1953 JEEP DJ oil temperature

c

TUNE-UP
meter during this
test
Connect the red lead
tc*
dis­

tributor
primary
lead at the coil as shown in Fig.
C-21.
Connect black lead to the ground.
Turn

ignition switch on; with
engine
stopped, observe
dwell
meter. If the meter reads zero,
crank
the

engine
a fraction of a revolution to
close
the

breaker
points.

Distributor
resistance is normal, if dwell meter
pointer is within range of
black
bar. Distributor resistance is high, if
dwell
meter pointer is not

within
the black bar.
Remove test lead from
distri­
butor terminal of coil and
connect
to
each
of the
following points to determine
where
the excessive resistance is:

Distributor
primary
terminal

Distributor
primary
terminal in the distributor

Breaker
point bracket
Ground
side of points

Distributor
housing

Where
a noticeable change occurs in the meter
reading
in
these
steps, make the necessary correc­
tion and repeat the
test.

C-l 7. Distributor
Point
Dwell

Using
a dwell tester, connect red
lead
to the
distri­

butor terminal at coil. Connect black lead to
ground.
Set selector switch to the number of
cylin­

ders in the
engine
being tested. Operate
engine
speed at specified rpm. and
note
readings. Cam

dwell
angle must be 30° for the Dauntless V-6
Delco equipped engine, 29° ±: 3° Prestolite equipped
engine
and 42° for the
Hurricane
F4 engine. If the dwell reading is not to specifications,
trouble could be improper point spacing, point

rubbing,
defective block or breaker arm, or mis­
aligned and worn distributor cam.
Adjust
dwell
as shown in Fig. C-14 for the Delco equipped
Dauntless V-6 engine. For cam dwell adjustment
of the Prestolite equipped V6 and
Hurricane
F4 engine, refer to Par. C-10,
step
a.

Dwell
variation is determined by noting any
dwell
change as the
engine
is operated at different
speeds.

Excessive
variation indicates a change in point opening that can result from shaft or bushing wear,

or
from the distributor plate shifting because of

wear
or
looseness.

Measure
dwell variation at idle speed, using same

test
hookup for checking dwell. Increase speed to 1750 rpm.;
note
dwell reading.
Then
slowly reduce
speed to idle while observing dwell meter. Dwell

variation
should not exceed 3°. If dwell variation
exceeds
3°
between
idle speed and 1750 rpm.,
probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings, or

breaker
plate is indicated. Distributor should then be checked more thoroughly.

C-l8. Check Ignition Wires
and
Connections

Examine
and clean the insulation on all ignition

wires
and check all connections. Wires should be
firm,
flexible, and free from roughness and minute
cracks.
Bend wires to check for brittle,
cracked,
or

loose
insulation. Since defective insulation
will
per­

mit
crossfiring or missing of the engine, defective

wires
should be replaced.

C-l9. Test Ignition
Cables

To
remove cables from
spark
plugs, use
Spark
Plug
Cable
Remover
Tool
W-274.
Twist
the
boot

slightly to break the seal and, grasping the rubber
protector
boot,
lift straight up with a steady even

pull.
Do not grasp the cable and
jerk
the cable off; this
will
damage the cables. Do not use a probe
on
these
wires; puncturing them may cause a
separation in the conductor. To remove ignition cables from the distributor cap or coil tower,
loosen

the nipple first, then grasp the upper part of the nipple and the cable and gently
pull
straight up.

Test
the cable with an ohmmeter. Resistance value

per
foot
is
3000-7000
ohms. The ignition cables
can
be checked for
circuit
continuity by removing
the cable from the
spark
plug and holding the cable
end Vi" [6,35 mm.] from the engine. A strong

spark
indicates
good
conductor continuity.

When
connecting the cable to the
spark
plug, be
certain
a
good
connection is made and that the
protector
boot
fits tight on the
spark
plug. A
partially
seated cable creates an additional gap in
the
circuit
and the resulting
spark
jump
will
cause

terminal
corrosion and cable damage.

C-20. Coil

When
an ignition coil is suspected of being defec­ tive, it should be checked on the car. A coil may

break
down after it has reached operating tempera­
ture.
It is important that the coil be at operating
temperature when
tests
are made.

Note:
The ignition coil and ballast resistor for the

V-6
engine
must be of the same manufacturer.
Ballast
resistors and ignition coils of one manufac­

turer
are interchangeable with both units of the
other.
C-21.
Service Air
Cleaner

Refer
to Par.
B-2 2
for the correct service of the

air
cleaner.

C-22.
Check Fuel Lines and
Screens

Check
all fuel line connections to guard against
leakage.
Check
fuel pump filter F4
engine
and
fuel
line filter V-6 engine. Replace fuel filter if
necessary.

C-23. Check Fuel Pump a.
Fuel
pump pressure is important, for low pres­

sure
will
seriously affect
engine
operation and high

pressure
will
cause excessive fuel consumption and
possibly flood the carburetor. Should there be any doubt of normal operation, check the pressure with
a
gauge
as shown in Fig.
C-2 2.
The minimum and

maximum
allowable pressures are 2% to 3% lbs. [0,176 a
0,264
kg-cm2], for the
Hurricane
F4 en­
gine.
Fuel
pump pressure at carburetor (inlet) on
the Dauntless V6-225
engine
should be 3% lbs.
[0,264
kg-cm2] minimum at specified
R.P.M.
idle

with
the vapor
return
hose
squeezed off.
With
the

vapor
return
hose
open pump pressure should be
2
V2
lbs. [0,176 kg-cm2] minimum.

b.
Test for volume, as a pump may build up suffi­
cient pressure but
fail
to produce sufficient volume.
Turn
down the carburetor fuel line fitting on the
pump and with the tank line connected, pump out
30

TUNE-UP

C-29.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

POOR
FUEL ECONOMY Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted High Fuel Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage

Leaky
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level in Carburetor

Low
Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad
Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment

Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve

LACK
OF POWER
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged

Air
Cleaner Restricted Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged

Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

LOW
COMPRESSION
Leaky
Valves Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect Piston Clearance too Large

Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket

BURNED
VALVES AND SEATS Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System

Defective
Valve
Lifter
— Hydraulic
VALVES
STICKING
Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems

Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil

OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve — Dauntless V-6 Engine

POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing

Clogged
Fuel Filter Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

EXCESSIVE
OIL CONSUMPTION Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged

Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-
Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating

BEARING
FAILURE
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage

Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure

Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 34

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

D-1.
GENERAL

This
section describes service and repair of the
F4
engine. The
engine
code
number shown in Fig.
A-3
is provided to identify the four cylinder engine.
The
meaning of the coded letters and numbers that

are
stamped on the water pump boss, at the front of the cylinder block, is given below.
Letter
to
Designate
Market

M
—
Military
E
—
Export

D
— Domestic
I
—
Industrial
&
Marine

Letter
to
Designate
Engine
Letter
to
Designate
Year
Built
R
— 1969

S
— 1970

T
— 1971
U—
1972

V
— 1973

W
— 1974

Numbers
to Designate
Compression
Ratio

F
— F4-134
Engine
63
67
•

71
-
6.3 to 1

•
6.7 to 1

-
7.1 to 1

Market
-
D
S F

(Domestic)

(1970)

Engine-
EXAMPLE

123 A B S
(F4-134)

Day- "L

Compression
Ratio

(6.7)
-
Service Engine (S)
Short
Block
(R)

-.010*
Oversize Pistons

(123rd)
-.010*
Undersize
Main

and
Rod Bearings
All
disassembly and assembly procedures are
presented in logical order, assuming a complete

engine
overhaul with
engine
removed from the vehicle. However, many of
these
procedures can
also be performed as on-vehicle services if vehicle
or
engine
components are removed to gain access
to parts involved.

Note:
Some
engines
are equipped with an exhaust
emission control system. Service information on
the components of this system is given in Section

F-l.
D-2.
Description

The
Hurricane
F4-134
engine
is an F-head, four-
cyiinder
engine
of combination valve-in-head and valve-in-block construction.
Large
intake valves
mounted in the head allow
rapid,
unobstructed
flow of fuel and air to the combustion chambers through short, water-jacketed intake passages.The
intake valves are operated by push rods through

rocker
arms. The exhaust valves are mounted

in
the block with through water jacketing to provide
effective
cooling. The exhaust valves are
operated by conventional valve tappets.
The
engine
is pressure lubricated. An oil pump

driven
from the camshaft forces the lubricant
through oil channels and drilled passages in the

crankshaft
to efficiently lubricate the main and
connecting rod bearings.
Lubricant
is also force
fed to the camshaft bearings, rocker arms, timing
gears, etc.
Cylinder
walls and piston pins are

lubricated
from spurt
holes
in the "follow" side of
the connecting rods.
Circulation
of the coolant is controlled by a
thermostat in the water
outlet
elbow cast as part
of the cylinder head.

The
cylinder head assembly when installed on the

engine
consists of the inlet valve guides, inlet valves, inlet valve springs, rocker arm and shaft assemblies, spark plugs, temperature indicator
fitting, water
outlet
fitting, and other assembled

parts.
The carburetor and air cleaner assembly
bolt to the top of the cylinder head. The rocker

arm
cover is attached to the top of the head to
enclose
the inlet valve mechanism.
The
engine
is equipped with a fully counterbalanced
crankshaft
supported by three main bearings. To better control balance, the counterweights are in­
dependently forged and permanently attached to
the crankshaft with dowels and cap screws that are tack-welded.
Crankshaft
end play is adjusted by
shims placed
between
the crankshaft thrust washer

and
the shoulder on the crankshaft.
The
exhaust manifold is a separate unit. The intake
manifold is cast as an integral part of the cylinder
head and is completely water jacketed.
This
con­
struction transfers heat from the cooling system
to the intake passages and assists in vaporizing
the fuel when the
engine
is cold. Therefore, there
is no heat control valve required in the exhaust manifold. Individual exhaust ports in the cylinder
block direct
gasses
into the exhaust manifold for unobstructed flow through the exhaust system.

The
pistons have an extra
groove
directly above
the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulator.
As
is common practice with manufacturers,
some

engines
are built with oversize cylinder bores or undersize crankshaft journals. These
engines
are
considered standard as replacement parts of the

correct
sizes are supplied. Before ordering parts or
doing any work with a particular engine, it is important to check the
engine
code
number to
determine if oversize or undersize parts are re­

quired.
Definite identification is given by a letter
stamped after the
engine
code
number. See Fig.

A-5
for location. The letters used and their mean­ ings are given here:

A
— .010*
[0,254
mm.] undersize main and
connecting rod bearings.

B
— .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize pistons.

AB
—
Combination
of A and B.

S
—
Service
engine.

R
—
Short
Block.
Detailed specifications for the
Hurricane
F4
engine

are
at the end of this section.
Torque
specifications
for
engine
service are at the end of this manual in Section U. When adjustments are necessary, refer to
these
specifications so that factory clearances

are
maintained.

D-3.
Engine Mountings

The
front of the
engine
is supported by two rubber
Text continued on
page
41. 38

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
insulator
mountings attached to the frame side

rail
brackets. The
rear
of the engine-transmission
assembly is supported by a rubber insulator
mounting under the
rear
of the transmission on
the frame center cross member.
This
cross member
is bolted to the frame side
rails
so that it can be
dropped when removing the transmission or engine-

transmission
assembly. The rubber insulators allow
free side and vertical oscillation to effectively

neutralize
engine
vibration at the source.

The
rubber
insulator mountings should be inspected
for separation and deterioration by jacking the
power plant away from the frame, near the sup­
ports. Vibration cannot be effectively absorbed by
separated or worn insulators. They should be re­ placed if faulty.

D-4.
Engine
Ground
Strap

To
be sure of an
effective
ground for the electrical

circuits,
a ground strap bridges the right front

engine
support to the chassis. The connections of this strap must be kept clean and tight for proper
operation of the electrical system.

D-5. ENGINE REMOVAL

Should
the
engine
require overhauling, it is neces­

sary
to remove it from the vehicle. The following procedure covers removal of the
engine
only.

The
engine, transmission and transfer case may be
removed as a unit by removing (in addition to the following procedure) the radiator guard and the
access plates in the floor pan.

a.
Drain
the cooling system by opening the
drain
cocks at the
bottom
of the radiator and lower right
side of the cylinder block.

b.
Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal
to avoid the possibility of short
circuit.

c. Remove the air cleaner horn from the carburetor
and
disconnect the breather
hose
at the oil filler
pipe.

d.
Disconnect the carburetor choke and throttle controls by loosening the clamp
bolts
and set
screws.

e. Disconnect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at the fuel pump by unscrewing the connecting nut.
f- Plug the fuel line to prevent fuel leakage.
g. Remove the radiator and radiator grille support

rods.

h. Remove the upper and lower radiator
hoses
by
loosening the
hose
clamps and slipping the clamps
back
on the
hose.
If so equipped, remove the heater

hoses
(one to the water pump, one to the
rear
of
the cylinder head) in the same manner.

i.
Remove the four
bolts
from the fan hub and re­

move
the fan hub and fan blades.

j.
Remove the four radiator attaching screws. Re­
move
the radiator and shroud as one unit, k. Remove the starting motor cables. Remove the

starting
motor.

I.
Disconnect the wires from the alternator or
generator. Disconnect the ignition
primary
wire
at the ignition coil.
NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL, REMOVE THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTION
MANI­
FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)

VALVE.
SEE SECTION
Fl
FOR PROCEDURE.
m.
Disconnect the oil pressure and temperature
sending unit wires at the units.

n.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold by removing the stud nuts.

o.
Disconnect the
spark
plug cables at the plugs

and
remove the cable bracket from the rocker arm cover stud.

p.
Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the
attaching stud nuts.

q.
Attach a lifting bracket to the
engine
using
existing head bolt locations. Be sure the
bolts
selected
will
hold the
engine
with the weight

balanced.
Attach lifting bracket to a boom hoist,

or
other lifting device, and take up all slack,
r.
Remove the two nuts and
bolts
from each front

engine
support. Disconnect the
engine
ground strap.
Remove the
engine
supports.
Lower
the
engine
slightly to permit access to the two top
bolts
on
the flywheel housing.
s. Remove the
bolts
which attach the flywheel
housing to the engine.

t.
Pull
the
engine
forward, or
roll
the vehicle back­

wards,
until the clutch clears the flywheel housing.

Lift
the
engine
from the vehicle.

D-6. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also ap­
plicable
separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,

provided
that wherever necessary the part of the

engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by
removal
of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed

with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly

and
the oil has been drained.
In
addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the
engine
out of the vehicle,

special
instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is
done
with the
engine
installed.

During
disassembly operations, the
engine
should
be mounted in a suitable
engine
repair
stand. Where

practicable,
modify or adapt an existing repair

stand
as necessary to accommodate the engine. If

an
engine
repair stand is not used, take care to

perform
disassembly operations in a manner that

will
protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.

NOTE:
If the
engine
is being disassembled because
of possible valve failure, check the valve tappet
clearance
before disassembly. Improper valve

clearance
could be the possible cause of valve

failure,
indicating a need for more frequent valve
checks and adjustments. 41

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-7—PISTON
FITTING
b.
Check
and if necessary correct connecting rod
alignment using a connecting rod aligning fixture,

such
as the one shown in Fig. D-8, in accordance
with
the instructions furnished with the fixture.

c.
Check
the piston pin fit. The piston pins are fitted
with
a clearance of .0001" to .0003" [0,0025

a
0,0076
mm.] which approximates a light thumb
push
fit at room temperature. See Fig. D-9. The piston pins are anchored in the rods with lock

screws.
Installation of oversize pins in this
engine

is not recommended as experience has shown that
should a pin be worn sufficiently to require replace­ ment, the piston should also be replaced.

Clamp
the connecting rod in a vise using
jaw
shields
of
soft
metal or two pieces of hardwood, one on
each side of the rod and positioned approximately
3" [76 mm.] from the piston pin end.
Start
,
.. . | 10278 j

FIG.
D-8—CHECKING
CONNECTING
ROD
ALIGNMENT
1
—Feeler
Gauge
2—Fixture
FIG.
D-9—PISTON PIN
FITTING

the piston pin in the piston with the lock

screw
groove
facing down. Assemble piston to connecting rod with the piston
skirt
T-slot on
FIG.
D-10—CONNECTING ROD AND
PISTON

1—
Oil
Spray
Hole

2—
Piston
Skirt
T-slot

3—
Relative
Position
of
Camshaft

48

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.

i.
Check
carburetor
adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head gaskets and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800

a
960 km.] of normal operation.

k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.

I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107.
VALVE
ADJUSTMENT

Proper
valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning
of valves and poor
engine
performance.

This
adjustment consists of obtaining a specified

lash
in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should be adjusted to the proper clearance with the
engine

cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE

OPENS

9°
BTC?

FIG.
D-43-
10270

-VALVE
TIMING
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure

The
exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as neces­
sary
to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is .016" [0,406 mm.]
between
the end of the adjusting
screw and the
bottom
of the exhaust valve.

Crank
the
engine
over to
close
a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler
gauge.
To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and
turn
the adjusting

screw,
with the other.
Check
and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.

Adjust
each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm
screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457 mm.] clearance
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109.
Check
Valve
Timing

To
check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to .026"
[0,6604
mm.]
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake stroke. The intake valve
opens
9° before top center
(BTC).
Note
the distance
between
the
"TC"
and
"5°"
marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See
Fig.
D-43.
With
the crankshaft in this position, timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct

running
clearance.
D-110. Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation

Be
sure there are no air leaks at the tube connec­
tions
between
the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,

and
that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in
good

condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the
engine
or grinding valves, remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If
the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system
will
not operate and, should the valve

fail
to seat, it
will
be impossible to make the
engine

idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
D-111. Oil
Filter

The
engine
is equipped with a throw-away type

oil
filter.
This
oil filter must be serviced periodi­
cally
as outlined in the
Lubrication
Section. 69

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level

in
Carburetor

Low
Compression Valves Sticking

Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe

Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points

Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points

Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap

Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation

Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings

Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham­
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close

Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70