1953 JEEP DJ engine

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-38—WIRE
COLOR CODE
AND

LOCATIONS
FOR
ALTERNATOR HOOK-UP

1— Regulator (Auxiliary)
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

2— Output
Terminal:
(Red)

3—
Regulator
Terminal
(Cable —
Grey)

4—
Ground
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
5—
Field
Terminal
(Cable — Green-White
Tracer)

6—
Ground
(Optional)
Terminal
(Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
REAR
VIEW

35
AMP.
ALTERNATOR
REAR
VIEW
40
& 55 AMP.
ALTERNATOR
given in Par. H-78, adjusting the fan belt to its
proper tension after the alternator is mounted, as described in Par. C-27. Wires should be connected
as shown in Fig. H-38.

When
the vehicle is equipped with a radio, a .55
mfd. capacitor is required on the alternator. Mount
the capacitor strap to a ground terminal and con­
nect the lead to the output terminal.
H-88.
STARTING
SYSTEM
SERVICE
H-89.
Ignition
Switch

The
ignition switch serves both to energize the
ignition system and
engage
the starter switch.
The
ignition switch has four positions: (1) AC­

CESSORY,
(2)
LOCK,
(3) ON, and (4)
START. The
key must be in the switch to turn it to any position other than
LOCK,
and the key can be
removed only in the
LOCK
position.
In "ACC",
a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal of the switch to
allow accessories such as the radio, blower and/or
windshield wiper to be operated with the ignition, fuel
gauge
and indicator light circuits off.
In "LOCK",
no accessory supplied through the
ignition switch can be operated. Also, the ballast
resistor (V-6
engine
only) circuit to the ignition
coil
(IGN) is grounded.
In
"ON", a connection is made from the battery

terminal
to the accessory terminal so that all
ignition switch supplied accessories can be operated. Also the battery is connected to the ballast resistor
(V-6
engine
only) leading to the ignition coil

(IGN).
From
this same terminal, a lead
into
the
instrument cluster energizes the fuel
gauge
and
indicator lights.
In "START",
all ignition switch supplied acces­
sories are temporarily disconnected. A connection is made to the starter solenoid lead. The charge

and
oil indicator lamps
will
light until the
engine
is started.
H-90.
Ignition
Switch
Removal

a.
Remove the bezel nut and pull back the main
switch body.
Lower
the switch
body
from under the instrument panel so that the wiring harness plug

can
be removed from the prong connection,
b. If the lock cylinder is to be removed, turn the
ignition key to the right and insert a short
piece

of wire or end of a paper clip
into
the lock release

hole
in the switch body. Pressing on the lock
cyl­
inder retainer
will
allow the cylinder to be removed.
H-91.
Ignition
Switch
Installation

Before installing the lock cylinder
into
the main
switch body,
note
the position of the lock cylinder
retainer.

a.
Place the lock cylinder
into
the main switch
body
with the highest part of the lock cylinder
retainer in line with the lock release
hole
in the
main
switch body.
b. Compress the lock cylinder retainer so that the
lock cylinder can be installed all the way
into
the

main
switch
body
or until the retainer can be

seen
through the pin hole.

c.
Install
wiring harness plug
onto
switch
body

prong connection.

d.
Install
this main switch
body
into
the instru­
ment panel opening from the
rear.

e. To make sure that the switch is in its correct position, install the ignition key in the off position.
Then
turn the switch
body
until the key is straight
up and down. Remove the key, install the bezel
nut and secure.
H-92.
PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR
DAUNTLESS
V-6 and

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

The
Prestolite starting motor on the V6
engine
is

similar
in construction (with exception of pinion housings) to the starting motor installed on F4

engines.
The
starter solenoid switch is bolted to the starter
frame.

The
starter is equipped with
sealed-type
absorbent
bronze bearings and no lubricant is required. Service procedures for the Prestolite starter are
given in
Pars.
H-93 to H-107. 202

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
13406

FIG.
H-39—STARTING
CIRCUIT

1—
Ground
Cable
2—
Battery

3—
Positive Cable
4—
Alternator
Wire
5—
Alternator

6— Ignition Switch
Wire

H-93.
Maintenance Procedure

A
periodic inspection should be made of the start­ ing circuit. Since the interval
between
these
checks

will
vary according to the type of service, it should, under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for damage.
Check
for
loose
or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.

H-94.
Wiring

Refer
to Fig. H-39. Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight.
Check
for worn or damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a volt­

age-loss
test
to make sure there is no
loss
of start­ ing motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage
loss
from the battery ter­
minal
to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss
between
the battery ground
post
and the start­ing motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. If the
voltage
loss
is greater
than
these
limits, measure the
voltage
loss
over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing the
voltage
loss
is located and corrected.

H-95.
Commutator
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The com­mutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor is mounted on the
engine
and it
will
be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should 7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid
Wire

9—
Starter

10— Solenoid
11—
Connector
Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96.
Overhaul Procedure

At
periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor re­ moved from the
engine
for cleaning and checking.

H-97.
Removal and Disassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To
remove the starting motor from the engine, dis­
connect the leads and cover the battery lead ter­

minal
with a piece of
hose
or tape to prevent short

circuiting.
Remove the flange
bolts
holding the starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.

Each
part of the starting motor should be removed, cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in
good
condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for
good
ground and lack of open circuits.

H-98.
Brushes

a.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and
make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b.
Check
brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the 203

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

11035

FIG.
H-40—PRESTOLITE STARTING MOTOR—F4 ENGINE 1— End
Plate

2—
Plug

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5— Screw
6—
—Lock
Washer
7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole
Shoe
Set
10—
Frame

11—
Insulating
Washer

12—
Washer

13— Nut 14—
Lock
Washer

15—
Insulating
Bushing

16—
Pole
Shoe
Screw
17— Sleeve Bearing
18—
Drive
End Frame
19—
Intermediate Bearing

20—
Bendix
Drive

21—
Screw

22—
Lock
Washer

23—
Thrust
Washer

24— Key
25—
Armature

26—
Thru
Bolt

27—
Insulator

brush
and
pull
On
a line parallel with the side of
the
brush.
Take
the
reading
just as the spring leaves the
brush.
It is important that the brush spring
tension be kept within the limits specified at the end of this section. If the tension is too low, there

will
be a loss of efficiency from poor brush contact.
Too
great a tension
will
cause excessive brush and
commutator wear. To change the tension, twist the

spring
at the holder with long-nosed pliers,

c.
Worn
brushes should be replaced. Brushes that
are
soldered to the field coil should be unsoldered

and
the
loop
in the field coil lead should be opened.
Insert
the new brush pigtail to its
full
depth in the
loop. The new brush lead should be tightly clinched

in
the terminal and then soldered to make a strong, low-resistance connection.

H-99.
Commutator

Check
the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If
the commutator is rough or worn the armature should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride. Never use
emery cloth.

H-100.
Armature

Visually
inspect the armature for mechanical
defects
before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of
test
probes for testing armature

circuits.
To
test
the armatures for grounds, touch
one point of the
test
probes to a commutator seg­
ment and touch the other point to the core or shaft. Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed
will
burn

the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil con­ nected to the commutator segment is grounded.
To
test
for shorted armature coils, a growler as
shown-in Fig. H-42 is necessary. The armature is placed against the core and a steel strip is held
on the armature. The growler is then energized 204

UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

t
^

12956

FIG.
H-41—PRESTOLITE
STARTING
MOTOR—V-6
ENGINE

1—
End
Plate
2—
Oiling
Pad

3—
Thrust
Washer
4—
Brush
Plate Assembly 5—
Screw

6—
Lock
Washer 7—
Insulating
Washer
8—
Terminal

9—
Field
Coil
and Pole Shoe

10—Frame
11—
Insulating
Washer
12—
Washer

13— Nut
14
—Lockwasher

15—
Insulating
Bushing
16— Pole Shoe Screw
17—
Bearing,
Outer
18—
Drive
End
Frame
Pinion Housing
19— Intermediate Bearing Housing
20—
Lock
Washer 21—
Screw

22— Bendix Drive
23—
Thrust
Washer

24—Pin

25—
Armature

2 6—Commutator
27—
Thru
Bolt
28—
Insulator

29—
Bearing,
Intermediate
and
the armature rotated slowly by hand. If a
shorted coil is present, the steel strip
will
become
magnetized and
will
then vibrate.
H-101-
Field
Coils

Using
test
probes, check the field coils for both
ground and
open
circuits.

a.
To
test
for ground, place one probe on the motor frame or
pole
piece
and touch the other probe to the field coil terminals. If a ground is present, the
lamp
will
light.
b.
To
test
for
open
circuits, place the probes on
the field coil terminal and on an insulated brush.
If
the light,
does
not light, the coil is
open
circuited.
H-102.
Brush
Holder Inspection

Using
test
probes, touch the insulated brush holder with one probe and a convenient ground on the commutator end head with the other probe. If the
lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder.
H-103.
Starting Motor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-40 and H-41.

a.
When assembling absorbent bronze bearing
found in the end plate and drive end frame, always
use the proper arbor
designed
to
give
the proper
bearing fit. Soak the bearings in oil
before
assem­
bling in the bearing bore. Give the bearing
seats

a
light coating of oil.

Note:
At assembly, the outer pinion housing bear­
ing must be flush with the bearing bore on the inside of the housing; the intermediate bearing
must be flush with the bearing bore on the side
toward the armature.

b.
Brushes should be correctly installed and con­
nected as outlined in Par. H-98 in order to be sure
of proper starting motor efficiency.
c. Assemble the armature bearing plate and Bendix

Folo-Thru
Drive to the drive end frame.
Install
the two holding cap screws and lock washers. Tighten them securely. 205

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H
require
a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the
engine
starts the drive
pinion
will
automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)
•
Refer to
Figs.
H-44 and H-45.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or
burn­

ing.
Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage

at the battery terminals and that at the starting 13407

FIG.
H-44—STARTER SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
FIG.
H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 ENGINE
switch terminals. The
voltage
drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should
it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean
full
surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current
model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors.
This
type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.

Should
a solenoid switch
fail
in service it is neces­

sary
to install a new solenoid assembly,
a.
To remove the solenoid switch first remove the nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to the starter
post.
Then
remove nut and lock washer securing battery positive cable to solenoid
post.

Tape
end of battery cable to eliminate the pos- 207

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges

Two
gauges
(fuel and temperature) and two in­ dicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically operated.

The
fuel
gauge
is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.

The
temperature
gauge
is connected by a single

wire
to a resistance-type sending unit mounted on the engine.

The
battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential
between
the generator
and
the battery
.The
battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator
light
goes
out when the generator
begins

to charge the battery.

The
oil pressure indicator is connected by a single

wire
to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When
engine
oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator
will

light. When
engine
speed is increased slightly above idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately 6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm2], the diaphragm switch
will
open the circuit and the indicator light
will
go out.

A
voltage
regulator maintains a constant
voltage
to the
gauges
in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this
voltage
regulator was mounted on the
rear
of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage
regulator is integral with the fuel
gauge.

Should
trouble
develop
in the
gauges,
first check the regulator (fuel
gauge
on current production vehicle). If the
voltage
to the regulator is below 10 volts system low
gauge
readings
will
result.
Voltage in
excess
of 16 volts
will
not affect
gauge

readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. If the
voltage
to the regulator is

within
the above limits, check the electrical con­ nections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. If the readings of all the
gauges
is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).

If
the temperature
gauge
or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against the instrument case.
Check
the jumper bar
between

the temperature
gauge
and heat indicator at the

rear
of the instrument case. On later production vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an in­
sulating
sleeve
to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. If the jumper bar

does
not have this
sleeve,
either install one or

wrap
the bar with plastic electrical tape to
half

an
inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing the jumper bar, be sure the curved
segment
is
closest to the fuel
gauge.

Should
only one of the two
gauges
register incor­
rectly,
check the lead wire from the
gauge
to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next disconnect the
gauge
from the sending unit, and
connect the
gauge
to a new fuel tank sending unit

which
has been grounded to the vehicle.
If
the
gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the
gauge;
if correctly, replace the sending

unit.

Should
a new fuel tank unit not be available for testing, use a 12-volt
test
light in its place. When
the
gauge
is operating correctly, the pointer
will

move
approximately three-quarters across the
dial.

On
some
vehicles, the temperature
gauge
may
register on or
close
to the H (hot)
mark
when
coolant temperature is
190°F.
to
200°F.
[88°C.
a

93°C.].
In such cases, a 25-ohm,
1-watt
resistor
may be installed on the temperature
gauge
which

will
place the pointer just beyond the center
mark
at a coolant temperature of
190°F.
to
200°F.
Install

the resistor
between
the two terminals on the back
of the
gauge.
Insulate the
exposed
leads of the resistor with electrical tape.

If
the oil pressure indicator
does
not indicate cor­

rectly,
first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible

defects
are corrected, the indicator light
does
not go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.

H-12S.
LIGHTING SYSTEM The
wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The
wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when check­
ing individual circuits.

The
lighting circuits of all models are protected by

an
overload circuit breaker mounted on the back of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.

The
upper and lower headlight beams are con­
trolled by a
foot
switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126.
Main
Light
Switch

This
switch is a dual functioning unit having two

push-pull
positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and
tail
lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail
lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.

The
switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut may then be removed and the switch removed
through the
rear
of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN
LIGHT
SWITCH
(EARLY)

1—
Battery
4—Parking Lights
2—
Rear
Lights 5—Auxiliary

3—
Head
Lights
212