque all mount-

ings to specifications. If any of the

linkage is worn or bent, replace the

parts as outlined in Part 3-5.

4.
Check the front wheel bearings.

If any in-and-out free play is noticed,

adjust the bearings to specifications.

Replace worn or damaged bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

5.
Spin each front wheel with a

wheel spinner, and check and balance

each wheel as required.

6. Check the action of the shock

absorbers. If the shock absorbers are

not in good condition, the vehicle may

not settle in a normal, level position,

and front wheel alignment may be af-

fected.

WHEEL INSPECTION

Wheel hub nuts should be inspected

and tightened to specification at pre-

delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may

cause shimmy and vibration. Elongat-

ed stud holes in the wheels may also

result from loose hub nuts.

Keep the wheels and hubs clean.

Stones wedged between the wheel and

drum and lumps of mud or grease can

unbalance a wheel and tire.
Check for damage that would affect

the runout of the wheels. Wobble or

shimmy caused by a damaged wheel

will eventually damage the wheel bear-

ings.
Inspect the wheel rims for dents

that could permit air to leak from the

tires.

UPPER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury,
Meteor,

Thunderbird,

Lincoln Continental
and

Continental Mark
III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place floor

jacks beneath the lower arms.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the upper end of the

spindle and the upper arm.

4.
Any movement between the

upper end of the spindle and the upper

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the upper ball joint.

During
the
foregoing
check,
the

lower ball joint will
be
unloaded
and

may
move.
Disregard
all
such
move-

ment
of the
lower ball
joint.
Also,
do

not mistake loose wheel bearings
for a

worn ball
joint.

Cougar,
Fairlane,
Falcon,

Montego
and
Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position as

shown in Fig. 18. This will unload the

upper ball joint.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as de-

scribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

upper arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the upper arm ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom, and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 18). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F
1500-A

FIG.
T8—Measuring Upper Ball

Joint Radial Play

MAXIMUM TOLERANCE

F14
35-A

FIG.
79—Measuring Lower Ball

Joint Radial Playprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-11

3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam

ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-

ing in the pressure plate for wear or

scoring. If damaged, replacement of

the pump (less housing) is required.

4.
Make sure the inner faces of the

cover and the housing are free of

paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid

passages for restrictions.

5.
Inspect the valving surfaces

(areas where the rotor and rollers con-

tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the

pressure plate or the cover if worn or

scored. Inspect the bushing in the

pressure plate for wear or scoring, and

replace the plate if necessary.

6. Inspect the control valve for

scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-

place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-

assemble the valve. Check the valve

for free movement in the housing

bore.

7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-

ing. If damaged, remove it with an

E-Z-Out and install a new seat.

SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS

All vehicles are equipped with hy-

draulic shock absorbers of the direct-

acting type and are nonadjustable and

nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,

check the action of the shock absor-

bers as follows:

ON VEHICLE TESTS

1.
Check the shock absorber to be

sure it is securely and properly in-

stalled. Check the shock absorber in-

sulators for damage and wear.

Replace any defective insulators and

tighten attachments to the specified

torque (on a shock absorber which in-

corporates integral insulators, replace

the shock absorbers).

2.
Inspect the shock absorber for

evidence of fluid leakage. A light film

of fluid is permissible. Be sure any

fluid observed is not from sources

other than the shock absorber.

Replace the shock absorber if leak-

age is severe.

3.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber. Extend and compress

the shock absorber as fast as possible,

using as much travel as possible.

Action should become smooth and

uniform throughout each stroke.

Higher resistance on extension than

on compression is a normal condition.

Faint swish noises are also normal.

Remove the shock absorber for a

bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-

bers are suspected of being weak fol-

low step 4:

4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating

shock absorber installed on the oppo-

site side of the vehicle, and compare

results of both tests. If the action is

similar, it is unlikely that either shock

absorber is defective. Reconnect both

shock absorbers.

Replace the shock absorber having

the lower resistance. Ensure that the

part number of the replacement is the

same as that of the original shock ab-

sorber. The replacement shock absor-

ber resistance will appear to be higher

than either original due to initial fric-

tion of the rod seal.

BENCH TEST

With the shock absorber right side

up (as installed in vehicle), extend it

fully. Then turn the shock absorber

upside down and fully compress it.

Repeat this procedure at least three

times to ensure that any entrapped air

has been expelled. Now place the

shock absorber right side up in a vise,

and hand stroke the shock absorber as

described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.

If action is not now smooth and uni-

form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com

03-02-08
Suspension

03-02-08

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to steering linkage compo-

nents and front suspension struts may

occur if care is not exercised when po-

sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post

hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.

Do not allow the adapters to contact

the steering linkage. If the adapters

are placed under the crossmember, a

piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)

should be placed on the hoist channel

between the adapters. This will pre-

vent the adapters from damaging the

front suspension struts.

UPPER BALL JOINT

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to

provide working space, and place a

support under the lower arm. If a

chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-

row contact pad is to be used on the

bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute

the load along the bumper by using a

steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-

tact pad to prevent damaging the

bumper.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through

each upper ball joint retaining rivet.

Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.

4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-

sion bumper.

5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

6. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.

The tools should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the lower stud nut.

7.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, with a

hammer, tap the spindle near the

upper stud to loosen the stud from the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove the ball

joint.

8. Clean the end of the arm, and

remove all burrs from the hole edges.

Check for cracks in the metal at the

holes,
and replace the arm if it is

cracked.
F1436-A

FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball

Joints—Typical

9. Attach the new ball joint to the

upper arm. Use only the specified

bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new

ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts

to specification.

10 Install the upper arm suspension

bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in

the spindle bore, and torque the at-

taching nut to specification. Install a

new cotter pin.

12.
Install the wheel and tire.

13.
Remove the safety stands, and

lower the vehicle.

14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust

caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever

any part of the front suspension has

been removed and installed, front

wheel alignment must be checked.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Position a support between the

upper arm and frame side rail as

shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the

vehicle and position safety stands.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

from the upper ball joint stud.

4.
Position the ball joint remover

tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool

should seat firmly against the ends of

both studs, and not against the lower

stud nut. It may be necessary to re-

move the lower ball joint cotter pin if

it prevents the tool from seating on

the lower stud.

5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until

both studs are under tension, and

then, with a hammer, tap the spindle

near the upper stud to loosen the stud

F 1496-A

FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-02-09
Suspension

03-02-09

WOOD BLOCK
F
1287-A

FIG. 9—Upper
Arm
Support—

Montego, Falcon
and
Fairlane

Tool-T62F-3006-A

ARM SUPPORT

LOWER BALL JOINT
SLEEVE

Too/-T57P-3006-A

F 1157-C

FIG. TO—Loosening Ball Joint

Studs
in
Spindle—Typical

from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the

stud with tool pressure alone. Raise

the stud
out of the
spindle bore.

6. Using
a
large chisel,
cut off the

three upper ball joint retaining rivets

and remove
the
ball joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Attach
the new
ball joint
to the

upper
arm. Use
only
the
specified

bolts,
nuts,
and
washers.
Do not
rivet

the
new
ball joint
to the
arm. Torque

the nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).

9. Position
the
lower ball joint stud

in
the
spindle bore,
and
torque
the at-

taching
nut to
specification. Install
a

new cotter
pin and
tighten
the nut if

necessary
to
line
up the
cotter
pin

hole.
Install
a new
cotter
pin in the

lower ball joint
if it was
removed.
1495-A

FIG. 11 —Shaft Centered
in

Arm—Typical

F 1494- A

FIG. 12—Torque Upper
Arm

Inner Shaft Bushings—Typical

10.
Lubricate
the
ball joint,
and in-

stall
the
wheel
and
tire. Torque
the

lug nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).

11.
Remove
the
safety stands,
and

lower
the
vehicle.

12.
Remove
the
support from
be-

tween
the
upper
arm and
frame.

13.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in.

UPPER ARM SHAFT AND/OR

BUSHING REPLACEMENT

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

1.
Remove
the
shock absorber
and

upper mounting bracket
as an
assem-

bly.

2.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist,
in-

stall safety stands,
and
remove
the

wheel cover
or hub cap.

3.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the

hub;
then, remove
the
cotter
pin, nut

lock, adjusting
nut and
outer bearing

from
the hub.

4.
Pull
the
wheel, tire,
and the hub

and drum
off the
spindle
as an
assem-

bly.
5.
Install
the
spring compressor

tool (Figs.
20, 21 and 22).

6. Remove
2
upper arm-to-spring

tower attaching nuts
and
swing
the

upper
arm
outboard from
the
spring

tower.

7.
Rotate
the
inner shaft
so
that
the

studs
can be
removed. Remove
the

studs with
a
soft mallet.

8. Unscrew
the
bushings from
the

shaft
and
suspension
arm;
then,
re-

move
the
shaft from
the arm.

9. Position
the
shaft
in the. arm,

apply grease
to the new
bushings
and

O-rings,
and
install
the
bushings loose

on
the
shaft
and
arm. Turn
the
bush-

ings
so
that
the
shaft
is
exactly
cen-

tered.
The
shaft will
be
properly
cen-

tered when dimensions
A and B in

Fig.
11 are
equal.

10.
Fabricate
a
spacer from
a sec-

tion
of
3/4-inch diameter pipe
or

metal
of
comparable size
and

strength.
The
spacer should
be 6

15/16 inches long.

11.
Position
the
spacer parallel with

the inner shaft,
and
force
the
spacer

between
the
flanges
of the
upper
arm

(Fig.
12).

If
the
spacer cannot
be
forced
be-

tween
the arm
flanges due
to
excessive

distortion, replace
the
upper
arm as-

sembly.

12.
With
the
spacer positioned
in

the
arm,
torque
the
bushings
to
speci-

fication. Move
the arm on the
shaft
to

be sure that
no
binding exists, then
re-

move
the
spacer.

13.
Attach
the
suspension upper

arm
to the
underbody. Release
the

front spring.

14.
Remove
the
spring compressor

and position
the
wheel, tire,
and hub

and drum
on the
spindle.

15.
Install
the
bearing, washer,
ad-

justing
nut and nut
lock. Adjust
the

wheel bearing
as
outlined
in
Part
3-12

and install
the
cotter
pin,
grease
cap

and
hub cap or
wheel cover.

16.
Lower
the
vehicle
and
install

the shock absorber
and
upper mount-

ing bracket.

17.
Check caster, camber,
and toe-

in,
and
adjust
as
necessary (Part 3-1).

LOWER BALL JOINT

REPLACEMENT-

ARM
IN
VEHICLE

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

1.
Raise
the
vehicle high enough
to

provide working space, leaving
theprocarmanuals.com

03-02-10
Suspension

03-02-10

lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring

tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a

jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is

to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the

car, distribute
the
load along
the

bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4

inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-

vent damaging
the
bumper.

2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the

arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-

pletely through each rivet. Then drill

off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot

hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive

out both rivets.

3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand

under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the

vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the

coil spring tension.

4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.

5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,

and position
the
tool.
The
tool should

seat firmly against
the end of
both

studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud

nut.

6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball

joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint

to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-

taching
nut
finger-tight.

9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower

arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and

nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to

the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.

10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut

to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-

ter
pin.

11.
Remove
the
jack.

12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever

any part
of the
front suspension
has

been removed
and
installed, front

wheel alignment must
be
checked.

BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the

lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint

is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-

placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts

supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM

T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A

FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint

Stud

Lower
Arm

1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-

port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the

lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from

the
hub.

3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that

attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-

move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and

wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent

damage
to the
brake hose.

4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and

gasket from
the
spindle.

6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13.
The
tool should seat firmly against

the ends
of
both studs,
and not

against
the
lower stud
nut.

8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring

pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand

under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-

caution.

10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball

joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and

spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball

stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised

position.

11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet

heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-

ing portion
of the
rivets from
the

holes,
and
remove
the
joint.

12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the

nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the

joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-

ified lubricant.

13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while

guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.

Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to

specification. Continue
to
tighten
the

nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-

stall
the
cotter
pin.

14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on

the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching

bolts
to
specifications.

15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the

spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.

16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle

and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to

specifications. Check
for the
correct

flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).

17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-

que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and

lower
the
vehicle.

Upper
Arm

1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end

of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.

Place
a
support stand under
the
side

rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.

3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13).
The
tool should seat firmly

against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and

not against
the
upper stud
nut.

5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the

ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the

upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-

body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake

hose.

7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining

nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.

8. Install
the new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
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