1953 JEEP DJ ABS

m

REAR AXLE
c. Attach the brake line
hose
at tee fitting on top
of housing.

d.
Attach parking brake cables at rear of brake
backing plate. DJ
models
only.
e. Connect the shock absorbers at the axle mount­
ing pads.
f. Connect the propeller shaft at the rear universal
joint.
g. Adjust and bleed brakes. (See Section P).

h.
Install
wheels
and lower vehicle to floor.
i.
Check parking brake as described in Section P.

j.
Fill
the axle housing with the proper lubricant.

For
correct lubricant refer to the
Lubrication
Chart.

N-34.
TROUBLE
SHOOTING

The
following problems can be present with either the conventional differential,
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-
Lok
differential.
N-35. Backlash

Excessive
backlash in the vehicle drive line may be the results of
excessive
backlash in the trans­
mission, propeller shaft spline, universal joint, ring gear and pinion, the axle shaft spline, or the dif­
ferential.
Excessive
backlash in the differential may be meas­

ured
as follows:
a.
Jack
up one rear wheel.
b. Put the transmission in gear.
c. Measure the travel of the jacked-up wheel on
a
10"
[25,40
cm.] radius from the wheel center.

This
total
movement
should not
exceed
IVi" [3,17 cm.] in a new unit. In order to restrict the

backlash
to the axles only, make sure that the
yoke of the propeller shaft
does
not
move
during
the check.

d.
If all causes of backlash mentioned
above
have

been
eliminated with the exception of the differen­

tial
and that still
exceeds
the maximum allowable
movement, overhaul the differential.
N-36.
Rear
Wheel
Noise

Looseness of the rear axle shaft nut on semifloat- ing tapered rear axles may produce a clicking or
creaking
noise.
This
noise
can usually be
stopped

by torquing the wheel hub nut 150 to 175 lb-ft. [20,7 a 24,2 kg-m.]. If the condition has continued
for
some
time, slight wear may have resulted allow­
ing the
noise
to persist. In this case, coat the hub,
key, and keyway on tapered axle shafts with white
lead and torque the nut as specified. If the
noise
persists after this treatment, replace the worn parts.

N-37.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Axle
Noisy on Pull and
Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . . . Adjust

End
Play Pinion Shaft Adjust

Worn
Pinion Shaft Bearing Adjust
Pinion
Set too Deep in Bevel
Gear
too Tight..... Adjust

Wrong
Lubricant
Being Used
(Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differential) . Replace

Axle
Noisy on
Pull
Pinion
and Bevel
Gear
Improperly Adjusted Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Rough....................... Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Loose Adjust

Axle
Noisy on Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . Adjust

Improper
Tooth Contact.
....................
Adjust
Rough Bearings Replace

Back
Lash
Worn
Differential Pinion
Gear
Washers Adjust
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

Worn
Universal Joints Replace
PROBABLE REMEDY

310

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

o
STEERING SYSTEM
FIG.
0-3—FRONT
WHEEL
TOE-IN
1—
Toe-in
Angle

2—
Vertical
Line
In
the absence of a wheel aligning fixture, toe-in

may
be set by measuring
between
the front wheels
at the
edge
of the rim, at the flange or at the tire
tread
center. When making this adjustment the
wheels must be in a straight ahead position.
It
is highly important that toe-in be checked regu­

larly
and if found to be out of adjustment, correc­ tion should be made immediately.

The
correct toe-in of
these
models is found in the
specifications at the end of this section.
0-8. Toe-in Adjustment
The
toe-in may be adjusted with a line or straight

edge
as the vehicle tread is the same in front and
rear.
To set the adjustment both tie rods must be
adjusted
as outlined below:
Set the tie rod end of the steering bell-crank at
right
angles with the front axle. Place a straight

edge
or line against the left
rear
wheel and left front wheel to determine if the wheel is in a straight

ahead
position. If the front wheel tire
does
not touch the straight
edge
at both the front and
rear,

it
will
be necessary to adjust the left tie rod by loosening the clamps on each end and turning the
rod
until the tire touches the straight
edge.

Check
the right hand side in the same manner, ad­

justing
the tie rod if necessary, making sure that the bell-crank remains at right angles to the axle.

When
it is determined that the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, set the toe-in by short­
ening each tie rod approximately one-half
turn.

0-9.
Front
Wheel
Camber
The
purpose of camber Fig. 0-4, is to more nearly
place the weight of the vehicle over the tire con­ tact on the road to facilitate
ease
of steering.

The
result of excessive camber is irregular wear of
tires on outside shoulders and is usually caused by
bent axle parts.

The
result of negative or reverse camber, if ex­
cessive,
will
be
hard
steering and possibly a wan­

dering
condition.
Tires
will
also wear on inside shoulders. Negative camber is usually caused by
excessive wear or
looseness
of front wheel bearings, axle parts or the result of a sagging axle.

Unequal
camber may cause any or a combination
of the following conditions: unstable steering, wan- 11894-

FIG.
0-4—WHEEL CAMBER

1—Vertical
Line
2—Camber Angle
dering,
kick-back or road shock, shimmy or exces­
sive tire wear. The cause of unequal camber is usu­
ally
a bent steering knuckle or axle end.
Correct
wheel camber is set in the axle at the time
of manufacture and cannot be altered by any ad­
justment. It is important that the camber be the same on both front wheels. Heating of any of
these
parts
to facilitate straightening usually destroys
the heat treatment given them at the factory.
Cold
bending may cause a fracture of the steel and is also
unsafe. Replacement with new parts is recom­ mended rather than any straightening of damaged

parts.

O-10.
Axle
Caster Caster
angle is established in the axle design by
tilting the top of the kingpin toward the
rear
and
the
bottom
of the kingpin forward so that an

imaginary
line through the center of the kingpin
would strike the ground at a point ahead of the point of tire contact.
FIG.
0-5—AXLE
CASTER

1—
Vertical
Line

2—
Caster
Angle
316

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

o

STEERING
SYSTEM 0-28.
SBKF1CE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS PROBABLE REMEDY
Hard Steering
Lack
of Lubrication Lubricate all Connections
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn.
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Joints
Tight. Adjust
Cross
Shaft Improperly Adjusted Adjust Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn...................
Replace

Steering
Loose
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Sockets
Worn
Replace

Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn.
Replace
Steering
Gear
Improperly Adjusted.
......
Adjust
Road Shook; Steering Connecting Rod too Tight;
Axle
Spring
Clip
Loose; Wheel Bearings Loose;
Poor
Shock Absorber

Control,

Turning Radius
Short One
Side
Center
Bolt
in Spring
Sheered
Off,
Axle
Shifted, Steering Arm Bent, Steering Arm not Properly Located

on
Steering
Gear.

0-29.
STEERING
SPECIFICATIONS
F4
ENGINE
V6
ENGINE

STEERING
GEAR:
Make.
Ross
Ross

Type
Cam
and Lever

Cam
and Lever

Ratio..
17.9 to 1
19 to 1
Bearings:
Ball

Cam-Upper
Ball Ball

Cam-Lower
Ball Ball

Lever
Shaft Bushing
Bushing
Steering Column-Upper
Ball
Ball

Lever
Shaft:
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

Clearance
to Bushing
.0005"
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.j
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

End
Play .000'
.000"

Lash
at Cam (Straight Ahead) Slight Drag
Slight Drag
Wheel Diameter.
17M*
(438 mm.]
17M*
[438 mm.]
Wheel
Turns.
2.58
2.58

STEERING
GEOMETRY:
King
Pin Inclination
m°
I
72

Toe-In.
W to W U,2 a 2,3 mm.] W to W [1,2 a 2,3 mm.]

Camber
1°
30'

1°
30'

Caster
3°
3°

Turning
Angle:
27K°

DJ,
CJ Models

27K° 273^°

Turning
Radius with 27^° Angle: 17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-3B,
CJ-5, CJ-5A.
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
Outside Wheel Angle with Inside Wheel at 20°:
20° 20°
322

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326

p

BRAKES
P-25.
SERVICE

SYMPTOMS
Brakes Drag
Brake
Shoes
Improperly Adjusted
Piston Cups Enlarged . . •.
«•
Mineral
Oil or Improper Brake
Fluid
in System. . .

Improper
Pedal Adjustment
Clogged Master Cylinder By-Pass Port...

One
Brake Drags
Brake
Shoe
Adjustment Incorrect
v Brake
Hose
Clogged.
Return
Spring Broken
Wheel Cylinder Piston
01
Cups
Defective.........
Loose or Damaged Wheel Bearings

Brake Grabs
—
Vehicle Pulls
to One
Side
Grease
or Brake
Fluid
on
Lining................
Dirt
Between
Lining
and Drum

Drum
Scored or Rough
Loose Wheel Bearings. .
Axle Spring Clips Loose
Brake
Backing Plate Loose

Brake
Lining
..

Brake
Shoe
Reversed
Tires
Under-Inflated -
Tires
Worn Unequally
Glazed
or Worn
Lining

Restricted Brake
Line

Excessive Pedal Travel
Normal
Lining
Wear

Lining
Worn Out ... .

Leak
in Brake
Line.

Scored Brake Drums
Incorrect
Brake
Lining.

Air
in Hydraulic System

Spongy Brake Pedal
Air
in
Lines.
Brake
Shoe
Adjustment Incorrect
Insufficient Brake
Fluid

Excessive Pedal Pressure
Grease
or Brake
Fluid
in
Lining

Shoes
Improperly Adjusted

Warped
Brake
Shoes
Distorted Brake Drums
Glazed
or Worn
Lining

Restricted Brake
Line
Faulty
Brake Cylinder Insufficient Brake
Fluid.

Squeaky Brakes
Shoes
Warped or Drums Distorted
Lining
Loose.....
Dirt
Imbedded in
Lining

Improper
Adjustment.

Oil
or Grease on
Lining
Glazed
or Worn
Lining.

Drum
Scored
DIAGNOSIS

PROBABLE
REMEDY

Adjust
Flush
all
lines
with Alcohol. Install new cups in wheel and Master Cylinders

Adjust
Master Cylinder Eye Bolt
Clean
Master Cylinder

Adjust
Replace Replace
Replace
Adjust
or Replace
Replace
Lining

Clean
with Wire Brush

Turn
Drum and Replace
Lining

Adjust
Tighten Tighten
Different Kinds on Opposite Wheels

Forward
and
Rear
Shoes
misinstalled
Inflate
Replace or Rotate Replace Linings

Locate
and Repair

Adjust

Replace
Locate
and Repair Replace or Regrind Replace

Fill
Master
Cylinder
— Bleed Lines
Bleed Lines
Adjust

Fill
Master Cylinder
Replace
Lining
Major
Adjustment
Replace
Replace or Regrind Replace Linings * .

Locate
and Repair
Repair
or Replace
Fill
Master Cylinder Replace
Replace
Wire
Brush or Replace

Adjust
Replace Linings Replace Linings

Turn
Drum and Replace Linings 334

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Q
ice, provide maximum safety over all
types
of

terrain,
and furnish the medium on which the
vehicle can be maneuvered with ease. Although
there are other
elements
of tire service, inflation maintenance is the most important and in many
instances the most neglected. The tire pressure should be maintained for safe operation. An under- inflated tire is dangerous as too much flexing can
cause breakage of the casing. Overinflation in time
may
cause a blowout.

Upon
careful inspection of tires, it may be found
that improper wheel alignment, balance, grabbing
brakes,
poor driving habits, fast cornering or other
conditions are the cause of wear. Such conditions
should be corrected.

a.
UNDERINFLATION

Underinflation
distorts the normal contour of the
tire
body and the tire
bulges
or "bellies out" with

an
extreme flexing action.
This
wears the tread at the
edges
more than the center and generates
excessive internal heat, weakening the cords and
resulting
in bruises, broken cords or ply separation.

Underinflation
also leads to rim bruises as in­ sufficient resistance is provided to prevent the tire

from
being jammed against the rim and crushed
or
cut when the tire strikes a
curb,
rock, or rut.

b.
OVERINFLATION

When
a tire is
overinf
lated,
increased tension caused by excessive pressure prevents proper deflection of
the sidewalls.
This
results in wear in the center of the tread and the tire also
loses
its ability to absorb

road
shocks. Under this increased
strain,
cords in the tread area eventually snap under impact, caus­ing a casing break.

c.
MISALIGNMENT
WEAR
Excessive
wheel camber causes the tires to run at an angle to the road when camber is incorrect

it
will
cause excessive wear on one side of the
tire
tread.

Front
wheels should be straight ahead or toe-in slightly. When there is excessive toe-in or
toe-out,

tires
will
revolve with a side motion and scrape
the tread rubber off.
Front
tires
will
show wear on the outside with too great a toe-in condition
and
on the inside with a
toe-out
condition.

d.
BALANCE
Cupping
and bald spotting of tires is associated

with
wear on a vehicle driven mostly at high-way
speeds
without the recommended tire rotation and

with
unbalance conditions.

Q-12.
Tire
Care
Note;
For satisfactory 4-wheel drive operation, a
4-wheel drive vehicle
MUST
be equipped with the same size tires of equal circumference on all
four wheels. The tires must then be inflated to

proper
factory recommended pressures at all times.

Tire
pressure, tire rotation, wheel balance, and wheel alignment are the four vital factors that in­
fluence the
extent
of tire life and the
ease
and safety of vehicle control.
Four
of the most common

tire
troubles are:

a.
Excessive wear around the outer
edges
resulting

from
underinflation.

b.
Excessive wear in the center of the tread re­
sulting from overinflation.

c.
Tire
tread worn on one side indicating wheels
need realigning.
d.
Cuplike
depressions on one side of the tread

indicating
wheels need balancing.

If
the vehicle normally carries a
full
load, two to
four psi. [0,14 a 0,28 kg-m2] can be added to the
recommended air pressures. But, remember that adding air with a light load means a harsher ride,

doesn't
help tires, and wears out shock absorbers. Rotate the tires as shown in Fig. Q-9 for correct
rotation system.

Q-13.
Tire
Removal
and
Installation

To
remove a tire from a drop center rim, first
WEAR
AT SHOULDERS

WEAR
AT CENTER

WEAR
ON ONE
SIDE
FEATHERED
EDGE
BALD
SPOTS

/1TTDN

i

UNDER
INFLATION
OVER
INFLATION
EXCESSIVE
CAMBER

INCORRECT
TOE
WHEEL
UNBALANCED

liF
11

ADJUST
PRESSURE TO
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEN
TIRES ARE
COOL
ADJUST
CAMBER
TO

SPECIFICATIONS
ADJUST
FOR

TOE-IN
DYNAMIC
OR
STATIC

BALANCE
WHEELS

FIG.
Q-8—TIRE
WEAR
PATTERN
339