1953 JEEP DJ water pump

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
insulator
mountings attached to the frame side

rail
brackets. The
rear
of the engine-transmission
assembly is supported by a rubber insulator
mounting under the
rear
of the transmission on
the frame center cross member.
This
cross member
is bolted to the frame side
rails
so that it can be
dropped when removing the transmission or engine-

transmission
assembly. The rubber insulators allow
free side and vertical oscillation to effectively

neutralize
engine
vibration at the source.

The
rubber
insulator mountings should be inspected
for separation and deterioration by jacking the
power plant away from the frame, near the sup­
ports. Vibration cannot be effectively absorbed by
separated or worn insulators. They should be re­ placed if faulty.

D-4.
Engine
Ground
Strap

To
be sure of an
effective
ground for the electrical

circuits,
a ground strap bridges the right front

engine
support to the chassis. The connections of this strap must be kept clean and tight for proper
operation of the electrical system.

D-5. ENGINE REMOVAL

Should
the
engine
require overhauling, it is neces­

sary
to remove it from the vehicle. The following procedure covers removal of the
engine
only.

The
engine, transmission and transfer case may be
removed as a unit by removing (in addition to the following procedure) the radiator guard and the
access plates in the floor pan.

a.
Drain
the cooling system by opening the
drain
cocks at the
bottom
of the radiator and lower right
side of the cylinder block.

b.
Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal
to avoid the possibility of short
circuit.

c. Remove the air cleaner horn from the carburetor
and
disconnect the breather
hose
at the oil filler
pipe.

d.
Disconnect the carburetor choke and throttle controls by loosening the clamp
bolts
and set
screws.

e. Disconnect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at the fuel pump by unscrewing the connecting nut.
f- Plug the fuel line to prevent fuel leakage.
g. Remove the radiator and radiator grille support

rods.

h. Remove the upper and lower radiator
hoses
by
loosening the
hose
clamps and slipping the clamps
back
on the
hose.
If so equipped, remove the heater

hoses
(one to the water pump, one to the
rear
of
the cylinder head) in the same manner.

i.
Remove the four
bolts
from the fan hub and re­

move
the fan hub and fan blades.

j.
Remove the four radiator attaching screws. Re­
move
the radiator and shroud as one unit, k. Remove the starting motor cables. Remove the

starting
motor.

I.
Disconnect the wires from the alternator or
generator. Disconnect the ignition
primary
wire
at the ignition coil.
NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL, REMOVE THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTION
MANI­
FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)

VALVE.
SEE SECTION
Fl
FOR PROCEDURE.
m.
Disconnect the oil pressure and temperature
sending unit wires at the units.

n.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold by removing the stud nuts.

o.
Disconnect the
spark
plug cables at the plugs

and
remove the cable bracket from the rocker arm cover stud.

p.
Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the
attaching stud nuts.

q.
Attach a lifting bracket to the
engine
using
existing head bolt locations. Be sure the
bolts
selected
will
hold the
engine
with the weight

balanced.
Attach lifting bracket to a boom hoist,

or
other lifting device, and take up all slack,
r.
Remove the two nuts and
bolts
from each front

engine
support. Disconnect the
engine
ground strap.
Remove the
engine
supports.
Lower
the
engine
slightly to permit access to the two top
bolts
on
the flywheel housing.
s. Remove the
bolts
which attach the flywheel
housing to the engine.

t.
Pull
the
engine
forward, or
roll
the vehicle back­

wards,
until the clutch clears the flywheel housing.

Lift
the
engine
from the vehicle.

D-6. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also ap­
plicable
separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,

provided
that wherever necessary the part of the

engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by
removal
of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed

with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly

and
the oil has been drained.
In
addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the
engine
out of the vehicle,

special
instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is
done
with the
engine
installed.

During
disassembly operations, the
engine
should
be mounted in a suitable
engine
repair
stand. Where

practicable,
modify or adapt an existing repair

stand
as necessary to accommodate the engine. If

an
engine
repair stand is not used, take care to

perform
disassembly operations in a manner that

will
protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.

NOTE:
If the
engine
is being disassembled because
of possible valve failure, check the valve tappet
clearance
before disassembly. Improper valve

clearance
could be the possible cause of valve

failure,
indicating a need for more frequent valve
checks and adjustments. 41

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-7.
Remove Water Pump
Remove the
bolts
and lockwashers that attach the
water pump to the cylinder block. Remove the water pump.

D-8.
Remove
Exhaust
Manifold
Remove the five nuts from the manifold studs.

Pull
the manifold off the mounting studs. Remove the center and two end gaskets from the cylinder
block. See Section Fl for exhaust emission con­ trolled engines.

D-9.
Remove Oil
Filler
Tube

Loop
a piece of wire several times around the tube
below the top and make a
loop
through which a
pry
bar may be used to pry over the top of the

engine
water
outlet
fitting.
Pull
on the tube, tapping it just above where it enters the crankcase.

D-10.
Remove Water Outlet Fitting
Remove the nuts and lockwashers that attach the
water
outlet
fitting to the cylinder head.
Lift
the
outlet
fitting from the cylinder head.

D-11.
Remove Thermostat

With
the water
outlet
fitting removed, the thermo­
stat can be lifted from the water
outlet
elbow on the cylinder head.

D-12.
Remove
Crankshaft
Pulley
Remove the crankshaft nut.
Install
a puller and
pull

the pulley from the crankshaft.

D-13.
Remove Distributor

a.
Remove
spark
plug cables from the distributor
cap,
noting the order in which they are assembled to ensure correct reassembly. No. 1
spark
plug

terminal
is in the 5 o'clock position. Starting with this tower the cables are installed in a counter­clockwise direction in
1-3-4-2
firing order.

b.
Remove the
primary
lead from the terminal

post
at the side of the distributor.
c. Remove the screw holding the distributor to the crankcase and lift the assembly from the engine.
D-14. Remove Oil Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. If only the oil pump is being removed

with
the
engine
in the vehicle, set No. 1 piston at
TDC
for reference for reinstalling the oil pump
without greatly disturbing the ignition timing.
First
remove the distributor cover and
note
the
position of the distributor rotor.
If
the distributor is already removed, sight through
the distributor
hole
before removing the oil pump.
The
slot should be near vertical. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers attaching the oil pump
to the cylinder block.
Carefully
slide the oil pump

and
its drive shaft out of the cylinder block.

D-1S.
Remove
Crankcase
Ventilation Valve

To
remove the crankcase ventilation valve from
the elbow fitting screwed into the inlet manifold of the cylinder head, first remove the
hose
and
clamp from the valve (Fig. D-32), then using a
wrench
carefully unscrew the valve from the
elbow.

D-l6.
Remove Rooker Arm Assemblies

The
rocker arm cover was previously removed as

a
step
of the
engine
removal (Par. D-5).
Remove the nuts from the rocker arm shaft support
studs, and lift the rocker arm assembly off the studs.
Lift
the intake valve push rods out of the
cylinder
block.

D-17.
Remove
Cylinder
Head

a.
Removal.
Disconnect the oil line from the flared tube con­
nector and remove the rocker arm attaching stud nuts, and rocker arm shaft assembly if not pre­
viously removed. Two end head
bolts
cannot be removed until the rocker arm shaft is removed.
Remove the cylinder head bolts.
There
is one
cylinder
head bolt located below the carburetor
mounting, inside the intake manifold, that must
not be overlooked.

Carefully
lift the cylinder head off the block.
Remove the valve push rods and the valve lifters.
FIG.
D-3—REMOVING
RIDGE
WITH
REAMER

Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket,
b. Disassembly.
Disassemble the parts of the cylinder head as
follows:
With
a spring compressor tool remove the
two-piece
locks recessed in the valve spring re­

tainers.
Pull
the
O-ring,
valve spring, and valve out
of the cylinder head. Identify the valves for return to the same
guides
from which they are removed.
42

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-6—F4-134
ENGINE

1— Rocker Arm Shaft and Plug
2— Rocker Shaft
Lock
Screw
3—
Cylinder
Head Bolt
4— Nut
5—
Left
Rocker Arm
6— Rocker Shaft Support Stud
7— Nut
8— Rocker Arm Shaft Spring
9— Right Rocker Arm
10— Nut
11— Rocker Arm Cover Stud
12—
Plain
Washer
13— Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket
14— Intake Valve Tappet Adjusting Screw
15— Intake Valve Spring Retainer

Lock

16—
Oil
Seal
17— Intake Valve Spring Retainer
18— Intake Valve Spring
19—
Flared
Tube Connector
20— Pipe Plug H'

21—
Pipe Plug W
22—
Cylinder
Head
23— Intake Valve Push Rod
24— Intake Valve Guide
25— Intake Valve 26— Piston
27— Connecting Rod
28— Connecting Rod Cap Bolt
29— Connecting Rod Bearing Set
30—
Exhaust
Valve

31—
Exhaust
Valve Guide 32—
Cylinder
Block
33—
Cylinder
Block
Drain
Lock

34— Tappet Adjusting Screw
35—
Exhaust
Valve Tappet
36—
Crankshaft
Rear
Bearing Seal
37—
Crankshaft
Bearing Dowel
38—
Front
Bearing Set
39— Center Bearing Set
40—
Rear
Bearing Set
41—Bolt 42— Dowel
43—
Crankshaft

44—
Rear
Bearing Cap Packing
45—
Rear
Main Bearing Cap
4 6—Lockwasher
47— Bolt
48—
Lock
Nut
49— Connecting Rod Cap Nut
50— Center Main Bearing Cap
51—
Front
Main Bearing Cap
52— Screw and Lockwasher 53— Screw and Lockwasher
54—
Oil
Pump
55— Gasket
56—
Crankshaft
Shim
57—
Crankshaft
Thrust Washer
58— Gasket
59— Stud
60—
Exhaust
Valve Spring Cover 61— Gasket
62— Valve Spring Retainer Lower

Lock

63— Roto-Cap 64—
Exhaust
Valve Spring
65— Camshaft Front Bushing
66—
Timing
Gear
Oil Jet
67— Camshaft
68— Camshaft Thrust Plate
69— Spacer 70— Bolt and Lockwasher
71— Thermostat
72— Gasket 73— Water Outlet Fitting
74— Screw and Lockwasher

10675

Inspect
tapped
openings.
Repair any
damaged

threads. Replace any broken
studs.

b.
Check the cylinder
bores
for
out-of-round
and
taper to
determine
if the
bores
require
honing
or reboring. For detail information refer to Par. D-35.
c. If
there
is any reason to
believe
that
any of the main bearing cap
dowels
have
been
bent
during
bearing cap removal, install new
ones.
The
dowels
must
fit
tightly
to ensure cap
alignment
and as
they

are hardened
they
may be difficult to grip and re­

move.
To simplify the operation,
file
a
notch
on
each
side
of the
dowel
to
accommodate
a pair of
diagonal cutters. Using a
piece
of bar
stock
under the
diagonals
for
leverage,
work the
dowel
out. Be­

fore
installing a new
dowel
in the cylinder block, make sure the
dowel
hole
is clean. Start the
dowel
46

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad­

justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.

D-76.
Inspection and
Repair

Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the

rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft

brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm

bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores

or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across

a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a

proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged

or
deformed.

Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary

clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket

if
either side is worn or scored.

D-77.
Reassembly

a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes

in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.

b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.

c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the

adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling

away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.

d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.

D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following

paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro­
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder

block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol­
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the

engine
and its parts against damage.

Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and

water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in­
structions on container for proper application pro­
cedure.

D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug

Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound

and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear

end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening

in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the

crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.

D-80.
Install
Tappets

Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the

rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake

and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.

Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block

clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo­ date the next oversize tappet which is available

in
.004" oversize.

D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate

Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,

so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear­
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the cam­shaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug

installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam­
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the

spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62