1953 JEEP DJ change time

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
satisfactory bearing replacement cannot be made

and
it
will
be necessary to regrind the crankshaft.

Install
the bearing lower
half
and the connecting

rod
cap and draw the cap bolt nuts down equally
and
only slightly tight. Move the connecting rod
endwise, one way or the other, on the crankshaft to be sure the bearing is not tight.
Pull
the nuts tighter, first one then the other, a little at a time,

and
keep trying the fit of the rod on the crankshaft by hand until the recommended torque of 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and have been
properly
lubricated with light
engine
oil before in­

stallation,
the connecting rod should be easy to
slide back and forth parallel to the
crankpin.
If
the connecting rod is tight on the crankshaft, a

larger
bearing is required. If there is no binding

or
tightness, it is
still
necessary to check clearance
to guard against too
loose
a fit. The use of "Plasti­

gage"
or shim stock of the proper size to measure .001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for

checking
connecting rod bearing clearances.
This

is the same material recommended for checking
crankshaft
main bearings and the method of check­
ing is
similar.
Refer to
Par.
D-45 or D-46. Connect­
ing rod bearings are fitted to the same clearance as the main bearings but the torque specified for con­
necting rod cap
bolts
is different.

D-50.
Connecting
Rod
Side Play

Check
the connecting rod side play with a feeler
gauge
as shown in Fig. D-l8. The side clearance is .004" to .010"
[0,101
a
0,254
mm.].

D-51.
Camshaft and Bearings

The
camshaft is supported at four points in the

cylinder
block. The front is supported in a re­ placeable, steel-shell, babbit-lined bearing. The

bearing
is pressed into place The other three bear-
FIG.
D-18—CONNECTING
ROD
SIDE
PLAY
ing surfaces are precision machined in the cylinder
block. The camshaft bearings are pressure
lubri­

cated through drilled passages in the crankcase.

End
thrust of the camshaft is taken by a thrust plate bolted to the crankcase. The camshaft is

driven
by a silent helical-cut
tooth
timing gear at
the front of the engine. A worm gear, integral with
the camshaft, drives the oil pump and distributor.

The
fuel pump is actuated by an eccentric forged

onto
the camshaft.

Clean
the camshaft thoroughly in cleaning solvent.
Inspect
all camshaft bearing surfaces to determine

if
they are scored or rough. The cam faces must be
perfectly smooth throughout their contact face

and
must not be scored or worn.

D-52.
Camshaft
Front Bearing Replacement

Use
a suitable driver to remove the camshaft front
bearing
from the cylinder block. To install a new
bearing,
align the oil
hole
in the bearing with the
bored oil
hole
in the cylinder block and drive the

bearing
in until the front end of the bearing is

flush
with the front surface of the cylinder block.

Make
sure the oil
hole
is open and clear. It is not
necessary to line-ream the bearing after installation because bearings for replacement are precision
reamed
to the finished size. Do not stake the

bearing.

D-53-
Camshaft End Play

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft gear and the thrust plate and is established by the

spacer
thickness. The standard clearance is .004"
to .007"
[0,101
a 0,178 mm.] and can be measured by a
dial
indicator. As a general rule this clearance

will
change but little through wear or when a new gear is installed. To predetermine the correct end
float with the gear, spacer, and thrust plate re­
moved, measure the thickness of both the thrust
plate and spacer with a micrometer. The thickness
of the spacer should be approximately .006" [0,152 mm.] greater than that of the thrust plate.

When
this is correct and the parts are assembled

and
drawn tightly
together
by the gear retaining

screw,
the end play should
come
within standard
limits.

D-54.
Timing Gears
and
Cover

The
timing gears are mounted at the front of the
engine. Camshaft drive is through helical-cut
timing gears; a steel gear on the crankshaft and a
pressed fiber gear on the camshaft. The gears are keyed to their respective shafts. The camshaft

driven
gear is secured on the front end of the
camshaft by means of a capscrew and a plain

washer.
The crankshaft gear is secured on the
front end of the crankshaft by a nut threaded
onto
the front end of the crankshaft holding the
crank­

shaft pulley, crankshaft oil slinger, and the
crank­

shaft drive gear spacer. The timing gears are

lubricated
through a jet threaded into the
crank­
case directly above the gear contact and oil supplied
through a drilled passage from the front main

bearing.
The timing gears are enclosed by the
sealed timing cover. The oil seal in the cover bears 53

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Dl-38.
Crankshaft
Cleaning

Clean
the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent.
Clean
drilled oil
passages
in its

journals
with a small rifle brush to remove all
sludge
or gum deposits; dry
passages
with com­
pressed air.

Dl-39.
Crankshaft
Inspection
and
Repair

If
the crankshaft has not
been
removed from the

cylinder
block for inspection, disconnect two con­ necting rods at a time from crankshaft. Inspect
the bearings and crankpin journals. While turning
crankshaft,
it is necessary to temporarily reconnect
the rods to crankshaft to avoid possibility of dam­ aging the journals through contact with uncon­
nected rods.
Inspect the crankpins visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Use an
outside
micrometer to check crankpins for out-of-round.
Standard
crankpin
diameter is
2.0000"
[5,080
cm.].

If
crankpins are more than .0015"
[0,0381
mm.]
out-of-round, new bearings cannot be
expected
to
have satisfactory life.
If
the crankshaft has
been
removed from the
cyl­

inder
block for inspection support it on V-blocks
at its main bearing journals 1 and 4. Inspect the

main
bearing journals visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Standard main bear­
ing
journal
diameter is 2.4995"
[6,349
cm.].
Total

indicator readings at each
journal
should not ex­
ceed .003"
[0,076
mm.].

Check
run out at all four journals and
note
high
spot
(maximum eccentricity) of each
journal.
High

spot
of each
journal
should
come
at the same
angular
location. If high
spots
do not coincide,

crankshaft
is misaligned and unsatisfactory for
service.

If
crankpin or main bearing journals are scored,
ridged, or out-of-round, the crankshaft must be replaced or reground to a standard undersize bear­
ing diameter to ensure satisfactory life of bearings. Slight roughness can be removed with a fine grit
polishing cloth thoroughly
wetted
with
engine
oil.
Burrs
can
be
honed with a fine oil
stone,
so long as
bearing clearances
will
remain within specified
limits.

Dl-40.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

A
crankshaft bearing consists of two halves which
are
neither alike nor interchangeable. One half is

carried
in the corresponding main bearing cap; the
other half is located
between
the crankshaft and

cylinder
block. The upper (cylinder block) half
of the bearing is grooved to supply oil to the con­ necting rod bearings, while the lower (bearing cap)

half
of the bearing is not grooved. The two bearing
halves must not be interchanged. All crankshaft
bearings
except
the thrust bearing and the
rear

main
bearing are identical. The thrust bearing (No. 2) is longer and it is flanged to take
crank­

shaft end thrust. When the bearing halves are
placed in cylinder block and bearing cap, the
ends
extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces. When
cap
bolts
are tightened, the halves are clamped
tightly in place to ensure positive seating and to
prevent turning. The
ends
of bearing halves must never be filed flush with parting surface of
crank­

case or bearing cap.

Crankshaft
bearings are the precision type which
do not require reaming to size or other fitting.
Shims
are not provided for adjustment since worn
bearings are readily replaced with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for service replacement are

furnished
in standard size and undersizes. Under no circumstances should crankshaft bearing caps
be filed to adjust for wear in old bearings.

Dl-41.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearing
Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
main bearing surfaces. Inspect the bearings

visually
for excessive or uneven wear, scoring, and

flaking.
Visibly worn or damaged bearings must
be replaced. It is necessary to check
radial
clear­ ance of each new or used crankshaft main bearing
before installation.
This
can be
done
by either of two methods, which are described in
Pars.
Dl-42

and
Dl-43.

a.
The desired
radial
clearance of a new bearing
is .0005" to .0021"
[0,0127
a
0,0534
mm.].
b. Replacement bearings are furnished in standard
size, and in several undersizes, including undersizes
for reground journals. If a new bearing is to be installed, try a standard size; then try each under­
size in turn until one is found that
meets
the
specified clearance limits.

Note:
Each
undersize bearing half has a number
stamped on its outer surface to indicate amount of undersize. Refer to Fig. Dl-12. 14288

FIG.
Dl-12—LOCATION
OF
UNDERSIZE
MARK
ON
BEARING
SHELL

1—
Tang

2—
Undersize
Mark
Dl-42.
Main
Bearing
Fitting,
Plastigage

Bearing
clearance can be checked by use of Plasti­
gage,
Type PG-1 (green) which has a range of
.001" to .003" [0,025 a
0,076
mm.]. Refer to

Fig.
Dl-13.

a.
Place a piece of Plastigage lengthwise along the
bottom
center of the lower bearing half, then 86

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

Di

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

12721

FIG.
D1-22—REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION
OF
VALVE
LIFTER
RETAINER
RING

A—Removal'
1—
Push
Rod

2—
Tool
3-

B-
-Retainer

-Installation

T)
0
© ©
6
FIG.
D1-23—HYDRAULIC
VALVE
LIFTER

1—
Body

2—
Spring

3—
Ball
Retainer

4—
Ball
5— -Plunger
6—
Push
Rod
Seat
7—
-Retainer

rinse
and
install
the
check valve
ball,
check valve

spring,
check valve retainer, plunger spring,
and
valve lifter body over
the
plunger. Rinse push
rod

seat and retainer ring in kerosene. Place
these
parts

in
end of
body and depress with
a
suitable tool
to

cause retainer
to
engage
groove
in
valve lifter body.

o.
Wrap
the
valve lifter
in
clean paper,
or
other­
wise protect
it
from
dirt,
during cleaning
and in­

spection
of the
other valve lifters.

Dl-57.
Hydraulic Valve
Lifter
Leak-down
Test

Check
leak-down rate
of
hydraulic valve lifters

with
valve lifter pliers W-324
or
equivalent.
Im­
merse
the
valve lifter
in
kerosene
and
grasp
the

valve lifter with
the
pliers,
as
shown
in
Fig. Dl-24, so that
the
push rod
of the
pliers
engages
the
push

rod
socket
of
the lifter. Squeeze and hold
the
pliers,

checking
the
time required
for
leak-down.
Leak-

down should take
between
12 and 60
seconds.
Check
a
doubtful valve lifter three
or
four times.

Replace
valve lifters that
do not
have
a
proper
leakdown rate.
FIG.
Dl-24—VALVE
LIFTER
TEST

Dl-58.
Rocker
Arm
Disassembly

This
engine
has two
rocker arm assemblies, each of which
is
associated with
one of its two
cylinder

banks.
Each
rocker arm assembly
is
disassembled as follows:

a.
Remove cotter pin, flat washer, spring retaining

ring,
and one
rocker
arm
from each
end of the

rocker
arm shaft.

b.
Withdraw
two
bolts
from outer shaft supports

and
rocker arm shaft. Remove outer supports,
two
rocker
arms, two spacer springs, and
two
remaining

rocker
arms from shaft. Withdraw bolt from center
support
and
remove support from shaft.

Dl-59.
Rocker
Arm Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
With
a
wire brush and suitable cleaning solvent,

clean
any
sludge
or
dirt
from hollow core
and

oil
ports
of the
rocker
arm
shaft, from bores
of
shaft supports, and from
oil
passage
in
each rocker

arm.
Dry
these
parts with compressed
air.
Clean
all
other parts with cleaning solvent and dry with
compressed
air.

b.
Inspect
the
rocker
arm
shaft
for
scoring
or

abrasion
at the
rocker arm bearing areas and, with

a
surface plate, check
for
bent
or
distorted condi­
tion. Inspect
the
rocker arms
for
excessive wear,

scoring,
or
abrasion
of
bearing surfaces.
Check
for

loose
or
damaged valve stem
or
push
rod
inserts.
Inspect
the
spacer springs
for
breaks, deformity,

and
loss
of
tension. Replace
any
visibly worn
or

damaged parts. Inspect
the
mounting
bolts
for

damage.
Repair
damaged threads
or
replace
as
necessary.

c.
Measure rocker
arm
shaft diameter
and
bore
diameters
of
rocker arms.
This
clearance should be .0017"
to
.0032"
[0,0432
a
0,0812
mm.]. If
necessary, replace worn rocker arms, shaft,
or
both.

Dl-60.
Rocker
Arm Assembly

Note:
All three shaft supports
of
each rocker arm
assembly are identical and interchangeable. In
the

description
to
follow, "center"
and
"outer" refer only
to
their position
on the
shaft.

Caution:
There
are two
different
types
of
rocker

arms,
three
of
each type,
in
each rocker arm shaft
assembly. They
are not
interchangeable. One face
of each rocker arm
has a
notch; when installed
on

the shaft, this notched face must touch
a
shaft support.
92

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all en­
gine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline

and
water leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers, water pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and
heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and
oil
line connections, stud bolts, spark plug threads,

and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufac­
turer's
instructions on container for proper appli­
cation procedure.

Dl-72.
Cylinder
Block
and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals

Braided
fabric seals are pressed into
grooves
of
cylinder
block and
rear
main bearing cap, to
rear

of the oil collecting groove, to seal against oil leak­ age at the crankshaft. Refer to Fig. Dl-32.

FIG.
Dl-32—INSTALLING
CRANKSHAFT REAR
OIL
SEAL

1—Neoprene
Seal
2—Fabric
Seal

A
neoprene composition (stick) seal is installed in
grooves
in the sides of the
rear
main bearing cap
to seal against leakage in the joints
between
the
cap and cylinder block. The neoprene composition
expands in the presence of oil and heat.
This
seal
is undersize when newly installed. Refer to Fig.

Dl-32.

a.
The braided fabric seal can be installed in the

cylinder
block only when the crankshaft is re­ moved; however, the seal in the cap can be replaced
whenever the cap is removed. Remove oil seal and place new seal in groove, with both ends projecting
above parting surface of cap. Force seal into
groove

by rubbing down with hammer handle or smooth
stick
until seal projects above the
groove
not more

than
[1,59 mm.]. Cut ends off flush with
sur­

face of cap, using sharp knife or razor blade.
Lubricate
the seal with heavy
engine
oil just before
installation.

Caution:
The
engine
must be operated at slow
speed when first started after new braided seal
has been installed.
b. The neoprene composition seal is slightly longer

than
the
grooves
in the bearing cap. The seal must
not be cut to length. The seals are installed after the bearing cap is installed in the block and torqued
firmly
in place. Dip the neoprene seals in kerosene
approximately IV2 minutes, then install seals into
bearing cap grooves. The protruding ends of the seals are, again, squirted with kerosene, wiped off,

and
peaned over with a hammer to be sure of a
seal
at the upper parting line
between
the cap and

cylinder
block.

Dl-73.
Main
Bearing and Crankshaft
Installation

Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.

This
procedure assumes that crankshaft main bear­
ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new crankshaft main bearings of appropriate size have been selected. If necessary, check or select
main
bearings as described in Par. Dl-41 and
Pars.

Dl-42 and Dl-43.

a.
Install
four upper main bearing halves in
seats

of cylinder block so that prong of each bearing half
fits into corresponding notch of seat. Flanged thrust
bearing must be installed in the second seat from
front of engine.
Install
a new upper crankshaft
rear
oil seal in the cylinder block as described in

Par.
Dl-72.

Caution:
Upper main bearing halves have an oil groove, while lower halves are plain. They must
not be interchanged.
b. Apply
engine
oil to upper bearing surfaces.

Install
the crankshaft so that its four journals rest

in
the upper bearing halves.
c. Seat all four lower main bearing halves in cor­
responding bearing caps.
Install
a new lower
crank­

shaft
rear
oil seal and cylinder block
rear
oil seal
described in
Par.
Dl-72, a and b.
Lubricate
all lower

main
bearing surfaces with
engine
oil. Position bear­ ing caps to cylinder block and crankcase journals.

Install
two cap bolts,
loosely,
at each cap.

d.
It is necessary to align thrust surfaces of the
second main bearing whenever it has been removed

from
the engine. To do this, pry the crankshaft

back
and forth several times, throughout its entire end travel, with cap
bolts
of second main bearing
only finger tight.
e. Tighten alternate cap
bolts
of each main bearing

cap,
a little at a time, until they have been tight­ ened to 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.
D1-74. Crankshaft End Play Check

To
measure crankshaft end play, mount a dial
indicator
on the cylinder block and index its plung­

er
to either a front or
rear
face of one crankshaft
counterweight. Pry the crankshaft to one limit
of its end travel and adjust the dial indicator to
zero. Pry the crankshaft to its
opposite
end travel

limit
and
note
end play as indicated by the dial

indicator.
Crankshaft end play tolerances are .004"
to .008" [0,102 a
0,204
mm.]. If end play is too great, it can be corrected only by replacement of
the second main (thrust) bearing.

Dl-75.
Piston and Connecting Rod
Installation

This
procedure assumes that connecting rod bear­ ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new connecting rod bearings of appropriate 96

E

FUEL
SYSTEM

9
©

FIG.
E-4—FUEL
EVAPORATIVE
EMISSION
CONTROL
SYSTEM-
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
A—Side
View
1—
Charcoal
Canister

2—
P.C.V.
Crankcase
Valve

3—
Purge
Line

4—
Fuel
Tank
5—
Fuel
Filler
Hose
B—Plan
View
6—
Non-Vented
Gas Cap 7—
Vapor
Separator or Expansion
Tank

g—Fuei
Gauge

9—Fuel
Line-to-Fuel
Pump

10—Fuei
Return
Line

during
normal temperature vehicle operation, thus
minimizing
driveability problems. An additional
feature of this valve is a built-in vacuum relief

which
allows inward air flow under negative fuel

tank
pressure conditions. The valve housing con­
tains the normal tank vent and purge connections.

E-5.
Fuel Tank

The
fuel tank is external expansion type.
Fuel

tank
venting is accomplished by several vapor
lines which lead to the vapor separator or expan­
sion tank. The vapor lines which lead from the
fuel tank are located at the front and
rear
so that
during
any inclination of the vehicle, at least one
line
will
be open to vent at all times.
E-6.
Vapor Separator
or
Expansion Tank

The
vapor separator is chambered so that the
rear
fuel tank vent lines lead into a separate chamber

with
a fuel shutofl valve.
This
prevents solid fuel
from
flowing from the fuel tank to the vapor can­
ister during uphill operation or parking of the
vehicle. A single vapor vent line leads from the fuel
vapor separator to the vapor collection canister
where fuel vapors are stored until they can be drawn into the
engine
and burned.

The
expansion tank allows expansion of the fuel as

required
during temperature changes and simul­ taneously
becomes
a liquid trap that only allows
vapors to pass.
E-7.
Sealed
Gas Cap

The
sealed gas cap is designed to allow no vapors to
discharge into the atmosphere under normal
operation of the system. If the system
becomes
plugged or a failure of the demand valve occurs 112

F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
the throttle
stop
screw to idle the
engine
at 650
to 700 rpm.

F2-17. Carburetor Idle Setting
The
"Lean
Best
Idle"
Method of Idle Setting is as
follows:

a.
Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment

b.
Connect tachometer to engine.

c.
Warm
up
engine
and stabilize temperatures.

d.
Adjust
engine
idle to speed desired, using throt­
tle idle speed adjusting screw.
e.
Turn
idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise)

until
a
loss
of
engine
speed is indicated; then slowly
turn
mixture screws in (clockwise-leaner)
until
maximum speed (rpm) is reached. Continue

turning
in (clockwise) until speed begins to drop;

turn
mixture adjustment back out (counterclock­
wise-richer)
until maximum speed is just regained

at
a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.

F2-18. Distributor
The
ignition distributor used with the
Exhaust
Emission
Control
System is the same as that used
on
engines
without
Exhaust
Emission
Control.
Check
the distributor cam dwell angle and point
condition.
Check
ignition timing and adjust to specifications shown on the last
page
of this section.

F2-19.
Anti-Backfire
Valve

The
anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To
check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the
engine
in neutral, allowing the throttle to close

rapidly.
The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large
hose
which connects the valve to the

pump.
With
a finger placed over the open end of
the
hose
(not the valve), accelerate the
engine
and allow the throttle to close rapidly. The valve is
operating satisfactorily if a momentary air rushing
noise is audible.

F2-20.
Check
Valve

The
check valves in the lines to the air distribution manifolds prevent the reverse flow of exhaust
gases

to the pump in the event the pump should, for

any
reason,
become
inoperative or should exhaust

pressure
ever exceed pump pressure.

To
check this valve for proper operation, remove the air supply
hose
from the pump at the check

valve.
With
the
engine
running, listen for exhaust
leakage at the check valve which is connected to
the distribution manifold.

F2-21.
Air
Pump

Check
for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge
W-283. The belt strand tension should be 60 pounds measured on the
longest
accessible span
between two pulleys. DO NOT PRY ON THE

DIE
CAST
PUMP
HOUSING. To
check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air
outlet
hose
at the pump.
With
the
engine

running,
air discharge should be felt at one of
the pump
outlet
openings. The pump
outlet
air
pressure,
as determined by the relief valve, is preset
and
is not adjustable.

The
air pump
rear
cover assembly, housing the pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pres­
sure
relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are
to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.

F2-22.
Intake Manifold

Intake
manifold leaks must not be overlooked. Air
leakage at the intake manifold may be compen­
sated for by
richer
idle mixture setting, however, this
will
usually cause uneven fuel-air distribution
and
will
always result in
loss
of performance and
exhaust emission control. To check for air leakage
into the intake manifold, apply kerosene or naph­
tha,
on the intake manifold to cylinder head joints

and
observe whether any changes in
engine
rpm

occur.
If an air leak is indicated, check the mani­
fold to cylinder head bolt torque. The correct torque is 25-35 lbs. ft. [3,46 a 4,84 kg-m.]. If the

leak
is
still
evident,
loosen
the manifold assembly

and
torque-tighten the bolts evenly.
Start
from the center and use proper torque values. Replace the
manifold
gasket if the leak
still
exists.
Clean
both
mating surfaces and check for
burrs
or other ir­

regularities.

Always
torque the bolts evenly to the specified
torque value to prevent warpage.

F2-23.
Carburetor
Air
Cleaner
—Oil
Bath

Every
6,000
miles [9,600 km.] disconnect attach­

ing
hoses
and unscrew the wing nut from the top
of the air cleaner and lift it off the carburetor.

Lift
the cover and filter element off the oil sump.

Clean
the inside surface of the sump and
refill
to

indicated
oil level with SAE 40 or 50
engine
oil
above 32 F; SAE 20 below 32 F.
Wash
filter element in kerosene and
drain.
Reassemble the air

cleaner
and install on carburetor.

More
frequent cleaning and replacement are advis­ able when the car is operated in dusty areas or on

unpaved
roads. Accumulated
dirt
restricts air flow,
reducing
fuel economy and performance.

F2-24.
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The
following paragraphs
give
the procedures for removing the major units of the exhaust emission
control
system and the required equipment needed.

F2-2S.
Air
Pump

Loosen
the air pump mounting bracket bolts. Re­ move the air pump air hose(s). Separate the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time of install­
ation,
torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts
to
30-40
lbs.-ft [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.].
Adjust
the
belt strand tension to 60 pounds. 156

G
COOLING SYSTEM and
the outlet
hose
is connected to the water pump
housing.
When
installing a new hose, clean the pipe connec­
tions and apply a thin layer of nonhardening seal­
ing compound. Hose clamps should be properly
located over the connections to provide secure fastening. The pressurized cooling system pressure

can
blow off improperly installed hoses.

G-8.
Cylinder
Block

Any
coolant leaks at the engine block water joints

are
aggravated by pump pressure in the water

jacket
and by pressure developed in the cooling system when the pressure cap is in place.
Small
leaks showing up only as moist
spots
often
cannot
be detected when the engine is hot except by the
appearance of rust, corrosion, and dye stains where
leakage evaporated. Also, expansion and contrac­ tion of the engine block resulting from extreme
temperature changes can aggravate leaks. For
these

reasons, when checking for coolant leaks inspect
the block when it is cold and while the engine is

running.
A
leaking
drain
cock or plug that cannot be stopped

leaking
by tightening should be replaced.
Leaking

core-hole expansion plugs should be replaced.
If
tightening gasketed joints
will
not correct leak­
age, install new gaskets. Use a sealing compound
where recommended.

G-9.
Thermostat
a.
The cooling system of the engine is designed
to provide adequate cooling under most adverse conditions. However, it is necessary to employ
some

device to provide quick warming and to prevent
overcooling during normal operation. Automatic
control
of engine operating temperature is provided
by a water flow control thermostat installed in the
water
outlet of the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The ther­
mostat is a heat-operated valve. It should always
be maintained in working order and the vehicle
should never be driven without one installed as there would then be no control of engine tempera­

ture.
The temperature at which the thermostat
opens
is preset and cannot be altered.

b.
The thermostat on the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
located in a housing on the top front of the cylinder

head.
On the Dauntless V-6 engine it is located
in
the thermostat housing of the air intake manifold.

The
standard engine thermostat for the
Hurricane

F4
and Dauntless V-6 engine has a normal rating
of
190°F.
[87.8°C]
and should begin to open at

a
coolant temperature between
180°F.
[82°C]
to
192°F.
[89°C]
and be fully open at
202°F.
[94°C.].
See Fig. G-7 for method of testing.

When
the thermostat is not operating properly, the engine may
run
too hot or too cold. Overheating

may
damage the thermostat so that its valve
will

not function properly, and a cold engine
will
not achieve
full
efficiency.
Rust
can also interfere with
thermostat operation. To
test
the thermostat, place

it
in water heated approximately
25°F.
[17°C]
above the temperature stamped on the thermostat

valve.
Submerge the bellows completely and agitate
the water thoroughly. The valve should open fully.
Next, place the thermostat in water heated approxi-
FIG.
G-7—THERMOSTAT
TEST

mately 10°F.
[11°C]
below the temperature
stamped on the thermostat valve. Submerge the bellows completely and agitate the water thorough­
ly.
The valve should close completely. If the ther­
mostat fails either of
these
tests, it should be re­ placed with a new one of the same type and rating.

G-10. Temperature
Sending Unit

The
sending unit incorporates a temperature sens­ ing element that when it is surrounded by cold engine coolant, the unit provides the highest resist­
ance in the temperature
gauge
indicator
circuit.
Resultant
low current flow in the circuit causes the

indicator
on the instrument panel to read at the low (C) end of the
gauge.
As engine coolant tem­

perature
increases, the resistance of the unit is
decreased allowing an increased current flow in
the
circuit,
making the instrument panel
gauge

register in proportion to the temperature of the engine coolant.

To
test
the sending unit, first run the engine until

it
has had time enough to warm up.
If
no reading is indicated on the
gauge,
check the
sending unit to
gauge
wire by removing the wire

from
the sending unit and momentarily grounding
the wire. If the
gauge
now indicates, the sending

unit
is faulty. If the
gauge
still
does
not indicate, the wire is defective.
Repair
or replace the wire,

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant temperature sending
unit
is mounted in the right
rear
of the cylinder head (Fig. G-8) and is connected by a single wire
to the dash unit of the instrument cluster. 166