1953 JEEP DJ tire size

B
LUBRICATION B-3.
SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

Perform
the following operations at the mileage shown. Two thousand miles equals
3,200
km.

SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

OPERATION
VEHICLE
^ n>
MILEAGE
IN
THOUSANDS

6 8 10 12 24 30
Check Wheel Nut Torque*
Check
Fluid
Level
in Battery X Check
Fluid
Level
in Brake Master Cylinder0. X
Service
Cooling
System X Service Tires X

Lubricate
Distributor
Cam Lubricator (F4-134) X
Lubricate
Steering Linkage X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft
Slip
Joints ; X
Lubricate
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets................................... X Change Engine
Oil
and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (F4 134 Engine)** X
Change Engine Oil and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (V6-225 Engine)**....
Check Brake Operation and Pedal
Free
Play X Check
Clutch
Pedal
Free
Play. .... X
Check all
V-Belt
Tensions X
Check Exhaust Emission System
(If
so equipped)*** \ X
Service Positive
Crankcase
Vent
Valve
and Breather . .' X
Road Test
Including
a Check of all Instrument
Lights
and Controls X Tune-up Engine
Check Operation of
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve

Clean
Exterior of Radiator

Align
Headlights • Check Brake
Linings
,
Check Exhaust System for Leaks Replace Canister Air
Filter
(F. E. E. C. System)
Check
Axle
U-Bolt
Torque. Check Lubricaunt
Level
of Front
Axle
Universal Joints
Check Shock Absorber Mountings and Bushings Check Front and
Rear
Spring Bushings

Lubricate
Distributor
(V6-225).
Replace Spark, Plugs
Check Charging and Starting Circuits
Lubricate
Tailgate Latch, Supports and Hinges.

Lubricate
Door and
Hood
Hinge Pivots ;
Lubricate
Glove Compartment Door Latch

Lubricate
Heater Controls •

Lubricate
Windshield
Wiper and Washer Controls
Clean,
Repack and
Adjust
Wheel Bearings
Change Transmission and Transfer Lubricant. .
Replace
Dry-Type
Air Cleaner • Check Lubricant
Level
of
Differential

Lubricate
Transfer
Case
Shift
LeArer
Control
C«se.
. , . . . . . . . .
Continuing
each
2,000 miles

Continuing
each
6,000 miles

Continuing
each
24,000 miles

X
Continuing
each
30,000 miles
•Check after the
first
200 miles [320
km.
J
of operation.
If
wheel or wheels are changed for any
reason,
have
wheel nut torque rechecked after an additional two hundred miles of operation
••Service mileage shown or every 60 days, whichever occurs
first.

•••Maintenance check on emission system must be performed per
information
in this manual. "See text for brakes.

"Nj
^Miles
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Kilometers

3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400 48,000

B-9.
Engine Oil

For
maximum
engine
protection under all driving conditions encountered during the recommended

oil
change intervals, it is necessary to use only

"MS"
certified
sequence-tested
oils. The term
"MS"
must appear on the oil container singly or

in
conjunction with other designations. "MS" des­
ignated oils are heavy-duty detergent oils that are
formulated to withstand all service conditions in
modern powerplants. Engine oils designated only
as
"ML"
and/or
"MM"
are not recommended and should not be used except in an emergency when

"MS"
oil is not available. Certified
sequence-tested

engine
oils are described on their containers by

such
phrases as:
meets,
exceeds,
excels, or has
proven superior in the
test
requirements,
test
sequences, MS Service
tests,
standards, and service

requirements,
of automotive manufacturers, auto­
makers,
or car manufacturers for MS service or
Service
MS.
It
may be necessary to change
engine
oil more
frequently than normally recommended, depending upon the type and quality of oil used, the severity
of operation conditions, if the
engine
is used for
short
periods in cold weather, or if the
engine
is allowed to idle for excessive periods.

Always
drain
the crankcase while the
engine
is hot since
dirt
and contaminants are then more
likely
to be held in suspension and therefore
will

drain
out more completely.
Drain
the crankcase as follows:

a.
Position the
drain
receptacle under the
drain

plug.

b.
Remove the
drain
plug using the correct size

wrench.
Be careful of hot oil.
c.
Carefully
clean the
drain
plug. Inspect and

replace
the gasket, if deteriorated.
d.
When the oil has drained, replace and tighten
the crankcase
drain
plug. 12

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
straight
in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly

with
a hammer until it
bottoms.

d.
When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the
bolts
evenly in each cap to
pull
it into place
without bending the
dowels
or distorting the
bearing
cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspec­ tion
and
possible
repair,
but which are directly
related
to other
engine
components (such as tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and

oil
pump) are covered later in this section.

D-35.
Cylinder
Bores

The
cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or
reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect
crank­

shaft
journals
and other
engine
parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.

Both
honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done
carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use

a
finishing
hone
to remove the glaze. Reboring the cylinders must not be attempted unless ade­
quate facilities and experienced service technicians
are
available. The amount of material to be re­moved is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426
mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available
in the following oversizes.
.010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .040" [1,016 mm.}

The
largest cylinder bore
will
determine the over­
size to which all cylinders must be rebored, since the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper
engine
balance. The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from

standard.
Measure
the cylinder diameters by making mea­
surements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft
over entire piston travel and at
bottom

of cylinder. Proceed as follows:

a.
If bores are scored; if out-of-round
exceeds
.005
"
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";

or
if taper
exceeds
.005
"
on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring
and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.

Note:
If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381
mm.] for final honing.

All
cylinder bore diameters must be within .002
"
[0,0508
mm.] after reconditioning.

b.
If bore measurements are within the above

limits,
but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders should be honed with 250 grit
stone
hone. Pump
hone
up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched

pattern
approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit
stone

hone
or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
hone
or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched

pattern
previously mentioned.

d.
Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls,
wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply
a light coat of
engine
oil. If cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.

D-36.
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two com­ pression rings and one oil control
ring.
The pistons have an extra
groove
above the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulating
groove
to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring
groove

with
hard
carbon. The piston pin is secured by the lock screw.

The
pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the
engine
as assemblies. If cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings
will
have to be in­

stalled.

Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control
ring,
and the oil control ring expander from each piston. Do not remove the
bolts
from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the
bolts
are damaged.
Clamp
each connecting rod and piston assembly

in
a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin

lock
screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod.
Clean
all
carbon,
gum, and lacquer
deposits
from both the

inner
and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting

rod,
and piston pin. Use a ring
groove
cleaner or a
broken
ring filed to a sharp square
edge
to clean
the carbon from the piston ring
grooves
and the

insulator
groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the
grooves
or make
burrs
on ring
groove
surfaces. Run a length of wire through the

oil
spray
hole
near the lower end of the connecting

rod
to clear the
hole
of hardened oil
deposits
or
foreign matter.
Carefully
inspect the pistons and
replace
any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or
rounded on the
edges;
or if the piston is scored,

scratched,
or burned so seriously that the imperfec­
tions cannot be removed with a hand honing
stone

or
crocus cloth.

Replace
the pistons as follows:

a.
After cylinder bores have been carefully checked for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70
°F.
[21°C]
by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale

Tool
No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762
mm.] thickness
gauge
%" [19 mm.] wide.

The
piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The
gauge
must extend the
full
length of the piston on the thrust side
(opposite

side from slot in piston
skirt).
Scale should register
5
to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.]
pull
to remove the
thickness
gauge
from
between
cylinder
wall
and piston. Excessive
pull
indicates need for a slightly

smaller
piston or additional honing of cylinder. In­ sufficient
pull
indicates need for fitting a larger piston. 47

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12713

FIG.
Dl-11—MEASURING
TELESCOPE GAUGE
1—
Telescope
Gauge
2—
Micrometer

may
be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder
gauge
dial
at zero and meas­
uring
across the
gauge
contact points with an out­side micrometer while the
gauge
is at same zero
setting. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-10 and Dl-11.

b.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly

scored,
but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is

usually
possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard
service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored,
it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfac­
tory
results.

c.
If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]

or
more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or

more,
it is advisable to rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and rings.

d.
Carefully
inspect the cylinder block for small

cracks
or fractures, and for porosity.
Rust
in any
cylinder
bore may indicate a leak.

e.
Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and

burrs.
With
a straight
edge
and feeler
gauge,
check
each
machined surface for distortion.

D1-37.
Cylinder Block Repair
If
one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or

worn
beyond prescribed limits, it
will
be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.

If
relatively few bores require correction, it
will

not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain
engine
balance, since
all
oversize pistons are held to the same weights as

standard-size
pistons. If conditions justify replace­
ment of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.

Standard-size
service pistons are high-limit, or

maximum
diameter; therefore, they can usually be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been
done
to correct slight scoring or excessive

clearances.
This
applies
primarily
to
engines
which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are also furnished in .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize. All

service
pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.

Caution:
Do not attempt to cut down oversize pis­

tons
to fit cylinder bores as this
will
destroy the

surface
treatment and affect the weight. The small­
est possible oversize service pistons should be used

and
the cylinder bores should be honed to size

for
proper clearance.

Before
honing or reboring cylinders, measure all new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpen­

dicular
to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston

for
the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction
in case the first piston tried is too

small.

If
wear at top of cylinder
does
not exceed .005" [0,127 mm.]
excess
diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.

If
wear or out-of-round
exceeds
these
limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the

fly
cutter type, then finish-honed.

When
reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in
final
assem­
bly.
Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the

way
of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When
boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]

undersize,
then finish hone to obtain the required

clearance.

When
honing cylinders, use clean sharp
stones
of
proper
grade for the amount of metal to be re­
moved. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer.
Dull
or dirty
stones
cut unevenly

and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse

or
medium grade
stones,
leave sufficient metal so
that all
stone
marks can be removed with the fine
stones
used to finish-hone to proper clearance.

When
finish-honing, pass the hone through the entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately 60 cycles per minute.
This
should produce the

desired
45-degree
cross hatch pattern on cylinder

walls.
A proper pattern
will
ensure maximum
ring
life and minimum oil consumption.

After
final
honing and before the piston is checked

for
fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thor­ oughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean

with
a power-driven fibre
brush.
If all traces of

abrasive
are not removed,
rapid
wear of new pistons

and
rings
will
result.

Note:
Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white

cloth,
moistened with SAE 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this
test
shows no sign of
dirt.

It
is of the greatest importance that refinished

cylinder
bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or
less out-of-round or taper.
Each
bore must have

a
smooth surface, without
stone
or cutter
marks.
After
final
honing and cleaning, each piston must be fitted individually to the bore in which it
will

be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked
with its cylinder number to assure correct

installation.
85

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

FIG.
D1-28—CLEANING
OR
ENLARGING
VALVE
GUIDE

1—Reamer
d.
Measure clearance of each valve stem in cor­
responding valve guide. For intake valves, this
clearance
should be .0012" to .0032" [0,0305 a

0,0813
mm.]. For exhaust valves, this clearance should be .0015" to .0035"
[0,0381
a
0,0889
mm.]
at top of guide and .002" to .004"
[0,051
a 0,102 mm.] at bottom of guide. If this clearance is exces­
sive, valve guides must be reamed with .004" [0,102 mm.] oversized reamer J-5830-1 and valves

replaced
by new valves with oversize stems.

Dl-63.
Cylinder
Head
and Valve
Repair
a.
If a valve stem has excessive clearance in its
guide, the guide must be reamed .004" [0,102 mm.]
oversize. Valves are available with oversize stems
to fit this valve guide diameter.

b.
Grind
valve faces or replace valves if necessary.

Valve
faces must be ground at an angle of 45 degrees. If a valve head must be ground to a
knife
edge
to obtain a true face, the valve should
be replaced.

c.
If necessary, grind valve seats at an angle of 45 degrees.
Grinding
a valve seat decreases valve
spring
pressure and increases the width of the seat.

The
nominal width of the valve seat is
[
1,59
mm.].
If a valve seat is wider than %" [1,98 mm.]
after grinding, it should be narrowed to specified

width
by the use of 20-degree and 70-degree stones.
Improper
operation of a hydraulic valve lifter may

result
if valve and seat are refinished to the extent
that the valve stem is raised more than .050" [1,27 mm.] above normal height. In this case, it
is necessary to grind off the end of the valve stetti or replace parts.

Note:
The normal height of the valve stem above
the valve spring seat surface of the head is
1.925"
[4,889 cm.].

d.
Lightly
lap the valves into seats with fine grind­
ing compound. The refacing and reseating should
leave the refinished surfaces smooth and true so that a minimum of lapping
will
be required. Ex­
cessive lapping
will
groove the valve face and pre­
vent
good
valve seating.
e. Test valve seats for concentricity with guides,
and
for proper valve seating. Coat a small segment
of the valve face lightly with Prussian blue pig­ ment.. Insert the valve stem into its guide and

turn
the valve face against the seat. If the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide, a
mark

will
be made all around the seat. If the seat is not concentric with the guide, a
mark
will
be made
on only one side of the seat.

Clean
all pigment from both valve and seat. .Next,
coat a small segment of the valve seat lightly with

Prussian
blue pigment. Again insert the valve stem into its guide and rotate the valve face against the
seat. If the valve face is concentric with the valve
stem, and if the valve is seating all the way around,
pigment
will
coat the valve face with a uniform
band
around its entire perimeter. Both of
these

tests
are necessary to prove that proper valve seat­
ing is obtained.
f. Inspect the valve springs visually for corrosion,

breaks,
and distortion.
With
a valve spring tester
check
each valve spring for proper tension. When

a
valve spring is compressed to a length of
1.640"
[4,166 cm.] (closed-valve condition), it should
have a tension of 64 lb. [29,03 kg.]. When a valve
spring
is compressed to a length of
1.260"
[3,200
cm.] (open-valve condition), it should have ten­ sion of 168 lb. [76,205 kg.]. Replace any valve
spring
which is visibly damaged or
does
not
meet

tension specifications.

Dl-64.
Valve Installation

Lubricate
valve stems with engine oil.
Install
valves, valve springs, spring retainers, and valve

retainers
on the cylinder head. Use the same equipment and reverse procedure used for removal.

Install
valve springs with closely wound coils to­

ward
the cylinder head. Refer to Fig. Dl-29.
FIG.
Dl-29—VALVE
SPRING

1—
Spring

2—
Close
Wound
Coils
Toward
Head
94

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all en­
gine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline

and
water leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers, water pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and
heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and
oil
line connections, stud bolts, spark plug threads,

and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufac­
turer's
instructions on container for proper appli­
cation procedure.

Dl-72.
Cylinder
Block
and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals

Braided
fabric seals are pressed into
grooves
of
cylinder
block and
rear
main bearing cap, to
rear

of the oil collecting groove, to seal against oil leak­ age at the crankshaft. Refer to Fig. Dl-32.

FIG.
Dl-32—INSTALLING
CRANKSHAFT REAR
OIL
SEAL

1—Neoprene
Seal
2—Fabric
Seal

A
neoprene composition (stick) seal is installed in
grooves
in the sides of the
rear
main bearing cap
to seal against leakage in the joints
between
the
cap and cylinder block. The neoprene composition
expands in the presence of oil and heat.
This
seal
is undersize when newly installed. Refer to Fig.

Dl-32.

a.
The braided fabric seal can be installed in the

cylinder
block only when the crankshaft is re­ moved; however, the seal in the cap can be replaced
whenever the cap is removed. Remove oil seal and place new seal in groove, with both ends projecting
above parting surface of cap. Force seal into
groove

by rubbing down with hammer handle or smooth
stick
until seal projects above the
groove
not more

than
[1,59 mm.]. Cut ends off flush with
sur­

face of cap, using sharp knife or razor blade.
Lubricate
the seal with heavy
engine
oil just before
installation.

Caution:
The
engine
must be operated at slow
speed when first started after new braided seal
has been installed.
b. The neoprene composition seal is slightly longer

than
the
grooves
in the bearing cap. The seal must
not be cut to length. The seals are installed after the bearing cap is installed in the block and torqued
firmly
in place. Dip the neoprene seals in kerosene
approximately IV2 minutes, then install seals into
bearing cap grooves. The protruding ends of the seals are, again, squirted with kerosene, wiped off,

and
peaned over with a hammer to be sure of a
seal
at the upper parting line
between
the cap and

cylinder
block.

Dl-73.
Main
Bearing and Crankshaft
Installation

Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.

This
procedure assumes that crankshaft main bear­
ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new crankshaft main bearings of appropriate size have been selected. If necessary, check or select
main
bearings as described in Par. Dl-41 and
Pars.

Dl-42 and Dl-43.

a.
Install
four upper main bearing halves in
seats

of cylinder block so that prong of each bearing half
fits into corresponding notch of seat. Flanged thrust
bearing must be installed in the second seat from
front of engine.
Install
a new upper crankshaft
rear
oil seal in the cylinder block as described in

Par.
Dl-72.

Caution:
Upper main bearing halves have an oil groove, while lower halves are plain. They must
not be interchanged.
b. Apply
engine
oil to upper bearing surfaces.

Install
the crankshaft so that its four journals rest

in
the upper bearing halves.
c. Seat all four lower main bearing halves in cor­
responding bearing caps.
Install
a new lower
crank­

shaft
rear
oil seal and cylinder block
rear
oil seal
described in
Par.
Dl-72, a and b.
Lubricate
all lower

main
bearing surfaces with
engine
oil. Position bear­ ing caps to cylinder block and crankcase journals.

Install
two cap bolts,
loosely,
at each cap.

d.
It is necessary to align thrust surfaces of the
second main bearing whenever it has been removed

from
the engine. To do this, pry the crankshaft

back
and forth several times, throughout its entire end travel, with cap
bolts
of second main bearing
only finger tight.
e. Tighten alternate cap
bolts
of each main bearing

cap,
a little at a time, until they have been tight­ ened to 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.
D1-74. Crankshaft End Play Check

To
measure crankshaft end play, mount a dial
indicator
on the cylinder block and index its plung­

er
to either a front or
rear
face of one crankshaft
counterweight. Pry the crankshaft to one limit
of its end travel and adjust the dial indicator to
zero. Pry the crankshaft to its
opposite
end travel

limit
and
note
end play as indicated by the dial

indicator.
Crankshaft end play tolerances are .004"
to .008" [0,102 a
0,204
mm.]. If end play is too great, it can be corrected only by replacement of
the second main (thrust) bearing.

Dl-75.
Piston and Connecting Rod
Installation

This
procedure assumes that connecting rod bear­ ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new connecting rod bearings of appropriate 96

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM H-61.
Test Nine

Operate
at a medium speed with the jumper re­ moved. Remove the regulator cover and hold the

voltage
regulator contacts closed.

a.
Voltage builds up—voltage regulator contacts
burned
or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.

Clean
the contacts and adjust the regulator as in

Par.
H-47d.

b.
Voltage
does
not build up—clean contacts and
repeat
test.
If the
voltage
still
does
not build up, see
test
10.

H-62.
Test Ten
Remove the regulator cover and hold the current
regulator contacts closed.

a.
Voltage builds up—current regulator contacts
burned
or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.

Clean
the contacts and adjust the regulator as in

Par.
H-47d.

b.
Voltage
does
not build up—clean the contacts

and
repeat the
test.
If the
voltage
still
does
not

build
up remove the regulator for an overhaul.

H-63. ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM

Most vehicles have, as standard equipment, a 35-

amp.,
12-volt, negative ground alternator and a
transistorized
voltage
regulator.
The
alternator charging circuit consists of the
battery, alternator,
voltage
regulator, ignition
switch,
and charge indicator light.

An
alternator differs from a conventional DC
shunt generator in that the armature is stationary,

and
is called the stator, while the field rotates,
and
is called the rotor.
With
the alternator con­
struction,
the higher current values involved in
the stator may be conducted to the external circuit through fixed leads and connections, rather than
through a rotating commutator and brushes, as in the DC generator.

The
alternator employs a three-phase stator
winding. The rotor consists of a field coil encased
between
six poled interleaved sections, producing

a
twelve
pole
magnetic field with alternator north

and
south poles. By rotating the rotor inside the stator, an alternating current is induced in the stator windings.
This
alternating current is
changed to direct current by
diodes
and conducted
to the output terminal of the alternator.
Six
silicon
diode
rectifiers act as electrical one-way valves.
Three
of the
diodes
have negative polarity

and
are grounded. The other three
diodes
have
positive polarity and connected to the output
terminal.
In all alternators discussed in this

manual,
the
diodes
are pressed into heat sinks.

There
are two heat sinks, one positive and the
other negative.

Since
the
diodes
have a high resistance to the
flow of
current
in one direction and a low resistance
in
the
opposite
direction, they are connected in a
manner
which allows current to flow from the
alternator to the battery in the low resistance
direction.
The high resistance in the
opposite

direction prevents the flow of current from the
battery to the alternator. Because of this feature,
no
circuit
breaker
is
required
between
the alternator
and
the battery.
Residual
magnetism in the rotor field
poles
is
negligible. Therefore the starting field current must be supplied by the battery. It is connected
to the field winding through the ignition switch

and
charge indicator lamp.
As
in the DC shunt generator, the alternator
voltage
is regulated by varying the field current.
In
these
alternator systems, this is accomplished
electronically in the transistorized
voltage
reg­
ulator.
No current regulator is required since all
alternators have self-limiting current character­
istics.

The
entire DC output of the alternator has to pass
through the isolation diode. The isolation
diode
is
not essential for rectification. Its purpose is threefold.
It
provides automatic solid
state
switch for
illumi­

nating the alternator charge
-
discharge indicator
light when the alternator is not charging properly.
It
automatically connects the
voltage
regulator to
the alternator and battery when the alternator is
operating.
It
eliminates electrical leakage across the alternator

diodes
so that leakage is negligible when the vehicle
is not in use.
The
isolation
diode
is mounted in a separate alumi­

num
heat sink. The 35-amp. alternator has a single
silicon diode. The alternator is designed to supply the electrical demands of the battery and the
accessory circuits through a wide range of
engine

speeds. The alternator is lighter and more compact

than
a conventional DC shunt generator of com­

parable
electrical size.

The
principal
components of the alternator are
the stator, the rotor, the slip ring end head, the

drive
end head, the
diode
rectifiers, and the isolation diode.

a.
The stator consists of a laminated iron core on

which
the three-phase windings are wound in
slots
around
the inside circumference. A
pair
of leads
are
connected to each of the three points of the
winding. One of each
pair
of leads connects to a
negative
diode
rectifier and one to a positive
diode
rectifier.

b.
The rotor consists of a single field coil encased

between
two six-fingered, interleaved iron sections assembled to the shaft. The two ends of the field
coil
are connected to two slip rings which are in­
sulated from each other and from the shaft.
c. The slip ring end head supports the rectifier heat sinks; a prelubricated sealed
ball
bearing, in

which
the rotor shaft rotates; and the brush holders
and
brushes.

d.
The drive end head supports a prelubricated
sealed
ball
bearing in which the drive end of the rotor shaft rotates.
e. The
diode
rectifiers are pressed in the rectifier brackets or heat sinks and are connected to the
stator leads.
f. The isolation
diode
is pressed in the aluminum heat sink mounted to the
rear
of the alternator. The
complete assembly is covered with a red insulating coating.

For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires 194

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Q
ice, provide maximum safety over all
types
of

terrain,
and furnish the medium on which the
vehicle can be maneuvered with ease. Although
there are other
elements
of tire service, inflation maintenance is the most important and in many
instances the most neglected. The tire pressure should be maintained for safe operation. An under- inflated tire is dangerous as too much flexing can
cause breakage of the casing. Overinflation in time
may
cause a blowout.

Upon
careful inspection of tires, it may be found
that improper wheel alignment, balance, grabbing
brakes,
poor driving habits, fast cornering or other
conditions are the cause of wear. Such conditions
should be corrected.

a.
UNDERINFLATION

Underinflation
distorts the normal contour of the
tire
body and the tire
bulges
or "bellies out" with

an
extreme flexing action.
This
wears the tread at the
edges
more than the center and generates
excessive internal heat, weakening the cords and
resulting
in bruises, broken cords or ply separation.

Underinflation
also leads to rim bruises as in­ sufficient resistance is provided to prevent the tire

from
being jammed against the rim and crushed
or
cut when the tire strikes a
curb,
rock, or rut.

b.
OVERINFLATION

When
a tire is
overinf
lated,
increased tension caused by excessive pressure prevents proper deflection of
the sidewalls.
This
results in wear in the center of the tread and the tire also
loses
its ability to absorb

road
shocks. Under this increased
strain,
cords in the tread area eventually snap under impact, caus­ing a casing break.

c.
MISALIGNMENT
WEAR
Excessive
wheel camber causes the tires to run at an angle to the road when camber is incorrect

it
will
cause excessive wear on one side of the
tire
tread.

Front
wheels should be straight ahead or toe-in slightly. When there is excessive toe-in or
toe-out,

tires
will
revolve with a side motion and scrape
the tread rubber off.
Front
tires
will
show wear on the outside with too great a toe-in condition
and
on the inside with a
toe-out
condition.

d.
BALANCE
Cupping
and bald spotting of tires is associated

with
wear on a vehicle driven mostly at high-way
speeds
without the recommended tire rotation and

with
unbalance conditions.

Q-12.
Tire
Care
Note;
For satisfactory 4-wheel drive operation, a
4-wheel drive vehicle
MUST
be equipped with the same size tires of equal circumference on all
four wheels. The tires must then be inflated to

proper
factory recommended pressures at all times.

Tire
pressure, tire rotation, wheel balance, and wheel alignment are the four vital factors that in­
fluence the
extent
of tire life and the
ease
and safety of vehicle control.
Four
of the most common

tire
troubles are:

a.
Excessive wear around the outer
edges
resulting

from
underinflation.

b.
Excessive wear in the center of the tread re­
sulting from overinflation.

c.
Tire
tread worn on one side indicating wheels
need realigning.
d.
Cuplike
depressions on one side of the tread

indicating
wheels need balancing.

If
the vehicle normally carries a
full
load, two to
four psi. [0,14 a 0,28 kg-m2] can be added to the
recommended air pressures. But, remember that adding air with a light load means a harsher ride,

doesn't
help tires, and wears out shock absorbers. Rotate the tires as shown in Fig. Q-9 for correct
rotation system.

Q-13.
Tire
Removal
and
Installation

To
remove a tire from a drop center rim, first
WEAR
AT SHOULDERS

WEAR
AT CENTER

WEAR
ON ONE
SIDE
FEATHERED
EDGE
BALD
SPOTS

/1TTDN

i

UNDER
INFLATION
OVER
INFLATION
EXCESSIVE
CAMBER

INCORRECT
TOE
WHEEL
UNBALANCED

liF
11

ADJUST
PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEN
TIRES ARE
COOL
ADJUST
CAMBER
TO

SPECIFICATIONS
ADJUST
FOR

TOE-IN
DYNAMIC
OR
STATIC

BALANCE
WHEELS

FIG.
Q-8—TIRE
WEAR
PATTERN
339